EVERY MAINTENANCE ITEM: Mercury/Tohatsu 4HP/5HP/6HP 4-Stroke Outboard

Summary

The video script documents a DIY enthusiast's detailed process of maintaining a 2018 Mercury six horsepower four-stroke outboard motor. The individual shares their experience of performing various maintenance tasks, including an oil change, spark plug replacement, water impeller replacement, carburetor disassembly and cleaning, and lower end unit gear oil change. The script emphasizes learning and improvement, inviting viewers to contribute their insights and suggestions for better maintenance practices.

Takeaways

• 🧰 Basic maintenance on a 2018 Mercury 6 HP four-stroke engine includes oil changes, spark plug replacement, and water impeller replacement.
• 🛠️ For oil changes, use marine-grade 4-cycle 10W-30 oil and drain the old oil into a bucket, checking for metal shavings or contamination.
• 🔧 Replace the spark plug with a compatible E36 and tighten it to the recommended torque, even without a torque wrench.
• 💧 Change the water impeller annually to ensure proper cooling and prevent engine damage from lack of cooling water circulation.
• 🔄 Inspect the drive shaft and impeller housing for wear and ensure the impeller is correctly installed and keyed to the drive shaft.
• 🚫 Avoid changing gears while the lower end unit is detached to maintain proper alignment and prevent damage.
• 🛠️ Perform a carburetor disassembly and cleaning to address starting issues and improve engine performance.
• 🌊 Check the propeller for wear and clean the edges with a file to improve efficiency and prevent cavitation.
• 🔩 Reinstalling the lower end unit involves aligning the drive shaft, securing the water pump housing, and ensuring all connections are leak-free.
• 💰 Consider investing in a rebuild kit for the carburetor, which includes new gaskets and jets for a more thorough maintenance.
• 🚀 After completing maintenance, the engine should start more easily and run smoother, with improved performance and fuel efficiency.

Q & A

What is the main purpose of the video?

The main purpose of the video is to document and share the process of maintaining a 2018 Mercury six horsepower four stroke engine, including a carburetor disassembly and cleaning. The video aims to be a learning experience for both the creator and the viewers, and encourages comments with tips and advice for better maintenance practices.

How often should the oil be changed in the Mercury engine?

The oil should be changed every 100 hours of use, or at least once a season if the engine doesn't reach 100 hours.

What type and amount of oil is recommended for the 4, 5, and 6 horsepower Mercury and Tohatsu motors?

Marine grade 4-stroke 10W-30 oil is recommended for these engines, and they all take 15 ounces of oil.

What is the significance of sampling the used oil during a drain?

Sampling the used oil allows the observer to check for sediment, metal shavings, or any contamination that may have settled at the bottom of the oil, which can indicate potential issues or wear within the engine.

How often should the water impeller be changed in the engine?

It is recommended to change the water impeller every year. This helps ensure that the engine has proper cooling and prevents potential damage from running without cooling water circulation.

What is the role of the key in the impeller assembly?

The key fits into the impeller and locks it to the drive shaft, ensuring that the impeller spins and pumps water through the engine for cooling. Without the key, the impeller would not spin and the engine could be damaged due to lack of cooling.

What is the correct procedure for reinstalling the carburetor after cleaning?

After cleaning, the carburetor should be reassembled with the jets and gaskets in their correct positions, ensuring that the bowl is oriented correctly. The choke and throttle linkages should be reattached, and the carburetor should be bolted back onto the engine, making sure all vacuum and fuel lines are correctly reconnected.

How did the speaker address the issue of the prop not turning when attempting to start the engine?

The speaker realized that the shift linkage was out of position due to changing gears inadvertently while the lower end unit was decoupled. They fixed the issue by adjusting the coupling to ensure neutral was correctly aligned on both the motor side and the lower end unit.

What were the results after completing the maintenance activities?

After completing the maintenance activities, the engine started on the third pull when it was cold, and on the first pull once it was warmed up. The speaker noted an improvement in performance, particularly after filing the prop edge, and no longer experienced cavitation issues at full RPM.

What is the speaker's advice for future maintenance?

The speaker suggests investing in a pump for filling the lower end unit oil to avoid air pockets and ensure proper filling. They also recommend doing maintenance activities before winter storage and paying attention to details like the orientation of the carburetor bowl and the positioning of the key in the impeller.

