Xbox One X Flickering Screen Diagnosis And Repair - TDP158 HDMI Retimer IC Replacement

Summary

In diesem Reparaturvideo wird eine Xbox One X behandelt, die ein flackerndes Display aufweist. Ursprünglich wurde vermutet, dass der HDMI-Port defekt sei, doch es zeigte sich, dass der HDMI-Retimer IC (TDP-158) das eigentliche Problem ist. Nach dem Austausch des Chips und der Wärmepasta sowie einer gründlichen Reinigung des Geräts funktionierte die Konsole wieder fehlerfrei und zeigte ein flackerfreies 4K-Display.

Takeaways

• 🎮 Eine Xbox One X wurde zur Reparatur eingesendet, da sie ein flackerndes Display hatte.
• 🔍 Ursprünglich wurde der HDMI-Port verdächtigt, aber es stellte sich heraus, dass der Re-Timer Chip das eigentliche Problem war.
• 🔧 Der Reparaturprozess begann mit einem Wiggeltest, der zeigte, dass das Display flackerte, wenn der HDMI-Kabel bewegt wurde.
• 📺 Der HDMI-Port wurde unter dem Mikroskop untersucht und als intakt befunden, was auf den Re-Timer Chip hindeutete.
• 🛠 Der TDP-158, der HDMI Re-Timer Chip, wurde als defekt identifiziert und musste ersetzt werden.
• 🔩 Der Austausch des Chips erfordert grundlegende Mikrolöt-Fähigkeiten.
• 🌡 Der Prozess des Lötens des neuen Chips erfordert sorgfältige Einstellungen des Heißluftreflow-Geräts und des Lötbuchs.
• 🧼 Nach dem Löten wurde das Board mit Isopropanol gereinigt und auf Korrekturen überprüft.
• 💻 Während des Tests außerhalb des Gehäuses wurde ein Problem mit der Stromversorgung festgestellt, das aber später behoben wurde.
• 📹 Nach der Reparatur zeigte das Gerät in 4K ohne Flackern an und die Wi-Fi-Verbindung funktionierte einwandfrei.
• 🔚 Die Reparatur war erfolgreich und das Gerät konnte in 4K ohne Probleme anzeigen, was das ursprüngliche Problem behoben hat.

Q & A

Was war das Hauptproblem mit der Xbox One X, die zur Reparatur gesendet wurde?

Das Hauptproblem war ein flackerndes Display.

War die Diagnose des Kunden korrekt?

Nein, der Kunde dachte ursprünglich, es handle sich um ein Problem mit dem HDMI-Port, aber das war nicht der Fall.

Was wurde als mögliche Ursache für das flackernde Display identifiziert?

Die mögliche Ursache war der HDMI-Retimer (HDMI-Erneuerungsschaltung).

Was passierte, als der Reparaturtechniker den HDMI-Kabel bewegt hat?

Das Display flackerte, was darauf hindeutet, dass es ein Problem mit dem Port oder der Verbindung sein könnte.

War der HDMI-Port beschädigt?

Der HDMI-Port sah leicht verbogen aus, aber es gab keine offensichtliche Beschädigung, die das flackernde Display verursachen würde.

Welche Auflösungen wurden bei der Diagnose des Problems festgestellt?

Die Konsole zeigte 720p und 1440p an, aber nicht 4k, was sie eigentlich tun sollte.

Was wurde getan, bevor die Reparatur des Retimer Chips begonnen wurde?

Der Reparaturtechniker räumte das Board aus, reinigte das IPU und ersetzte die Wärmepasta.

Wie wurde der defekte Retimer Chip erkannt?

Der Reparaturtechniker sah, dass der HDMI-Port in Ordnung war und schloss aufgrund seiner Erfahrung, dass der Retimer Chip defekt sein könnte.

Was wurde getan, um den neuen Retimer Chip auf das Board zu montieren?

Der Reparaturtechniker verwendete heiße Luft, um den Chip anzuschmelzen und eine Lötbirne, um die Löcher oder Pads zu löten.

War die Reparatur erfolgreich?

Ja, nachdem der Retimer Chip ersetzt wurde, zeigte die Konsole 4k ohne zu flackern an.

