Why "Sustainable Fashion" Always Fails

Wall Street Millennial
14 Sept 202317:46

Summary

TLDR近年、環境に優しいファッション業界は急速に成長しましたが、実際には持続可能性と利益性の間には溝が存在します。この業界は、古くなった服をオンラインで販売し、新しい消費者に提供することで、リサイクル文化を促進していますが、IPOを行った企業の株価は大きく下落傾向にあります。特に、レントラルウェイやザ・リールリール、ポッシュマーク、スレッドアップなどの企業は、顧客満足度の低さや高額なマーケティング費用、在庫の管理コストなどによって、利益を上げることができませんでした。一方で、オールバードのような企業は環境に優しい素材を使用して製品を製造し、ESG企業として知られるようになりましたが、高額な製品価格とマーケティング費用のために、株価は大きく下落しました。消費者が実際に環境に配慮するかどうかは疑問であり、市場は依然として安価で大量のファッションを求め続けています。

Takeaways

  • 🔄 **循环时尚的兴起**:近年来,所谓的循环时尚和可持续时尚初创公司公开上市,总共筹集了数十亿美元。循环时尚允许人们在线将旧衣物卖给新消费者,而可持续时尚指的是由可生物降解材料制成的衣物,其碳足迹比普通衣物小。
  • 📉 **IPO的失败**:尽管这些公司上市时受到华尔街的热捧,但它们的股票表现却是灾难性的。五家纯可持续时尚公司自IPO以来股价下跌了57%至95%。
  • 💸 **投资者资金的重新分配**:由于利率接近零,投资者在2021年将资金投入亏损的循环时尚公司。然而,随着美联储提高利率,国债现在提供了高达5.5%的收益,这改变了投资者的资金流向。
  • 👗 **Rent the Runway的商业模式**:Rent the Runway成立于2009年,提供服装租赁服务,消费者可以按月支付一定费用来租赁多件服装。尽管理论上听起来高效,但实际上存在清洁、磨损和修复成本高昂的问题。
  • 📈 **收入增长与亏损**:尽管Rent the Runway的收入在2021年恢复增长,并且2022年超过了疫情前的水平,但公司从未实现盈利,其单位经济效益显示,营销和一般管理成本过高。
  • 🛍️ **The RealReal的挑战**:The RealReal是一个电子商务平台,允许人们买卖二手奢侈品。它面临的主要问题是奢侈品容易被仿冒,因此需要昂贵的鉴定过程,这导致它向卖家收取高额佣金,尽管如此,公司仍在亏损。
  • 🛒 **Poshmark和ThredUp的比较**:Poshmark和ThredUp都是在线二手服装买卖平台,但它们的商业模式不同。Poshmark是一个点对点平台,而ThredUp则拥有大型仓库来处理、拍照和列出衣物。Poshmark的资产轻模式使其有更高的贡献利润率,但高客户流失率导致其必须不断进行市场营销。
  • 📲 **技术与运营成本**:Poshmark和ThredUp都需要在技术和运营上投入资金,包括维护网站、客户服务和仓库管理。这些成本对于它们的盈利能力至关重要。
  • 📊 **Allbirds的ESG策略**:鞋类品牌Allbirds尝试在其制造过程中融入环境可持续性,使用环保材料制作鞋子。尽管它试图将自己定位为对环境负责的公司,但其股票自上市以来表现不佳,股价下跌了95%。
  • 💰 **营销成本与客户流失**:Allbirds和其他可持续时尚公司一样,需要在营销上花费巨资以吸引和保留客户。然而,高昂的营销成本和客户流失率导致它们难以实现盈利。
  • 🌐 **消费者行为与市场现实**:尽管媒体炒作和一些消费者声称关心环境,但实际上很少有消费者愿意为环保支付高价。市场最终会供应消费者真正想要的产品——便宜且数量大的衣物,而不考虑环境影响。

Q & A

  • 最近数年間で、どのようなエコロジー志向のファッションスタートアップが注目されていますか?

    -最近数年間で、循環型ファッションと持続可能なファッションのスタートアップが注目されています。循環型ファッションとは、人々が古い衣服をオンラインで新しい消費者に販売するものです。持続可能なファッションは、バイオデgradable材料で作られ、通常の衣服よりも小規模なカーボンフットプリントを持つ衣服を指します。

  • ファストファッション業界の環境への影響として、どのような問題が指摘されていますか?

    -ファストファッション業界は、衣服が非常に安価になり、人々がその衣服を大量に購入することで、数百万トンの使用済みの衣服が最終的に廃棄物処理場に流れ込む問題があります。これにより、環境への影響が大きくなり、批判の的となっています。

  • Wall Streetが循環型ファッション業界をどのように評価していますか?