Outlines

00:00

🔧 Introduction to Mercury 6HP Outboard Motor Maintenance

The video begins with the presenter sharing their experience with a 2018 Mercury 6HP four-stroke outboard motor, which has been used for about 100 hours over the year. They plan to undertake comprehensive maintenance, including all tasks listed in the manual plus additional steps like carburetor disassembly and cleaning. Despite not being a professional mechanic, the presenter emphasizes learning and sharing tips and tricks for better motor maintenance. The tutorial is meant to be interactive, inviting viewers to suggest improvements and share their own insights, thus creating a learning platform for everyone involved.

05:03

🛠️ Detailed Guide to Oil Change and Spark Plug Replacement

This section walks through the essential maintenance tasks starting with an oil change, a routine task recommended every 100 hours or at least once a season. The presenter demonstrates how to drain the old oil and refill with marine-grade 4-cycle 10W30 oil, highlighting the importance of checking for metal shavings or contaminants in the drained oil. Following the oil change, the focus shifts to replacing the spark plug, detailing the removal of the old plug and installation of a new one, even without a torque wrench, emphasizing the proper tightening technique to avoid over-tightening.

10:05

🌊 Water Impeller Replacement Process

The presenter explains the importance of replacing the water impeller annually as a preventive measure to avoid overheating the motor. The step-by-step guide covers the removal of the lower unit of the outboard motor to access the impeller, located above the lower unit. The process involves disconnecting the shift linkage, removing the impeller housing, and installing a new impeller, ensuring it's oriented correctly to match the rotation of the motor. The presenter also shares a personal mistake made with the impeller key, emphasizing the importance of securing this small but crucial component.

15:07

🔩 Propeller and Lower End Unit Inspection

In this segment, the presenter delves into inspecting and maintaining the propeller and the lower end unit of the motor. The process includes removing the propeller to inspect the spline gear for wear and applying anti-seize lubricant for protection. The presenter also demonstrates how to file down any nicks or burrs on the propeller to ensure smooth operation. The importance of maintaining the upper spline on the drive shaft and the significance of applying anti-seize lubricant for future maintenance ease are also discussed.

20:11

⚙️ Carburetor Removal, Cleaning, and Reassembly

Facing issues with cold starting, the presenter decides to tackle the carburetor by removing, disassembling, and thoroughly cleaning it. This section is filled with detailed steps, including detaching the gas line, throttle linkage, and various hoses before accessing the carburetor. Key components like the idle and main jets are cleaned with carburetor cleaner. The reassembly process is carefully documented, highlighting the placement of gaskets and the reconnection of lines and linkages, ensuring everything is back in place for optimal engine performance.

25:17

🔄 Gear Oil Change and Final Greasing

This part focuses on changing the gear oil in the lower end unit, a critical task recommended every 100 hours or annually before winter storage. The presenter illustrates the procedure for draining the old oil and refilling with new gear oil, ensuring all air pockets are expelled for proper lubrication. The segment concludes with applying grease to various components such as the swivel fittings, transom clamp screws, and shift pivot points to ensure smooth operation and prevent corrosion.

30:20

🛠️ Troubleshooting and Final Tests

After completing all maintenance tasks, the presenter encounters a problem with the propeller spinning while pulling the start cord, indicating a misalignment in the shift linkage. The issue is resolved by adjusting the coupling to match the gear positions. The motor is then tested in a bucket, and despite initial difficulties, it starts and runs well, showcasing improved performance. The presenter concludes by testing the motor on the water, noting significant improvements in speed and cavitation issues, attributing success to the maintenance performed, especially the spark plug replacement and propeller filing.

Keywords

💡Maintenance

In the context of the video, maintenance refers to the routine care and servicing performed on a 2018 Mercury six horsepower four stroke engine to ensure its longevity and optimal performance. It involves a variety of tasks such as oil changes, spark plug replacement, and carburetor cleaning. The speaker emphasizes the importance of following the manual's guidelines for each maintenance activity to avoid potential issues.

💡Mercury Engine

A Mercury Engine is a type of internal combustion engine manufactured by the Mercury brand, which is known for its marine engines. In the video, the speaker is working on a 2018 Mercury six horsepower four stroke engine, which is a specific model of this brand. The engine's features and maintenance requirements are central to the video's content.

💡Oil Change

An oil change is a routine maintenance procedure for engines where old, contaminated oil is drained and replaced with fresh oil. In the video, the speaker performs a basic oil change every 100 hours or once a season, using marine grade 4-cycle 10W-30 oil. This process is crucial for keeping the engine running smoothly and preventing wear and tear.