Welche zusätzlichen Tests wurden durchgeführt, nachdem die Reparatur abgeschlossen war?

Der Reparaturtechniker überprüfte, ob das Gerät aufging, ob es 4k unterstützte und ob das Wi-Fi funktionierte.

Outlines

00:00

🎮 Xbox One X修理视频介绍

本段介绍了修理视频的主题，即修理一台Xbox One X游戏机。该游戏机因显示屏幕闪烁而被送修。最初怀疑是HDMI端口的问题，但经过检查发现端口似乎没有问题，只是有些弯曲。修理者决定开机测试，发现屏幕在移动HDMI线缆时会闪烁，这可能表明端口受损。但有时又不闪烁，情况有些奇怪。修理者连接控制器后，发现游戏机只能以720p显示，而非预期的1080p或4K。经过测试，确定问题可能出在re-timer芯片上，而非HDMI端口。修理者决定更换re-timer芯片，这是一个对有基本微焊接技能的人来说相对简单的工作。

05:01

🔍 HDMI重定时器芯片检查

修理者详细检查了HDMI端口和相关的电子元件。他解释了被动EMI滤波器的作用，并指出这些通常不会导致显示闪烁。然后，他聚焦在TDP-158芯片上，这是负责HDMI和音频信号重定时的芯片。根据经验，修理者认为99%的情况下问题都出在这个重定时器芯片上。他决定更换这个芯片，而不是进行更深入的测试。他展示了HDMI端口在显微镜下的状态，确认端口本身没有损坏。

10:03

🛠️ 更换HDMI重定时器芯片

修理者开始更换HDMI重定时器芯片的过程。他首先使用热风枪将旧芯片从主板上移除，然后在芯片下方添加新的焊料。他解释了使用含铅焊料的好处，因为它的熔点较低，安装新芯片时更安全、更容易。修理者还展示了如何使用热风枪和焊接铁来安装新的TDP-158芯片，并强调了在安装过程中保持芯片正确对齐的重要性。

15:04

🧼 清理和测试修复效果

修理者使用异丙醇和牙刷清理主板上的焊剂残留，然后使用热风吹干。他检查了新安装的芯片，确保焊点正确无误。在发现一个焊桥后，他进行了修正。然后，他清理了散热器并更换了新的导热膏，以确保设备不会因过热而出现问题。修理者决定在机箱外组装设备进行测试，以节省时间。测试中，设备未能正常启动，这让他感到困惑，因为之前还能正常工作。

20:08

🔌 电源问题和最终测试

修理者怀疑可能是电源问题导致设备无法启动，并尝试使用自己的电源供应器，发现设备可以工作。他决定使用捕获卡进行测试，发现设备在1440p下工作，但没有4K信号。经过进一步的调整，设备最终成功以4K分辨率显示，且没有闪烁。修理者决定将设备重新组装，并在组装前进行最终测试，以确保一切正常。

25:24

🎉 修理完成和最终检查

修理者对设备进行了最终测试，包括检查Wi-Fi连接和4K显示功能，一切正常。他总结说，通过更换TDP-158芯片，成功修复了Xbox One X的显示闪烁问题。修理者还进行了摇晃测试，确认问题已经解决。最后，他感谢观众观看，并鼓励大家订阅频道以便及时获取更新。

Keywords

💡Xbox One X

Xbox One X ist eine Videospielkonsole von Microsoft, die im Video als das Hauptgerät zur Reparatur vorgestellt wird. Es handelt sich um eine leistungsstarke Konsole, die 4K-Gaming unterstützt. Im Video wird eine Konsole dieses Modells repariert, die ein Displayproblem hatte, was auf einen defekten HDMI-Port oder eine interne Komponente hindeuten könnte.

💡Flickering display

Ein flackerndes Display ist ein häufiges Problem, das durch verschiedene Ursachen wie Hardwarefehler oder Softwareprobleme verursacht werden kann. Im Kontext des Videos wird es als Hauptsymptom des Problems beschrieben, das die Xbox One X hat, und ist das Hauptanliegen des Reparaturprozesses.