    -Wall Streetは、循環型ファッション業界を次の大きな事象と位置づけ、IPOを通じて多くの持続可能なファッション企業を公表していますが、それらのIPOは例外なく失敗を喫していました。

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  • トレンドのランウェイという企業のビジネスモデルとは何ですか?

    -トレンドのランウェイは、2009年に設立された企業で、大規模な倉庫を持ち、何千もの衣服を所持しています。消費者は月額94から193ドルを支払い、同時に5から15アイテムの衣服にアクセスすることができます。ウェブサイトから選択し、必要な時に自宅に配送されます。

  • トレンドのランウェイはなぜ利益を上げるのに苦労していますか?

    -トレンドのランウェイは、衣服のクリーニング、修繕、配送などのコストが高く、顧客満足度が低く、悪質な広告などによる顧客の不満が報告されています。また、売上の31%を満たすために、マーケティングと一般管理費を削減する余裕がありません。

  • リアルレアルとはどのような企業ですか?

    -リアルレアルは、高級ブランドの古着を購入・販売できる電子商取引プラットフォームです。彼らのメインセールスポイントは、プラットフォームで販売されるすべてのアイテムが専門家によって認証されることです。

  • ポッシュマークとスレッドアップはどのような違いがありますか?

    -ポッシュマークは、eBayのようなピアツーピアの電子商取引プラットフォームで、個人が古着を売却することができます。一方、スレッドアップは、古着を集めるための大きな倉庫を持っており、衣服を並べ替え、ウェブサイトで販売します。

  • ポッシュマークはなぜ顧客満足度の低さに苦しんでいますか?

    -ポッシュマークはピアツーピアプラットフォームであり、売手の品質や信頼性を警察するのが非常に困難です。そのため、購入者の経験が悪く、顧客満足度が低くなっています。

  • スレッドアップはなぜ利益を上げるのに苦労していますか?

    -スレッドアップは、倉庫維持費が高く、売却する各アイテムの利益が小さく、倉庫費用をカバーするには十分ではありません。また、売手からは手数料が高いと不満があり、多くのアイテムが説明なしに消えると感じています。

  • オールバードという企業は持続可能な素材を使用した靴作りにどのような課題に直面していますか?

    -オールバードは、環境に優しい素材を使用することで高価格の靴を提供していますが、売上の増加に伴い、損失も増大しています。また、彼らのマーケティング費用は非常に高く、売上の40%近くをマーケティングに費やしています。

  • 消費者が実際に環境問題についてどれだけ関心を持っているのかを示す最もいい方法とは何ですか?

    -消費者が実際に環境問題にどれだけ関心を持っているかを知る最もいい方法は、アンケートや市場調査を行うことです。ただし、実際には人々が環境への関心を示すために高価格で見栄えの悪い靴を購入する人は非常に少なく、人々は安価で大量の衣服を求めることになるでしょう。

Outlines

00:00

🔄 循环时尚与可持续时尚的兴起与挑战

近年来,所谓的循环时尚和可持续时尚初创公司公开上市,筹集了数十亿美元的资金。循环时尚允许人们在线将旧衣物出售给新消费者,而可持续时尚指的是由可生物降解材料制成、碳足迹较小的衣物。快时尚产业因其环境影响受到越来越多的批评。年轻一代消费者更加关心环境问题,因此能够减少浪费的服装公司有望获得市场份额。然而,这些公司的首次公开募股(IPO)表现糟糕,股价普遍下跌。视频将深入探讨循环时尚,分析为何盈利能力和可持续性可能是互斥的。

05:02

📉 Rent the Runway和The RealReal的商业模式与困境

Rent the Runway和The RealReal是两家尝试解决昂贵衣物常被闲置问题的公司。Rent the Runway提供服装租赁服务,而The RealReal是一个奢侈品二手商品买卖平台。尽管理论上这些模式听起来高效,但实际操作中存在许多问题,如高昂的干洗和修补成本,以及客户服务质量问题。两家公司都面临财务困境,Rent the Runway上市后股价下跌严重,而The RealReal则因为鉴定成本高昂而难以盈利。

10:03

🛍️ Poshmark和ThredUp的P2P与集中式循环时尚模式

Poshmark和ThredUp是两家面向大众市场的循环时尚公司,它们允许个人买卖二手衣物。Poshmark类似于eBay的P2P电商平台,而ThredUp则提供从收集、分类到销售的一站式服务。Poshmark的商业模式较轻,主要费用为运营应用、市场营销和客户服务。ThredUp则因为其重资产模式,需要处理大量的物流和库存,导致其利润较低。两家公司都面临客户流失问题,需要不断投入市场营销以吸引新客户。Poshmark最终被韩国搜索引擎公司Naver收购,而ThredUp则因客户评价不佳和高昂的费用而受到批评。