💡Spark Plug

A spark plug is a device that delivers an electric spark to an internal combustion engine, igniting the fuel-air mixture and powering the engine. In the video, the speaker replaces the spark plug, which is an essential component for the engine to start and run properly. The correct type of spark plug (E36 in this case) and the proper torque for installation are discussed.

💡Carburetor

A carburetor is a mechanical device that mixes air and fuel for an internal combustion engine. In the video, the speaker disassembles and cleans the carburetor to address issues with the engine's starting and performance. This process involves removing the carburetor from the engine, soaking its components in carb cleaner, and reassembling it correctly.

💡Water Impeller

A water impeller is a component in a marine engine's cooling system that circulates cooling water through the engine to prevent overheating. In the video, the speaker emphasizes the importance of changing the water impeller annually to maintain the engine's cooling efficiency. The impeller is attached to the drive shaft and is responsible for pushing water through the engine.

💡Lower End Unit

The lower end unit (LEU) is a part of the marine engine that houses the gear case and the propeller shaft. In the video, the speaker removes the LEU to access the water impeller and to change its oil. Proper reinstallation of the LEU is crucial to ensure the engine's correct operation and to prevent water ingress.

💡Propeller

A propeller, or prop, is a device with blades that rotates to propel a boat or other watercraft. In the video, the speaker inspects the propeller for wear and tear, and even files the edge of the prop to improve performance. The condition of the propeller directly affects the efficiency and speed of the boat.

💡Fuel Filter

A fuel filter is a component of the fuel system that removes debris and contaminants from the fuel before it reaches the engine. In the video, the speaker更换 the fuel filter as part of routine maintenance to ensure the engine receives clean fuel, which is crucial for reliable engine performance and to prevent fuel system issues.

💡Gear Oil

Gear oil is a type of lubricant specifically designed for use in the gear systems of various machinery, including marine engines. In the video, the speaker changes the gear oil in the lower end unit of the engine to maintain its performance and prevent damage from water contamination or wear. The correct type and amount of gear oil are important for the proper functioning of the gears.

💡Shift Linkage

Shift linkage is a mechanism that connects the shift lever to the gear system of an engine, allowing the operator to change gears. In the video, the speaker adjusts the shift linkage to ensure that the engine's gear positions are correctly aligned, which is critical for the engine's operation and to prevent issues when starting the engine.

Highlights

The speaker has been using the Mercury 6 horsepower four-stroke engine for a year and has reached about 100 hours of use, indicating it's time for maintenance.

The maintenance process includes following the manual's instructions and additional tasks such as carburetor removal, disassembly, and cleaning.

The speaker clarifies that they are not a mechanic and this is not an expert tutorial, but rather a learning experience for themselves and the audience.

The engine in question is also similar to a Tohatsu, meaning the maintenance activities and procedures are the same for both brands.

The basic oil change is a crucial routine to perform every 100 hours or once a season if the 100-hour mark is not reached.

For 4, 5, and 6 horsepower Mercury and Tohatsu engines, 15 ounces of marine-grade 4-cycle 10W-30 oil is required.

The speaker emphasizes the importance of checking the used oil for sediment, metal shavings, or any contamination before disposing of it.

When replacing the spark plug, the speaker uses an E36 spark plug and notes the importance of tightening it to the correct torque.

Changing the water impeller every year is recommended to prevent engine damage from lack of cooling water circulation.

The speaker shares a critical lesson about the importance of the impeller key, which locks the impeller to the drive shaft, and the consequences of losing it.

The process of reassembling the lower end unit is detailed, including the need to align the drive shaft and ensure the water intake seats properly.

The fuel filter is changed as part of regular maintenance, with the speaker noting the importance of the flow direction indicator.

The carburetor is removed and cleaned to address starting issues, with the speaker using carb cleaner and ensuring all parts are reassembled correctly.

The speaker discusses the importance of changing the lower end unit gear oil every 100 hours and provides a step-by-step guide on how to do it correctly.

After reassembling and refilling all components, the speaker successfully starts the engine, noting improvements in performance and a smoother operation.

The speaker shares a tip about using a pump when refilling the lower end unit gear oil to avoid air pockets and ensure proper lubrication.

The importance of not changing gears during the maintenance process is emphasized to avoid misalignment of the shift linkage.

The speaker concludes the maintenance session by lubricating various fittings and ensuring all components are in their proper positions.

