PMU Needle Cartridge Theory Course | Extensive In Depth Knowledge | Cosmedic Supplies

Summary

In this informative video, Georgie, a co-founder of Cosmetic Supplies, offers an in-depth tutorial on needle theory for cosmetic tattooing. She explains the impact of needle diameter, tapers, length, and configuration on pigment flow and skin interaction. Georgie advises on needle selection for precision work and shading, emphasizing the importance of working within the skin's 'sweet spot' to avoid complications like pigment migration. She also covers machine settings and needle movement techniques, providing valuable insights for both novice and experienced cosmetic tattoo artists.

Takeaways

• 🧬 The diameter of a needle affects pigment flow; a narrower diameter is better for precision work like hair strokes and outlining.
• 📏 The taper of a needle, which is the length of the needle tip, influences the pixel size in the skin and is crucial for achieving desired color saturation and trauma level.
• 🌐 Shorter tapers are better for shading and blending due to larger pixel size and higher color saturation, while longer tapers are ideal for precision work with less trauma.
• ⚖️ Needle density, or the number of needles in a cartridge, impacts pigment implantation speed and skin saturation, but requires careful monitoring to prevent over-saturation.
• 🔩 Needle configuration, or how needles are grouped in a cartridge, affects control, accuracy, and pigment delivery, with different configurations suitable for various skin types and procedures.
• 🔪 Round liner needles, both tightly packed and singular, offer precision but can penetrate deeper than desired, requiring cautious use by experienced artists.
• 🎨 Round shader needles are versatile and safe for most skin types, providing a good balance between pigment delivery and minimizing skin trauma.
• 🖌️ Magnum needles are effective for quick color delivery and blending but should be used with caution to avoid over-saturation and pigment migration.
• 🍀 Acupuncture needles have a less traumatic entry due to their round tip, making them less painful and causing less bruising and swelling.
• 📏 Needle length is critical; too long can cause pigment spray and irritation, while too short can lead to pigment spillage and tearing.
• 📍 The optimal tattooing depth is between the epidermis and dermis layers, avoiding both superficial and too deep placements that can lead to poor pigment retention and blowouts.
• ⚙️ Machine settings such as stroke length and speed significantly affect the impact on the skin and the amount of pigment implanted, requiring synchronization with hand speed for optimal results.

Q & A

What is the main topic of Georgie's video?

The main topic of Georgie's video is needle theory in cosmetic tattooing, covering aspects such as needle diameter, tapers, needle length, configuration, movement, and depth.

How does the diameter of a needle affect pigment flow?

The diameter of a needle affects the flow of pigment; a narrower diameter results in a finer and more controlled pigment flow, making it ideal for precision work like hair strokes and outlining.

What is the significance of needle taper in cosmetic tattooing?

The taper of a needle, which is the length of the needle tip, contributes greatly to the dot or pixel size in the skin. A shorter taper creates a larger pixel size and causes more trauma and color saturation, making it ideal for shading and blending, while a longer taper is better for precision work.

Why are shorter tapered needles more suitable for semi-permanent makeup (SPMU)?

Shorter tapered needles are more suitable for SPMU because, although they can be more traumatic to the skin, they are less sharp than longer tapered needles, making them more appropriate for sensitive and delicate skin types.

How does the number of needles in a cartridge affect the pigment implantation?

The more needles present within a cartridge, the more pigment is implanted due to the increased surface area. This can lead to quicker saturation of the skin with fewer passes, but requires careful monitoring to control pigment implantation.

What is the impact of needle configuration on tattooing?

Needle configuration affects control and accuracy in tattooing. It influences how pigment is delivered and how the needles hit and penetrate the skin, which can vary based on the grouping of needles within the cartridge.

Why should round liner needles be used with caution?

Round liner needles should be used with caution because they are very sharp and can penetrate deeper into the skin than desired, potentially causing more trauma. They are best used by more experienced artists who can control the depth accurately.

What are the benefits of using round shader needles?

Round shader needles are beneficial for sensitive skin types as they are less sharp and cause less trauma. They are versatile, safe to use, and can be used for both packing in color and creating a haze of color.

How do magnum needles differ from other needles in terms of pigment delivery?