💡HDMI port

Der HDMI-Port ist der Anschluss, über den die Konsole eine Verbindung zum Fernseher oder Monitor herstellt. Im Video wird zunächst vermutet, dass ein defekter HDMI-Port das flackernde Display verursacht, was jedoch später als Fehleinschätzung erachtet wird.

💡Re-timer

Ein Re-timer ist eine spezielle elektronische Komponente, die zur Synchronisation von Datenübertragungen zwischen Geräten dient. Im Video wird der Re-timer als wahrscheinliche Ursache für das Displayproblem identifiziert und muss ersetzt werden, um das Problem zu beheben.

💡Micro soldering

Mikrosoldern ist eine feinmotorische Tätigkeit, die im Bereich der elektronischen Reparaturen verwendet wird. Im Video wird erwähnt, dass das Ersetzen des Re-timers für jemanden mit Mikrosolderfähigkeiten eine recht einfache Aufgabe ist.

💡Thermal paste

Thermalpaste ist ein Material, das verwendet wird, um die Wärme zwischen elektronischen Komponenten und Kühlern zu leiten. Im Video wird die Wärmepasta des Geräts ersetzt, um sicherzustellen, dass keine Überhitzung auftritt, nachdem der Re-timer ersetzt wurde.

💡HDMI retimer chip

Der HDMI-Retimer-Chip, auch als TDP-158 bezeichnet, ist eine spezielle Komponente, die im Video ersetzt wird. Er ist für die Übertragung von HDMI- und Audiosignalen verantwortlich und muss in diesem Fall ersetzt werden, um das Displayproblem zu beheben.

💡Flux

Flux ist ein Chemikalien, der verwendet wird, um die Lötierung von Metallen zu erleichtern. Im Video wird Flux verwendet, um die Lötstelle vorzubereiten, bevor der neue Re-timer-Chip installiert wird.

💡Capture card

Eine Capture-Karte ist ein Gerät, das verwendet wird, um Signale von einem Display aufzuzeichnen oder zu übertragen. Im Video wird eine Capture-Karte genutzt, um das Display der Xbox One X zu überwachen und zu diagnostizieren.

💡4K resolution

4K-Auflösung bezieht sich auf eine Bildauflösung von 3840 x 2160 Pixeln, die im Video als erwünschte Auflösung für die Xbox One X gilt. Das Problem im Video war, dass die Konsole nicht in 4K auflösung fehlerfrei arbeiten konnte, was durch die Reparatur des Re-timers gelöst wurde.

Highlights

The console was sent in due to a flickering display, initially believed to be an HDMI port issue.

Upon inspection, the HDMI port appears fine despite being slightly bent, leading to a possible misdiagnosis.

The flickering display is likely caused by the HDMI retimer chip, not the port itself.

After wiggling the HDMI cable, it becomes clear that the port is loose, but the issue is intermittent.

The video signal is only picking up in 1440p, indicating further issues as the console should support 4K.

After disassembly, the board was cleaned and the thermal paste was prepped for replacement.

The HDMI retimer chip (TDP-158) is identified as the likely cause, with no need to diagnose further.

The replacement of the HDMI retimer chip is a straightforward task for those with basic micro-soldering skills.

The old chip was removed and new leaded solder was applied for easier installation of the new retimer chip.

Upon replacing the HDMI retimer chip, the console powers on and passes the wiggle test, indicating stability.

The console initially fails to turn on, leading to testing with a separate power supply, which works fine.

After the chip replacement, the display is now working in 1440p and 4K without flickering.

The console was tested outside the case to save time in case further adjustments were needed.

Final checks include a Wi-Fi connection test, which passes without issue.

The console is now fully functioning in 4K without flickering, successfully repaired by replacing the HDMI retimer chip.