Transcripts

i've had this guy for about a year it's

got about 100 hours on it

it's time to do some maintenance it's a

2018

mercury six horsepower four stroke and

i'm going to do

every maintenance activity in the manual

plus

a carb removal disassembly and cleaning

it's going to be fun

disclaimer i am not a mechanic this is

not an

expert tutorial this is more of a

conversation if i do anything wrong

leave a comment if there's a better way

if there's a trick a hack

to do something better leave a comment

this video is for me to learn for you

guys to learn

and for us to find the best way to take

care of a motor like this

this motor is also the same as a tahatsu

so all these activities are exactly the

same for a tahatsu motor

and these maintenance items are the same

for the four five and six horsepower

mercury and tahatsu's

let's hit the garage and do some

maintenance basic oil change do it every

100 hours

do it once a season if you don't hit 100

hours marine grade 4

cycle 10 w 30 oil 3

4 5 and 6 horsepower all take

15 ounces so i've got a really basic

measuring can here

here yellow cap is the oil

fill cap so i'm going to go ahead

take that guy off on the pull start side

on the bottom of the motor relative to

the handle

you can see drain plug there we're going

to pull that drain

plug off let it drain out the drain plug

is a 10

millimeter hex head so grab yourself a

10 millimeter

socket and take it off

we're gonna crack it and drain the used

and

oil into a bucket and

one thing i like to do is the first bit

that comes out i like to sample

because that's where you're going to

have a lot of sediment just to see if

there's any

any metal shavings um or any

contamination in there that's settled

down to the bottom

we'll give this a little crack get the

bucket under there

once it's loose enough to loosen it

there it goes don't lose a drain plug

it looks pretty looks pretty good

no metal shavings all right it looks

like it's about done draining a couple

drips once i take a sample look for

metal shavings i also like to give it a

little smell just to make sure there's

no gas

i'm also looking for any water standing

on top

any discoloration i always like to put a

little bit of the threshold in

now we've pushed some of that old oil

out

now it's time to put the drain plug back

in put a little bit

put a little bit on my finger i'm going

to make sure

the drain plug is lubricated

and has a good seal with that oil

it's thumb tightened down now we'll

tighten it the rest of the way

you don't want to give it too much force

so you'll strip it it's definitely not

something you want to do so i usually

i don't know how many newton meters it

recommends but

give it a snug it in now it's time to

fill it back up with the oil

snug it down

and let's check the fill level

if you can see it

it's kind of clear but it's dead on

that is it

spark plug replacement here's spark plug

here's plug cable

it is on the tiller side of the motor

opposite

of the gas can first thing we're going

to do

pop that plug cable off

there she is this spark plug take a

spark plug socket

or a 5 8 wrench

she is

looks pretty good here's the new one

this is a e36 i'll post a picture of all

of the compatible spark plugs

now i'm just going to thread it right

back in

all right once you get it thumb tight

kind of jiggle a little

bit get any slop out of it so you cannot

tighten it anymore and then this guy is

supposed to be tightened down to

20 foot-pounds of torque i don't have a

torque wrench

my fingers are my torque wrench

let's see where we're at right here

we're about 18 foot pounds

all right 20 foot pound i'm just kidding

i have no idea how many foot pounds that

is but

what you can do is it says to thumb

tighten or finger tighten down

give it an extra quarter turn once your

finger tighten down

and then that should be pretty close to

20 foot pounds plug cable back on

that is it all right now let's change

the

water impeller it's good to change this

every year cheap insurance

they'll probably last a good two to

three years but

quickest way to blow out your motor is

to run it without

cooling water cycling through the engine

i

always change out the impeller once a

year

impeller is located right above lower

end unit

right in here water comes in water

inlet which is here

floods the water impeller the water

impeller is attached to the drive shaft

it's circuit it's uh pushing water

circulating water

up through the water pipe here into your

engine it's circulating

through the engine and then it is coming

out your tail tail

here first step is you got to remove

this cover here this cover is

is over a port where the

your shift linkage is attached to

your lower end unit so you take that

rubber cover off

this guy it's going to give you access

to

your shift linkage and then what you're

going to want to do

is put it in

put in reverse and then you can see

that hex head here and what that hex

head is doing is it's connecting

shift linkage to your lower end unit

and this guy's got to come off because

we're going to pull the lower

end unit off in order to get to the

