Dim Sum for Breakfast at Hong Kong's Lin Heung Restaurant

Summary

Fuchsia Dunlop guides Chef Steve through Lin Heung, a storied Hong Kong tea house where locals start their day with strong Pu’er tea and trolley-served dim sum. She explains the venue’s history, the absence of menus, and the practical ticket system while they sample an array of steamed, pan-fried and deep-fried snacks — from siu mai and cheung fun to radish cakes, meat buns and fish balls. The visit contrasts casual, working-class “yum cha” rituals with more formal dim sum dining, highlights unique textures Westerners may find surprising, and celebrates the social, everyday role of tea houses in Hong Kong life.

Takeaways

• 😀 Lin Heung is one of the last remaining old Hong Kong tea houses, founded in the 1920s.
• 😀 The tea house opens at 6:00 AM and gets busy quickly, with patrons enjoying tea, dim sum, and reading the papers.
• 😀 Pu'er tea, known for its intense flavor, is a popular choice for pairing with dim sum.
• 😀 Lin Heung doesn't have a menu; instead, food is served via trolleys, and customers order directly from them.
• 😀 In the 1920s to 1940s, tea houses like Lin Heung were essential places for people to meet, eat, and conduct business in cramped living conditions.
• 😀 Dim sum is served in a variety of formats, including steamed, pan-fried, and deep-fried options.
• 😀 Lin Heung's system for tracking orders involves marking snacks on a piece of card, categorized by size and price.
• 😀 Common dim sum offerings include pork and shiitake mushroom dumplings, beef balls, and fish balls.
• 😀 The text emphasizes the difference between Western breakfast preferences (sweet foods) and the Chinese preference for savory breakfast items like dumplings and meats.
• 😀 Fuchsia introduces a more peaceful dim sum restaurant experience later, contrasting with the casual, bustling vibe of Lin Heung.

Q & A

What is Lin Heung and why is it significant in Hong Kong culture?

Lin Heung, meaning 'Lotus Fragrance,' is one of the last remaining old-style Hong Kong tea houses. Founded in the 1920s, it represents a traditional teahouse culture where people gather early in the morning to drink tea, eat dim sum, read newspapers, and socialize.

Why do people visit Lin Heung early in the morning?

The teahouse opens at 6 a.m., and by 8 a.m. it is already full. Many visitors come early to enjoy dim sum before work, read the newspaper, catch up with friends, and enjoy the lively atmosphere.

What type of tea is commonly served with dim sum in the script?

The tea served is Pu'er (po lei) tea, known for its mature, strong, and intense flavor. It is a traditional favorite to pair with dim sum.

How does the ordering system at Lin Heung work?

There is no menu; instead, servers push trolleys through the restaurant offering dim sum dishes. Customers pick what they want, and a card under the table is marked to track the number and type of snacks they have taken.

Why were traditional tea houses like Lin Heung especially popular after World War II?

Many Hong Kong residents lived in cramped conditions and often had no kitchens at home. Tea houses served as affordable places to eat meals, meet friends, or even conduct business.

What types of dim sum dishes are mentioned in the script?

Several dim sum dishes are highlighted, including pig liver, beef balls, pork and shiitake dumplings, radish cake, siu mai, fish balls, cheung fun with prawns, and a large steamed bun filled with meats, shrimp, and a quail egg.

Why might some Western diners struggle with certain dim sum dishes like cheung fun?

Cheung fun has a slippery, slithery texture that may be unfamiliar or off-putting to diners who are not used to traditional Cantonese textures.

What makes dim sum a type of restaurant food rather than something typically prepared at home?

Preparing dim sum requires many specialized techniques, ingredients, and a large variety of small dishes. Most people can only make one or two items at home, whereas restaurants can produce a wide range of steamed, fried, and baked snacks.

What is meant by 'Yum cha' and how does it relate to dim sum?

‘Yum cha’ means 'to drink tea' and refers to the whole ritual of enjoying tea alongside a variety of dim sum snacks. It encompasses both the food and the social tradition.

How does the atmosphere at Lin Heung differ from more modern dim sum restaurants?

Lin Heung is loud, bustling, and very casual — a working-people’s café. More modern dim sum restaurants tend to be calmer, more refined, and are frequented for business lunches or leisurely meals with friends.

What does the large steamed bun described near the end contain?

The bun contains shrimp, ham, pork, chicken, and a quail egg, showcasing the complexity and abundance of ingredients found in Cantonese dim sum.