PMU Needle Cartridge Theory Course | Extensive In Depth Knowledge | Cosmedic Supplies
Summary
TLDRIn this informative video, Georgie, a co-founder of Cosmetic Supplies, offers an in-depth tutorial on needle theory for cosmetic tattooing. She explains the impact of needle diameter, tapers, length, and configuration on pigment flow and skin interaction. Georgie advises on needle selection for precision work and shading, emphasizing the importance of working within the skin's 'sweet spot' to avoid complications like pigment migration. She also covers machine settings and needle movement techniques, providing valuable insights for both novice and experienced cosmetic tattoo artists.
Takeaways
- 𧬠The diameter of a needle affects pigment flow; a narrower diameter is better for precision work like hair strokes and outlining.
- π The taper of a needle, which is the length of the needle tip, influences the pixel size in the skin and is crucial for achieving desired color saturation and trauma level.
- π Shorter tapers are better for shading and blending due to larger pixel size and higher color saturation, while longer tapers are ideal for precision work with less trauma.
- βοΈ Needle density, or the number of needles in a cartridge, impacts pigment implantation speed and skin saturation, but requires careful monitoring to prevent over-saturation.
- π© Needle configuration, or how needles are grouped in a cartridge, affects control, accuracy, and pigment delivery, with different configurations suitable for various skin types and procedures.
- πͺ Round liner needles, both tightly packed and singular, offer precision but can penetrate deeper than desired, requiring cautious use by experienced artists.
- π¨ Round shader needles are versatile and safe for most skin types, providing a good balance between pigment delivery and minimizing skin trauma.
- ποΈ Magnum needles are effective for quick color delivery and blending but should be used with caution to avoid over-saturation and pigment migration.
- π Acupuncture needles have a less traumatic entry due to their round tip, making them less painful and causing less bruising and swelling.
- π Needle length is critical; too long can cause pigment spray and irritation, while too short can lead to pigment spillage and tearing.
- π The optimal tattooing depth is between the epidermis and dermis layers, avoiding both superficial and too deep placements that can lead to poor pigment retention and blowouts.
- βοΈ Machine settings such as stroke length and speed significantly affect the impact on the skin and the amount of pigment implanted, requiring synchronization with hand speed for optimal results.
Q & A
What is the main topic of Georgie's video?
-The main topic of Georgie's video is needle theory in cosmetic tattooing, covering aspects such as needle diameter, tapers, needle length, configuration, movement, and depth.
How does the diameter of a needle affect pigment flow?
-The diameter of a needle affects the flow of pigment; a narrower diameter results in a finer and more controlled pigment flow, making it ideal for precision work like hair strokes and outlining.
What is the significance of needle taper in cosmetic tattooing?
-The taper of a needle, which is the length of the needle tip, contributes greatly to the dot or pixel size in the skin. A shorter taper creates a larger pixel size and causes more trauma and color saturation, making it ideal for shading and blending, while a longer taper is better for precision work.
Why are shorter tapered needles more suitable for semi-permanent makeup (SPMU)?
-Shorter tapered needles are more suitable for SPMU because, although they can be more traumatic to the skin, they are less sharp than longer tapered needles, making them more appropriate for sensitive and delicate skin types.
How does the number of needles in a cartridge affect the pigment implantation?
-The more needles present within a cartridge, the more pigment is implanted due to the increased surface area. This can lead to quicker saturation of the skin with fewer passes, but requires careful monitoring to control pigment implantation.
What is the impact of needle configuration on tattooing?
-Needle configuration affects control and accuracy in tattooing. It influences how pigment is delivered and how the needles hit and penetrate the skin, which can vary based on the grouping of needles within the cartridge.
Why should round liner needles be used with caution?
-Round liner needles should be used with caution because they are very sharp and can penetrate deeper into the skin than desired, potentially causing more trauma. They are best used by more experienced artists who can control the depth accurately.
What are the benefits of using round shader needles?
-Round shader needles are beneficial for sensitive skin types as they are less sharp and cause less trauma. They are versatile, safe to use, and can be used for both packing in color and creating a haze of color.
How do magnum needles differ from other needles in terms of pigment delivery?
-Magnum needles, which are two stacked and straight rows of needles, are great for blending and shading, and can deliver a lot of color very quickly. They usually have a long taper and should be used with caution to avoid over-saturation and pigment migration.
What is the 'sweet spot' in cosmetic tattooing and why is it important?