15:04

🌿 Allbirds的环保制造与市场表现

Allbirds是一家尝试将环境可持续性融入其制造过程的品牌。其鞋子使用环保材料制成,虽然价格昂贵,但公司希望消费者愿意为支持环境而支付高价。Allbirds在风险投资的支持下迅速增长,并在公开市场上市,尽管从未盈利。由于其营销成本高昂,公司的运营亏损每年都在增加。随着增长放缓,投资者开始抛售股票,导致股价大幅下跌。尽管有环保意识的消费者存在,但大多数人在购买衣物时还是更看重价格和数量,而不是环境影响。

Mindmap

Keywords

💡持続可能なファッション

持続可能なファッションとは、環境への影響を最小限に抑えるためのファッション業界の取り組みを指します。この動画では、生物分解性のある資材を使用して作られる衣服や、通常の服よりも二酸化炭素排出量が少ないという特徴が説明されています。持続可能なファッションは、若い世代の消費者が環境問題に注目し始めた背景下で、市場シェアを獲得する可能性があるとされています。

💡サークルファッション

サークルファッションは、人々が自分の古着をオンラインで新しい消費者に販売できるビジネスモデルを指します。動画では、サークルファッションがどのようにして売手が古着を捨てずに売却し、買手が名品服を割引価格で手に入れ、さらに古着が埋立地に捨てられることを減らせるという双赢の手法であるかについて説明されています。

💡ファストファッション

ファストファッションは、安価で大量生産される衣服を指し、環境への影響で批判されています。動画では、ファストファッション産業が、衣服が非常に安価で消費者が大量に購入するため、数百万トンの古着が埋立地に捨てられる問題を引き起こしていると述べています。

💡リントザルーウェイ

リントザルーウェイは、2009年に設立された企業で、消費者が月額料金を支払って多数の服を借りることができるサービスを提供しています。動画では、リントザルーウェイが所有していない衣服を借りるというビジネスモデルが理論上は効率的であるが、実際には清潔や修理などのコストがかかる問題があると指摘されています。

💡ザ・レアルリアル

ザ・レアルリアルは、高級ブランドの古着やアクセサリーを購入・販売できる電子商取引プラットフォームです。動画では、ザ・レアルリアルが偽造品のリスクに対処するために、専門家による商品認証プロセスを設けていることが説明されていますが、そのプロセスの高コストが問題となっています。

💡ポッシュマーク

ポッシュマークは、個人間取引の電子商取引プラットフォームで、eBayと似ています。動画では、ポッシュマークがアセット軽量のビジネスモデルを採用しており、売上の20%をマーケティングに費やしていることが触れられており、顧客満足度の低さから新たな顧客を獲得し続ける必要があると指摘されています。

💡スレッドアップ

スレッドアップは、古着を購入・販売できるオンラインプラットフォームで、大量の倉庫を持っているというアセット重視のビジネスモデルを採用しています。動画では、スレッドアップが販売価格の15~80%を売却者に支払うと説明されており、売上の大部分を倉庫の運営コストに充てているため、マーケティングやオーバーヘッドコストをカバーするのが難しいと指摘されています。

💡オールバード

オールバードは、環境に優しい素材で靴を製造するシューズ会社で、環境永続性に力を入れているとされています。動画では、オールバードが環境に優しい素材を使用することで高価な製品を提供し、環境への関心を示す消費者に訴求しているが、その高価格が売上の悪化につながっていると述べています。

💡環境永続性

環境永続性とは、製品やサービスが環境に与える影響を最小限に抑える取り組みです。動画では、消費者が環境永続性について聞かれると関心を持つと答えるかもしれないが、実際には安価で大量の商品を求めることが多いと指摘されています。

💡B型企业

B型企业とは、利益だけでなく社会的、環境的な影響も重視する企業です。動画では、オールバードがB型企业として認められており、そのステータスを投資家にアピールしているが、株価が下落していることを示して、環境永続性の取り組みだけでは株主の価値を最大化できないことを示しています。

💡マーケティング費用

マーケティング費用とは、製品やサービスを宣伝するために企業が費やす資金です。動画では、持続可能なファッション企業がマーケティング費用を大幅に削減することができない理由として、顧客満足度の低さから離れる顧客を置き換える必要があることが挙げられています。