Magnum needles, which are two stacked and straight rows of needles, are great for blending and shading, and can deliver a lot of color very quickly. They usually have a long taper and should be used with caution to avoid over-saturation and pigment migration.

What is the 'sweet spot' in cosmetic tattooing and why is it important?

The 'sweet spot' in cosmetic tattooing is the optimal depth between the epidermis and the dermis where the tattoo should be applied. It is important because working within this layer prevents pigment migration, scarring, and blowouts, ensuring a better final result.

How does the angle of needle insertion affect the tattooing process?

The angle of needle insertion should be at 90 degrees to the curvature of the area being tattooed. Incorrect angles, either below or above 90 degrees, can cause trauma, scarring, pigment migration, and blowouts.

What is the relationship between machine speed and hand speed in cosmetic tattooing?

The machine speed and hand speed should be matched to achieve the desired result. A low machine speed should be paired with a slow hand speed for a sheer result, while a high machine speed should be matched with a fast hand speed for dense, unsaturated results like hair strokes.

Outlines

00:00

🧑‍⚕️ Needle Theory Basics

This paragraph introduces Georgie, a co-founder of Cosmetic Supplies, who will guide viewers through the fundamentals of needle theory in cosmetic tattooing. Key points include the definition of needle diameter and its impact on pigment flow, with narrower diameters being better for precision work. The taper, or needle tip length, is also discussed, explaining how it affects pixel size and color saturation in the skin. Shorter tapers are ideal for shading, while longer ones are better for precision. The paragraph also touches on needle configuration, the number of needles in a cartridge, and the importance of selecting the right needle type for semi-permanent makeup, considering skin sensitivity and the desired depth of pigment implantation.

05:02

📏 Needle Configurations and Skin Interaction

This section delves deeper into the specifics of needle configurations, such as round liner, round shader, and magnum needles, and how they affect pigment delivery and skin penetration. It emphasizes the importance of using the right needle for the right skin type to avoid trauma and ensure proper pigment saturation. The paragraph also discusses the use of acupuncture needles for less traumatic procedures and the significance of needle length in achieving the desired depth of pigmentation. It highlights the potential issues of working too deep or too shallow in the skin layers and the importance of working within the 'sweet spot' between the epidermis and dermis for optimal results.

10:03

🎨 Depth and Technique in Semi-Permanent Makeup

This paragraph focuses on the technical aspects of performing semi-permanent makeup, including the auditory and tactile cues that indicate the needle is working within the optimal skin layer. It explains the concept of the 'sweet spot' and how to avoid causing a 'blowout' by working too deep. The discussion also includes the correct angle for needle insertion, which is crucial for minimizing trauma and achieving even pigmentation. Common needle movements such as pendulum and whip shading are mentioned, along with the importance of using the correct stroke length and machine speed to control the depth and density of pigment implantation.

15:04

⚙️ Machine Settings and Their Impact on Tattooing

The final paragraph discusses the impact of machine settings on the tattooing process, specifically the relationship between machine speed and hand speed. It explains how low machine speeds with slow hand speeds result in less pigment implantation and less trauma, leading to a sheerer result. Conversely, high machine speeds with fast hand speeds are recommended for dense, unsaturated results, such as hair strokes. The paragraph concludes with a reminder to match the correct hand speed with the machine speed to achieve the desired outcome and a call to action for viewers to engage with the channel and ask questions.

Keywords

💡Needle Theory

Needle Theory refers to the comprehensive understanding of how different needle attributes affect the process and outcome of tattooing or semi-permanent makeup application. In the video, it is the central theme, covering various aspects such as diameter, tapers, needle length, and configuration. The script discusses how these elements influence pigment flow, precision, and skin interaction, which is crucial for achieving the desired cosmetic effect.

💡Diameter

The term 'diameter' in the context of the video refers to the width of the needle at its widest point, which is the shaft. It is important because it impacts the flow of pigment; a narrower diameter allows for a finer and more controlled pigment flow, making it ideal for precision work like hair strokes and outlining. The script emphasizes that a larger diameter needle will increase color saturation but requires careful handling to avoid over-saturation.