-The 'sweet spot' in cosmetic tattooing is the optimal depth between the epidermis and the dermis where the tattoo should be applied. It is important because working within this layer prevents pigment migration, scarring, and blowouts, ensuring a better final result.
How does the angle of needle insertion affect the tattooing process?
-The angle of needle insertion should be at 90 degrees to the curvature of the area being tattooed. Incorrect angles, either below or above 90 degrees, can cause trauma, scarring, pigment migration, and blowouts.
What is the relationship between machine speed and hand speed in cosmetic tattooing?
-The machine speed and hand speed should be matched to achieve the desired result. A low machine speed should be paired with a slow hand speed for a sheer result, while a high machine speed should be matched with a fast hand speed for dense, unsaturated results like hair strokes.
Outlines
π§ββοΈ Needle Theory Basics
This paragraph introduces Georgie, a co-founder of Cosmetic Supplies, who will guide viewers through the fundamentals of needle theory in cosmetic tattooing. Key points include the definition of needle diameter and its impact on pigment flow, with narrower diameters being better for precision work. The taper, or needle tip length, is also discussed, explaining how it affects pixel size and color saturation in the skin. Shorter tapers are ideal for shading, while longer ones are better for precision. The paragraph also touches on needle configuration, the number of needles in a cartridge, and the importance of selecting the right needle type for semi-permanent makeup, considering skin sensitivity and the desired depth of pigment implantation.
π Needle Configurations and Skin Interaction
This section delves deeper into the specifics of needle configurations, such as round liner, round shader, and magnum needles, and how they affect pigment delivery and skin penetration. It emphasizes the importance of using the right needle for the right skin type to avoid trauma and ensure proper pigment saturation. The paragraph also discusses the use of acupuncture needles for less traumatic procedures and the significance of needle length in achieving the desired depth of pigmentation. It highlights the potential issues of working too deep or too shallow in the skin layers and the importance of working within the 'sweet spot' between the epidermis and dermis for optimal results.
π¨ Depth and Technique in Semi-Permanent Makeup
This paragraph focuses on the technical aspects of performing semi-permanent makeup, including the auditory and tactile cues that indicate the needle is working within the optimal skin layer. It explains the concept of the 'sweet spot' and how to avoid causing a 'blowout' by working too deep. The discussion also includes the correct angle for needle insertion, which is crucial for minimizing trauma and achieving even pigmentation. Common needle movements such as pendulum and whip shading are mentioned, along with the importance of using the correct stroke length and machine speed to control the depth and density of pigment implantation.
βοΈ Machine Settings and Their Impact on Tattooing
The final paragraph discusses the impact of machine settings on the tattooing process, specifically the relationship between machine speed and hand speed. It explains how low machine speeds with slow hand speeds result in less pigment implantation and less trauma, leading to a sheerer result. Conversely, high machine speeds with fast hand speeds are recommended for dense, unsaturated results, such as hair strokes. The paragraph concludes with a reminder to match the correct hand speed with the machine speed to achieve the desired outcome and a call to action for viewers to engage with the channel and ask questions.
Mindmap
Keywords
π‘Needle Theory
π‘Diameter
π‘Taper
π‘Needle Length
π‘Configuration
π‘Pixel Size
π‘Pigment Flow
π‘Semi-Permanent Makeup (SPMU)
π‘Trauma
π‘Pigment Migration
π‘Blowout
Highlights
Introduction to needle theory for cosmetic tattooing by Georgie, co-founder of Cosmetic Supplies.
Explanation of needle diameter and its impact on pigment flow and precision work.
The importance of needle taper and its role in dot size and color saturation in skin.
Advantages of shorter tapered needles for shading and blending despite causing more trauma.
Suitable use of medium and long tapered needles for semi-permanent makeup.
Insight on needle configuration and its effects on pigment implantation and skin trauma.
The significance of the number of needles in a cartridge for pigment saturation and skin passes.
Discussion on round liner needles for precision and control, with a caution for experienced use only.
Benefits of round shader needles for sensitive skin types and their versatility in pigment application.
Magnum needles for quick color delivery and blending, with a warning about potential over-saturation.
Comparison between acupuncture needles and traditional tattoo needles in terms of trauma and pigment delivery.
The U-shaped needle's unique design for less traumatic skin entry and effective color application.
Importance of needle length in achieving proper pigment implantation and avoiding skin irritation.
