MacBook Air Dead after an Ice Cream accident - LFC#390
Summary
TLDRIn this tech repair video, a liquid-damaged MacBook Air model A2337 is meticulously inspected. The technician removes the back cover, disconnects the battery, and carefully examines the logic board, finding it surprisingly clean. After cleaning the USB-C ports with isopropyl alcohol and window cleaner, a power issue is resolved by replacing the damaged USB-C connectors. The laptop powers on successfully, and a full charge cycle confirms the repair's success, highlighting the importance of thorough inspection and component replacement in fixing electronic devices.
Takeaways
- 💻 The video is a repair tutorial for a liquid-damaged MacBook Air model A2337.
- 🔧 The repair process begins by removing the back cover and disconnecting the battery to inspect the damage.
- 👀 Initial inspection reveals a surprisingly clean condition, suggesting the possibility of a quick repair.
- 🔌 The technician proceeds to disconnect various connectors from the logic board, including those for the keyboard, trackpad, battery, speaker, microphone array, Wi-Fi antennas, and USB-C ports.
- 🛠 After removing the logic board, it is found to be in good condition, leading to the hypothesis that the keyboard might be the issue.
- 🔄 The MacBook is tested after reassembling, but it exhibits power cycling issues, indicating a problem with the USB-C ports.
- 🔍 Upon closer inspection, the USB-C ports are found to be tarnished and damaged, likely causing the power issues.
- 🧼 The technician cleans the ports with window and glass cleaner followed by isopropyl alcohol to remove residue and tarnish.
- 🔌 After cleaning, the ports are tested with different USB-C connectors to confirm the issue with the original connectors.
- 🆕 Replacing the damaged USB-C connectors resolves the power cycling issue, and the MacBook begins charging normally.
- 🔑 A final keyboard test confirms that the keys are functioning correctly, completing the repair.
Q & A
What type of MacBook is being repaired in the video?
-The MacBook being repaired is a MacBook Air, model number A2337.
What is the primary issue with the MacBook in the video?
-The primary issue with the MacBook is that it has been liquid damaged, as evidenced by the spots visible on the device.
What is the first step taken in the repair process?
-The first step taken is to remove the back cover of the MacBook to inspect the internal components for any signs of damage.
Why does the repairer decide to disconnect the battery?
-The repairer disconnects the battery as a safety measure to prevent any electrical issues while working on the internal components.
What tools are used to disconnect the connectors from the logic board?
-A T3 screwdriver is used to disconnect the various connectors going to the logic board, including those for the keyboard, trackpad, speaker, microphone array, and USB-C ports.
Why does the repairer suspect the keyboard might be the problem after inspecting the logic board?
-The repairer suspects the keyboard might be the problem because the logic board appears to be clean and undamaged, leaving the keyboard as a likely source of issues.
What is the initial test to check if the MacBook powers on after reassembling?
-The initial test is to plug in the power and observe if the MacBook powers on, which in this case, it does not, indicating further issues.
What is the observed behavior when the repairer tries to charge the MacBook with the original USB-C ports?
-The charger cuts out and does not provide power when plugged into the original USB-C ports, suggesting a problem with the ports or internal connections.
What cleaning method does the repairer use on the USB-C ports?
-The repairer first uses window and glass cleaner due to its assurance properties, followed by isopropyl alcohol to clean and remove any residues from the USB-C ports.
What part number is mentioned for the USB-C connectors that were replaced?
-The part number mentioned for the USB-C connectors is 821-D01-658.
How does the repairer confirm that the replacement USB-C connectors are working correctly?
-The repairer confirms the connectors are working by plugging them into the laptop and observing that the charger does not cut out, and the laptop begins charging at a normal rate.
What final test does the repairer perform on the MacBook before concluding the repair?
-The final test is to check the functionality of the keyboard by typing a sentence and using various keys to ensure all keys are working properly.
