Embroidery: Iloilo Panay Bukidnon’s Panubok and Indonesia’s ikat | Q2 Music and Arts

Summary

The video delves into the intricate and sacred process of creating the Gring Singh textile in Tanganan, Bali. This cloth, revered for its ability to ward off evil and bring good fortune, is made using the complex double ikat technique, a skill that has been passed down for generations. The process involves soaking cotton yarns in natural dyes like indigo and red from local plants, then weaving them into rich, symbolic patterns. The textile is used only for important ceremonies, with a deep cultural significance reflected in its design and meticulous production.

Takeaways

• 😀 Gring Singh cloth is a sacred textile from Tanganan, Bali, known for its ability to ward off evil and sickness, and bring good fortune to the wearer.
• 😀 The production of Gring Singh involves the double ikat technique, where both warp and weft yarns are prepped with resist dyeing before weaving.
• 😀 Tanganan is one of only three places in the world producing double ikat textiles, making Gring Singh extremely rare and valuable.
• 😀 The cloth is used for significant rituals and occasions, such as weddings and life celebrations, rather than daily wear.
• 😀 Cotton yarns are boiled with water and ash to remove softeners and chemicals before dyeing, which helps the dye adhere better.
• 😀 The mortant or dye fixative for the red dye is made from natural ingredients like crushed candlenut, papaya leaf, and turmeric.
• 😀 The yarns are soaked in the mortant mixture for three nights, then hung outdoors for six weeks to ensure proper dye fixing.
• 😀 The first dyeing process involves natural indigo, which is applied in nearby Bug village due to the area's better sun exposure and soil for indigo cultivation.
• 😀 After indigo dyeing, yarns are tied for a second round of dyeing with red dye from the bark of the mulberry tree, which takes up to 12 dips over 3 months.
• 😀 The final cloth is a vibrant mix of colors: deep blue, black, reddish-brown, and honey yellow, reflecting the intricate, time-consuming dyeing process.
• 😀 The weaving process on the backstrap loom uses both dyed warp and weft yarns, and strict traditional rules govern the production of no more than 24 unique patterns in Tanganan.

Q & A

What is the significance of gring singh cloth in Balinese culture?

Gring singh is considered a sacred cloth in Bali, prized for its ability to ward off evil and sickness, and bring good fortune to the wearer. It is typically used in important rituals and celebrations such as weddings and life milestones.

What is the process of making gring singh cloth?

The creation of gring singh involves a complex double-ecot technique, where both the warp and weft yarns are prepared using a resist dyeing method. The yarns are first dyed with natural indigo, followed by multiple dips in a red dye made from the bark of the Minda tree, with resist ties protecting certain areas from color.

What are the key ingredients used in the dyeing process of gring singh?

The key ingredients used in the dyeing process include crushed candlenut, papaya leaves, and turmeric. These natural ingredients, along with water and wood ash, fix the dyes to the cotton yarns, imparting a golden yellow base color and aiding in the red dye process.

How long does the dyeing process for gring singh take?

The dyeing process can take several months, particularly for the red dyeing phase, which may require up to 12 dips over a period of 3 months to achieve the desired deep brick-red color.

Why is indigo dyeing not done in Tanganan?

Indigo dyeing is done in nearby Bug, not Tanganan, due to cultural beliefs and practical reasons. Legend states it is bad luck to dye both colors in the same village, but Bug's climate and soil are also more suitable for growing the indigo plant.

What is the role of the backstrap loom in the making of gring singh?

The backstrap loom is used to weave the dyed warp and weft yarns into the final fabric, where the pattern of the gring singh takes shape. It allows the artisan to intricately interlace the yarns to form the final design.

How is the final coloration achieved in gring singh cloth?

The final coloration of gring singh is achieved through a multi-step process of resist dyeing, where certain areas are tied off to resist color. The combination of indigo blue, marinda red, and honey yellow yarns creates a distinct and bold pattern.

What are some of the motifs found on gring singh cloth?

Motifs on gring singh cloth are influenced by various sources, such as Indian trade textiles, relief carvings from East Java, and Balinese shadow puppet figures. These motifs reflect both cultural and artistic traditions.

What are Prada or gilded yarns in gring singh textiles?

Prada or gilded yarns are used in the most expensive and intricate gring singh textiles. These gilded threads are woven at the end of the ritual cloth, adding an additional layer of richness and symbolism.

What role does Tanganan play in the production of double ecot textiles?

Tanganan is one of only three places in the world that produces double ecot textiles. The village is known for its mastery of the double resist dyeing technique, which involves preparing both warp and weft yarns using the ecot method before weaving them into intricate patterns.