The Truth About Why People Keep Dying On Mt. Everest

Summary

Mount Everest, the ultimate mountaineering challenge, claims lives due to avalanches, exposure, and the 'death zone' above 25,000 feet where the body starts to fail. Traffic jams, inexperienced climbers, and 'summit fever' further increase the risks. The script reveals the harsh realities and high costs of conquering the world's highest peak, urging climbers to reconsider the perilous journey.

Takeaways

• 🏔️ Mount Everest remains a significant challenge in mountaineering, with increasing numbers of people attempting the climb.
• 💀 The most common cause of death on Everest is not falling but avalanches, followed by exposure or frostbite.
• ❄️ Exposure to the elements can lead to fatal conditions such as falling ice, rope accidents, pneumonia, and even drowning.
• 🔽 More climbers die on the descent than the ascent, highlighting the dangers of both directions.
• 🚶‍♂️ Traffic jams on Everest have become a new risk factor, with climbers waiting in line and potentially running out of oxygen.
• 💸 Climbing Everest is not only dangerous but also expensive, with costs ranging from $30,000 to $65,000 for an expedition.
• 🎟️ The Nepalese government has been issuing a record number of climbing permits, leading to overcrowding on the mountain.
• 🧗‍♀️ There are no strict physical requirements for climbing permits, which has resulted in inexperienced climbers on Everest.
• 🌡️ Everest can only be climbed in a narrow window of time in May, between the winter and summer seasons, with harsh weather conditions.
• 🌍 The 'death zone' above 25,000 feet poses significant physiological challenges, including a lack of oxygen and increased risk of altitude sickness.
• 🧠 High altitudes can impair judgment and lead to 'summit fever,' where climbers push through dangerous conditions to reach the top.

Q & A

Why is Mount Everest still considered the holy grail of mountaineering?

Mount Everest is still considered the holy grail of mountaineering because of its height, the challenge it presents, and the prestige associated with successfully climbing it, despite the increasing number of attempts.

What is the primary cause of death for climbers on Mount Everest?

The primary cause of death on Mount Everest is not falling, but avalanches, which account for the majority of fatalities.

What percentage of Everest deaths are attributed to exposure or frostbite?

Exposure or frostbite accounts for around 11% of the deaths on Mount Everest.

Why do more people die on the way down from the summit than on the way up?

More people die on the way down due to factors such as exhaustion, complacency, and the physical and mental strain of the descent, which can be more challenging than the ascent.

How long does it take to reach the base camp of Mount Everest from Nepal?

It takes approximately 10 days to reach the base camp of Mount Everest from Nepal.

What is the average cost of an Everest expedition?

The average cost of an Everest expedition is around $65,000, with the low-end figure being about $30,000.

Why has Mount Everest become a 'tourist trap'?

Mount Everest has become a 'tourist trap' due to the increasing number of climbers and the commercialization of the expeditions, leading to traffic jams and long waiting times on the mountain.

What is the significance of the 'death zone' in the context of climbing Mount Everest?

The 'death zone' refers to the last 4,000 feet of the climb where there is not enough oxygen for the human body to function properly, leading to a higher risk of altitude sickness and death.

How does the phenomenon of 'summit fever' affect climbers on Mount Everest?

Summit fever is a psychological state where climbers, driven by the fear of failure and the desire to reach the summit, push themselves through deadly conditions, often leading to impaired judgment and increased risk of accidents.

What are some of the physical and mental challenges faced by climbers in the death zone?

In the death zone, climbers face challenges such as a lack of oxygen, which can lead to heart attacks, strokes, and altitude sickness, as well as cognitive impairments like high-altitude cerebral edema and hallucinations.

Why is there a limited window for climbing Mount Everest, and what are the risks associated with it?

The limited window for climbing Mount Everest is due to the weather conditions, which are only suitable during the month of May, between the winter storm season and the summer monsoon season. The risks include extreme cold, potential for 'blue sky' deaths when too many climbers attempt to summit on the same day, and the physical and mental strain of high-altitude climbing.