Highlights

近年来,所谓的循环时尚和可持续时尚初创公司公开上市,总共筹集了数十亿美元。

循环时尚允许人们在线将旧衣物出售给新消费者,而可持续时尚指的是由可生物降解材料制成的衣物,其碳足迹比普通衣物小。

快时尚产业因其环境影响而受到越来越多的批评,廉价衣物导致数百万公吨的旧衣物最终被填埋。

年轻一代消费者更关心环境问题,能够减少浪费的服装公司有望获得市场份额。

循环时尚看似双赢,卖家可以从旧衣物中获得一些钱,而不是扔掉它们;买家可以以更低的价格获得名牌衣物,且减少衣物被填埋。

华尔街迅速将该行业炒作为下一个大事件,为多家可持续时尚公司公开上市铺平了道路。

然而,这些IPO无一例外都是灾难,五家纯玩可持续时尚公司的股价自IPO以来下跌了57%至95%。

亏损的循环时尚公司之所以能够在2021年上市,是因为利率接近零,投资者没有更好的资金去向。

Rent the Runway是第一家认真尝试解决昂贵衣物闲置问题,通过订阅服务模式提供服装租赁。

Rent the Runway的商业模式在理论上听起来很棒,但在实践中存在一些主要问题,如干洗和修补衣物的成本高昂。

Rent the Runway在疫情期间销售大幅下降,尽管疫情消退后收入逐渐恢复,但公司从未实现盈利。

The RealReal是一个电子商务平台,允许人们买卖奢侈品牌二手商品,其主要卖点是严格的商品认证过程。

Poshmark和Thredup是两家面向大众市场的循环时尚公司,它们的商业模式不同,Poshmark更侧重于P2P交易,而Thredup则提供更多的服务。

Poshmark的资产轻模式理论上可以使它们非常盈利,但实际上需要大量营销支出来维持客户。

Thredup的资产重模式导致其贡献利润较低,且由于二手衣物利润微薄,无法覆盖其庞大的仓库费用。

Allbirds等品牌尝试将环境可持续性融入其制造过程中,使用环保材料制作产品,但高昂的成本和市场接受度是其面临的挑战。

Allbirds作为一家公开上市的ESG公司,尽管其股价自IPO以来下跌了95%,但其对环保的承诺和认证B公司的地位吸引了投资者和消费者。

尽管媒体炒作,但大多数消费者实际上并不关心环境可持续性,他们更愿意购买便宜且数量大的衣物,而不是昂贵的环保品牌。

Transcripts

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over the past few years a number of

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so-called circular fashion and

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sustainable fashion startups have gone

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public raising billions of dollars in

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aggregate circular fashion is where

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people can sell their old clothing to

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new consumers online sustainable fashion

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refers to clothes that are made from

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biodegradable materials which have a

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smaller carbon footprint than normal

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clothes in recent years the fast fashion

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industry has been the subject of

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increasing criticism due to its

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environmental impact clothes are now so

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cheap and people buy so much of it that

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millions of tons of used clothes end up

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in landfills with the younger

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generations of consumers caring more

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about environmental issues clothing

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companies that can cut down on waste

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should be well positioned to gain market

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share circular fashion seems like a

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win-win sellers get some money from

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their old clothes instead of throwing

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them away buyers get name brand clothes

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for a fraction of the near price and

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less clothes end up in landfills Wall

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Street wasted little time in hyping up

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the industry as the next big thing

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Paving the way for a number of

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sustainable fashion companies to go

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public over the past few years years

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however without exception these IPOs

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have been complete disasters of the five

play01:05

Pure Play sustainable fashion companies

play01:07

their share prices have declined between

play01:09

57 and 95 since their IPOs one of the

play01:13

five companies Poshmark was acquired

play01:16

last October for 57 less than its IPO

play01:19

price which was just one year prior of

play01:22

the four sustainable fashion companies

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that remain publicly traded today they

play01:25

have all suffered share price declines a

play01:27

Nexus of 80 percent in this video we'll

play01:30

take a deep dive into circular fashion

play01:32

and see why profitability and

play01:34

sustainability may be mutually exclusive

play01:37

a big reason why money losing circular

play01:39

fashion companies were able to go public

play01:41

in 2021 was because interest rates were

play01:44

near zero so investors had nowhere

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better to park their cash but thanks to

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the fed's rate hikes this is no longer

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the case treasury bonds now offer yields

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as high as five and a half percent which

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is backed by the full faith and credit

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of the US government and thanks to

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today's video sponsor public buying

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treasury bonds has never been easier in

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the past you would either have to go to

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a physical bank branch or navigate a

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percent yield on your cash backed by the

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US government Link in the description