Outlines
🛠 MacBook Air Liquid Damage Repair
The video script details the repair process of a liquid-damaged MacBook Air model A2337. The repairer begins by removing the back cover to inspect the damage, noting some spots indicative of liquid exposure. The battery is disconnected as a precautionary measure. Upon further inspection, the internal components appear surprisingly clean. The repairer decides to proceed with disassembling the logic board for a thorough check, suspecting a potentially quick resolution if the board is also clean. The repairer uses a T3 screwdriver to detach various connectors, including those for the keyboard, trackpad, battery, speakers, microphone array, Wi-Fi antennas, and audio board, before carefully removing the logic board itself. The repairer encounters minor issues with standoffs falling out but remains optimistic about the repair's outcome, suggesting a possible spare keyboard to test if necessary.
🔌 Troubleshooting USB-C Port Issues
The script continues with the repairer facing issues when attempting to power on the MacBook Air, with the power cycling on and off. The focus shifts to the USB-C ports, which are suspected to be faulty due to the charger cutting out when connected. The repairer inspects the ports and notes their poor condition, deciding to clean them with isopropyl alcohol and window and glass cleaner. After cleaning, the ports show improvement, but when tested, they still cause the charger to malfunction. The repairer then tries different USB-C connectors and discovers that the original ports are indeed the problem, as they cause the charger to reset. This leads to the conclusion that the USB-C ports are internally shorted and need replacement.
🔄 Successful Power Restoration After Replacing USB-C Connectors
After identifying the faulty USB-C ports as the cause of power issues, the repairer replaces them with new connectors and tests the MacBook Air again. The laptop successfully powers on, and the power cycling issue is resolved. The repairer notes the laptop's charging behavior, observing the initial low power draw and subsequent increase in charge rate, which is typical for MacBooks. The laptop charges at an approximate rate of 40-45 watts, which is consistent with the expected performance for a MacBook Air. The repairer tests the charging in different orientations and with different connectors to ensure reliability, confirming that the replacement of the USB-C connectors has resolved the issue.
🎉 Final Testing and Completion of Repair
In the final part of the script, the repairer conducts a final test on the MacBook Air, including checking the keyboard functionality. The laptop is logged in, and the battery charge is rising steadily without any alerts. The keyboard is tested by typing a sentence, using various keys, and the repairer confirms that all functions, including caps lock, tab, and enter, are working correctly. The repairer decides to reassemble the MacBook Air by putting the back cover on and securing it with screws, concluding the repair process successfully. The part number for the replaced USB-C ports is mentioned, and the repairer expresses surprise at the failure of such a simple connector but is satisfied with the outcome of the repair.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡MacBook Air
💡Liquid Damage
💡Logic Board
💡Connectors
💡Screwdriver
💡USB Type-C Ports
💡Power Cycling
💡Charger
💡Polyfuse
💡Keyboard
Highlights
Introduction to fixing a liquid-damaged MacBook Air model A2337.
Observation of external liquid damage spots on the MacBook.
Initial inspection reveals a clean internal state upon removing the back cover.
Disconnecting the battery as a precautionary measure.
Removing and inspecting the logic board for further damage.
Clean internal state of the MacBook indicates potential keyboard damage.
Attempting to power on the MacBook to check functionality.
Initial power cycling behavior observed when trying to charge the MacBook.
Inspection of USB Type-C ports reveals visible damage and tarnish.
Cleaning the USB ports with isopropyl alcohol and window cleaner to remove tarnish.
Testing the MacBook with cleaned USB ports shows improved charging behavior.
Further testing confirms that replacing the damaged USB Type-C connectors resolves the issue.
MacBook successfully charges and powers on after replacing the damaged ports.
Full functionality of the keyboard verified through testing various keys and commands.
Final confirmation that the repair was successful and the MacBook is fully operational.