Transcripts

right hello there ladies and gents

welcome to another repair video

today we're going to be working on this

xbox one x which has been sent in

this particular console has been sent in

because it has a

flickering display so it was originally

sent in for a hdmi port

however upon further inspection it turns

out that there's absolutely nothing

wrong with the port

according to what i can see with the

eyes it does look

a little bit bent like it's been knocked

in the past but the complaint is that it

flickers on and off and the customer

said

that he thought it was a hdmi port but

obviously that's a bit of a misdiagnosis

and it's actually

likely going to be the re-timer so let's

do what we always do let's turn it on

let's see what's happening and then

we'll see if we can get this thing fixed

okay and let's switch over to the

capture card on the computer

and we'll see if it detects

and it does look like it is detecting

okay i'm going to give it a wiggle test

see if anything happens when i

wiggle the screen

okay so it does appear to flicker when

i'm moving the hdmi cable so that could

be indication

of a damaged port

however it's not every time so it's a

little bit strange

well it's okay so now for some reason

it's just not happening

which is very weird indeed so it could

indeed be just a flickering display

however the port is a little bit loose

as well

right so i'll just connect up a

controller

uh let's see what kind of display we're

getting on the computer

okay we're in 720p so it's not picking

up 1080

uh there we go so there's the issue

right there

so we're only picking up in 1440p which

it should be picking up in

4k and that is not

working at all okay

so that's going to need a retimer

right okay so as soon as i flipped over

to 4k

we started getting issues with the

display so that's definitely going to be

in need of a bit of tlc so

let's see what we can do with it shall

we

so i'll skip through the disassembly

process and when i've got the board out

i'll resume the video

[Music]

so

right okay so here we are then with the

board out of the chassis

and i'm just going to give the ipu a bit

of a clean because that's going to be

cleaned before we put it back together

anyway

so we might as well do that now and then

before we put it back together we can

replace the thermal paste

i'm not gonna bother doing any kind of

diagnosis on this because the only thing

it could possibly be

is gonna be the hdmi retimer chip

or the protection i see

just here on the on the left hand side

now if it's that ic then we can't change

it because we can't buy them

and i don't have any donor boards to

take one off and be ball

but usually it's just the retimer which

needs replacing which is

a fairly straightforward job to do for

anyone with basic

micro soldiering skills

okay that will do it for now let's go

into the microscope and we'll have a

look at this re-timer shall we

all right okay so looking under the

microscope then we've got the hdmi port

just here

and then we've got if we follow the line

down

we've got the emi filters these emi

filters

are passive emi filters so underneath

these filters the trace is actually

complete from one side to the other side

this wouldn't cause

a flickering display or not usually at

least

but if we come up come along down at the

bottom we can see we've got the

tdp-158 which is the hdmi and

colder ic and this hdmi

encoder oc is responsible for taking the

hdmi and audio signals or the display

and audio signals

and basically re-timing them or moxing

them

and sending them out to the hdmi port

itself

i'm going to say based on experience 99

of the time it's going to be down to the

re-timer cheap

so i'm going to get this replaced as a

first instance i'm not going to bother

doing any more testing i can clearly see

that the hdmi port is good

i can clearly see that the solder that

the solder on those are fine

and if i look inside the port as well

that looks absolutely fine but i'll show

you that under the scope as well

and as you can see from that port there

that does look absolutely fine

so i can't see any kind of loose pins or

any damage to the port

so i'm going to say that most likely

it's gonna be the re-timer chip so i'm

gonna get that changed now

so here is the re-timer chip this is

the u-29 it's a tdp-158

that's the hdmi timer chip for the xbox

one x

the retirement chip for the xbox one s

is 75 dp

159 and they are completely different

chips

so don't get those mixed up so what i'm

going to do

is i'm going to take the old trip off

i'll replace the solder that's

underneath and then i'll get a new chip

installed

so i'm going to set my hot air to 480

degrees celsius

and 60 airflow that should give me

enough heat

to transfer through to the board to get

this chip removed

these boards are really thick boards

there's about 12 layers on these

and they take quite a lot of heat to get

the cheap removed especially on the one

x

so

so

um there's the old chip removed

so let's pop a bit of flux there and

we'll get the new solder into

the new solder on there

so i'm going to replace the solder with

leaded solder and that's going to be a

lower melting temperature it's going to

make it a lot safer and a lot easier for

us to install the new chip

so i'll get the other place with lady

sold out just by mixing the old stuff

and that'll be absolutely fine so my

soldering iron i use 450 degrees celsius

and i use a ts 100 so it's a fairly

cheap

soldering iron especially considering

the capabilities it's got

[Music]