💡Taper

Taper describes the length of the needle tip and is a critical feature influencing the 'dot' or 'pixel' size in the skin. A shorter taper results in a larger pixel size and causes more trauma and color saturation, making it suitable for shading and blending. Conversely, a longer taper creates a smaller pixel size, causes less trauma, and is ideal for precision work. The script illustrates that the choice of taper is essential for achieving the desired depth and look in cosmetic procedures.

💡Needle Length

Needle length is a vital parameter that determines how deep the pigment is implanted into the skin. If the needle is too long, it can cause irritation and poor pigment retention, while a needle that is too short can lead to pigment spillage and tearing. The video script explains that the needle length should be appropriate to ensure pigment is delivered effectively without causing unnecessary trauma to the skin.

💡Configuration

Configuration refers to how the needles are grouped within the cartridge, affecting control, accuracy, and pigment delivery. The script mentions that different configurations, such as round liner needles or round shader needles, offer various benefits and drawbacks. The choice of configuration is crucial for the artist to control the amount of pigment implanted and to achieve the desired cosmetic result.

💡Pixel Size

Pixel size, as used in the script, is analogous to the 'dot' size created by the needle in the skin. It is influenced by the taper of the needle; a shorter taper results in a larger pixel size, while a longer taper results in a smaller one. The pixel size affects the final appearance of the cosmetic procedure, with larger pixels suitable for shading and smaller pixels for detailed, precise work.

💡Pigment Flow

Pigment flow relates to how the colorant moves through the needle and into the skin. The script explains that the diameter of the needle affects the pigment flow; a narrower diameter provides a more controlled flow, which is essential for precision work like hair strokes, while a larger diameter allows for a denser color saturation.

💡Semi-Permanent Makeup (SPMU)

Semi-Permanent Makeup, or SPMU, is a cosmetic technique that involves implanting pigment into the skin to create long-lasting makeup effects. The video script discusses the use of specific needle types and configurations for SPMU, emphasizing the importance of selecting the right needle for different skin types and desired outcomes to minimize trauma and achieve natural-looking results.

💡Trauma

In the context of the video, 'trauma' refers to the injury or damage caused to the skin during the tattooing or SPMU process. The script explains that different needle types and configurations can cause varying levels of trauma. It is essential to minimize trauma to prevent pigment migration, discoloration, and other adverse effects on the skin.

💡Pigment Migration

Pigment migration is a phenomenon where the implanted pigment moves from its intended location within the skin, often resulting in a blurred or uneven appearance. The video script warns against the risk of pigment migration when using certain needle configurations, particularly those that can implant pigment too quickly or deeply, leading to over-saturation and potential discoloration.

💡Blowout

A 'blowout' in the video script refers to a situation where the pigment is implanted too deeply, causing it to migrate and resulting in a dark, blurry, and potentially discolored appearance. It is a significant issue to avoid in cosmetic procedures, as it can lead to unsatisfactory results and requires careful control of needle depth and pigment implantation.

Highlights

Introduction to needle theory for cosmetic tattooing by Georgie, co-founder of Cosmetic Supplies.

Explanation of needle diameter and its impact on pigment flow and precision work.

The importance of needle taper and its role in dot size and color saturation in skin.

Advantages of shorter tapered needles for shading and blending despite causing more trauma.

Suitable use of medium and long tapered needles for semi-permanent makeup.

Insight on needle configuration and its effects on pigment implantation and skin trauma.

The significance of the number of needles in a cartridge for pigment saturation and skin passes.

Discussion on round liner needles for precision and control, with a caution for experienced use only.

Benefits of round shader needles for sensitive skin types and their versatility in pigment application.

Magnum needles for quick color delivery and blending, with a warning about potential over-saturation.

Comparison between acupuncture needles and traditional tattoo needles in terms of trauma and pigment delivery.

The U-shaped needle's unique design for less traumatic skin entry and effective color application.

Importance of needle length in achieving proper pigment implantation and avoiding skin irritation.

Understanding the skin's layers and the optimal 'sweet spot' for tattooing between the epidermis and dermis.

Techniques for identifying the 'sweet spot' through auditory and tactile feedback during tattooing.

Consequences of working too deep in the skin, leading to pigment migration and blowouts.

The correct angle for cosmetic tattooing to minimize trauma and ensure proper pigment implantation.

Different needle movements and techniques in cosmetic tattooing, such as pendulum and whip shading.

Clarification on the difference between needle stroke length and needle length, and their impact on tattooing.