Understanding the skin's layers and the optimal 'sweet spot' for tattooing between the epidermis and dermis.
Techniques for identifying the 'sweet spot' through auditory and tactile feedback during tattooing.
Consequences of working too deep in the skin, leading to pigment migration and blowouts.
The correct angle for cosmetic tattooing to minimize trauma and ensure proper pigment implantation.
Different needle movements and techniques in cosmetic tattooing, such as pendulum and whip shading.
Clarification on the difference between needle stroke length and needle length, and their impact on tattooing.
The effect of machine speed on needle penetration, pigment implantation, and skin trauma.
Balancing hand speed with machine speed to achieve desired tattoo results and minimize skin damage.
Conclusion and invitation for questions, highlighting the educational value of the video.
Transcripts
[Music]
hi everyone my name is georgie and i'm a
co-founder of cosmetic supplies and
today i'm going to be taking you through
your needle theory we're going to be
discussing everything from diameter to
tapers needle length configuration
movement depth etc i hope it helps and i
hope you enjoy it
the diameter is the width of the needle
at its widest point it's the shaft not
the tip of the needle
the diameter has an effect on the flow
of pigment the narrower the diameter the
finer and more controlled the flow of
pigment will be
thus a needle with a narrower diameter
will be ideal for precision work i.e
hair strokes and outlining work
the density or saturation of colour
increases with a larger diameter size
needle
the taper is the length of the needle
tip
typically the diameter is seen as the
most important feature of a needle but
the taper plays a large part in the
overall result
the taper contributes greatly to the dot
also known as the pixel size in the skin
a shorter taper creates a larger pixel
size as the widest point of the needle
is closer to the tip and therefore
enters the skin at this point
a shorter taper causes more trauma and
more colour saturation
the pigment reaches the skin more
quickly making a shorter tapered needle
more ideal for shading and blending
techniques such as pendular and whip
shading a longer taper creates a smaller
pixel size as the widest point of the
needle is further away from the tip
making the tip of the needle more
pointed and thinner in width
a longer taper causes less trauma and
therefore the colour saturation is less
it takes longer for the pigment to reach
the skin making a longer taper more
ideal for precision work such as hair
strokes and lining work
medium and long tapered needles are best
when performing semi-permanent makeup
so what i'd like you to note that
although a shorter tapered needle so
medium in the case of spmu can
technically be more traumatic to this
skin
they're actually a little bit more
appropriate for more sensitive and
delicate skin types because they don't
tend to be as sharp as longer tapered
needles
the number of needles means how many are
present within the cartridge
the more needles that are present within
the configuration the more pigment that
will be implanted
the amount of pigment embedded
multiplies the more needles that are
present
this means that we can saturate the skin
more quickly with less passes therefore
there is less trauma
although this can be ideal when we are
faced with challenging skin types we
must be aware that the area will
saturate quickly so we need to
constantly assess our results before we
continue working in order to control the
amount of pigment that's implanted
needle configuration means how the
needles are grouped together inside the
cartridge
there are a number of ways needles can
be configured the way the needles are
configured can affect our control and
accuracy it affects the way that pigment
is delivered and how the needles hit and
penetrate the skin
rounds liner needles are either a
configuration of needles that are packed
very tightly together or they are
singular needles
when you work with a configuration that
is so tightly packed together they can
pack in pigment very very quickly
sometimes quicker than what you actually
realize but also they are quite sharp so
they can penetrate deeper than the skin
than what maybe you would like and
although single round liner needles are
excellent they are sort of our safety
needle but also they give you a lot of
control over accuracy
you do lose control with your depth they
are very sharp
i would personally suggest that round
liner needles are used with caution
i would be encouraging more experienced
artists to use them and if you're not
completely confident with the depth that
you're working at and that you're 100
working in your sweet spot i would avoid
using brown liner needles and i would be
more encouraging you to use a round
shader needle
one round lined needles i.e single
needles will provide you with a lot of
control with accuracy when working
but lack of control with depth
the skin's epidermis thickness varies
from client to client and one around
needles have little resistance and can
pull and snag the skin which can cause
significant trauma if used on the wrong
skin type or used incorrectly
they are ideal for precision work but
should be used with caution and by
experienced artists from being used to
shape the skin a multiple configured rl
needle can pack in pigment very quickly
and create a more saturated result
rather than pixelated
when used correctly and on the right
skin type they can be used to shade an
area very quickly and in less passes
than a one rl single needle
