Toyota 2JZ Engine Build - Full Start to Finish
Summary
TLDRIn this video, Stephan Papadakis from Papadakis Racing walks viewers through the meticulous assembly of a legendary 2JZ engine. The script details the process of preparing the engine block, measuring pistons, checking clearances, and installing components with precision. It also covers painting the block, assembling the pistons and rods, and installing the crankshaft with care. The video is a comprehensive guide for those interested in engine building, showcasing the importance of attention to detail and the correct torque specifications for each part.
Takeaways
- 🔧 The script describes an engine assembly process for a 2JZ engine at Papadakis racing.
- 🏗️ The engine block has been modified with a bore size of 86.25mm and has been decked and hot-tanked for cleaning.
- 📏活塞测量是重要的步骤,以确保活塞和缸壁之间有正确的间隙。
- 🛠️活塞销是自由浮动的,可以在活塞和连杆上旋转,有助于减少磨损。
- 🔩活塞和连杆的组装需要使用组装润滑剂,并确保活塞环间隙正确。
- 🎨发动机组装过程中包括对发动机块进行涂漆,以防止生锈并提供保护。
- 🔄活塞环的安装需要精确的间隙调整,以确保正确的密封和发动机性能。
- ⚙️曲轴和轴承的安装需要精确的扭矩,以确保发动机的稳定性和耐用性。
- 🚫在安装气缸头之前,需要特别注意不要在安装了头螺栓的情况下将垫圈放在头上。
- ⚙️气缸头螺栓需要按照特定的扭矩规格进行拧紧,以确保气缸头的正确密封。
- 📈该脚本还提到了对气缸头进行端口加工以改善气流,以及使用CNC机器进行阀门切割以提高精度。
Q & A
What is the purpose of the project described in the script?
-The purpose of the project is to assemble a legendary hood with a 2JZ engine for a car at Papadakis racing shop.
What modifications have been made to the engine block?
-The engine block has been bored out to 86.25 millimeters, decked (resurfaced the top), and hot tanked (cleaned the outside).
Why is the block being painted after the initial assembly?
-The block is being painted to prevent rust after the hot tanking process removed the original paint.
How are the pistons being measured in the script?
-The pistons are being measured to ensure they have the proper size and wall clearance in relation to the cylinder bores.
What is the function of the free-floating pins mentioned in the script?
-Free-floating pins allow the connecting pin to rotate on both the piston and the connecting rod, which helps reduce wear.
Why are the pistons coated on the top and sides?
-The coating on the top helps with temperature control, while the coating on the sides helps reduce cylinder wear.
What is the purpose of the ring gap adjustments described in the script?
-The ring gaps are adjusted to ensure a very specific gap between the rings, which is crucial for proper sealing and engine performance.
Why are the thrust bearings important when installing the crankshaft?
-Thrust bearings are important because they handle the force when the clutch is engaged, preventing damage to the crankshaft.
What is the significance of the oil squirters installed in the engine?
-Oil squirters help cool the pistons and lubricate the piston pin and cylinder walls, which is essential for engine longevity.
How is the cylinder head prepared in this script?
-The cylinder head is hot tanked, ported (pocket port), and resurfaced to ensure optimal airflow and readiness for installation.
What is the role of the valve spring compressor used in the script?
-The valve spring compressor is used to compress the valve spring assembly, allowing for the installation of the keepers and valve spring retainer.
Outlines
🔧 Engine Assembly Preparation
The script describes the process of assembling a legendary hood with a 2JZ engine at Papadakis Racing. The engine is an inline six, bored out to 86.25mm and decked for resurfacing. It's been hot-tanked to clean it, resulting in some rust which will be painted over later. The script details measuring pistons for clearance checks, installing pistons onto rods with assembly lube, and checking rod and main bearing clearances. The活塞s are coated to reduce temperature and cylinder wear. The block is painted black after taping off areas not to be painted.
🛠 Installing Pistons and Rings
This section covers the installation of piston rings, ensuring the correct gap sizes by using a feeler gauge. The rings are ground if necessary and installed with specific orientation markers. The活塞s and rods are then installed into the engine block with attention to ring alignment and proper seating. Oil squirters and thrust bearings are also installed, with the crankshaft being carefully placed into position. The script emphasizes the importance of checking for smooth rotation and correct installation to avoid engine issues.