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below

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there are three main types of

play02:47

sustainable fashion firstly there's

play02:49

circular luxury secondly there's

play02:51

circular Mass market and finally their

play02:53

sustainable manufacturing we'll look at

play02:56

each of these three business models in

play02:57

order the idea of circular fashion seems

play03:00

to make a lot of sense at first for

play03:02

example a bride might spend thousands of

play03:03

dollars on a wedding dress which they

play03:05

wear only one time this is clearly a

play03:07

massive waste of money Beyond special

play03:09

occasions like weddings a lot of people

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buy expensive clothes but then get bored

play03:14

of them so they end up sitting in the

play03:15

wardrobe 90 of the time doing nothing

play03:17

the first company which seriously

play03:19

attempted to address this problem was

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Rent the Runway founded in 2009 they

play03:24

have a massive Warehouse with hundreds

play03:26

of thousands of pieces of clothing

play03:27

consumers can pay between 94 and 193

play03:31

dollars per month to get access to

play03:33

between 5 and 15 articles of clothing at

play03:35

a time you choose to close from their

play03:37

website and they're delivered to your

play03:39

door whenever you get bored of the

play03:40

clothes you can mail it back to them and

play03:42

get a new one this should be much more

play03:44

efficient than buying clothes because

play03:46

the clothes are never sitting in a

play03:48

wardrobe doing nothing as soon as you're

play03:50

done with the clothes they can be sent

play03:51

back for someone else to wear while rent

play03:53

the runway's business model sounds great

play03:55

in theory there are a few major problems

play03:57

in practice each time an article of

play03:59

clothing is returned it must be dry

play04:01

clean which is a costly process also

play04:04

clothes experience wear and tear over

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time Rent the Runway employs large