round shader needles are multiply
configured needles that are loosely
packed together which means that they
don't pack in pigment incredibly dense
or as dense as an rl needle
they're nowhere near as sharp they're
definitely a little bit blunter so they
are excellent for using on sensitive
skin types those who bleed easily
without causing as much trauma or the
risk of pigment migrating working too
deep or even discoloring in the future
they can be used to pack in a lot of
color or they can be used to create a
haze of color they're diverse they're
safe to use they're excellent i would
encourage everybody to have them in
their clinic round shaded needles are
multiple needles that are loosely
grouped together meaning there is more
space between the needles and therefore
they don't pack in as much pigment as
quickly making them ideal for shading
and blending they're a good choice of
needle and wanting to create a more
subtle result or when working with
sensitive and delicate skin types
magnum needles are two stacked and
straight rows of needles they are great
for blending and shading and also ideal
for delivering a lot of color very very
quickly
they usually have a long taper
they come in both a curved and stacked
structure
curved magnum needles allow for softer
entry to the skin and therefore risk
less trauma
this means that the end needles in the
configuration are shorter and they
create a curved shape stacked magnum
needles are configured more tightly and
deliver more intense results again very
quickly
use these needles with caution as they
can be traumatic to use
so due to the speed that magnum needles
can deliver pigment minimal passes are
required therefore there is less trauma
to the skin
however i would be looking to create a
very sheer and natural result because
you could risk packing in far too much
pigment far too quickly without
realizing the skin only has a certain
amount of space to hold pigment so if
you risk packing in too much
the area is just going to over saturate
the pigments potentially going to
migrate and potentially discolor so do
use them with caution but they are great
when you're in a situation that you
don't want to create a lot of trauma you
don't want to keep going over the skin
it also is going to half your working
time at the speed due to the speed that
they deliver pigment but definitely use
them with caution
the tip of an acupuncture needle is a
billet shape not a cone shape
they are far less traumatic as they have
a much rounder tip and therefore easily
and more softly enter the skin
pigment is delivered more quickly with
less trauma
acupuncture needles cause less pain as
well as less bruising and swelling
a u-shaped needle is similar to a flat
needle
however the outer needles become shorter
and create the unique u-shape
this creates a softer entry to the skin
than a flat needle and can be great for
creating the same desired effect as a
flat needle
but without causing as much trauma
we must also take needle length into
consideration i.e how long the needle is
when the needle is too long pigment
isn't implanting well the skin looks
irritated warm and sore with very little
colour
pigment is spraying onto the skin
you are having to apply too much
pressure to implant pigment
when the needle is too short pigment is
spilling over the area you are working
on
pigment is tearing out very saturated as
the whole taper is entering the skin
the longer the needle is the longer it
takes for the pigment to reach the tip
of the needle which is good for
precision work a shorter needle is good
for saturation
just a little top tip please don't cover
the hole or the vent as it's there to
release the air pressure
there are three main layers of skin
the epidermis the dermis and the
subcutaneous layer
the epidermis is responsible for
protection skin renewal and shedding
the dermis is a stable layer of skin
cells and houses an abundance of blood
vessels
the subcutaneous layer is composed of
fatty tissue and houses veins and
arteries
so if we were to tattoo within the
epidermis only the results would be very
superficial very patchy weak and just
generally quite poor to look at
the pigment isn't going to retain and
we're more likely to cause the scarring
which can look a little bit pink in
color once healed then actually create a
haze of color throughout the area
however if we work too deep into the
skin and we risk working within the
dermis and the subcutaneous tissue the
pigment is going to heal too dark it's
going to discolor it's probably going to
go quite ashy the pigment's probably
going to migrate and you will have
caused something called a blowout
what we need to do is we need to tattoo
right in between the epidermis and the
dermis within our sweet spot
so how do we know when we're working
within the sweet spot you need to tune
into your senses for me it's about being
able to hear something and to be able to
feel something
when i say you need to be able to hear
something you need to be able to hear a
scratch you need to be able to hear that
the needle is penetrating through the
skin
it's not a substantial sound it's the
difference between hearing nothing and
hearing something but you do need to be
able to listen out for that it should
just be a really gentle subtle sound a
gentle scratch when you look like you're
working through the skin but you need to
be able to hear that you're working
through the skin as well
you also need to be able to feel a
change in sensation and what i mean by
that is that when you are working
through the skin you can feel a change
in the sensation the vibration that's