🏎️ Cylinder Head and Valve Train Assembly
The script explains the preparation of the cylinder head by Port Flow, including hot-tank cleaning, pocket porting, and resurfacing. A CNC valve cutting machine is used for precise valve seat cuts. The valve train components such as dual valve springs, titanium retainers, and CNC keepers are assembled with valve seals to prevent oil leakage. The cylinder head is aligned using dowels, and a factory Toyota MLS head gasket is installed. Camshafts are installed with attention to orientation, and cam caps are torqued carefully to avoid damaging the cams. The oil pump, front and rear main seals, and upper oil pan are also installed with silicone for sealing.
🔩 Final Assembly and Cam Timing
This part of the script details the installation of the oil level sensor, exhaust and intake cam gears, and the variable cam timing system. The tensioner pulley and timing belt are installed with precise alignment. The script also covers the installation of valve covers, knock sensors, cam sync sensor, and the crank damper. Special care is taken with the crank pulley installation to avoid damaging the threads inside the crank. The video concludes with a call to subscribe for more content.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Papadakis Racing
💡2JZ engine
💡Bored out
💡Decking
💡Hot tanking
💡Pistons
💡Rod bearing clearances
💡Assembly Lube
💡Free-floating pins
💡Ring gap
💡Crankshaft
💡Torque
Highlights
Introduction to assembling a legendary hood with a 2JZ engine.
The engine block has been bored out to 86.25mm, larger than factory specifications.
The block has been decked and hot tanked for cleaning.
Plans to paint the block to prevent rust.
Measuring pistons for proper fit and clearance.
Use of assembly lube for piston and rod installation.
Free-floating pins allow rotation on the piston and rod.
Coating on pistons aids in temperature control and reduces cylinder wear.
Proper installation of pistons on rods is crucial.
Checking and adjusting ring gaps for optimal performance.
Installing rings on pistons with specific installation techniques for different materials.
Marking pistons for correct installation direction in the block.
Installing crankshaft with attention to main bearing clearances.
Use of oil squirters for cooling and lubrication.
Installation of thrust bearings for clutch disengagement.
Torque specifications for main cap bearings and their importance.
Piston installation with attention to ring gap alignment.
Cylinder head work done by Port Flow, including pocket porting.
CNC valve cutting machine used for precise valve seat cuts.
Installing valve train components with precision and care.
Use of valve spring compressor for safe installation.
Installing dowels to align the cylinder head with the block.
Use of factory Toyota MLS head gasket for reliability.
Torque sequence for head studs to ensure even pressure.
Camshaft installation with attention to orientation and torque.
Oil pump installation and its role in engine lubrication.
Upper oil pan installation with silicone for sealing.
Oil strainer and level sensor installation for oil management.
Cam gear installation with specific torque and alignment.
Variable cam timing system explanation and its benefits for drifting.
Installation of valve covers with wrinkle red powder coating.
Use of silicone to prevent oil leaks at cam caps.
Installation of crank damper with anti-seize for smooth operation.
Final torque on crank pulley and completion of engine assembly.
Transcripts
hey I'm Stephan Papadakis we're here at
Papadakis racing today we're gonna
assemble the legendary hood a 2jz engine
it's an inline six this is for a project
that we're doing here at the shop if you
want to see the disassembly of this
engine or some of the main bearing
clearances checks that we did I'll link
to the video below in the description so
let's get started and get this thing
together so here's the block so it's
been bored out to eighty six point two
five millimeters put two five
millimetres larger than factory it's
been decked which means they resurfaced
the top of it and it's been hot tanks so
they put in this tank and it cleans all
of the dirt and everything off of the
outside of it but it also takes the
original paint off of it so you can see
it's a little bit rusty we're gonna
paint it a little bit later in the video
so here we are we're measuring the
Pistons so now what I'm doing is I'm I'm
double-checking the machine shop in
order to do that I've got to measure
each one of the Pistons make sure
they're all what they're supposed to be
then measure all of the bores and make
sure that we have the proper piston of
wall clearance and that's the clearance
in between the piston and the cylinder
wall also gonna check all of the rod
bearing and main bearing clearances time
to install the Pistons onto the rods so
use this assembly Lube and get
everything all lubricated these are what
they call free-floating pins these
little clips hold them in you install it
on the piston and the rod and the pin is
actually able to rotate both on the
piston and the rod what's cool about
these jé Pistons is they're both coated
on the top and the sides the coating on
the top helps with temperature and the
one on the side on the skirts helps with
cylinder wear so you have to make sure
that the piston is installed on the rod
properly so what I'm doing is I'm
looking at where the valve reliefs are
