Fashion Buyer and What is a Trend Forecaster | S1, E4 | Future of Fashion | British Vogue

Summary

In this episode of 'Fashion Detective,' Alexa Chong explores the world of trend forecasting and meets Paul Smith, who has kept his brand relevant for over 45 years. She learns about the various roles within the fashion industry, including buyer Jud Crane at Selfridges, who shares insights into creating store environments. Trend forecasting's impact on fashion is discussed, with a focus on how global influences shape future trends. The episode also touches on the DIY culture in fashion and the rise of individual creators, hinting at a shift towards more personalized and accessible styles.

Takeaways

• 😀 Paul Smith has kept his fashion brand relevant for over 45 years by embracing change and moving with the times.
• 👔 The fashion industry offers a variety of creative jobs beyond just designing, including buying, press, social media, shop design, and management.
• 🚴‍♂️ Paul Smith's initial interest in fashion was sparked by a racing cyclist suit, leading to a career in fashion after an accident.
• 👗 The role of a buyer involves selecting items to sell based on personal taste and market trends, aiming to create an environment for customers.
• 🌟 Trend forecasting involves looking at cultural influences from various fields to predict how fashion will evolve in the future.
• 🌐 WGSN is a global leader in trend forecasting, providing valuable insights to thousands of brands worldwide.
• 🎨 Fashion is deeply emotional and personal, used to express identity and create a persona, making it an art form for many.
• 📈 The influence of fashion has shifted from top-down (elite designers) to peer-to-peer, with social media playing a significant role.
• 👖 The role of a trend forecaster involves researching and compiling information from various sources, including retail, catwalks, and social media.
• 🌱 The fashion industry is experiencing a DIY shift, allowing individuals to create their own trends and styles, reflecting a broader cultural change.

Q & A

What is the role of a trend forecaster in the fashion industry?

A trend forecaster identifies and analyzes emerging trends across various cultural influences such as street fashion, food, cars, and more. They collect and present this information to customers, helping to set a backdrop for how fashion will develop in the future.

How does Paul Smith maintain the relevance of his brand?

Paul Smith maintains the relevance of his brand by embracing the new and moving along with the times. He encourages young people to explore various roles within the fashion industry beyond just design, highlighting the many creative paths available.

What advice does Paul Smith give to young people interested in fashion?

Paul Smith advises young people to be open to various roles within the fashion industry, not just focusing on becoming designers. He emphasizes the importance of being creative and exploring different areas such as buying, press, social media, and shop design.

What is the significance of the role of a buyer in fashion retail?

The role of a buyer is significant as they are responsible for selecting products that will appeal to customers. They need to have a good understanding of customer preferences and market trends to make successful selections.

How does Jud Crane, the director of women's wear and accessories, describe her job?

Jud Crane describes her job as seeing things she loves and buying them so that other people can buy them. She also mentions the importance of creating an environment for the customer by challenging brands to think differently about their portrayal in the store.

What is the importance of emotional connection in fashion according to the script?

The script highlights that fashion is not just about image; it's about identity, how one feels, and creating a persona. It's an emotional art form that allows people to express personal aspects through what they wear.

How has the influence of fashion changed with the rise of social media and peer influence?

The influence of fashion has shifted from being top-down, dictated by designers, to being more peer-to-peer influenced. Social media has played a significant role in this change, as it allows trends to spread quickly and makes it harder for anything to remain underground.

What does the script suggest about the future of fashion in terms of individual creativity?

The script suggests that the future of fashion is moving towards more individual creativity and DIY culture. People are creating their own careers, whether as bloggers or online shop owners, and have the means to communicate their style to others.

What is the process of trend forecasting as described in the script?

The process of trend forecasting involves looking at cultural influences from various sources like street fashion, food, cars, and more. Trend forecasters collect this information and present it to customers to help them anticipate future fashion developments.

How does the script describe the evolution of fashion from an elitist industry to a more inclusive one?

The script describes the evolution of fashion as moving from an elitist industry, where trends were dictated by a few, to a more inclusive one where individuals have the power to create and share their own styles through various platforms, reflecting a broader range of influences.

Outlines

00:00

👔 Inside the World of Fashion with Paul Smith

Alexa Chong, a fashion detective, explores the fashion industry, focusing on the role of a trend forecaster and the work behind the Paul Smith brand. She visits Paul Smith's headquarters, where a young team works under the guidance of Paul himself. The room contains spring/summer men's clothes and accessories for the next year. Alexa expresses her love for the designs, and Paul shares his journey from a racing cyclist dream to a shop assistant and eventually meeting his wife who trained in couture fashion. He emphasizes the importance of cut and shape in clothing, and how he started with a small collection for men and later expanded to women. Alexa and Paul discuss the evolution of the brand and the various roles within the fashion industry, including buying, press, social media, and management. Paul advises aspiring designers to be open to different roles and to embrace change, as fashion is about today and tomorrow.