The effect of machine speed on needle penetration, pigment implantation, and skin trauma.

Balancing hand speed with machine speed to achieve desired tattoo results and minimize skin damage.

Conclusion and invitation for questions, highlighting the educational value of the video.

Transcripts

[Music]

hi everyone my name is georgie and i'm a

co-founder of cosmetic supplies and

today i'm going to be taking you through

your needle theory we're going to be

discussing everything from diameter to

tapers needle length configuration

movement depth etc i hope it helps and i

hope you enjoy it

the diameter is the width of the needle

at its widest point it's the shaft not

the tip of the needle

the diameter has an effect on the flow

of pigment the narrower the diameter the

finer and more controlled the flow of

pigment will be

thus a needle with a narrower diameter

will be ideal for precision work i.e

hair strokes and outlining work

the density or saturation of colour

increases with a larger diameter size

needle

the taper is the length of the needle

tip

typically the diameter is seen as the

most important feature of a needle but

the taper plays a large part in the

overall result

the taper contributes greatly to the dot

also known as the pixel size in the skin

a shorter taper creates a larger pixel

size as the widest point of the needle

is closer to the tip and therefore

enters the skin at this point

a shorter taper causes more trauma and

more colour saturation

the pigment reaches the skin more

quickly making a shorter tapered needle

more ideal for shading and blending

techniques such as pendular and whip

shading a longer taper creates a smaller

pixel size as the widest point of the

needle is further away from the tip

making the tip of the needle more

pointed and thinner in width

a longer taper causes less trauma and

therefore the colour saturation is less

it takes longer for the pigment to reach

the skin making a longer taper more

ideal for precision work such as hair

strokes and lining work

medium and long tapered needles are best

when performing semi-permanent makeup

so what i'd like you to note that

although a shorter tapered needle so

medium in the case of spmu can

technically be more traumatic to this

skin

they're actually a little bit more

appropriate for more sensitive and

delicate skin types because they don't

tend to be as sharp as longer tapered

needles

the number of needles means how many are

present within the cartridge

the more needles that are present within

the configuration the more pigment that

will be implanted

the amount of pigment embedded

multiplies the more needles that are

present

this means that we can saturate the skin

more quickly with less passes therefore

there is less trauma

although this can be ideal when we are

faced with challenging skin types we

must be aware that the area will

saturate quickly so we need to

constantly assess our results before we

continue working in order to control the

amount of pigment that's implanted

needle configuration means how the

needles are grouped together inside the

cartridge

there are a number of ways needles can

be configured the way the needles are

configured can affect our control and

accuracy it affects the way that pigment

is delivered and how the needles hit and

penetrate the skin

rounds liner needles are either a

configuration of needles that are packed

very tightly together or they are

singular needles

when you work with a configuration that

is so tightly packed together they can

pack in pigment very very quickly

sometimes quicker than what you actually

realize but also they are quite sharp so

they can penetrate deeper than the skin

than what maybe you would like and

although single round liner needles are

excellent they are sort of our safety

needle but also they give you a lot of

control over accuracy

you do lose control with your depth they

are very sharp

i would personally suggest that round

liner needles are used with caution

i would be encouraging more experienced

artists to use them and if you're not

completely confident with the depth that

you're working at and that you're 100

working in your sweet spot i would avoid

using brown liner needles and i would be

more encouraging you to use a round

shader needle

one round lined needles i.e single

needles will provide you with a lot of

control with accuracy when working

but lack of control with depth

the skin's epidermis thickness varies

from client to client and one around

needles have little resistance and can

pull and snag the skin which can cause

significant trauma if used on the wrong

skin type or used incorrectly

they are ideal for precision work but

should be used with caution and by

experienced artists from being used to

shape the skin a multiple configured rl

needle can pack in pigment very quickly

and create a more saturated result

rather than pixelated

when used correctly and on the right

skin type they can be used to shade an

area very quickly and in less passes

than a one rl single needle

round shader needles are multiply

configured needles that are loosely

packed together which means that they

don't pack in pigment incredibly dense

or as dense as an rl needle

they're nowhere near as sharp they're

definitely a little bit blunter so they

are excellent for using on sensitive

skin types those who bleed easily

without causing as much trauma or the

risk of pigment migrating working too