Transcripts
hello interwebs welcome to let's fix
computers I've got our MacBook here this
is an a
2337 it's a MacBook Air and it's liquid
damaged um so we can see some spots on
top here and such uh so we're going to
find this thing well we're not going to
f it up yet we're going to take the back
cover off and see if we can resolve this
so um I'll just zap these screws out
we'll take the bottom panel off and just
see what we're up against and then I
know what kind of video this is probably
going to
be the answer to that is
spotless okay uh I'll just disconnect
the
battery right well this is looking
pretty darn
clean so I tell you what we're going to
to do we're going to roll the intro and
we're going to take out the logic board
and inspect the other side of it and if
that looks clean as well this might be a
very quick job but yeah see you guys
after the
break so I'm going to start out with a
T3 screwdriver and I'm just going to go
around and remove
all of the connectors going to the logic
board we've
got we've got one for the keyboard and
trackpad here I'll just lift that guy
off that's
fine um the battery obviously is already
disconnected we've got a keyboard there
we've got a speaker connector here and
the microphone array here just lift that
up lift the Locking bar and pull that
guy out
then we've got two type c connectors
here so we'll take out the two screws
for the little cover
plate and then that guy's going to pop
off we've got the Wi-Fi
antennas lift those guys
out we've got the display
connector then we've got two screws up
at this end of the key the logic board
I'll take those out now just so I don't
forget and then we've got another
connector here going over to what I
guess you could call the audio
board because it's got the
audio because it's got the audio circuit
on it and it's also where the touch ID
sensor connects so I need to disconnect
that guy we don't need to disconnect the
touch ID sensor at this point though or
that
speaker so now I should be able to
remove the 1 2 3 4 screws holding the
logic board in and that should come out
and sometimes and as is the case here
the standoff underneath the screw will
come out before the screw does so just
be wary of that that standoff is going
to fall out when I take the board out oh
that one is as well we can put these
back in it's not a big deal just
something to be aware of
right I think we're ready to go so now
I'm just going to gingerly give it a
lift this all seems to be coming
out this thing
is really
clean okay if there's any problems with
this with this
MacBook then I would say it's the
keyboard
uh thankfully I think I I might have
spare keyboards so we might be able to
test for that okay well I'm just going
to put this straight back in and I'm
just going to see if it turns on in that
case is rather
disconcerting right let's plug in some
power and see if it's going to
go okay we had 20 vol then it went
off Okay so we've got a little bit of
power cycling
here it seems to have given
up we did get up to 1.3 amps there that
looked like it was going to
go I'll unplug and plug it back in again
we'll try it
again I'm just going to have a look in
the USB ports as
well those might be
sketchy I'll try the other
Port oh it's actually cut off my uh
charger
right all right the second Port my
charger just cuts out if I try and plug
that one in what about the back Port
again no I'll try flipping the
connector oh no my charger doesn't like
that at
all okay yeah no we got problems there
right so that kind of
behavior that kind of behavior means
there's got to be issues with the ports
or the um uh or the USB control
ships I might just try some different
ports first because that's quite quick
and easy to
do it'll be the first time I've
encountered these ports failing but you
know first for everything I'm going to
see if I can can I pull those out
without taking the logic board
out will it let me come
on come out there we
go oh those ports look pretty
bad well that may well be our problem
let me give you a closeup of that so you
can see that the inside of those type c
ports look pretty
bad I'm going to attack those with some
uh isopropyl alcohol and just see if
those clean up
if not we've got some spares customer
might have a very lucky Escape
here right I'm actually I li I'm
actually going to start with some window
and glass cuz it's a bit more it's a bit
better as a cleaner it has surance in
it alcohol is usually the weapon of
choice because it evaporates sort of
instantaneously however this is a better
cleaning agent so I'm going to attack it
with this first and then I'll go over it
with
alcohol to uh clear off any standing
fluid any
residues there's a little bit of rubber
backing to these just to make a little
bit of a seal I'm not too worried about
damaging that because I'm more
interesting clean these up okay those
tarnished those tarnished pins seem to
have come up quite well they're not
Immaculate but they're a lot better than
they
were
there we
go all right not perfect but a lot
better let's give those a try I tell you
what I might do I might just try
plugging my um charger wire into those
and just see if it freaks out just by
being connected to
them yeah it
does yeah much just cut out
again oh it's Mega off this time I've
actually got to unplug and re and replug
the
charger
right I'll leave that off for a moment
while I just go and get a different type
c
connector right the charger has been
reset I'll just play plug my phone into
it just to make sure that it's
happy yeah that looks good if you mess