play04:08

numbers of seamstresses who make repairs

play04:10

to the clothing on a regular basis

play04:12

read the runway sales plummeted during

play04:14

the pandemic with people staying at home

play04:16

there is less demand for designer

play04:18

clothes as a pandemic subsided their

play04:20

revenue gradually recovered in 2021 they

play04:24

ipo'd and used the proceeds to ramp up

play04:26

their marketing budget in 2022 they

play04:29

finally surpassed their pre-coveted

play04:30

revenue despite the strong Revenue

play04:32

growth retina Runway has never been

play04:34

profitable we can look at their unit

play04:36

economics for 2022 for every 100 of

play04:40

Revenue they generated they spent 31 on

play04:42

fulfillment this includes shipping the

play04:45

products to and from the customer's

play04:46

house as well as cleaning and repairing

play04:48

the clothes they spent 19 on technology

play04:51

which includes operating the website and

play04:53

various other software that they use to

play04:55

keep track of their massive inventory

play04:56

they spent 28 on the cost of the clothes

play04:59

themselves eventually the clothes are so

play05:01

worn out that they need to be thrown

play05:03

away and replaced and finally they had

play05:05

six dollars of depreciation in

play05:07

amortization this leaves them with a

play05:09

contribution profit of 16 that is not

play05:12

enough to cover their marketing in

play05:14

general and administrative costs so the

play05:16

company reported an operating loss when

play05:18

a company has a positive contribution

play05:20

profit they could theoretically become

play05:22

profitable by increasing their revenue

play05:24

hopefully their overhead costs and

play05:26

marketing will decrease as a percentage

play05:27

of Revenue but it doesn't look like this

play05:29

is in the cards for Rent the Runway Rent

play05:32

the Runway has extremely bad customer

play05:33

reviews with just 1.4 out of 5 stars on

play05:36

trustpilot people complain of the closer

play05:39

of poor quality and excessively worn out

play05:41

consumers also complain about deceptive

play05:43

advertising they signed up for Rent the

play05:45

Runway after seeing online

play05:46

advertisements which show high quality

play05:49

clothes when they actually start using

play05:51

the platform the clothes on the

play05:52

advertisements are not available

play05:53

resolving these customer complaints

play05:56

would require expanding their warehouses

play05:57

holding more inventory and replacing

play06:00

worn out clothes faster improving the

play06:02

customer experience would cost money

play06:04

that Rent the Runway doesn't have as

play06:06

they're already losing money as is Rent

play06:08

the Runway has failed as a business

play06:10

within just two years of going public

play06:12

look the share price has declined by 94

play06:14

percent with a share price of 98 cents

play06:17

and a market cap of just 66 million

play06:19

dollars it is squarely within penny

play06:21

stock territory and will likely go

play06:23

bankrupt the core problem for Rent the

play06:25

Runway is that they have to ship dry

play06:27

clean and repair the clothes on a near

play06:29

weekly basis which is a massive expense

play06:31

secondly there's an incentive problem

play06:33

when people own their clothes they're

play06:35

more likely to take care of them so they

play06:37

can last a long time if you're just

play06:39

going to send the clothes back next week

play06:41

There's far less incentive to take care

play06:43

of them this creates a situation where

play06:45

the quality is subpar and customer churn

play06:48

is high this requires the company to

play06:50

spend exorbitantly on marketing to

play06:52

replace lost customers which has thus

play06:54

far prevented them from ever turning a

play06:56

profit

play06:57

the next circular Luxury company is the

play06:59

real real founded just a couple years

play07:01

after Rent the Runway it also aimed to

play07:04

solve the problem of old designer

play07:05

clothes sitting in people's wardrobes

play07:06

doing nothing the real real is an

play07:08

e-commerce platform which allows people

play07:10

to buy and sell luxury apparel and other

play07:12

accessories you can buy second-hand

play07:14

luxury goods from Top designers like

play07:16

Gucci Louis Vuitton and Prada at up to

play07:18

90 off the original retail price the

play07:21

main problem with secondhand luxury

play07:23

goods is that there's a massive

play07:24

incentive to counterfeit it can be very

play07:26

difficult to tell the difference between

play07:28

a well-made fake and the real thing the

play07:30

real real has massive authentication

play07:32

centers where every single item sold on

play07:34

a platform must first go to to be

play07:36

authenticated by an expert this is their

play07:38

main selling point and why the name of

play07:40

the company is real real there have been

play07:42

incidents of fake products slipping

play07:44

through the cracks but overall real real

play07:46

does a pretty good job of verifying the

play07:47

authenticity and customer reviews are

play07:49

generally positive the problem is this

play07:52

process is extremely expensive they have

play07:54

to hire hundreds of authenticators to

play07:56

look at every single item because of

play07:58

this they are forced to charge

play07:59

exorbitant commission fees to sellers on

play08:01

the platform if you send real real a

play08:03

product that they sell for 99 you'll

play08:06

only get nineteen dollars there's a

play08:08

sliding scale where the commission is

play08:09

lower the more valuable the item is but

play08:11

even at the top bracket they will still

play08:13

take a 30 commission despite these

play08:16

massive fees real real is still losing

play08:18

huge amounts of money in 2022 for each

play08:21

one hundred dollars of Revenue they

play08:23

generated they incurred forty two

play08:24

dollars for cost of Revenue cost of

play08:27

Revenue consists mainly of shipping

play08:28

costs and payment processing fees they

play08:31

spend a further 46 dollars on operations

play08:33

and technology which mostly consists of

play08:35

their authentication centers this leaves

play08:37

them with just 12 dollars of

play08:39

contribution profit which is nowhere

play08:41

close to covering their marketing and