deep or even discoloring in the future

they can be used to pack in a lot of

color or they can be used to create a

haze of color they're diverse they're

safe to use they're excellent i would

encourage everybody to have them in

their clinic round shaded needles are

multiple needles that are loosely

grouped together meaning there is more

space between the needles and therefore

they don't pack in as much pigment as

quickly making them ideal for shading

and blending they're a good choice of

needle and wanting to create a more

subtle result or when working with

sensitive and delicate skin types

magnum needles are two stacked and

straight rows of needles they are great

for blending and shading and also ideal

for delivering a lot of color very very

quickly

they usually have a long taper

they come in both a curved and stacked

structure

curved magnum needles allow for softer

entry to the skin and therefore risk

less trauma

this means that the end needles in the

configuration are shorter and they

create a curved shape stacked magnum

needles are configured more tightly and

deliver more intense results again very

quickly

use these needles with caution as they

can be traumatic to use

so due to the speed that magnum needles

can deliver pigment minimal passes are

required therefore there is less trauma

to the skin

however i would be looking to create a

very sheer and natural result because

you could risk packing in far too much

pigment far too quickly without

realizing the skin only has a certain

amount of space to hold pigment so if

you risk packing in too much

the area is just going to over saturate

the pigments potentially going to

migrate and potentially discolor so do

use them with caution but they are great

when you're in a situation that you

don't want to create a lot of trauma you

don't want to keep going over the skin

it also is going to half your working

time at the speed due to the speed that

they deliver pigment but definitely use

them with caution

the tip of an acupuncture needle is a

billet shape not a cone shape

they are far less traumatic as they have

a much rounder tip and therefore easily

and more softly enter the skin

pigment is delivered more quickly with

less trauma

acupuncture needles cause less pain as

well as less bruising and swelling

a u-shaped needle is similar to a flat

needle

however the outer needles become shorter

and create the unique u-shape

this creates a softer entry to the skin

than a flat needle and can be great for

creating the same desired effect as a

flat needle

but without causing as much trauma

we must also take needle length into

consideration i.e how long the needle is

when the needle is too long pigment

isn't implanting well the skin looks

irritated warm and sore with very little

colour

pigment is spraying onto the skin

you are having to apply too much

pressure to implant pigment

when the needle is too short pigment is

spilling over the area you are working

on

pigment is tearing out very saturated as

the whole taper is entering the skin

the longer the needle is the longer it

takes for the pigment to reach the tip

of the needle which is good for

precision work a shorter needle is good

for saturation

just a little top tip please don't cover

the hole or the vent as it's there to

release the air pressure

there are three main layers of skin

the epidermis the dermis and the

subcutaneous layer

the epidermis is responsible for

protection skin renewal and shedding

the dermis is a stable layer of skin

cells and houses an abundance of blood

vessels

the subcutaneous layer is composed of

fatty tissue and houses veins and

arteries

so if we were to tattoo within the

epidermis only the results would be very

superficial very patchy weak and just

generally quite poor to look at

the pigment isn't going to retain and

we're more likely to cause the scarring

which can look a little bit pink in

color once healed then actually create a

haze of color throughout the area

however if we work too deep into the

skin and we risk working within the

dermis and the subcutaneous tissue the

pigment is going to heal too dark it's

going to discolor it's probably going to

go quite ashy the pigment's probably

going to migrate and you will have

caused something called a blowout

what we need to do is we need to tattoo

right in between the epidermis and the

dermis within our sweet spot

so how do we know when we're working

within the sweet spot you need to tune

into your senses for me it's about being

able to hear something and to be able to

feel something

when i say you need to be able to hear

something you need to be able to hear a

scratch you need to be able to hear that

the needle is penetrating through the

skin

it's not a substantial sound it's the

difference between hearing nothing and

hearing something but you do need to be

able to listen out for that it should

just be a really gentle subtle sound a

gentle scratch when you look like you're

working through the skin but you need to

be able to hear that you're working

through the skin as well

you also need to be able to feel a

change in sensation and what i mean by

that is that when you are working

through the skin you can feel a change

in the sensation the vibration that's

coming up through the handpiece there's

a very subtle change that just raises

through the handpiece and you can feel

it in your tattooing hand you can also