so

so

okay and i'm going to leave that blob of

solder in the middle number one so as

we make sure we've got enough under

there to transfer heat away from the

chip and

number two it's going to allow us to

align the chip

pretty much perfectly without even

trying

okay so there's a brand new hdmi encoder

i see there or the timer chip

v driver whatever you would like to call

it it's known by different names

bought it is the hdmi retimer ic

for the xbox one x so this is the tdp

158 like i said

and the 75 dp 159 would probably display

your least but it just

would not give you true 4k and you might

experience issues

so i'm going to knock my hot air down to

440

and i'm going to knock on airflow down

to 14

to get this chip installed and what i'm

going to do is i'm going to put some

heat into the board before i attempt to

install the chip

that way prevents heat from hitting the

chip as much

um allows us to install it a little bit

safer

so i'm going to wait for the middle pad

to fully molten

so

okay so i'm just going to clear up that

excess solder that's pushed

out from under the chip

that's perfectly normal to get excess

solder under the chip

so we just dab it with the soldering

iron that's going to pick up the solder

off the

pads

okay and you'll see that because those

pads are perfectly lined up with the

chip

it makes it so much easier just to

solder the actual

pins themselves or the pads themselves

and now i'm going to go ahead and just

re-solder it and float into place

properly

press and hold

perfect and then we'll just clean up

again

okay just time to clean up and then

we'll inspect it make sure it's soldered

correctly and then we can go ahead and

get it tested

so i'm gonna use ninety nine point nine

percent i support alcohol

and i'm just gonna scrub it using a

toothbrush just to clean off any of the

flux residue that's on the board

and then we're good to go

so i'm going to give it a really nice

clean

and then i'm going to dry it off using a

bit of warm air

perfect okay so let's inspect the chip

on an angle make sure it's solder

correctly

first of all let's tilt it on an angle

and make sure that pin number one

is in the correct location so let's just

dry off

the top of the chip

and we do have a solder bridge there

that we've just noticed

the chip is in the correct location

though

according to the dot in the bottom

corner that keeps in the correct

location so

i'll just touch up the two solder joints

where we've got a bridge

and then i can inspect it so i couldn't

see that when

i had the flux on the board

but that's fine we can just touch up and

there we go

so let's pop it on an angle and we'll

zoom right the way in

and that looked perfect

same for that side that looks absolutely

fine

on that side

and that side as well looks fine so

should be good to go there

right okay so let's go ahead

and just clean off the heatsink let's

just get rid of the

dust off there and also the old thermal

paste as well

just so we can prep it to get new

thermal paste on

so i'm just going to give it a brush

down with a paintbrush as i always do

and then i'll clean off the thermal

paste

we never want to put these back together

without replacing the thermal paste

even if it's only a few weeks old

thermal paste isn't that expensive

and it saves them being returned for

overheating issues under warranty

because

it wouldn't have been overheating before

so

it shouldn't be overheating when it goes

back

okay and that's ready for some fresh

thermal paste

so i'm going to use some mx4

and add the perfect amount

and let's pop on the heatsink

right okay so i'm going to assemble this

outside the case just for testing

but we should be good to go on this so

i'm going to get the

hard drive pop that in place the reason

i'm doing it outside the case is because

if i

sit there and screw everything back in

and then it doesn't work

then we've got to unscrew everything

again so we might as well just test it

as it is

right outside the case and that just

saves us a little bit of time when we do

have to do more work to it

most of the time this what i've done to

it right now is gonna

fix the issue but i would much rather

test it now

before i put it back together and then i

can give it a good clean out

and get it back to the customer

oh okay let's get the front panel

and i'm not gonna bother with the wi-fi

card or anything like that i can do a

full test

later on before i take it back i just

want to know that it's working

before i go any further so let's pop in

let's get the

original hdmi lead that we used which is

what i'm using for my microscope

i do have an elgato capture card but

that's playing up at the moment i can't

seem to get it to

accept an input source from a ps4 so

kind of not using it right now

i'm just waiting on some parts to come

for that

and

that's a little bit strange it's not

turning on

that's very strange

right that's

not normal at all should be turning on

