Skincare Products Are a Scam (I Know, I Made One)

Summary

A board-certified dermatologist shares his eye-opening experience in the skincare industry. After attempting to create an affordable and effective skincare product, he uncovered troubling truths about the industry's marketing tactics, misleading ingredient claims, and the pressure to exaggerate product effectiveness. Despite months of effort, he realized that launching his own brand would mean compromising his values. Instead, he pivots to offering a personal dermatology service for just $30 a month, aiming to provide genuine care and accessible dermatology advice to a wider audience, revolutionizing the way people receive skin care.

Takeaways

• 😀 The skincare industry is filled with misleading claims, and even insiders exploit these to market products.
• 😀 Manufacturers often prioritize profits over the effectiveness of the ingredients in skincare products.
• 😀 Many skincare products use 'marketing level' ingredients, which are too diluted to provide real benefits.
• 😀 At a cosmetic chemist conference, most exhibitors couldn't provide solid scientific evidence proving their ingredients worked on human skin.
• 😀 The skincare industry often masks cosmetic claims as drug claims, making it hard for consumers to distinguish between the two.
• 😀 'Cosmetic claims' often suggest temporary improvements to the skin's appearance, while 'drug claims' imply real, lasting changes to skin health.
• 😀 The difference between cosmetic and drug claims is crucial but not always easy for consumers to spot.
• 😀 Many skincare brands rely on misleading marketing tactics, such as fake reviews and exaggerated before-and-after photos.
• 😀 Despite a well-researched product, the cost of manufacturing small batches makes skincare brands unaffordable to launch without exaggerated claims.
• 😀 The creator ultimately chose to abandon their skincare line and offer personalized dermatology care instead, which is more accessible and ethical.

Q & A

What was the initial idea behind creating the skincare product?

The initial idea was to create a cheap and effective alternative to overpriced skincare products by using the dermatologist's knowledge to develop a product that genuinely works, especially focusing on retinol as a key ingredient.

Why did the dermatologist's first manufacturer suggest doubling the price of the product?

The first manufacturer suggested doubling the price purely because the creator was a doctor, assuming that the name 'doctor' on the label would justify a higher price without even discussing the ingredients or product formulation.

What did the second manufacturer suggest regarding the formulation of the product?

The second manufacturer suggested using pre-existing formulations that included retinol, tweaking them slightly, and then simply putting the creator’s name on the product, rather than creating something new based on the creator’s specific vision.

What was the disturbing revelation about the cosmetic chemist's approach to formulations?

The cosmetic chemist revealed that many skincare brands use minimal amounts of active ingredients—what they call 'marketing level'—just to claim the ingredient is in the product, even though it doesn’t provide any real benefits to the skin.

What did the dermatologist discover at the New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists Suppliers Day?

At the conference, the dermatologist found that many exhibitors couldn't provide solid evidence that their ingredients worked on human skin or compared favorably to existing gold-standard ingredients. Instead, they focused on creating ingredients that sounded appealing to consumers, often without proving efficacy.

What is the difference between 'drug claims' and 'cosmetic claims' in skincare?

Drug claims refer to products that are intended to treat or prevent a skin condition or affect the structure/function of the skin, requiring clinical evidence. Cosmetic claims, however, only claim to temporarily change the appearance of the skin, like reducing the appearance of wrinkles or acne, without actually altering skin function.

How do marketing tactics in the skincare industry mislead consumers?

Skincare marketing often blurs the line between cosmetic and drug claims, using terms like 'clinically proven' or 'medical grade' without legal meaning. This leads consumers to believe the product has real, scientifically-backed benefits when, in fact, it may only provide temporary superficial results.

What was the final revelation that made the dermatologist reconsider launching the product?

The dermatologist realized that launching the skincare product would require lying or exaggerating about its effectiveness, as consumers expect bold claims, and the product's costs would make it unaffordable compared to cheaper, more effective alternatives. This conflict led to abandoning the product launch.

What alternative approach did the dermatologist decide to pursue instead of launching the product?

Rather than selling a skincare product, the dermatologist decided to offer personal dermatology services directly to consumers for a monthly fee, providing accessible and affordable care through chat-based consultations.

Why does the dermatologist believe their new approach is a better solution for helping people with skin problems?

The dermatologist believes offering personal dermatology consultations is a better way to help people because it provides real, personalized care based on professional expertise, which is more effective than selling skincare products. This approach is also more affordable and scalable compared to traditional clinic visits.