impeller 10 millimeter socket

just want to loosen it you don't want to

take it all the way out or to fall out

so that guy's loose now and you don't

want to change gears once you get that

loose you're going to be out of position

we can take the lower lower end unit off

there are two bolts under there

that one and then one on the back

that one that's holding the lower end

unit off so we're going to take those

guys off now

13 millimeter socket

10 millimeter for the back

there you got it lower end unit is out

here's a drive shaft

here is the impeller housing

here here is your shift linkage

that's what was attached that we

loosened

and then once again here's your drive

shaft

pretty cool

here is inlet

for the water here

here's the tube that goes from the inlet

to the impeller housing or your pump

housing there

there's a tube that sits right down in

there i'll show you here in a second

when the water gets pushed up that into

your motor there's the tube right there

that sits down in the

water pump you got to take these four

bolts off to get to the

impeller 10 millimeter socket

boob comes out of this seat this whole

housing

pops off and then it'll slide

up the drive shaft

key thing whenever you get this off

always note which way it's turning if

you can see

see how it looks from this point it's

turning clockwise you can see the veins

are bent

in the counterclockwise position you've

got to put the new impeller in that same

exact way

new impeller

all right let's stop here full

disclosure

this guy this guy

almost made me have

a really

bad day this little thing here is a key

that fits

in the impeller there's a little slot

right there at the top where that key

sits in and basically locks it to the

drive shaft

the drive shaft is what spins this

without this key the drive shaft's going

to spin this

is not going to spin and push any water

so

this guy fell out after i was done in

reinstalling the new impeller in

the outboard so i'm going to have to

tear it back down

and make sure that this guy's in the

proper place make sure when you're doing

this you do not lose this little key

my new impeller did not come with one

i'm just lucky that i found it

when i saw it on the floor this could

have ruined

this outboard if i took it out in the

water but without this key eventually

the impeller would have wore out in the

center

lost friction with the drive shaft and

stopped pumping water so this could have

ruined this outboard here is the

new impeller

on the drive shaft

there is a flat you can see it right

there there's a flat

machined surface at the bottom of the

drive shaft that engages with the key

that goes and slide inside the impeller

slot there's a keyway in the impeller

key goes in there and engages with that

flat surface

the trick to get that key in

is to put a little bit of grease

at the bottom of the drive shaft so the

key sticks to that flat surface

and then slide the impeller down

on the key that is the easiest way

that i've found to do it and i found

this off of a youtube channel and i'll

link his

channel in the show notes below so i'm

going to put a little bit

just a little tiny bit of grease down at

the very bottom

to hold the key in place

that is locked in it's a little bit

tricky but

once you get it give it a couple tries

now it's locked in there's a little bit

of play

there's a little bit of play in it but

that's all right it's meant to do that

as long as you can't spin that all the

way around you're okay

so the next step is to put the housing

down

over the impeller

it's a little bit hard because this

impeller is oversized

compared to the diameter of the housing

so a trick

is to put some dishwashing detergent on

it give it some lubrication

some people use machine guru some people

use marine

grade grease that is meant for rubber

and plastic

that's always a good idea make sure

there's no crud on there make sure the

seal is

clean then the

housing slides

on the drive shaft

once again the water in lit is going to

seat in that hole right there

remember the direction of the veins of

the impeller it's got to go the same way

so when looking at the drive shaft from

the motor side it rotates

clockwise so you're going to rotate it

clockwise while pushing down on the

housing

to get it to seat down

make sure this water inlet seats down in

the

hole here

just like that

that's seated down good

all right so we're good we got the motor

housing back on impeller is going

in the right direction the key's in

there remember the

drive shaft rotates counterclockwise

when looking at it from the motor

from the top or the motor side

everything looks like it's good water

intake is seated in there

now it's time to tighten it back down

while we get this guy off

i'm going to pull the prop

inspect the spine gear on the prop

while we have this guy off the lower end

unit

i'm going to go ahead and inspect

the upper spline on the drive shaft

everything looks good put some

anti-seize on it

all right while we have this guy off

also i'm going to take the prop off

straighten that cotter pin out

there got it

now 17 millimeter socket

[Music]

