Why the counterfeit business is booming

The Economist
8 Dec 202213:39

Summary

TLDRThe video explores the booming counterfeit sneaker market, driven by high demand for rare shoes and the rise of e-commerce. Counterfeit sneakers now account for 20% of global counterfeit goods, with production primarily based in China. These fakes often match real products in quality, attracting buyers through social media and online platforms. Despite efforts by brands like Nike and platforms like eBay to combat counterfeits, the demand for fake sneakers persists. The counterfeit industry has ties to organized crime, making it a complex problem to address.

Takeaways

  • 👟 Footwear accounts for about 20% of the value of counterfeit goods in a global market worth over $500 billion, and this is rising.
  • 📈 The quality and quantity of counterfeit sneakers have dramatically increased, with some buyers choosing high-quality fakes over the real products.
  • 🔍 Brands like eBay have set up specialized warehouses to authenticate sneakers and prevent counterfeit goods from being sold on their platforms.
  • 🛍️ E-commerce and the resale market have fueled the counterfeit sneaker boom, making fake goods more accessible to consumers.
  • 🌐 The rise of e-commerce has revolutionized counterfeit production, shifting from large shipments to smaller, individualized packages via postal services.
  • 🤖 Counterfeiters have become more tech-savvy, using online platforms and influencers to promote their fake products and cater to a growing customer base.
  • 👟 High-quality fakes are produced in the same factories that manufacture legitimate sneakers, particularly in Putian, China, making it difficult to distinguish between real and counterfeit goods.
  • 💡 Counterfeit sneaker producers sometimes copy authentication tags and even the marketing tactics used by brands to sell fakes that are nearly identical to the originals.
  • 🚨 Organized crime is often involved in the counterfeit sneaker industry, with connections to human trafficking and other serious criminal activities.
  • 🔒 Shutting down counterfeit production is challenging due to high global demand, making it difficult to fully control or curb the market for fakes.

Q & A

  • What percentage of counterfeit goods does footwear represent in the global market?

    -Footwear accounts for about 20% of the value of all counterfeit goods in the global market, which is worth over $500 billion and rising.

  • Why has there been a boom in counterfeit sneaker production?

    -The boom in counterfeit sneaker production is largely driven by the rise of e-commerce, which has made fake goods more accessible. The pandemic further accelerated online sales, making it easier for counterfeiters to reach consumers.

  • How has the rise of e-commerce transformed counterfeit goods distribution?

    -E-commerce has revolutionized the counterfeit goods industry by replacing large bulk shipments with smaller, individual shipments via courier services like DHL and FedEx. Consumers can now order fake goods directly from counterfeiters with just a few clicks.

  • What role do influencers play in the sale of counterfeit sneakers?

    -Influencers, especially on platforms like YouTube, play a significant role in promoting counterfeit sneakers by reviewing and discussing the quality of these fakes. While they are careful not to disclose where the counterfeits can be bought, their videos often reach millions of viewers, fueling demand for these products.

  • Why are counterfeit sneakers becoming increasingly similar to authentic ones?

    -Counterfeiters are producing high-quality fakes that closely resemble authentic sneakers. Some consumers are even willing to pay good money for these fakes due to their almost one-to-one quality, driven by demand for limited-edition and high-value sneakers.

  • How are big brands like Nike fighting against counterfeit sneakers?

    -Brands like Nike and platforms such as eBay and StockX are combating counterfeit sneakers by implementing authentication processes. For example, eBay has set up a dedicated warehouse to verify the authenticity of sneakers before they reach buyers.

  • What is the significance of Putian, China, in the counterfeit sneaker industry?

    -Putian, China, is considered the global capital of counterfeit sneaker production. The city is also a major producer of genuine sneakers, which provides cover for Black Market operations, making it difficult to shut down counterfeit production.

  • What are some of the criminal activities linked to counterfeit sneaker production?

    -Counterfeit sneaker production is often linked to organized crime, including human trafficking. In some cases, workers are exploited or forced into making counterfeit products, with some criminal groups also engaging in prostitution and other illegal activities.

  • How do counterfeiters ensure customer satisfaction in today's market?

    -Counterfeiters focus on transparency and customer satisfaction by openly advertising their counterfeit products and ensuring that their fakes meet a high standard of quality. Many even keep track of their sales records and customer reviews to maintain credibility.

  • What are some of the challenges in curbing the demand for counterfeit sneakers?

    -Curbing demand for counterfeit sneakers is challenging because the demand is driven by consumers who either cannot afford the real product or prefer to spend less on a fake. Education and policing efforts have limited impact, as demand persists and supply continues to thrive.

