Curry Goes Global: The Geopolitics of Good Taste

Summary

This transcript explores the global journey of curry, starting from British India and its spread to the West and Japan. It delves into the sociological aspects of curry as a cultural artifact, highlighting the diversity of Indian cuisine and its regional variations. The narrative follows curry's transformation into a Western phenomenon, its commercialization, and its re-interpretation in Japan as a modern, Westernized dish. The talk also touches on the convergence of culinary trends by the end of the 20th century, where curry becomes a global food, reflecting the interconnectedness of geopolitics, culture, and taste.

Takeaways

• 🌍 Curry's global journey began in British India and spread to the West and Japan differently, reflecting complex geopolitical histories.
• 📚 The term 'curry' is a British generalization for a variety of Indian-style sauces and stews, originally not used in Indian languages.
• 🍲 Indian cuisine is diverse and regional, with over 22,000 dialects in India potentially correlating to an equally diverse range of culinary traditions.
• 📈 The popularity and prestige of Indian food in Western countries, such as the United States and the United Kingdom, has grown over time, with a notable increase in media coverage.
• 🌆 In New York City, Indian food has become both common and prestigious, though it ranks behind Italian and Chinese food in terms of popularity and number of upscale restaurants.
• 🍛 Curry rice in Japan emerged as part of the Meiji Restoration's modernization efforts, influenced by social Darwinist ideas linking diet and racial strength.
• 🥦 The Japanese navy played a significant role in popularizing curry rice among the Japanese, using it as part of their Westernization and modernization strategy.
• 🌐 Curry's global spread is marked by a convergence in the late 20th and early 21st centuries, with regional variations becoming more widely recognized and appreciated.
• 👨‍🍳 The narrative of curry's global journey includes stories of small entrepreneurs and workers, such as Nepali migrants in Japan's curry house industry.
• 📚 Scholarly works like 'Indian Food: A Historical Companion' and 'The Bloomsbury Handbook of Indian Cuisine' provide in-depth exploration of the historical and cultural aspects of Indian food.
• 🔄 The concept of 'curry' has been both criticized for its overgeneralization of diverse Indian dishes and embraced for its adaptability and representation of cultural exchange.

Q & A

How does the speaker describe the evolution of curry as a global phenomenon?

The speaker describes the evolution of curry as a global phenomenon starting from British India, spreading to the West and Japan in different ways, and eventually leading to a convergence in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. The story involves the transnational journey of curry, its adaptation in various cultures, and the sociopolitical factors influencing its spread.

What is the speaker's perspective on the term 'curry' in relation to Indian cuisine?

The speaker suggests that the term 'curry' is an overgeneralization of the diverse sauces and stews that exist within Indian cuisine. It is a British reference to any Indian style sauce and stew, and its usage varies greatly depending on the region and local dialects within India.

How does the speaker explain the regional diversity of Indian cuisine?

The speaker explains the regional diversity of Indian cuisine by highlighting the variety of dialects and foodsheds, suggesting that each dialect is linked to a unique cuisine. The speaker also mentions the different staple foods and cooking styles found in Eastern and Western India, emphasizing the multiplicity of Indian cuisine.

What is the significance of the 19th century in the global spread of curry?

The 19th century is significant because it marks the period when curry began to spread transnationally from British India to the West. It was during this time that curry powders were made at home and commercial curry powders started to emerge, leading to the popularization of curries in the Anglo-Indian world.

How did curry spread to Japan?

Curry spread to Japan primarily through the Japanese Navy, which adopted Western, specifically British, food practices as part of its modernization efforts during the Meiji Restoration. Curry, along with other Western foods, was seen as a way to improve the physical strength of the Japanese population, aligning with social Darwinist notions of race and diet.

What role did the military and education systems play in the popularization of curry in Japan?

The military and education systems played a significant role in the popularization of curry in Japan. School lunches and military rations introduced a more homogeneous diet and palate to the population, with curry becoming a common dish in these settings. This helped to establish curry as a part of modern, Westernized Japanese cuisine.

How does the speaker describe the current state of curry in Japan?

The speaker describes the current state of curry in Japan as a result of convergence, with Nepali workers now playing a significant role in the production and popularization of curry in Japan. Nepali migrants have opened numerous Indian curry restaurants, and the dish has become a part of the modern Japanese food landscape.

What is the significance of the convergence of curry at the end of the 20th century and the early 21st century?

The convergence of curry at the end of the 20th century and the early 21st century signifies the global spread and adaptation of the dish, transcending its origins and becoming a part of various culinary traditions around the world. This reflects the interconnectedness of global food cultures and the influence of migration and globalization on local cuisines.

How does the speaker's personal experience with curry reflect the broader themes discussed in the script?

The speaker's personal experience with curry, including the variety of sauces and stews in their family's cooking, reflects the broader themes of regional diversity and cultural adaptation within Indian cuisine. It also highlights the complexity and richness of food traditions that can be simplified or generalized in different cultural contexts.

What are some of the sociopolitical factors that influenced the spread of curry?

Some of the sociopolitical factors that influenced the spread of curry include British colonialism, the Meiji Restoration in Japan, social Darwinist notions of race and diet, and the global power dynamics of the 19th and 20th centuries. These factors contributed to the adoption and adaptation of curry in different parts of the world.

What is the speaker's recommendation for those interested in exploring the history and diversity of Indian cuisine?

The speaker recommends several books and resources for those interested in exploring the history and diversity of Indian cuisine. These include K.T. Achaya's 'Indian Food: A Historical Companion', Colleen Taylor Sen's 'The Bloomsbury Handbook of Indian Cuisine', and Lizzie Collingham's 'Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors', among others.