on the top of the piston the intake
valve release are a little bit larger
than exhaust ones now that everything is
blueprinted and we know that the block
is good ready to be assembled I'm gonna
go and paint it so there's tape off all
the parts that I don't want painted and
get out there with some engine enamel
we're gonna stick with normal black this
time now it's time to make sure all the
gaps in the Rings are correct what
happens is with a slight bore diameter
change it can change the gap in the ring
and we want a very specific gap so what
I'll do is put the ring into the
cylinder square it up in the cylinder by
just putting a piston in it and then use
a feeler gauge to see if the gap is the
correct width so these are a little bit
narrow so I'm gonna put them in the ring
grinder and actually grind at the end of
the ring so when it grinds the end of
the wing it's taking some of the
material off and when you do that you
just have to make sure that you don't
have any burrs or anything
on the edges that could potentially
scrape the cylinder wall or not allowed
the ring to seat properly once the Rings
are all gapped it's time to install them
onto the Pistons the first one is the
oil spring so that is like a spring that
pushes out the oil rings the next is the
second ring this one is usually a cast
material that's a little bit more
brittle so I'll install that a little
bit differently by expanding it instead
of twisting it the cast rings don't like
to be twisted and could actually crack
the top ring can be twisted on there's
also little letters on these specific
rings that show which is up these have a
little n on them so I'll go ahead and
twist that on and then do it to the rest
of the other six distance I also like to
number all of my pistons and which
direction they're gonna be installed
into the block I really like to double
and triple check everything in an engine
now the Pistons of rods are ready to go
in so I'm gonna flip the engine over and
put the crankshaft in we've already
checked all of the main bearing
clearances and make sure everything's
super clean and we'll go ahead and
install all the bearings next before I
put the crankshaft in we're gonna put
the oil squirters in pretty
straightforward they just bolt right in
these are really good because they help
to cool the piston they also lubricate
the piston pin and the cylinder walls
these are called the thrust bearings
basically when you push in your clutch
to disengage it it pushes up on this
bearing right here the thrust bearings
I'm actually gonna lube both sides of it
that way it's really tacky and sticks
into the block and doesn't want to fall
out when I go to put the crankshaft in
so very carefully go ahead and set the
crankshaft in this is just a factory 2jz
crankshaft they're forged they're really
good they're quite strong in very common
people will make a thousand horsepower
when these stock cranks go ahead and put
assembly Lube on all over the main cap
bearings and these are all numbered one
through seven and they also have an
arrow for which was forward on the
engine forward on the engine is where
the pulley is and all the drive belts so
all of the arrows point towards the
crankshaft snout and where all the
pulleys would go so go ahead and SAP all
those in with the gun and then I'm gonna
torque them up to the 33 foot-pounds
that the factory recommends and then
they also say do an additional 90
degrees so what I'll do is draw a line
at 12 o'clock and I'll turn everything
90 degrees basically to three o'clock
and that'll get us right into spec and
then once everything's bolted in I like
to make sure that everything turns
freely and there's no issues there so
now it's time to install the Pistons the
cylinder walls are all nice and clean at
first and then we're gonna put the
piston ring loop on him I'm also gonna
put some of this piston ring lube on the
skirts of the Pistons and the Rings next
I'm going to align all
of the piston rings because the gaps
need to go in specific angles and again
this is gonna vary depending on the
engine manufacturer and even the engine
builder on how they like to do it I
always like to hold the piston with the
exhaust valves pointing towards me and
that way it can be consistent on each
one of the Pistons when I align the
Rings so this is the piston installation
tool and I'm also gonna lubricate that
as well because the Rings have to slide
down it I'll double check the ring
lineman again and now we're ready to put
it in the crankshaft is at bottom dead
center which means the crankshaft pin or
journal is all the way at the bottom
that gives you the most room to make
sure you don't push the rod into the
main journal so these rods are from BC
and it's their standard h-beam rod which
is gonna work great for our application
and they had them in stock which is
great because this is such a short time
between the time that we got the engine
to the build we really wanted to use
parts that were in stock and not have to
custom order so we'll go ahead and
install the rest of the Pistons and
we'll be done with this part of it so
once I saw the piston they should be
pretty consistent as far as the tension
it takes to push them down if for some
reason they're a little bit different
that could be a sign of an issue and
then also make sure that you look at the
cylinder walls and make sure there's no
scoring or anything that happened on the