Outlines

00:00

👟 The Rise of Counterfeit Sneakers and Organized Crime

The video begins by highlighting the prevalence of counterfeit sneakers in the market, with fake products like Nike models becoming increasingly convincing. Footwear now accounts for a significant portion of counterfeit goods, valued at over $500 billion globally. Buyers often choose fake products over real ones, viewing it as a near 'victimless crime,' but organized crime is heavily involved in the counterfeit trade. The video raises the question of why the counterfeit market is booming and whether major brands should be concerned.

05:02

👩‍🦰 Sneaker Enthusiasts and the Battle Against Fakes

Tallulah, a sneakerhead and expert in detecting counterfeit products, shares her love for rare sneakers and her role in combating fakes. She works in a secret warehouse for eBay, where they authenticate products and prevent counterfeit sneakers from flooding the market. The high demand for limited-edition shoes, such as the Jordan One and Jordan Four, fuels the counterfeit trade, as fake versions are often produced almost immediately after the real shoes are released.

10:04

📈 Counterfeit Sneakers and the Expansion of Illicit Trade

As the legal global sneaker market surpasses $100 billion, counterfeit goods have proliferated alongside it. Increased trade opportunities have led to more illicit activity, with footwear being the most seized counterfeit product globally. In response, platforms like eBay have launched authentication warehouses to combat counterfeit sales. With e-commerce fueling both legal and illegal markets, counterfeit sneakers have become more accessible, and bulk shipments have given way to smaller, individualized packages that make detection harder.

💻 E-Commerce and Counterfeiters' Tech Savviness

The shift to e-commerce has revolutionized counterfeiting, with online counterfeiters using technology to advertise their skills transparently. Rather than hiding their activities, they market their expertise in producing fake sneakers, often mimicking high-end resale platforms like StockX. Influencers play a role in promoting counterfeit products by reviewing and recommending high-quality fakes, although they avoid disclosing where the fakes can be purchased to remain on platforms like YouTube.

🏙️ The Role of Chinese Factories in Sneaker Counterfeiting

The city of Putian, China, is highlighted as the global center for sneaker counterfeiting, largely due to its involvement in manufacturing both genuine and fake sneakers. Factories often produce both legitimate products and counterfeit ones, sometimes under the same roof. This proximity makes it difficult to stop the flow of fake goods. Additionally, counterfeit operations often spawn new competitors as workers and criminals involved in counterfeit production set up their own businesses.

🔍 The Criminal Underbelly of Counterfeit Operations

Counterfeiters are not just producing fake sneakers—many are involved in more serious crimes, including human trafficking and forced labor. The video describes investigations that uncovered exploitation of trafficked Ethiopian women in counterfeit production and prostitution rings. While Chinese authorities have ramped up efforts to combat this illicit trade, the scale of counterfeiting in China makes it hard to shut down operations entirely. The demand for fake products globally continues to drive this underground economy.

⚖️ Economic and Ethical Challenges in Stopping Counterfeiting

Despite efforts to curb the counterfeit sneaker market, economic principles suggest that as long as there is demand, supply will persist. The video suggests that addressing counterfeit demand is as important as tackling supply, but there's no easy solution. The discussion compares counterfeiting to inflation, where the value of brands can be eroded over time as fake goods flood the market. Whether through education or policing, the video questions how best to curb consumer desire for counterfeit products.

Mindmap

Keywords

💡Counterfeit Goods

Counterfeit goods are fake products made to imitate genuine ones, often to deceive consumers. In the video, counterfeit sneakers are a major focus, representing a significant part of the global counterfeit market, worth over 500 billion dollars. The quality and quantity of counterfeit sneakers have increased, making them nearly indistinguishable from authentic ones.

💡E-commerce

E-commerce refers to the buying and selling of goods and services online. The video explains that the growth of e-commerce has revolutionized the counterfeit market by making it easier for counterfeiters to reach buyers. The pandemic further boosted online transactions, which increased the availability of fake goods on digital platforms.

💡Authentication

Authentication is the process of verifying the authenticity of a product to ensure it is not counterfeit. The video highlights eBay's authentication warehouse, where products like sneakers are carefully examined for signs of being fake, including smell tests and visual inspections. This helps reduce the circulation of counterfeits in the marketplace.

💡Sneakerhead

A sneakerhead is an enthusiast or collector of sneakers, often treating them as valuable fashion items. In the video, Tallulah is described as a 'self-styled sneakerhead,' who has a passion for rare sneakers like Jordan 4s. Sneakerheads drive demand for high-quality, limited-edition sneakers, which also increases the demand for counterfeits.