comes right off

you got nut don't lose it

under the nut there is a washer

then comes all the way off

don't forget which side goes which

this blind side goes towards the lower

end unit

thing looks pretty good no stripped

um

i don't know if you can see in there

probably not

there's some some wear going on

definitely work some of those gears down

a little bit

inspect this portion here

this looks really good

anti-seize

put some anti-seize on this spine gear

here

prop it's beat up pretty bad

some pretty good nicks

i'm actually going to take a file clean

this up from the back

side

start with the coarse side of the file

get a lot of those burrs out

you want a pretty sharp edge any kind of

burrs

nicks can cut through the water as well

and you can get some

cavitation give you a disclaimer i don't

know if this is good for the prop or not

so

do your research but

i have seen people do it and it makes

sense

to me

it actually looks

it actually looks a lot better all right

let's get this guy back on

all right spline side towards the lower

end unit washer

nuts so here's the tricky part getting

this to line

up

all right tighten this down

now the fun part

is finding oh

see that's what the hole is covered up

where the cotter pin is supposed to go

so i tied it too much

ah too much this is what i don't

understand

am i supposed to tighten it all the way

because if i do

i miss the hole

there's not enough room to get in there

there

finally got it finally got it in there

now just bend this guy back up

all right should be all there is to it

now i'm going to reinstall the lower end

unit back to the motor

so it looks like underneath this side

right here

is the coupling for your shift lever

that hole in the middle that's where the

drive shaft's gonna go

that pipe right there

right there is what's going to seat

on your water pump

right there

those have to mate up that has to mate

with the water pipe

this has to go up through that center

hole this has to go through

the coupling to attach back the shift

lever

now we'll just putting the two bolts

that attach the lower end unit

now the only thing left to do is tighten

up the coupling that attaches the shift

lever to the lower end unit it's again

10 millimeter

let's get snug now when i shift

you should see that move

there it goes

all right we got the lower end unit back

on

it is a bit tricky getting the drive

shaft to go up there there's like a pipe

up at the top the drive shaft's got to

go through the

shift linkage that goes down into the

lower end unit

has to go through that coupling and then

also it has to go through this hole here

right

there

[Music]

so you've got to hit the

coupling there's a hole in the coupling

you got to hit that you got to go

through that hole and the drive shaft's

got to go through that tube

up in the middle that guides it into the

motor and then

also there is a water pipe that's got a

seat

into your water pump housing so once you

get all that lined up

bolted in should be good to go make sure

you do not change gears after you detach

the lower end and take that coupling off

make sure you don't change gears because

you're going to be out of position and

it's going to cause you some problems

you're in forward if you change gears

your forward position here on your lever

is going to be neutral potentially if

you change gears

either by pushing the linkage

rod into the lower end unit that changes

gears for your lower end unit or

accidentally pushing your shift lever

here

is going to get you out of position got

it back together we'll move on to the

next one

is the fuel filter

two clamp fittings

super easy make sure your gas is drained

run it dry remove those clamp fittings

take the filter off put anyone on

once you get them out you can pull the

fuel filter rod off

sometimes you gotta break it loose a

little bit like that

bam just like that

all right put the new one on look at the

flow look for the flow marker

flow towards carburetor

away from the gas tank

put your lines back

move the on fittings back down

[Applause]