play08:42

overhead costs since its IPO in 2019 the

play08:45

real real share price has declined by 91

play08:48

as investors have completely lost faith

play08:50

in their supposed paths or profitability

play08:52

the idea of an online Marketplace for

play08:54

second-hand clothing makes sense in

play08:56

theory it just doesn't work for luxury

play08:58

items because the cost of authentication

play09:00

is prohibitively high but what about for

play09:03

cheaper clothes that wouldn't even be

play09:04

worth counterfeiting would secondhand

play09:06

e-commerce work there

play09:08

in 2021 two mass-market circular fashion

play09:11

companies went public Poshmark ipo'd at

play09:14

a three billion valuation and thread up

play09:16

iPod at 1.3 billion valuation both

play09:19

companies saw their share prices surge

play09:21

on the first day of trading as investors

play09:22

were hyped about the circular fashion

play09:24

opportunity Poshmark is a peer-to-peer

play09:27

e-commerce platform very similar to eBay

play09:29

if you have old clothes you want to sell

play09:31

you can take pictures of them and list

play09:33

them on the Poshmark app you set your

play09:35

own price and can negotiate with the

play09:37

buyer the buyer pays for shipping you

play09:39

print out a prepaid shipping label and

play09:41

send it off to the buyer's address

play09:43

Poshmark takes a 20 fee on the sale

play09:45

price of each item the main bold case of

play09:48

Poshmark is that it has an asset light

play09:50

business model they don't have any

play09:52

warehouses and never take physical

play09:53

delivery of any inventory in theory this

play09:56

could make them very profitable as their

play09:58

only expenses are operating the app

play10:00

marketing and customer service

play10:03

thredup is also an online platform to

play10:05

buy and sell second-hand clothing if you

play10:07

have a lot of clothing that you don't

play10:08

use anymore thredup can send you a large

play10:10

bag where you put all of your clothes

play10:12

and send it over to them thredup has

play10:14

massive warehouses where they sort

play10:15

through all the clothes photograph them

play10:17

and list them for sale on their website

play10:19

when your items sell you receive 15 to

play10:22

80 percent of the value based on the

play10:24

item price the max payoff percentages

play10:26

for items that sell for 200 or more

play10:28

thread up charges higher fees to sellers

play10:30

than Poshmark this is to be expected

play10:33

given that they have thousands of

play10:34

employees at their warehouses Poshmark

play10:36

and thredup Target two different types

play10:38

of customers Poshmark sellers are

play10:40

willing to put in the time to list the

play10:42

product themselves in an effort to

play10:43

receive the highest possible price for

play10:45

their used clothing thread up sellers

play10:47

are willing to receive worse prices for

play10:49

their clothes in exchange for the

play10:50

convenience of thredup handling the

play10:52

listing and fulfillment the third

play10:53

quarter of 2022 was poshmark's last as a

play10:56

publicly traded company so we'll use

play10:58

this to judge their unit economics for

play11:00

every 100 of Revenue they brought in

play11:03

Seventeen dollars went to the cost of

play11:04

Revenue this includes Payment Processing

play11:07

fees and the cost of operating their

play11:08

website Poshmark takes a 20 Commission

play11:11

of the gross merchandise value and

play11:12

that's what they recognize as net

play11:14

revenue but they have to pay Payment

play11:16

Processing fees on the entire value a

play11:18

further eighteen dollars went to

play11:19

operations and support which primarily

play11:21

consists of customer support

play11:23

representatives and the like one dollar

play11:25

goes to depreciation and amortization

play11:27

this leaves them with sixty four dollars

play11:29

of contribution profit for every one

play11:31

hundred dollars of Revenue that's a

play11:33

pretty good margin but by construction

play11:35

asset light businesses like Poshmark

play11:37

always have high contribution margins

play11:39

the real question is how much it costs

play11:42

to keep customers on the platform one

play11:44

thing to note is that Poshmark spends a

play11:46

lot of money on marketing almost half of

play11:48

their revenue the reason they have to

play11:50

spend so much on marketing is their High

play11:51

customer churn the company has horrible

play11:54

customer reviews with just 1.3 stars out

play11:56

of 5 on trustpilot the main complaint is

play11:59

that sellers are often unresponsive and

play12:01

the products are often in far worst

play12:03

condition than their photos would lead

play12:04

you to believe because Poshmark is a

play12:07

peer-to-peer platform it is very

play12:08

difficult to police the quality and

play12:10

trustworthiness of the sellers this

play12:12

makes for a poor buyer experience

play12:14

Poshmark needs to constantly spend on

play12:16

marketing to replace lost customers this

play12:19

is never a sustainable strategy because

play12:20

eventually you run out of new customers

play12:22

to market to in October of 2022 the

play12:25

South Korean search engine company Naver

play12:27

acquired Poshmark for 17.90 per share

play12:31

representing an all-cash consideration

play12:33

of 1.2 billion dollars why they wanted

play12:36

to buy a money losing business on the

play12:37

other side of the world with a 1.3 star

play12:39

trust pilot rating is beyond me but it

play12:42

allowed poshmark's investors to cash out

play12:44

albeit for a 57 loss compared to their

play12:47

IPO price less than two years prior

play12:49

given the asset heavy nature of

play12:51

thredup's business model their

play12:53

contribution margin is far lower than

play12:55

poshmarks for every 100 of net revenue

play12:58

they spend 33 dollars on outbound

play13:00

shipping and 48 on sorting photographing

play13:02

and listing the products on their

play13:04

platform this leaves them with only

play13:06

nineteen dollars of contribution profit

play13:08

which is not nearly enough to cover

play13:09

their marketing and overhead costs the

play13:12

marketing expense is necessary to bring

play13:13

in new customers to replace the

play13:15

customers who leave the platform

play13:17