💡Resale Market

The resale market refers to the secondary market where used or rare products, such as sneakers, are sold at a higher price. In the video, the resale market is described as a multi-billion-dollar industry where high-value sneakers are sold like investments. The growing popularity of this market fuels the demand for counterfeit sneakers.

💡Organized Crime

Organized crime refers to structured groups involved in illegal activities, including counterfeiting. The video mentions that organized crime is heavily involved in counterfeit sneaker production, linking it to more serious crimes such as human trafficking. Counterfeit operations often exploit vulnerable individuals in their production processes.

💡Black Market

The black market is an illegal trading network where goods and services are sold outside of authorized channels. In the context of the video, the counterfeit sneaker industry is part of the black market, thriving due to the high demand for rare, limited-edition sneakers. Black market goods are often sold online, making it harder to regulate.

💡Influencers

Influencers are individuals who have the ability to affect the purchasing decisions of others, often through social media platforms. The video discusses how some influencers promote counterfeit sneakers by reviewing and showcasing them to their large online audiences, driving demand for these fakes. They help blur the lines between legal and counterfeit markets.

💡China

China is identified as the world's largest producer of counterfeit goods, including sneakers. The city of Putian in China is highlighted as the 'global capital of sneaker counterfeit production,' where factories produce both real and fake sneakers. China’s role in the counterfeit market is significant due to its large-scale manufacturing infrastructure.

💡Victimless Crime

A victimless crime is an illegal act that is perceived to cause no direct harm to anyone. Some consumers and influencers in the video argue that buying counterfeit sneakers is a victimless crime because it allows people to enjoy the product without paying exorbitant prices for the original. However, the video reveals the broader negative impacts on brands and links to organized crime.

Highlights

Footwear accounts for about 20% of the value of all counterfeit goods in a global market worth over $500 billion and rising.

Sneakerheads like Tallulah often collect rare and valuable sneakers, such as her pair of Jordan Fours from 2006.

eBay has established a secret warehouse to combat the growing counterfeit sneaker market by authenticating shoes before they're sold on the platform.

The global sneaker market is worth over $100 billion, creating a booming counterfeit market, especially with high-demand, limited edition shoes.

Footwear has become the most seized counterfeit product in the world, accounting for nearly a quarter of all confiscated goods.

eBay's authentication process for sneakers has authenticated over 1.5 million pairs, with a 120% year-over-year increase.

E-commerce has revolutionized the counterfeit market, allowing counterfeiters to sell directly to consumers through platforms like Reddit.

Counterfeit sneakers have become so well-made that many buyers knowingly choose high-quality fakes over the originals, considering it a 'victimless crime.'

The resale market for sneakers in America alone is worth an estimated $2 billion annually, driving demand for high-quality counterfeits.

Platforms like eBay and StockX now use authentication tags on sneakers, but counterfeiters have started copying even those tags.

Influencers are driving demand for counterfeit sneakers by showcasing the quality of fakes to millions of followers, further blurring the line between real and fake.

Putian, China, has become the global capital for sneaker counterfeit production, with factories producing both genuine and fake sneakers side by side.

Counterfeiters often start off as employees in legitimate factories and later set up their own operations, further expanding the counterfeit market.

Some counterfeit operations are linked to more serious crimes like human trafficking, with reports of workers being forced into labor and prostitution.

Despite efforts by Chinese authorities and brands, the sheer volume of counterfeit production makes it difficult to curb the supply, especially as consumer demand for fakes remains high.

Transcripts

play00:00

[Music]

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if you've bought any sneakers recently

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they may not be the real deal

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like Nike Nike 3 and 95. exactly the

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same Footwear accounts for about 20 of

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the value of all counterfeit Goods in a

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global market worth over 500 billion

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dollars and Rising

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the quantity and quality of counterfeits

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has never been greater to me these

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things are damn near one to one with

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many buyers purposefully choosing the

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steel I think it's pretty close to a

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victimless crime over the real let's be

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clear organized crime is involved so why

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has the counterfeit Market exploded

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and should the big Brands be worried

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[Music]

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my favorite pair oh that's so difficult

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that's like asking a mother to choose

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her favorite child right

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Tallulah is a self-styled sneakerhead

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like Millions around the world this pair

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of Jordan fours I have they're called

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classic greens they're from like 2006

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and it was like the first shoot I was

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like I need this in my life and she's

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lucky enough to combine her passion with

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her day job

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we have the Dual Jordan one which was

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like nearly six thousand pounds that's a

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shoe that a lot of sneak heads will like

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never even get to like hold in their