installation because that'll show that
maybe you had an issue with your ring
gap or something like that so now turn
the crankshaft and make sure everything
spins smoothly next is time for the
cylinder head the cylinder head was done
by our buddy tom at Port flow he took
the dirty head hot tanked it cleaned it
way up he did what they call like a
pocket port or like a bowl port and it's
the area where the valve seat meets the
casting in the head and a lot of time
the factories don't do a very good job
of matching it and having a good flow in
that section and doing a full port in
Polish I don't believe it's necessary on
these heads for the power levels that
we're gonna be making this is what they
call a cnc valve cutting machine you can
actually program and how you want the
valve seat cut and then it goes in there
and cuts it all perfect tom then
resurfaced the cylinder head and got it
all ready for installation here's a
quick picture of you can see the pocket
port and you can see where the valve
seat meets the inside casting is nice
and smooth and that's where he ported it
here's all of our super tech stuff so
this is the valve train that we're gonna
install into the cylinder head dual
valve springs titanium retainers CNC
keepers in canal exhaust valves and
stainless steel intakes Tom will go
ahead and put some grease on the valves
when he installs them will then install
the spring base the locator the locator
keeps the spring centered within the
spring locator key
the Spring Center the dual valve spring
is then installed and down in there you
can even see the valve seal so the valve
stem seal is what stops the oil in the
cylinder head from going down the shaft
of the valve the stem of the valve and
into the cylinders or into the port this
is what they call a valve spring
compressor so the valve spring
compressor reaches around it pushes on
the bottom of the valve and the top of
the valve spring retainer once it
compresses it you can go ahead and put
the keepers on once the keepers are both
installed you can remove the spring
compressor and now now the valve spring
and everything is all installed now
we're gonna install the dowels into the
block this is what aligns the cylinder
head on to the block and keeps the
gasket and everything in line I don't
like to hammer directly onto the dowel
cuz it can bend it so I made this little
tool out of just just a bolt in a nut
that stays on the dowel and then I can
hammer the bolt that way it doesn't
mushroom the dowel pin at all so here's
the head gasket it's actually a factory
Toyota MLS casket it's called a
multi-layer steel and these are really
good gaskets from the factory so we're
gonna go ahead and just get a brand new
one and use it in this build next we
gonna put the cylinder head on and one
of the things that's funky about
assembling these two J engines is you
actually can't put these washers on the
head with the head studs installed so
you have to put the washers in first
then you put the head studs on then you
can put the nuts and everything in so
I've pre-lubricated the washers and the
head studs and then once we put the nuts
on we're ready to tighten and get our
big torque wrench because we have to
torque this up to 85 foot pounds and
I'll do in a couple of stages here so
I'll start by doing 30 foot-pounds then
go up to 60 then 85 foot-pounds
these are BC to 64 degree cams and it's
relatively mild cam and for this drift
car this is probably the best one for it
little pro tip here if you grease the
inside of your cam seals front and
remain seals they tend to seal up and
last a little bit longer in my
experience I'll then put all the cam
caps on and install the camp seals
there's a little bit of silicone you see
there that goes under that cam cap I'll
just zap these bolts in a little bit you
get to be super careful you install the
cam caps because if you don't have the
cams and the right orientation and you
start tightening the cam caps in the
wrong order you can actually break a cam
so have to be really careful and follow
the instructions on the order to put the
cam caps in then we'll go ahead and
torque all of the cam caps now I've got
a cams installed
nice gonna put the oil pump on there's
just some silicone and a couple of
o-rings I've already changed the front
main seal this is our new rear main seal
there's some silicone on that as well
op the reach in which kind of a pain and
get these six bolts next we're gonna put
on the upper oil pan so this one's
really cool because it ties in the whole
block and it's actually a bit of a
stiffener for it as well
there's no gaskets down here just
silicone so put the silicone in zap in
all the bolts and then torque it down to
Toyota's recommendation so what they
call an oil baffle and it helps to
separate the spinning crankshaft from
the oil that's in the pan this is the
oil strainer or the oil pickup this is
where the oil gets picked up from inside
the oil pan and sucked through and into
the oil pump so now you can see the
stuff that goes on inside of your oil
pan so if you ever have an oil pan that
you hit something like something on the
road and it dent it up it can hit the
bottom of this oil strainer and that's
how you can have a problem with your
engine after because strainer can't
actually pick up the oil from the pan
anymore this is the oil level sensor
it's got a little float there and it
just throws a warning light on if the