that is it

now carb removal

tear down and cleaning this has to be a

little bit scared

and it just looks complicated

afraid i'm gonna mess something up but

i've been having some issues with coal

starting so i think taking that carb

apart and cleaning it is gonna help me

out a tremendous amount

so let's jump into it and figure this

out here's the carb

i'm thinking these two bolts

are what is primarily holding this

scarve on so what i'm going to do is

pull this line gas

line there's a compression fitting here

i'm going to take that compression

fitting

off and then i'm going to take these

bolts out this should slide off when i

remove

the throttle linkage here's the throttle

linkage where it

attaches pull that that bolt off

that bolt off take

airline off take the airline off here

and this should then this should

come right off let's let's start tearing

it down and see

it's going to be an adventure but it's

okay first thing gas line

all right gas line is off

there's a vacuum tube or something right

there that's

overflow flood ah

okay so when it floods i think this

directs

the gas out versus into the motor

so honestly that can stay on right now

because this

it's not really attached to anything

it's just sticking out the bottom of the

motor

how does that come off i think it pops

right out

oh man all right there's the throttle

linkage

it was attached to right in that slot

right there

as you can see that moves

with the throttle so the best thing i

found

give it about half throttle it'll make

it perpendicular and you can push it

right through

all right so we've got the

airline fuel line airline off we've got

the throttle linkage off

we've got this vacuum or this tube here

that i think's for flood overflow now

i'm just gonna get these bolts off

two bolts that's all i see

one

to

be careful there are bushings

in there that come out

this is the little breather box

where the airline attaches

here's the choke

there's choke throttle

haha there's the that's what i was

missing

take it leave this in there until you

get the carb off and then you can just

turn it and it comes right out

these tubes

oh my goodness got it

watch that

little gasket there all right

here's the carb

choke throttle

see it's auto valve in there

bull drain there's a screw under that

cap for your

fuel air mixture i think that is the

idle jet is in there that's what i'm

really

interested in is that guys i'm having a

hard time call starting

let's get this let's get these screws

out get the bowl off and we'll get some

carb cleaner in here

there's the main jet with these jets

because they're brass

and they will strip out if you don't

have the right size

phillip head

there we go

that's the plug

all right let's get this other one off

here's the idle jet

all right so now i'm going to soak this

guy

in some carb cleaner just let it soak

and then spray it again

oh

let that sit in that bowl those two jets

and take this outside and just spray

everything down as best i can

be back right and spraying it

make sure you get in

that idle jet port right there

it'll blow back up through the main jet

and through the throttle

chamber so everything's sprayed down

really good i'm gonna let it sit

overnight

and then come back tomorrow put it back

together and see how she runs

the jets they soaked overnight

i sprayed out the carb again and cleaned

out the bowl again with carb cleaner

ready to put this guy back on

so wish me luck all right first going to

put the jets back on

the longer ones the idle jet

goes in that port right there

you just want to snug these down they're

brass so they will strip out

easy on you you get snug in there

now your main jet

inside the bowl

just snug it down

in that main port

now it's time for the bowl

watch the gasket sometimes it'll come

out on you

make sure there's no dirt or

contamination around that gasket

if you get a rebuild kit you get a new

gasket with it's always a good idea

spend a little extra money get a rebuild

kit

all right you also want to be careful

there's another gasket

on the outlet side of the carb

this plastic gasket here this plastic

spacer slash gasket

goes there we've got three gaskets on

the outlet side that you got to be

careful you got

got a gasket on the outlet of the carb

and then you got a gasket on the motor

side and then that plastic spacer so

don't lose any three of those

at this little breather box

remember this little breather box goes

on

the inlet side of the carb these two

bolts go through here

you got brass bushings that are loose in

that little box

those will fall out and you will lose

those so be careful there

get the bolts in through there get the

bolts through your carb

so now the carb is ready to fit back in

place

first and attach the choke

linkage because it's easier to go in

then down done

choke linkage

now i can put the plastic spacer on

and then now line up the holes and i can

screw it in

drain slash vacuum tubes whatever they

are

make sure they get routed back down

out the bottom

they literally come out the bottom of

the motor

now gas line hook the gas line back into

the

inlet of the carb

so

airlines secure the air intake

line check the choke

that looks really good

throttle linkage i almost forgot about

that guy

give it half to have throttle that'll

position everything

we'll go into the carb side first

oh i forgot which way this goes i should

have took a picture

got it on video i don't want to go back

and try to find in the video

let me figure it out all right so looks

like

this side is going to go

in the carb

add it

all right so there

this is what it looks like with that

linkage on i was having a problem

getting it

seated there you definitely want to put

it in

carb side first

that throttle valve there and then you

can kind of

semi-force it in that channel

that's controlled by your tiller handle

i think you can take that hex head off

make it a little bit easier but i was

able to get it to fit in that

channel so we got the gas line hooked

back up we got the air

intake line hooked back up we got the

i think flood overflow in

that's hooked up routed out the bottom

it's another vacuum tube i believe or

flood overflow on the back side let's

try to do the bottom

throttle linkage is back on really

important the

choke linkage is back on put that on

before you bolt it down it makes it

super easy for that one

double check everything is moving

there's choke

throttle choke is supposed to

choke engages with the throttle valve

that's good

throttle all the way open that's good

i think everything is good

all right i sure hope

that she starts after taking the carb

off

i didn't notice one issue the bowl of

the carb

can go two different ways um

and it can bolts up two different ways

and

the screw holes still line up i think i

put it on

backwards so hopefully it doesn't cause

a problem it looks like that gasket

is symmetrical so it doesn't matter the