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hand or see so that was a pretty crazy

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moment

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but Tallulah is not making or selling

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sneakers her job is to sniff out the

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fakes

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the smile test is a part of the

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authentication process that we do

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as well this one

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there's a strong toxic smell that would

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not be a good sign for us

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she works in this secret Warehouse

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specially set up by eBay to stop the

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endless flow of counterfeit products

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onto its platform everything from

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Handbags and watches to playing cards

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and shoes

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so counterfeit shoes is like a daily

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occurrence that we see if a shoe has

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just released you know that immediately

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the people that make fakes are going to

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be straight on it

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the legal Global Athletic sneaker Market

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is already worth more than 100 billion

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dollars and is expected to keep growing

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and when products of any kind are in

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such high demand this often fuels a boom

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in counterfeits

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generally an increase in listed trade

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overall leads to an increase in

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illicitrade just because more trade is

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more opportunity for enlisted trade and

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usually is growing the market

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Footwear has become the most seized

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counterfeited product in the world

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accounting for nearly a quarter of all

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confiscated Goods

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want to know if I wear my kicks 49 is

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truly selling dead stocks eBay checks

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eBay's authentication Warehouse is part

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of a fight back by big Brands against

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the growing epidemic of Black Market

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Goods

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my aim is to prevent any unauthentic

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items from entering the retailing

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Network we've so far authenticated over

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one and a half million pairs of sneakers

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through our facility it's a 120 increase

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year over year

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so what's behind this extraordinary boom

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in counterfeit Goods

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perhaps the biggest driver has been the

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e-commerce Revolution for the last

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decade e-commerce has been growing fast

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in both the legal and black markets

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between 2017 and 2019 56 of seizures of

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counterfeit Goods within the European

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Union

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were linked to online sales

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then came the pandemic when e-commerce

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transactions and sales increased even

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more rapidly making fake Goods of all

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kinds even more accessible

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consumers used to depend on bulk

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shipments making their way from

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wholesalers and middlemen to Street

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Markets but today buying fakes feels a

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lot like buying legal products

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sites like Reddit mean you can order

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bespoke Parcels directly from

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counterfeiters with just a few clicks

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the e-commerce completely revolutionized

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the business of counterfeiting

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the shipments used to be made generally

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in large containers 20 foot or 40 foot

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containers we regularly seized three

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four thousand pieces since those days

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shipments are sent out individually by

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DHL by FedEx by China Post

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thank you

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counterfeiters are utilizing e-commerce

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to further blur the line between the

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legal and illegal retail markets when it

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comes to selling fake sneakers some have

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abandoned the old tricks of the trade

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now counterfeiters often seek customer

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satisfaction through transparency and

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honesty

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purposefully using the digital sphere to

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advertise their counterfeiting prowess

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online counterfeiters are incredibly

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tech savvy online sales are their entire

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business it's their bread and butter and

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they need to stay ahead of the curve on

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technology now how much would you be

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prepared to Fork out for a pair of used

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shoes

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there's another 21st century Trend

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common in legal retail which is driving

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the Boom in counterfeit sneakers the

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resale Market in America alone it is

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worth an estimated 2 billion dollars a

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year

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at the top end investors are trading in

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rare authentic sneakers which are sold

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on for profits well now you can walk a

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mile in Kanye West shoes the first pair

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of Yeezys he ever wore are going up for

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auction

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this pair designed and worn by Kanye

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West set a new auction record by selling

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for 1.8 million dollars

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people are investing in high value

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sneakers they want something that they

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can put on the shelf and maybe flip as

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the value goes up it's a bit like fine

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wine or an art collection this is a new

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version of items that people have a

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great deal of value in

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Brands like Nike deliberately restrict

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Supply on certain lines to build hype

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and demand

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this demand for rare and authentic

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products has created a demand for high

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quality fakes consumers are prepared to

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pay good money for good fakes

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so recently we've been seeing a lot of

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counterfeits that they're getting a lot

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of the good details of the shoot with

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the value of sneakers at an all-time

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high the counterfeit producers are

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making sneakers kind of one-to-one

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quality

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the likes of eBay and stockx but

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authentication tags on Sneakers but now

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the counterfeiters are even copying

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those tags some more credibly than

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others

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take a look look at the color look at

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the color this was a little bit more

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lime green this is just like a mint

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green

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online influences like this are found

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across the web and just as influencers

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have become an important way for

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retailers to push legitimate products so

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they have also become a significant

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force in driving consumers towards

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counterfeits to me these things are damn

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near one to one I mean in my opinion

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ones they have nailed

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some of these influences have millions

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of followers and their videos have had