feel it through your stretching fingers

as well so the fingers that you're

stretching with that are resting on the

skin you should be able to feel

a vibration a sensation change coming up

through these fingers too

again it's not um substantial it's just

the difference between not being able to

feel anything and just being able to

feel something but you don't want to

look like you're working again you also

want to be able to feel it so it's

listening and it's feeling and that is

when you should be working within the

sweet spot

some clients are going to bleed but the

majority won't so if you do feel like

you're getting more than just a little

bit of spotting

then you're probably working too deep

into the skin

we want to tattoo between the epidermis

and the dermis within the sweet spot

if we work deeper than this however we

will cause a blowout which is when we

see pigment migration and major trauma

there will be a lot of blood present and

the pigment will look very dark and

blurry in the skin and will only

continue to get darker and blurrier

a blowout is usually the result of

working too deep into the subcutaneous

fatty layer where the pigment cannot sit

still and it therefore migrates

the correct angle to work in spmu is at

90 degrees the incorrect angles are

below or above 90 degrees when assessing

your angle please ensure that you are

working at 90 degrees to the curvature

of the area that you are tattooing

working below 90 degrees in particular

can cause the needle to resist

penetration and work underneath this

skin rather than directly and gently

into it

the incorrect angle will cause trauma

scarring pigment migration color

saturation and blowouts

the typical needle movements are

pendulum whip shading techniques there

are many more but these are your typical

motions and it's important that we are

working at the correct angle

[Music]

hmm

um

[Music]

[Music]

when we refer to needle stroke length we

aren't referring to how

long the needle is we're actually

referring to

um the motor within the handpiece and

how low down the hand piece the motor is

or how high up the motor is

when we talk about a short stroke length

we are talking about a motor that is

very close to the needle

so when the

motor is retracting and pulling back to

be able to then allow the needle to

penetrate and hit the skin it's not

pulling back at such a long distance

it's a short distance so the impact

isn't that hard

when we are talking about a long stroke

length we are talking about a motor that

is higher up in the handpiece therefore

the needle is pulled back at such a

distance that when it hits the skin it

hits the skin a huge impact because of

the longer distance that is being pulled

back by

when you work with a pmu device most of

the time you're working with a medium

stroke length of around two millimeters

so it hits the skin at a nice medium

impact however when you're working with

maybe a rotary device it's usually

a stroke length a longer stroke length

of around three millimeters so that when

it hits the skin it hits the skin at a

much harder impact

this isn't to be confused with depth

it's not

a matter of the needle working deeper

within the skin it's just the impact on

the skin so you do tend to get slightly

more traumatic results with a rotary

device in comparison to your classic pmu

device

a low machine speed means that the

needle penetrates in and out less times

per second i.e the needle pierces the

skin less times per second

this results in less pigment implanted

into the skin and also less trauma the

slower the machine speed the further

apart the pixels are and you will

therefore achieve a more sheer result

a high machine speed means that the

needle penetration increases and enters

the skin several more times per second

the higher the speed is

this results in more pigment being

implanted into the skin and also more

trauma

the faster the speed is the closer

together the pixels are and you will

achieve more dense unsaturated results

it's important to match the correct hand

speed with the correct machine speed we

need the two aspects to work in unison

we want to match at low machine speed

with a slow hand speed if the hand speed

is too fast the needle will not have

enough opportunity or time to penetrate

the skin and implant pigment

the pixels will be very far apart and

more work and passes will be required

resulting in more trauma

a slow hand speed and a low machine

speed will space pixels further apart

rather than overlapped and the results

will be clearly visible individual

pixels and a more sheer result we would

therefore match a high speed setting

with a fast hand speed

if the hand speed was too slow the

needle would over penetrate the skin and

implant too much pigment into one area

the pixels would be too close together

and overlap each other resulting in

oversaturated results and traumatized

skin a fast hand speed and high machine

speed are great to use together when

creating a result such as hair strokes

once again thank you so much for

watching this video i really hope that

it's been very insightful and that

you've learned a lot from it any

questions leave them below you can

contact us at cosmetic supplies you can

follow me on gigi browse uk on instagram

we're here to help and we're looking

forward to hearing from you don't forget

to like and subscribe to my channel and

i will see you all next sunday

[Music]