only issue is

the drain plug on the carbon is facing

inward towards the motor i can't get to

it so

i'm going to try to start it once i get

everything put back together

and hopefully it doesn't cause any

problems hopefully that doesn't leak

i'll keep an eye out for that

but next time i clean it out i'll

remember to to move that back over so

we'll get it all back together and see

if she'll start i'm to change the lower

end unit gear oil do that every 100

hours do this once a season definitely

before you store it for the winter

sometimes

if you have a bad seal water will get in

your oil in the lowering unit and when

it freezes over the winter it will crack

and

definitely not a good thing to crack the

lower end unit here

is the oil level port here is the fill

and

drain port here it's important that you

fill from this

lower port because that helps push all

the air up out of here when you're

filling it with oil there's a lot of

pockets around the gears

and by pushing the oil from the bottom

up it pushes all that air out

if you have the bottom bottom plug in

and you fill from the top

sometimes it'll keep those air pockets

in place so always good to feel from the

bottom that's what it's there for

it's what it's meant to do first step is

to

break loose the whole port and then

we'll break loose the bottom

drain and fill port

we want to keep this guy in because when

we pull this

out that will prevent it from venting

and that will hold the oil in until we

get that plug out all the way

and we can get a bucket under there i'm

going to take the lower

plug out

so you can see it's holding it pretty

well now i'll take this out and i'll

start flowing

all right we got all flowing now all

right that is all drained out

sample the oil make sure there's no

metal shavings

make sure there's no water that is

beautiful

going to put the gear oil

into the lower port and then we're going

to squeeze until we see it coming out of

the upper and then we'll put the plug in

to create a kind of a suction printed

from venting and draining out

all right keep filling all right it's

coming out see those air bubbles and get

those air bubbles out

put this guy back on

amazing too much

tighten this down want to get pretty

snug

one thing you don't want to do though is

you don't want this to suck back out

because if this sucks back out you're

going to suck all

back down and then what i do at the end

i just kind of

top it off a little bit

once you got the plugs back in give it a

wipe

look for any leaks

key points for replacing the lower end

unit oil

want to do it before winter just in case

you have water you want to feel from the

bottom always to make sure you push all

the air pockets up if you're using a

tube like i am once you get all

out of that level port there make sure

you don't let go with that tube where

it's going to suck the oil down you're

going to think there's all in there but

it's going to end up back in the

back in the um the tuba gear oil when

you're done filling from the bottom

you either got to be quick and put the

bottom one back in or

you put the top one in that will prevent

it from venting and that will buy you a

little bit more time

to put the bottom one in without all the

oil rushing out

overall pretty simple i would recommend

investing

in a pump that way you can pump see it

coming out

keep pressure on there you've got a pump

it'll stay down in position keep

pressure there won't be any suction that

you got to worry about

so overall pretty simple now we just put

some grease on some fittings

and call it a day

so bracket swivel fittings here

and here

i'm gonna put some on the transom clamp

screws just literally right on the

screws

put a little grease on the shift detent

now put a little grease on the shift

pivot point

all right guys we finally finished all

those maintenance activities

i'm a bit nervous i'm hoping that she

will start i've never tore down a car

before and cleaned it

never had a lower end unit off like that

before so

hopefully she will turn over got some

fresh gas in there

get the choke out let's give it a shot

i'm nervous

all right problem

the props turning

when i pull the pull cord that means i'm

out of position

with the shift linkage

all right i gotta figure this out

what what what what what

what what what what what all right i'm

gonna take this guy off

and then adjust that coupling to be in a

position

where neutral is neutral

right now when i put it in neutral on

the motor side the lower end is going to

be in

forward all right

all right figured out what it was

i kept saying don't change gears don't

change gears when you got your

linkage decoupled something happened and

i changed gears and

when the lower end unit was in neutral

the upper end was in reverse

so i had to you can manually

push and pull this up and down that

right there

to change the gears of the lower end

unit

so undo this coupling you can push and

pull this here

to change the gears to get them to match

up again so

should work but the problem is when i

was pulling the pull cord when it was in

ford

i cracked my bucket so now i gotta get

it

find a new bucket before we can try this

guy out

all right be back in a minute vape

the best hopefully it'll hold just

enough for me to

for me to try try this guy out again

all right and we're back got the whole

shift issue figured out now we're going

to give it a start

hey

maybe maybe you just need to get some

gas through that carb

maybe just needed to get some gas

through that carb maybe

i don't know all i know is how the fuel

lines were empty when i drained it

so i'm going to try it again this time

to see if it'll start

first pull nope

try one more time

hey buddy

yeah hey

side went pretty good sad a little bit

better than it was

seems like

well that's it she's running

first pull after i got it started

pretty pleased we'll see now

cold start now that the car is full of

gas next time my cold started see how

many pulls it takes

but overall she's running

all right we've got it out for the first

time since the

maintenance activities and she's running

great

i was worried with the whole issues i

had when i tried to start it in the

bucket but man she's doing great

honestly i think one of the biggest

things

is the prop edge filing because

performance has increased and honestly

the spark plug and that

crop edge filing are the two things that

i think

probably have the biggest impact on

performance

but i was getting some cavitation issues

at full rpm

but now i haven't had one issue at all

all day

so i'm planning out really well

everything is going pretty good started

on the third pole

starts on the first pole now

that she's warmed up every single time

so pretty pleased

about 16 right now 16 miles an hour

so

appreciate the views as always

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why oh why

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my stuck between