Outlines

00:00

🏔️ The Perils of Everest Climbing

This paragraph delves into the reasons why climbing Mount Everest is so perilous, despite its allure to mountaineers. It highlights that falling is not the primary cause of death, with avalanches and exposure to cold being more common. The script also points out the increasing dangers of overcrowding, which can lead to 'traffic jams' on the mountain, exacerbating the risk of running out of oxygen. The high cost and time investment required for the expedition are also mentioned, along with the lack of stringent requirements for climbers, leading to inexperienced individuals attempting the climb. The narrow window for climbing attempts, due to weather conditions, and the phenomenon of 'summit fever', which can impair judgment and lead to risky decisions, are also discussed.

05:03

🌡️ The Harsh Reality of High Altitude

The second paragraph focuses on the physiological and psychological effects of high altitude on Everest climbers. It explains the severe impact of low oxygen levels, which can lead to physical ailments such as blindness, hemorrhage, and weight loss. Psychologically, climbers may experience impaired judgment, high-altitude cerebral edema, and even hallucinations. The 'death zone' above 25,000 feet is particularly highlighted, where the human body struggles to function due to the extreme lack of oxygen, and where even the decision to help a fellow climber can be a matter of life and death. The phenomenon of 'summit fever' is also touched upon, illustrating how the drive to reach the summit can override rational judgment, often with fatal consequences.

Keywords

💡Mount Everest

Mount Everest is the Earth's highest mountain, standing at over 29,000 feet. It is a significant subject in the video as the ultimate challenge in mountaineering, attracting climbers from around the world. The video discusses the various dangers and fatalities associated with climbing it, emphasizing its status as a 'holy grail' of mountaineering.

💡Avalanches

An avalanche is a rapid flow of snow down a slope, often triggered by natural or human factors. In the context of the video, avalanches are identified as the leading cause of death on Mount Everest, highlighting the unpredictable and deadly nature of the mountain environment.

💡Exposure

Exposure in this context refers to the harmful effects of being exposed to extreme cold without adequate protection. The video mentions that exposure or frostbite is the third most common cause of death on Everest, underlining the harsh weather conditions climbers face.

💡Traffic Jams

In the video, 'traffic jams' on Mount Everest refer to the overcrowding of climbers on the mountain, which can lead to dangerous delays and increased risk of accidents. This term is used metaphorically to describe the congestion that has become a modern issue on the mountain, affecting the safety and experience of climbers.

💡Acclimatization

Acclimatization is the process by which the body adjusts to high altitudes where there is less oxygen available. The video script mentions a six-week period for acclimatization, which is crucial for climbers to prepare their bodies for the ascent and avoid altitude sickness.

💡Climbing Permits

Climbing permits are official authorizations required to climb Mount Everest, issued by the respective governments. The video discusses the financial aspect of these permits, which are a significant source of income for Nepal, and the increase in the number of permits issued, contributing to overcrowding.

💡Death Zone

The 'death zone' refers to altitudes above 25,000 feet where the oxygen levels are so low that the human body cannot function properly. The video describes the physiological effects of being in the death zone, such as muscle breakdown and cognitive impairment, and the increased risk of death.

💡Altitude Sickness

Altitude sickness is a condition that can affect climbers at high elevations due to the lack of oxygen. The video mentions that climbers in the death zone can suffer from altitude sickness, which can lead to life-threatening conditions like pulmonary edema and cerebral edema.

💡Summit Fever

Summit fever is a psychological phenomenon where climbers become obsessed with reaching the summit, often at the expense of their safety and rational judgment. The video script describes how summit fever can lead to climbers pushing themselves in deadly conditions, resulting in fatalities.

💡Experienced Climbers

The term 'experienced climbers' is used in the video to contrast with the influx of inexperienced climbers on Mount Everest. The script suggests that the lack of physical requirements for climbing permits has led to more inexperienced individuals attempting the climb, increasing the overall risk.