05:01

🛍️ The Life of a Fashion Buyer with Jud Crane

Jud Crane, the director of women's wear and accessories at Selfridges' Oxford Street store, discusses the role of a buyer in fashion. He explains that buyers select items they love with the intent of other people buying them, creating an environment for customers. Jud talks about the importance of understanding customer preferences and the emotional connection to fashion. He mentions that buyers come from various backgrounds, such as personal shopping, and that it's crucial to be objective and separate personal taste from what sells. The conversation highlights the emotional aspect of fashion and how it's more than just image; it's about identity and self-expression. The discussion also touches on how technology and innovative thinking have given birth to new industries, changing the face of fashion, with trend forecasting being a key example.

10:03

🌐 The Impact of Social Media on Fashion Trends

The script discusses the influence of social media on fashion trends, noting that street style and peer influence have become more significant than traditional designer dictates. It suggests a shift towards a DIY culture in fashion, where individuals create their own styles and careers, often online. The conversation reflects on how younger generations are less constrained by traditional paths and are more influenced by their peers and social media. The script also mentions a change in the fashion industry, with new and interesting designers emerging, possibly marking a new era in fashion. The narrative ends with a teaser for the next episode, which will be in Paris, discussing film with the creator of Dior and exploring unique Parisian brands.

Keywords

💡Trend Forecaster

A trend forecaster is an individual who predicts future fashion trends by analyzing various cultural influences, consumer behavior, and market data. In the video, trend forecasting is discussed as a pivotal role within the fashion industry, with the example of WGSN, a company that collects and presents information on global trends to its clients, helping them to anticipate and shape the future of fashion.

💡Fashion Industry

The fashion industry encompasses the design, manufacturing, and retail of clothing, accessories, and footwear. The video delves into the inner workings of this industry, highlighting the diverse roles and creative processes involved, such as trend forecasting, buying, and design, which contribute to its dynamic and ever-evolving nature.

💡Paul Smith

Paul Smith is a renowned British fashion designer known for his distinctive and innovative approach to fashion. In the script, he is presented as a successful figure who has kept his brand relevant for over 45 years, showcasing his ability to adapt and innovate within the fashion industry. His story illustrates the importance of creativity and business acumen in fashion.

💡Cultural Influences

Cultural influences refer to the various societal and cultural factors that shape fashion trends. The video mentions how trend forecasters consider a wide array of cultural elements, from street fashion to global events, to predict what will be popular in the future. For instance, the opening of Cuba to tourism is cited as an influence on fashion trends.

💡Fashion System

The fashion system refers to the interconnected network of professionals, processes, and institutions that make up the fashion industry. The video emphasizes that there are numerous career paths within this system, beyond just being a designer, such as buying, press, social media, and shop design, each playing a crucial role in the industry's functioning.

💡Creative Jobs

Creative jobs in the fashion industry are not limited to design roles. The video script highlights various positions that require creativity, such as visual merchandising, personal shopping, and trend forecasting. These roles allow individuals to express their creativity and contribute to the fashion industry in unique ways.

💡Fashion Buying

Fashion buying involves selecting and purchasing fashion items for retail sale. The video introduces Jud Crane, a buyer at Selfridges, who explains the role involves a combination of personal taste and understanding customer preferences. Buying is portrayed as a critical function that shapes the retail environment and influences consumer choices.

💡Street Fashion

Street fashion represents the clothing and fashion trends that emerge from everyday people and their styles, as opposed to those dictated by high fashion designers. The video acknowledges the growing influence of street fashion on mainstream trends, reflecting a shift in the fashion industry's power dynamics towards a more democratic and peer-influenced landscape.

💡Fashion Technology

Fashion technology refers to the use of technological advancements in the fashion industry, from design and production to marketing and sales. The video touches on how technology has enabled new ways of working and self-expression in fashion, such as DIY culture and online platforms for independent designers and retailers.

💡DIY Fashion

DIY fashion is a trend where individuals create their own clothing and accessories, often as a form of self-expression and to reflect personal style. The video suggests that the fashion industry is moving towards a more DIY-oriented approach, empowering individuals to take control of their fashion choices and create unique styles.

Highlights

Introduction to the role of a trend forecaster in the fashion industry.

Paul Smith discusses keeping his brand relevant for over 45 years.

The importance of a multi-talented team in driving a fashion brand forward.

Paul Smith's personal journey from a racing cyclist dream to a fashion icon.

The significance of cut and shape in fashion design.

Paul Smith's advice to young people on diverse career paths within fashion.

The role of curiosity in staying current in the fashion industry.

Jud Crane's perspective on the buyer's role in fashion retail.

The impact of visual merchandising on buyer's decisions.

The emotional connection between fashion and identity.