oil level gets too low this is where I
tend to be a lot more generous with the
silicone is on the the steel pans I'm
gonna make sure that these suckers don't
leak so I'll put a little bit extra
silicone and then we'll put all the
bolts in and then torque it and you'll
see I'm using the torque wrench a lot
here and the reason is it's so easy to
over tighten something even after years
of experience I believe that using the
torque wrench doesn't take that much
more time and you can get everything
torqued perfect and once it's worked
perfect then you could be confident that
it's not gonna fall out we'll go ahead
and put the exhaust cam gear on torque
that on and this is the intake cam gear
this is where the variable cam timing
works and inside of that gear there's
some mechanics that depending on the
amount of oil pressure from the solenoid
it'll actually adjust the cam timing on
the intake we really do want this they
can help as much as like 60 or 80
foot-pounds of torque at low rpm and for
a drifting car where you can be at low
rpm a lot the vvt-i engines are quite
good for that application if you're
doing drag racing or something where
you're really spending all your time
over five or six thousand rpm where the
vvt-i is pretty much back to zero it's
not gonna be much of a benefit if any a
little bit of blue loctite will install
the tensioner pulley again torquing it
on and now we're gonna install the
timing belt and the timing belt has a
very specific alignment so on the lower
gear there's an alignment mark on the
gear and then
also on each one of the cam gears so
we'll line each one of those and then we
can put the timing belt on last we're
gonna put the timing tensioner in next
we install the timing belt tensioner
what it does is actually puts tension on
the timing belt and before I pull the
pin and actually put tension on the belt
I'm gonna turn it to revolutions and
make sure that everything is still lined
up properly and once I know it's all
lined up perfect I'll pull the pin and
allow the tensioner to tension the belt
I'll then turn it again and triple check
that the belt is aligned properly once I
know it's all perfect we're gonna move
on to the next step so this is the
oiling for the variable cam this pulls
oil from the block down there and it
goes up into that cam cap and from the
cam cap it goes with the variable cam
solenoid the way the variable cam works
is the computer sends out power to this
little solenoid which then duty cycles a
certain amount of oil into that cam gear
and depending on that duty cycle it can
actually change the location of that cam
gear relative to the cam and by doing so
it can change the location of the cam
relative to the crankshaft essentially
changing the cam timing next we'll put
on the valve covers I've had these
powder coated wrinkle read and for years
I thought it was originated by Honda on
the type our engines and then recently
I've realized that that's absolutely not
the case
Ferraris been doing wrinkle read valve
covers since the 50s and it turns out
that Testarossa actually means redhead
and Ferrari has wrinkled red valve
covers for 50 60 years now and
everybody's been I think biting them so
I've added a little bit of silicone on
the corners of the cam caps and this is
an area where the oil can often leak so
a little bit of silicone there can make
sure that you don't have a leak in that
section you can also see where we added
the aan fittings to the valve covers for
the crankcase breathing system we're
actually going to utilize both of the
knock sensors on the engine and this is
another area yet to watch out for
so I've masked off that area when I
painted the block because I want to make
sure that the knock sensor is directly
on the actual metal block and making
sure that we torque it because depending
on the torque the knock sensor will
actually output a different strength
signal next we've got the cam sync
sensor so this sensor tells the computer
where that intake cam is relation to the
crankshaft so now we're putting the
timing covers on it's a bit hacked up to
fit the different water port that we've
got on here this car instead of having
normal mechanical driven water pump it's
got an electric water pump and it's got
- 20 fittings for both over the lines
here's the crank damper so I'll go ahead
and put some anti-seize on the inside of
the crank pulley and then install it on
to the crank chef snout and it didn't
quite just push on that easy and look
you can use the pulley bolt to push on
your crank pulley but only if it's
really easy to go on like this is super
easy and didn't have much resistance at
all but if you do have some resistance
you'll want to use a specific
installation tool because if you put too
much force on this pulley bolt you can
mess up the threads inside the crank and
you're gonna have a real bad day if you
mess up the threads the torque on this
pulley ball is actually 239 foot-pounds
it's really crazy high it pretty much
maxes out the torque wrench in order to
get that much torque I've got to lock
the crank from turning so what I've done
is I've put a couple of flywheel bolts
into the back of the crank shaft and
wedged a pry bar in there so the crank
shaft can't turn so thanks for watching
I had a lot of fun building the 2jz if
you want to see more of this content
please consider subscribing thank you
Browse More Related Video
5.0 / 5 (0 votes)