💡Weather Window

A 'weather window' refers to a period of relatively good weather conditions suitable for climbing. The video mentions the narrow weather window in May as the only time climbers can attempt to summit Everest, which contributes to the congestion and increased risk during this period.

Highlights

Mount Everest remains the ultimate challenge in mountaineering, despite increased attempts and fatalities.

Falling is not the primary cause of death on Everest; avalanches are the most common killer.

Exposure or frostbite is the third leading cause of death on the mountain, accounting for approximately 11% of fatalities.

More climbers die on the descent than the ascent, highlighting the dangers of route preparation.

Traffic jams on Everest have become a lethal issue due to the high volume of climbers on peak days.

The cost of an Everest expedition ranges from $30,000 to $65,000, reflecting the financial investment climbers face.

Inexperienced climbers are increasing the risks on Everest due to lenient permit requirements and commercial expeditions.

The best climbing window on Everest is extremely narrow, limited to May and influenced by harsh weather conditions.

Climbers face life-threatening conditions in the 'death zone' above 25,000 feet, where oxygen levels are critically low.

Altitude sickness in the death zone can lead to severe pulmonary edema and cognitive impairment.

The physical toll of climbing Everest includes significant weight loss and the risk of heart attack or stroke.

Psychological effects of high altitude include impaired judgment and the phenomenon known as 'summit fever'.

The 2019 climbing season saw a record number of summits in a single day, exacerbating the risks of overcrowding.

Nepal's government has issued a record number of climbing permits, prioritizing income over safety concerns.

The harsh and unpredictable weather on Everest, even in the best conditions, poses a constant threat to climbers.

The combination of ego, financial investment, and high altitudes can lead to dangerous decisions and increased fatalities.

Transcripts

Conquering Mount Everest was once the holy grail of mountaineering.

And it basically still is, though more people are making the attempt than ever.

Not everyone who tries the climb makes it home, but why?

Here's why Mount Everest is claiming so many lives.

It isn't just falling

Mount Everest is more than 29,000 feet tall, which might make you think most victims of

the mountain die by falling.

But that's only the second most common cause of death.

According to the BBC, most people who die on Everest are killed in avalanches.

The third most common cause of death on the mountain is exposure or frostbite, which accounts

for around 11% of fatalities.

Other causes of death include falling ice, rope accidents, pneumonia, or even drowning.

Surprisingly, more people die on the way down from the summit than on the way up, and route

preparation is dangerous, too.

A total of 120 people have died while working on the routes, with a handful more dying at

base camp, en route to base camp, or during an evacuation.

So really, you're not safe anywhere on Mount Everest.

Traffic jams

Mount Everest is one of the most remote places on Earth.

It takes 10 days just to get to base camp in Nepal, six weeks to acclimatize, and another

nine days to climb to the top, and that’s assuming conditions are ideal.

It's also expensive, the low end figure for an Everest expedition is about $30,000, with

an average cost of around $65,000.

And yet one of the things that's been killing people on Mount Everest is something most

of us wouldn't expect: traffic.

In a strange and unexpected development, modern Everest has become something of a tourist

trap.

On the perfect climbing day you might encounter hundreds of other climbers, all trying to

reach the exact same spot.

So now, much like your favorite theme park, you have to wait in line.

The difference is, if you stand too long in line at a theme park the only pain and suffering

you'll experience is the endless whining of your children.

If you wait too long in line at Mount Everest, you might run out of oxygen and die.

So bring lots of oxygen canisters!

Or, you know, just stay away from this mountain, and go line up for Space Mountain instead.

No experience necessary?

You can climb Everest from two different base camps: One in Nepal, and the other in Tibet.

The governments behind both camps used to be pretty selective about who got to go up

the mountain.

Up until 1985, Nepal tended to allow only one expedition on each route at a time.

But Nepal is not a wealthy nation, and a single climbing permit costs $11,000.

That represents a significant income for Nepal: in total, the climbing industry is worth about

$300 million a year.