How technology and innovative thinking have transformed trend forecasting.

The process of collecting and analyzing global trends for fashion.

The influence of cultural phenomena on fashion trends.

The role of social media in shaping fashion trends and peer influence.

The rise of DIY culture and its impact on the fashion industry.

The shift towards individuality and self-expression in fashion.

The changing landscape of fashion careers and the opportunities for young designers.

Transcripts

me again Alexa Chong fashion detective

delving deep behind the seams it was a

pun to show you the truth about the

fashion industry and the amazing people

who work in it in this episode I'm

finding out what a trend forecaster is

and trying not to steal things from Paul

[Music]

Smith having kept his classic brand

relevant for over 45 years Paul has

succeeded where many others have

failed so people in fashion are really

sane at business HQ in koven Garden a

young and talented team work under the

ever enthusiastic guidance of the man

himself driving the brand forward into a

bright future what is this room then

this is spring spring next year uh men's

clothes and accessories I love this I

love that and all that all

the that's my jam that's my jam peace

this is my suit to

[Music]

traveling Bravo look at that oh it makes

me want to be a

boy check your bags on the way

out look they from my garden are they

yeah I wanted to be a racing cyclist

right you know and uh it never happened

uh because I had a bad crash and then I

ended up uh meeting people from the art

school in Nottingham and then I worked

as a shop assistant and then I met a

lady who became my girlfriend and now my

wife and she trained at the raw College

of Art in Couture fashion right and so

that was fantastic so all my teaching

was uh at home on the kitchen table you

know uh how to cut a pattern how to you

know put a sleeve in and the importance

of cut and shape and at 21 I saw s Lon

the first the first smoking suit when

they walked on and went like that and

there was little boobies underneath and

it was like because it was very you know

shocking at the time uh we started a

little collection I mean lit literally

two jackets for shirts for men to start

with and then about 20 years ago for

women people refer to Paul Smith as

brand and I it's a bit weird for me yeah

I say well yeah am i Brand yeah yeah

he's WR my Underpants but I mean well

I'm my watch actually do young people

approach you and ask you're advice all

the time yeah so what what's what do

they want to know when I walk around the

building with like the students you know

I said first of all you all might want

to be designers but in a way get that

out of your head because as you walk

around the building I'm going to show

you lots of lovely jobs you can do with

that skill there's buying there's press

there's uh social media there's shop

design there's styling there's

management there so many great jobs you

can get if you go through that fashion

system yeah yeah and they're still

creative you're still like very creative

yeah very

creative part of your success has been

down to the fact that you've always

embraced the new and you you've moved

along with the times but is that

something that just comes naturally to

you as a person you just excited about

I'm very curious person whereas a lot of

people I think they they start they

leave a university or college and then

they have this look and then it goes on

and on and unfortunately a lot of them

don't really change from it and then

that's when it starts to get difficult

because you know fashion is about today

and tomorrow you've never made it

[Music]