around a type-c charger too much then
there is a good chance that it will just
um it will just cut out and you'll blow
the polyfuse in it and if that happens
generally speaking just leaving it
unplugged for about half an hour we'll
probably reset
it okay right I'll just try these
connectors I've got
here cool so there was no reaction to
that we're not expecting anything cuz
it's not connected to anything but the
fact that this hasn't caused my charger
to cut
out same deal
there so that adds a lot of credence to
the
idea that this is
knackered
so I shall plug this into the laptop and
see if it
works now I'm kind of being a little bit
rude here by sliding in without removing
the logic board I would not advise this
however I think then I might just get
away with this and have my uh and have
my 10-minute repair
job all right let's try our luck
everyone
go five volts 20
volts okay Power cycled
again
oh it's
trying oh that's climbing I think that's
charge that looks like charge to
me ah it just made a unch charging beep
hazah I'm G to open it up and have a
look we need to try the other port and
try it in different
orientations oh look customer data uh
cool well that
works right tell you what I'm going to
do uh I'm going to pause the video for
um I'm going to pause the video for
about 10 minutes just so the laptop can
get some charge into it um and uh once
the once the battery has just got some
charge into it so it's not critically
discharged um we'll then unplug it and
we'll just try in all the orientations
just to make sure it works and that
being the case looks like just replacing
those type-c connectors has done the job
so this guy is obviously internally
shorted somewhere in the connector
there's no more visible issues with it
but presumably it's done some damage
inside somewhere no idea aware I'm
surprised that these guys can actually
fail to be honest cuz it's just a pinto
pin connection but you know as I say I'm
sure some people will say oh yeah I've
seen that before so good I'll see you
guys in a
moment okay right it's been 5 minutes or
so and our power level is up to 2.3 amps
so we've got the power out of a we've
got the power we've got the the battery
out of a low power State and it's
actually charging at a decent rate now
might go a bit higher than that um so
remember volts time amps equals Watts so
we're looking at a approximately 40 45
watt um uh power consumption at the
moment and that sounds about right for a
MacBook Air um I think some of these we
might see 65 watt charging but I don't
know which models exactly but 2.3 amps
is going to be approximately 40ish Watts
so that means it's actually charging
with with momentum now it's not trickle
charging when we were sitting at 1.6
amps and the laptop was powered on as
well that was kind of a very slow charge
that didn't look entirely convincing but
yeah um that looks good so let's
disconnect
that and I've I'll just flip the power
connector and plug it back in
again right it's gone straight back up
to 20 volts and as you can see we've got
that little staircase back up to charge
uh amperage again and this is what
MacBooks do um they'll start at a low
power draw and they'll step up the
charge rate um and they'll keep stepping
up until it reaches the point where it
wants to be or the charger says that's
enough so uh that looks pretty good
let's try the other
connector and once again we had a onch
charge chime there and we've got that
little staircase back up to charge rate
looks good I'll just let that settle
just so I don't you know I don't know if
it's possible to confuse it just by
constantly hot plugging it but I can't
imagine it does it any
good and flip the connector so we've
just tested all
orientations and there's our staircase
once
again excellent all right so it looks
like that was it uh it looks like they
had a splash I'll need to test the
keyboard next so um do I have a password
for this
laptop I do I'll just put the back cover
on here for now I'm not going to commit
to putting all the screws back in quite
yet because if the keyboard is knackered
then we're going to be pulling it all
apart
again
so let's open it
up okay so we're logged into this thing
now our batteries at 10% and Rising so
that's looking fine there's no alerts on
the battery although we'd want to give
it a full charge cycle to make sure um
and let's just do a quick keyboard
check just increase the
size 64 will do right the quick brown
fox jumps over the lazy
dog cool and shift the
quick cool the quick
nice command a
backspace volume
brightness um mute
unmute yeah that looks like that's going
to work to me uh let's see caps log caps
loock tab tab yeah enter Happy Days
that's simple all right I think we're
all done here everyone uh I'll stick the
screws back in and we're finished so
yeah um that was that one was a nice
quick easy one so I'll knock this out as
a quick and easy repair I hope you guys
found that kind of interesting um so
yeah uh the little type-c connector here
um so this there is a very tiny number
uh on this guy uh so that's a 821 d01
658 is the part number for those USB
ports they look completely fine but uh
if I plug my if I plug my charger back
into those I'll wager that the charger
will just throw a hissy fit again so
yeah obviously that has suffered some
kind of internal short or something I'm
really tempted to put that under the
microscope and look closer but I don't
actually care because um it's a cheap
connector put a new one in see you next
time everyoneon
bye
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