coming up through the handpiece there's
a very subtle change that just raises
through the handpiece and you can feel
it in your tattooing hand you can also
feel it through your stretching fingers
as well so the fingers that you're
stretching with that are resting on the
skin you should be able to feel
a vibration a sensation change coming up
through these fingers too
again it's not um substantial it's just
the difference between not being able to
feel anything and just being able to
feel something but you don't want to
look like you're working again you also
want to be able to feel it so it's
listening and it's feeling and that is
when you should be working within the
sweet spot
some clients are going to bleed but the
majority won't so if you do feel like
you're getting more than just a little
bit of spotting
then you're probably working too deep
into the skin
we want to tattoo between the epidermis
and the dermis within the sweet spot
if we work deeper than this however we
will cause a blowout which is when we
see pigment migration and major trauma
there will be a lot of blood present and
the pigment will look very dark and
blurry in the skin and will only
continue to get darker and blurrier
a blowout is usually the result of
working too deep into the subcutaneous
fatty layer where the pigment cannot sit
still and it therefore migrates
the correct angle to work in spmu is at
90 degrees the incorrect angles are
below or above 90 degrees when assessing
your angle please ensure that you are
working at 90 degrees to the curvature
of the area that you are tattooing
working below 90 degrees in particular
can cause the needle to resist
penetration and work underneath this
skin rather than directly and gently
into it
the incorrect angle will cause trauma
scarring pigment migration color
saturation and blowouts
the typical needle movements are
pendulum whip shading techniques there
are many more but these are your typical
motions and it's important that we are
working at the correct angle
[Music]
hmm
um
[Music]
[Music]
when we refer to needle stroke length we
aren't referring to how
long the needle is we're actually
referring to
um the motor within the handpiece and
how low down the hand piece the motor is
or how high up the motor is
when we talk about a short stroke length
we are talking about a motor that is
very close to the needle
so when the
motor is retracting and pulling back to
be able to then allow the needle to
penetrate and hit the skin it's not
pulling back at such a long distance
it's a short distance so the impact
isn't that hard
when we are talking about a long stroke
length we are talking about a motor that
is higher up in the handpiece therefore
the needle is pulled back at such a
distance that when it hits the skin it
hits the skin a huge impact because of
the longer distance that is being pulled
back by
when you work with a pmu device most of
the time you're working with a medium
stroke length of around two millimeters
so it hits the skin at a nice medium
impact however when you're working with
maybe a rotary device it's usually
a stroke length a longer stroke length
of around three millimeters so that when
it hits the skin it hits the skin at a
much harder impact
this isn't to be confused with depth
it's not
a matter of the needle working deeper
within the skin it's just the impact on
the skin so you do tend to get slightly
more traumatic results with a rotary
device in comparison to your classic pmu
device
a low machine speed means that the
needle penetrates in and out less times
per second i.e the needle pierces the
skin less times per second
this results in less pigment implanted
into the skin and also less trauma the
slower the machine speed the further
apart the pixels are and you will
therefore achieve a more sheer result
a high machine speed means that the
needle penetration increases and enters
the skin several more times per second
the higher the speed is
this results in more pigment being
implanted into the skin and also more
trauma
the faster the speed is the closer
together the pixels are and you will
achieve more dense unsaturated results
it's important to match the correct hand
speed with the correct machine speed we
need the two aspects to work in unison
we want to match at low machine speed
with a slow hand speed if the hand speed
is too fast the needle will not have
enough opportunity or time to penetrate
the skin and implant pigment
the pixels will be very far apart and
more work and passes will be required
resulting in more trauma
a slow hand speed and a low machine
speed will space pixels further apart
rather than overlapped and the results
will be clearly visible individual
pixels and a more sheer result we would
therefore match a high speed setting
with a fast hand speed
if the hand speed was too slow the
needle would over penetrate the skin and
implant too much pigment into one area
the pixels would be too close together
and overlap each other resulting in
oversaturated results and traumatized
skin a fast hand speed and high machine
speed are great to use together when
creating a result such as hair strokes
once again thank you so much for
watching this video i really hope that
it's been very insightful and that
you've learned a lot from it any
questions leave them below you can
contact us at cosmetic supplies you can
follow me on gigi browse uk on instagram
we're here to help and we're looking
forward to hearing from you don't forget
to like and subscribe to my channel and
i will see you all next sunday
[Music]
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