hmm

i could have a bad retirement chip but

it is brand new

right

right i'm going to try my own power

supply so this is a non good

right okay so this could have a faulty

power supply

so that's working with my power supply

but it's not working with the customers

and it was earlier

but nothing's happened to the power

supply

i know it's working what

right was that that was a bit weird

unless there was just a problem with the

cable itself or it shouldn't be

let's go to capture card let's see if we

have a display

and we do

well so i'm going to pop the fan on

because we need that for

keeping the console cool

and i don't notice any flickering

anymore

so it should

be fixed

so i'm going to check the display and

just see

what display we're in so let's have a

look what resolution we're going right

now

so tv in display and 1440p

not sure why he's not picking up 1080p

at 4k

but that said it is working in 1080 and

1440 where it wasn't before

so that should work ah there we go

uh okay so one let me uh

okay so it's not picking up 4k but that

could just be the capture card

that's fine uh it's picking up 1440p

so it should be okay on

4k

right so let's low auto detect

uh no i didn't want that i wanted to go

back

and now it might work

perfect

excellent so we've now got 4k and it's

not

flickering at all so that is absolutely

perfect

so what i'm going to do i'm going to get

this back together i'm going to put it

back in the case

and i'm going to call this job done so

happy days

okay so what i'm going to do then is i'm

just going to finish cleaning

the fan and the chasse things like that

and i'll get it all back together

and then i'll make sure that it's still

going to turn on afterwards because what

happened with the power supply then was

a little bit strange

it could have just been a bad connection

on my end i might need to change

my power cable i've had that one for

quite a while now and i do use it for

every console so

or every console that requires it which

is 90

of them so what i'll do i'll probably

end up changing that cable at some point

in the near future

um hopefully there's nothing wrong with

the customer's power supply

so

so

[Music]

okay that is pretty much that so fingers

crossed

we are good to go now so let's just plug

it in

and we'll give you another test make

sure it's all working

and should be good to go

and it turns on so must have just been

an intermediate problem

we'll give it another test before i take

it back i've got another console of this

customer to work on before i do that

anyway

so i will give it another final test

before i actually take you back to the

customer

just to make sure he still turns on

let's go capture card um we should be

picking up the display

any moment now there we go

perfect let's take a

xbox disc in this case we're going to be

fifa

17.

and it already has a d skin perfect so

as me testing

so forza horizon 4 is in there

uh we're on to the dashboard let's pop

forza horizon 4 back in there

just make sure it loads up

there we go perfect right so

i'm assuming wi-fi is going to work but

i'm going to check it anyway

so let's go to the settings

uh let's go for network settings

just make sure he picks up my wi-fi card

or my uh

wi-fi router like that

i'm not going to connect because it's

asking me to update but yes it is

connecting to it is picking up the wi-fi

so that's absolutely fine

i don't really need to test it make sure

it connects if it picks it up it's going

to connect to it

so we're still in 4k as you can see it

supports

4k on the capture card which is perfect

so

this is now displaying in 4k without

flickering which is absolutely beautiful

considering it was

flickering in 1440p before we change the

v-timer

so just to summarize then this console

was sent in because it had a flickering

display

and i'm just going to double check

actually before i finish

up and yep wiggle test absolutely fine

so i'm wiggling that right now and it's

not

doing anything so the wiggle test is

absolutely fine so

this console was sent in for a

flickering display the customer

initially thought it was a hdmi port

itself

but in actual fact it was the tdp-158

which is the

hdmi retime of oc for the xbox one x

and sometimes when that goes bad it can

flicker on and off because

it's either not receiving enough power

or because something's sorted out to

ground on a temporary basis or

something like that but nonetheless by

replacing the tdp 158 we've managed to

fix this console and get it to display

properly in 4k without any issues

but that's going to be for this video if

you have any comments or questions leave

them down in the comment section down

below

if you want to see more repair videos

where i try and fix mainly consoles but

sometimes other things too

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well that's going to be for this video

thank you very much for watching and

until next time

see you later bye for now