How to make a hair mask

Summary

In this video, Belinda Carley, the director of the Institute of Personal Care Science, explains how to create a hair mask and the differences between formulating a mask and a conditioner. She highlights key ingredients such as glycerin, guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, and emulsifiers, emphasizing their roles in moisture retention, conditioning, and viscosity. The video also addresses common misconceptions about the effectiveness of oils and oils' role in conditioning. Belinda provides step-by-step instructions and insights into selecting ingredients for different formulations, giving valuable tips for anyone interested in hair care product formulation.

Takeaways

• 😀 Hair masks are expected to be highly viscous compared to conditioners, giving consumers the perception of being more conditioning.
• 😀 Glycerin is an important ingredient in hair masks as it helps to bring moisture into damaged hair, and its effectiveness is enhanced when left on for 10-15 minutes.
• 😀 Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride is a key ingredient in hair masks that enhances conditioning and detangling due to its cationic charge, and should be used instead of guar gum.
• 😀 The viscosity of hair products (masks or conditioners) is more about consumer perception than the actual conditioning performance.
• 😀 For optimal emulsification, waxes and oils should be added to hot water, as this prevents issues like waxy plugs in manufacturing processes.
• 😀 The conditioning benefits of a product mainly come from cationic emulsifiers like guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, not from the oils used in the formula.
• 😀 Hair masks generally contain higher concentrations of conditioning agents, such as cationic emulsifiers, compared to conditioners.
• 😀 A hydrolyzed protein (like baobabtine) is recommended for hair masks because it is bio-compatible with the hair's keratin structure and helps repair damaged hair.
• 😀 The pH of both hair masks and conditioners should be slightly acidic (4.0 to 4.5) to ensure cationic agents bind effectively to the hair for detangling and anti-static properties.
• 😀 The process of making a hair mask includes heating the water phase, adding emulsifiers, and ensuring proper ingredient emulsification to build viscosity and stability.
• 😀 A conditioner formula is less viscous than a hair mask and contains fewer conditioning agents, with a lower concentration of oils to avoid weighing down the hair.

Q & A

What is the main difference between a hair mask and a conditioner?

The key difference lies in the viscosity and formulation. Hair masks are expected to be extremely viscous and creamy, while conditioners are generally less viscous. This difference influences consumer perception, where a thicker product is often seen as more conditioning.

Why is glycerin used in hair masks?

Glycerin is a humectant, which means it helps to attract moisture to the hair, making it beneficial for very damaged or porous hair. It is particularly useful in hair masks because these are typically left on for a longer period, allowing glycerin to work more effectively.

What is the role of guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride in hair masks?

Guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride is a cationic ingredient used to provide conditioning, detangling, and slip to the hair. It helps to create a more manageable and smooth texture, especially in hair masks.

Why is it important to heat the water phase when formulating hair masks?

Heating the water phase is essential because it helps to melt and emulsify the waxes and other ingredients effectively. If the waxes are not adequately melted, it could lead to manufacturing problems, such as a waxy plug forming at the bottom of the vat.

Does the amount of oil in a hair product affect its conditioning properties?

No, the amount of oil does not significantly affect conditioning properties. The conditioning benefits come from the cationic emulsifiers, like guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, rather than from the oils themselves.

What are the key conditioning agents used in the hair mask formula?

The key conditioning agent used in this formulation is Prodabaquat MCC, which contains ingredients like hentramonium methosulfate, quaternium-87, and saterial alcohol. These ingredients help create conditioning effects like detangling and improving hair texture.

What is the function of saterial alcohol in a hair mask?

Saterial alcohol helps to build viscosity in the formulation. It also plays a role in wash-off properties and contributes to the overall conditioning effect of the mask.

Why should a hydrolyzed protein be included in a hair mask?

Hydrolyzed proteins, like the baobabtine used in this mask, are bio-compatible with the hair's keratin structure, helping to repair and strengthen damaged hair. They are especially effective in hair masks because of the longer contact time with the hair.

What is the purpose of adjusting the pH in a hair mask?

The pH of hair masks should be adjusted to a slightly acidic range (between 4 and 4.5) to ensure that cationic agents cling to the hair shaft. This helps with detangling, providing a slippery finish, and ensuring anti-static properties.

Can you explain the significance of polyquaternium agents in hair masks?

Polyquaternium agents are conditioning additives that provide extra detangling benefits and improve the texture of hair masks. These are particularly important if they are not already present as part of the cationic emulsifier blend.