The Nepalese government issued a record number of 381 permits in 2019, and announced no intention

of scaling back, despite seeing the highest death toll since 2015.

"Ang Dorje Sherpa, who’s summited Everest 20 times, says he’s never seen the mountain

so packed."

"Do you think things need to change?"

"Yes."

There are also no official physical requirements for climbing permits, and some of the adventure

outfits operating in Nepal are less-than-strict about who they'll take to the summit.

That means more inexperienced climbers on the mountain, which means more danger for

everyone.

A tiny window of opportunity

You might imagine the best time to visit Everest would be high summer, when you don't have

to worry about blizzards and freezing temperatures.

But you can only really climb Everest during the month of May, in a very short window of

time between the winter storm season and the summer monsoon season.

But hey, that's at least balmy spring, right?

Nope.

At base camp, daytime temperatures max out at around 59 degrees Fahrenheit, and at night

they drop to freezing.

That temperature drops roughly 2.7 degrees for every 490 feet of elevation, and the summit

is 11,429 feet above base camp.

On the flipside, some parts of Everest can be hot in May, up to 90 degrees, especially

broad, snowy expanses that reflect the sun.

So even in ideal conditions, the weather is going to be bad.

And just because you book your ascent during that narrow window doesn't necessarily mean

you're going to be safe.

In recent years there has been a rash of so-called "blue sky" deaths, because everyone wants

to climb Everest when the sky is blue, and in the 2019 season the weather window was

especially narrow.

On May 22, 2019, climbers set a record for the most humans to reach the summit in a single

day with a total of more than 200.

It's called that for a reason

No matter how fit you are, once you reach a certain elevation, your body starts to literally

die, and you still have more than 4,000 feet to go.

At that point, you're racing against your own mortality.

That last 4,000 feet is called the death zone, because there’s not enough air there for

the human body to continue functioning.

Outside magazine editor Grayson Schaffer described the death zone to NPR, saying,

"Once you get to about 25,000 feet, your body just can't metabolize the oxygen.

Your muscles start to break down.

You start to have fluid that builds up around your lungs and your brain.

Your brain starts to swell.

You start to lose cognition."

"When you are at that altitude, every breath you take, it only contains about a third of

the oxygen that it would if you were at, say, sea level."

In the death zone, climbers can suffer from heart attack, stroke, and altitude sickness.

Fluid can accumulate in the lungs, leading to altitude pulmonary edema, which causes

a cough that's sometimes so severe it can crack a rib.

The low oxygen can also lead to transient blindness or hemorrhage in the blood vessels

of the eyes.

And the whole experience is so physically taxing that one study found Everest climbers

typically lose between 10 and 20 pounds.

Mind playing tricks

As a climber’s body fails, so does the brain.

Climbers in the death zone can experience high-altitude cerebral edema, which can cause

vomiting and impaired judgement.

Some climbers might actually forget they're on Everest, and behave irrationally at the

worst possible time.

Some climbers may even experience a kind of psychosis, and there are plenty of reports

of people hallucinating.

The conditions make it very difficult to make life or death decisions, for yourself, or

anyone else.

Once you're in the death zone there's very little you can do to help a fellow climber

in distress, meaning that trying to help someone may just result in both of you dying.

Is that theme park starting to sound good yet?

Summit fever

Impaired judgment and high altitudes are not a great combination.

But when you add ego and a heavy financial investment, you've got all the ingredients

for death and despair.

There is a phenomenon called "summit fever" that exerts fierce control over many Everest

climbers.

It’s partially caused by impaired judgment, but it also has to do with fear of failure,

and an unwillingness to spend tens of thousands of dollars to not make it to the top.

"You're so close, and you want to summit.

And you're pulled mentally with this strain of 'I want to go up, but I should go down.'"

People who have spent years preparing for Everest may not be ready to face defeat even

when it's obvious they're not going to make it.

So instead of turning around and being humble, people push themselves through deadly conditions,

and often, they get deadly results.

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