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millions of hits

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they feed hungry consumers details about

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the varying quality and costs of

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counterfeits on offer they do look like

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a really nice shoe even the fake ones I

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can go online and buy a pair like this

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close to the real thing I might get them

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now you know this is a little

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advertising for the real deal we have

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some horribly fake ones like these some

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argue these connoisseurs of counterfeit

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are performing a much needed service for

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consumers replicas or reps as they are

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known are often simply more affordable

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for buyers somebody shouldn't pay a

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thousand dollars for a shoe that's

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supposed to be from Nike and get it from

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somewhere else I don't think that that's

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right but if you're buying reps to wear

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them because you can't afford or you

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don't want to spend that kind of money

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that doesn't bother me when it comes to

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Consumers buying a replica that they

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know to be a replica I think it's pretty

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close to a victimless crime and the

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consumer is not harmed sort of by

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definition and arguably made better

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better off because that person perhaps

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couldn't afford uh or could only afford

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a Great Lengths to buy the original

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but promotion by influencers can only go

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so far

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to avoid being delisted from platforms

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like YouTube influencers are careful not

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to say where counterfeits can be bought

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I didn't say where I got these from but

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it is from a really reputable person and

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name in the rep space

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with the prolific Rise of influencers

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and e-commerce demand for fake sneakers

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is unlikely to subside anytime soon

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so what about shutting down Supply

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that's also tricky about 80 percent of

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the market value of all fake Footwear

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sees worldwide comes from the world's

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largest manufacturing country China

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biggest manufacturer for replicas in

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China as a side note is actually Pew tan

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China

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the city of putian has become the global

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capital of sneaker counterfeit

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production

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that's partly because putian also

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produces the majority of the world's

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genuine sneakers providing cover for

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Black Market production

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did you finish all your orders before

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the Chinese New Year

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thank you

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illegal production has become more

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closely intertwined with legal

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production often within the same Factory

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private detective Ted caveras has

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witnessed this first hand when filming

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undercover footage in factories

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it's kind of the Urban Land scale that

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you expect in China you drive Factory

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Here Factor here factory here Factor

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here

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it's also doing like your Air Jordan how

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many machines we have here 500.

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in China counterfeits spawn copies of

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counterfeits this is the original so

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they took apart the sample right

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if there's a criminal group making

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counterfeits quite often they'll have

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the number two or three in the hierarchy

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I just learn the business and then set

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up their own shop so one counterfeiting

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group can give birth to three or four

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competitors

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although counterfeiters can seem more

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like regular business people worried

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about customer service and overheads

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they are not always committing

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victimless crimes

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some counterfeit operators are also

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involved in more dangerous and serious

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criminal activities such as human

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trafficking let's be clear organized

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crime is involved I very rarely had a an

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investigation that hasn't involved some

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other type of crime we investigated a

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group who had been exploiting Ethiopian

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women who had been trafficked the

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Ethiopian women were being locked in

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rooms forced into making counterfeit

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products at night they were forced onto

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the streets into prostitution

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the Chinese authorities have increased

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efforts to crack down on Black Market

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production and sales and there are ways

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investigators can use technology to

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catch the counterfeiters occasionally

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they want people to know that their

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reputable Sellers and that they're have

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a thousand satisfied customers and the

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platforms want this as well so there are

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actually tracked records of sales on a

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lot of these platforms showing how many

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products the counterfeiter has sold this

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is one tool we have that we can use

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against the counterfeiters however the

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sheer volume of production in China

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means there is little hope of closing

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down the supply line of fakes

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it's a basic law of economics if there's

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demand there will be Supply at a certain

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point you can't really solve that all

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you can do is kind of occasionally

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nibble at the edges and knock off

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certain uh suppliers and then another

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supplier comes comes along and it's sort

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of inevitable

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it's not China's fault it's the demand

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from overseas driving this business in

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China so what we have to do is look at

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who's buying it we have to control it

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the customer too and do we do that by

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education or by policing

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there is no easy answer to curbing

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consumer demand

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for Brands wanting to slow down the

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counterfeit Market there could be a

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rough ride ahead in the end it's like

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inflation

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you know if you and I start literally

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counterfeiting dollars or pounds who are

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we really harming but in the aggregate

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it starts to inflate away the value of

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the dollar we all did that and so it's

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the same kind of dynamic with Brands it

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starts to inflate away the value of the

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brand dilute the value of the brand

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[Music]

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hello I'm Tom standage Deputy editor at

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The Economist if you'd like to learn

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more about this topic click on the link

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opposite thanks for watching and don't

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forget to subscribe

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