basically I've always liked the idea of

being a buyer getting paid to shop with

someone else's credit card sounds like a

pretty amazing job to me our Google

results suggested it is now one of the

most desirable positions within fashion

but what is it that these mysterious

people actually do at self's Oxford

Street store Jud crane is living the

dream as director of women's wear and

accessories

obsessive clothes it's like a problem

you can suggest things for me to buy and

I'll tell you I can't afford them is

this in the sale be honest no it's brand

new I just love everything I just love

it so it's a bit of a mystery to me what

your job is can you explain what you

do well I guess at a very basic level we

just see things we love and we buy them

so that other people can buy them and

then how do you decide which brands go

next to the other one do they have rules

where some Brands might not want to sit

alongside another competitor well

everyone has ideas of where they want to

be but ultimately what we're interested

in is creating an environment for the

customer so a lot of times we challenge

Our Brands to really think differently

about how they could be portrayed where

a store that has Chanel just directly

across from Rick Owens which you don't

really see in in many environments but

for us the idea of of putting those two

together is that we actually find it

stimulates both of those customers I

actually think think the best way to

gain experience to be a good buyer is to

not become a buyer directly you know I

think to have a background in visual

merchandising or or a background um

actually working with customers we we

have a few buyers that have come from

personal shopping because because they

actually get really really close to what

customers want it's literally my dream

job I think actually my taste in things

isn't reflective of what sells that's a

really interesting thing about it is

it's really interesting to try to force

yourself to be objective yeah because it

kind of has nothing to do with what you

want to wear what in terms of what what

might sell however I think it's so

important to have that thing that just

hits you emotionally because it will hit

other people too you're touching on what

we're talking about in a broader sense

which is that fashion has a reputation

for being like shallow and all about

image and D but actually when you get to

it the reason people are interested in

the reason people have jobs uh within

this industry is because it is emotional

for everyone it's about identity it's

how you feel it's about creating a

Persona and I think it's really an art

form for some people and you're kind of

like expressing things that that are

intrinsically personal by by what you

wear these are people's lives hanging

out here exactly

exactly when Innovative thinking and

Technology combine new Industries are

born that changed the face of fashion

forever and in the late '90s Trend

forecasting did exactly that Global

Powerhouse wgsn pioneered the market

turning the potential trends of the

future into a highly valuable commodity

hello everyone's looking at

asses essentially what we're doing is

Trend forecasting so we are going around

the world looking at all sorts of

cultural influences from Street fashion

what's going on in food cars whatever it

may be collecting all of that um

information presenting it to our

customers and using that to kind of set

a backdrop for how fashion will develop

in the future because all of those

things influence the way people want to

dress so essentially it's a website yeah

and we have you know several thousand

Brands around the world that subscribe

to our website and they all use it in

many and varied ways and they're looking

at um fashion trends so we design we are

designing fashion Collections and

they're looking at that they're looking

at catwalks they're looking at Street

fashion they're looking at retail Trends

we go around the world and look at

what's going on in shops and explain

that to people it's a really enormous

resource for passion if I'm thinking

about what's about to happen or how I'd

like to get dressed anything that makes

me feel a bit sick or a bit weird is

something that I'm drawn to and then

that's usually because it's different to

what I'm accustomed to often with a

Christopher Kane collection I don't know

why him in particular but it'll come

down and I'll be like I mean I can

appreciate that it's great but I don't

necessarily want to wear it yet and then

suddenly when that season rolls around I

think it's so perfect for how I feel at

the time it's clever like that sometimes

I look at some of the things that we do

and just think are we sure about this

yeah but you trust them because actually

at the time that it's ready to drop

you're ready for it you know and you

think oh know they're right I feel like

wearing that you know it's

[Music]

interesting and this is men's Trends

this men's trends for for when spring

summer 17 oh my God okay yeah and so

where do you collect ideas from

everywhere really it's not just like one

specific area we go to we look across

the boards it's not just fashion it's

like what influences fashion as well as

like music or subcultures or it girls it

guys films like you said earlier the

biggest influence on this is partly to

do with Cuba the fact it's open of

course yeah and obviously there's a huge

influx of Tourism to to Cuba so then

when you see that type of influence on

or in shops and in you know the world as

you go out are you you feel proud yeah

of course cool

Cuba this is Sam who is the denim dude

Hi how are you dude nice to meet you so

this is even your mouse is all my denim

memor you're responsible for compiling

this entire yeah everything from like

retail I do through to like catwalks

what we're doing right now which is like

the men's ss16 ones um we do trade shows

um street style it's obiously design and

stuff they're looking around on other

parts of like the internet as well but

we're doing that like specifically for

each category so I'm looking at

everything then I'm across like

Instagram like Pinterest tumblers and

I'm always looking for like new brand

say like Bliss and mystery if i' put

them like on the blog as well which is

like public site so it's not um just

like you don't have to have subscription

to that and then I do like an interview

with the brand as well to try and give

them like some exposure so very good as

long as you're looking off yeah there's

no way at school I would have known that

this was a job option it's so fun do you

taking

turns fashion used to be really top down

it used to be whatever somebody in Paris

said it was that was what it was you

know and now you know it is kids on the

street is that from social media as well

it is it is and and they are much more

influenced peer-to-peer than they would

be from what any cure designer would

tell them you know it's more important

what their mates think it's harder to be

that underground because there's always

somebody you know communicating that and

tweeting it and instagramming it

whatever it is it gets out there much

quicker so the influence spreads much

but then does that lend itself to the

fashion industry kind of moving into a

more do it yourself yeah like a DIY

situation rather than it being this

elitist thing it is do you think it's an

opportunity for people to kind of do a

homegrown thing I think that's

absolutely right and we were just

talking about that it's almost DIY life

right now you know um if people much

younger than me you know when I was

growing up you had to get your degree

and and people were just sort of shoving

you in a direction where you had to kind

of go to a big organization and get a

proper job and then people were telling

you how to dress

doesn't work like that now you know

people don't feel the same constraints

they will decide create their own

careers and that might be online they

might be bloggers they might have their

own little shop online they might create

their own fashion create their own music

and they've got means of communicating

that to other people that were just not

open to us and you're seeing all these

new and interesting designers coming up

a real change of guard I think at the

moment and I think perhaps maybe we will

be looking back and thinking that was

when that started

[Music]

I can't count but I think that was

episode 4 um if you'd like to watch

episode 5 subscribe to the British vog

YouTube channel and it will be laid out

for you you just have to go as a click

don't use the mouse next I head to Paris

to talk film with the creator of Dior

and I and meet the minds behind two

unique Parisian brands also it was an

opportunity to eat crons