threadup's customer reviews are almost

play13:19

as bad as poshmarks with just 1.6 out of

play13:22

5 stars on trustpilot while most of

play13:24

poshmark's complaints come from Liars

play13:26

most of thredup's complaints come from

play13:28

sellers sellers complain about the

play13:30

exorbitant fees that thread up charges

play13:31

as well as the fact that many of the

play13:33

items that they send in simply disappear

play13:35

without explanation the problem with

play13:37

thredup is that the second hand clothes

play13:39

are just too cheap the amount of profit

play13:41

that they make from selling each item is

play13:43

too small to cover their massive

play13:45

Warehouse expenses this has caused them

play13:47

to cut Corners leading to a poor seller

play13:49

experience games unsurprisingly

play13:51

thredup's share prices lost 83 percent

play13:53

of its value since its IPO

play13:56

if circular fashion doesn't work how

play13:58

else can a business benefit from

play13:59

consumer interest in environmentalism

play14:01

some Brands including the shoe company

play14:03

all birds have tried to incorporate

play14:05

environmental sustainability into their

play14:07

manufacturing process the tops of

play14:09

Albert's shoes are made from wool the

play14:11

sole is made from sugarcane the laces

play14:13

are made from recycled plastic this

play14:15

gives them a significantly lower carbon

play14:17

footprint than normal shears which are

play14:19

typically made from polyester or nylon

play14:21

mesh from the outset all birds tried to

play14:24

position itself to investors as an

play14:25

environmentally responsible ESG company

play14:27

they proudly boasted their status as a

play14:30

certified B Corporation B certification

play14:33

is given out by a non-profit

play14:34

organization called B lab which judges

play14:36

companies based on their ESG

play14:38

characteristics all birds further claims

play14:40

that their commitment to ESG has turned

play14:42

them into a thought leader which will

play14:44

presumably boost their sales from

play14:45

environmentally conscious consumers they

play14:48

brag that as a certified B Corporation

play14:50

they do not aim purely to maximize

play14:52

shareholder value instead they have a

play14:54

vague mission of prioritizing positive

play14:56

outcomes for all stakeholders they made

play14:59

good on their promise to neglect

play15:00

shareholder value as the share price has

play15:02

declined by 95 percent since the company

play15:04

went public so why is all birds

play15:06

performed so disastrously all birds goes

play15:09

out of its way to make its shoes out of

play15:10

environmentally sustainable materials

play15:12

which are far more expensive because of

play15:15

this Albert's shoes are very expensive

play15:16

with the cheapest men's shoes costing

play15:18

over one hundred dollars per pair the

play15:21

thinking is that people will be willing

play15:22

to pay these high prices because it

play15:24

shows their support for the environment

play15:25

all birds has always been generously

play15:28

funded by Venture capitalists who bought

play15:30

into the idea of sustainable fashion in

play15:32

their first year in the business in 2016

play15:34

they secured a 7 million dollar series a

play15:36

funding round they consumed cash

play15:39

voraciously and by 2020 they were

play15:41

already onto their series e-funding

play15:42

round where they raised another 100

play15:44

million dollars they use the Venture

play15:46

Capital money to spend exorbitant

play15:48

amounts of money on marketing every year

play15:50

they spend close to 40 percent of their

play15:52

gross profit on marketing this massive

play15:54

marketing expense has allowed them to

play15:56

grow their revenue when Alberts went

play15:58

public they tried to position themselves

play16:00

as a thought leaders among

play16:01

environmentally conscious consumers

play16:02

these consumers would flock to buy all

play16:05

birds shoes as a way to publicly show

play16:06

their environmentalism because of this

play16:09

the stock price surged 90 on the first

play16:11

day of trading giving the company a four

play16:13

billion valuation despite the fact that

play16:15

they had never turned a profit the

play16:17

problem is the more Alberts grew their

play16:19

revenue the more money they lost in

play16:21

every single year their operating losses

play16:24

have been greater than the prior year

play16:25

this indicates that their revenue growth

play16:27

was not the result of being a thought

play16:29

leader but instead the result of an

play16:31

unsustainably expensive marketing

play16:32

campaign throughout 2022 they were

play16:35

burning through their IPO money at an

play16:37

alarming rate by 2023 their cash

play16:39

position was getting uncomfortable and

play16:41

they pulled back on their marketing

play16:43

budget this caused their sales to drop

play16:45

by 11 in the first half of the Year by

play16:47

positioning themselves as a growth stock

play16:49

Alberts was able to achieve a premium

play16:51

valuation despite the losses but the

play16:54

knife Cuts both ways as their Revenue

play16:56

growth decelerated and then turned

play16:58

negative growth investors dumped the

play17:00

stock and the share prices declined by

play17:01

95 since the IPO

play17:04

despite the media hype very few

play17:06

consumers actually care about

play17:07

environmental sustainability when asked

play17:10

in a survey people might say they care

play17:12

about the environment because it costs

play17:13

nothing to take a box but very few

play17:15

people are willing to spend 100 on an

play17:18

ugly pair of shoes just because the

play17:19

brand claims to have a lower carbon

play17:21

footprint at the end of the day people

play17:23

want cheap clothes and massive

play17:25

quantities regardless of environmental

play17:27

impact and as long as that's what they

play17:29

want that's what the market will supply

play17:32

alright guys that wraps it up for this

play17:34

video what do you think about

play17:36

sustainable fashion let us know in the

play17:38

comments section below as always thank

play17:41

you so much for watching and we'll see

play17:42

you in the next one Wall Street

play17:43

Millennial signing out

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