Sharpen Your Stanley Spokeshave Blade

Summary

In this video, the host demonstrates how to sharpen a Stanley 151 spoke shave blade, a flat blade used for non-wooden spokes. Techniques include using a marker to flatten the blade, honing the bevel with a specific grip, and progressing through various grits of stones. The video also covers adjusting the blade on the Stanley 151 and using a homemade jig for sharpening with a Tormac.

Takeaways

• 🔪 The video is about sharpening a Stanley 151 spoke shave blade, which is a flat blade used for non-wooden spoke shaves.
• 📏 The first step is to flatten the back of the blade using a rough stone, such as a 300-grit stone, to remove all marks and achieve a shiny surface.
• ⏱️ Flattening the back can take up to 5 minutes or even half an hour if the blade is severely out of flatness.
• 📏 For the bevel part, the presenter uses a marker to mark the blade and then sharpens it using a specific grip, with the thumbnail acting as a guide.
• 👍 A proper grip is crucial to avoid over-tilting the blade while sharpening, ensuring a consistent bevel.
• 🔍 The presenter suggests using progressively finer grits, starting from 300 grit and moving up to 1000 grit, then to 6000 grit, to refine the bevel.
• 💧 A 15,000-grit ceramic stone is recommended for achieving a glassy smooth finish, which the presenter found to make a significant difference.
• 🛠️ The presenter demonstrates how to adjust the blade on a Stanley 151 using an adjustable wheel, ensuring the blade protrudes just enough for proper shaving.
• 🔍 Checking the sole of the plane for any hollow or unevenness is important for achieving a consistent shave, and the presenter shows how to flatten the sole using a marker and a rough stone.
• 🛠️ The video also covers how to sharpen the blade using a jig, specifically with a Tormac or similar tool, by creating a simple jig with a bar and a block of wood.
• 🎥 The presenter mentions that the next video will discuss different types of spoke shaves and will reveal their favorite type.

Q & A

What is the purpose of the video?

The purpose of the video is to demonstrate how to sharpen a Stanley 151 spoke shave blade, which is a flat blade used for modern non-wooden spoke shaves.

What is a common issue with using jigs for sharpening the Stanley 151 blade?

A common issue is that jigs are often designed for blades that protrude more, which may not accommodate the shorter blades of the Stanley 151.

What is the first step in sharpening the blade as shown in the video?

The first step is to flatten out the back of the blade using a rough stone, such as a 300-grit stone.

Why is it important to flatten the blade before sharpening the bevel?

Flattening the blade ensures that the entire length of the blade is even and ready for the bevel to be sharpened properly, preventing uneven sharpening.

What technique is used to determine the bevel angle when sharpening the blade?

The video demonstrates using the thumbnail as a wedge to eyeball the bevel angle, ensuring that the blade is held at the correct angle against the sharpening stone.

Why is it recommended to not use the very end part of the blade when sharpening?

The very end part of the blade is typically not used because it may be more difficult to sharpen evenly, and the rest of the blade is usually sufficient for the intended use.

What is the significance of using different grits of stones in the sharpening process?

Using different grits of stones helps to progressively refine the sharpening process, starting with a rough grit to shape the bevel and finishing with a finer grit to polish and refine the edge.

What is the purpose of using a 15,000-grit stone or ceramic stone in the sharpening process?

A 15,000-grit stone or ceramic stone is used to achieve a very fine and smooth edge, almost like glass, which can make a significant difference in the sharpness and performance of the blade.

How can the blade be adjusted on the Stanley 151 spoke shave?

The blade can be adjusted by loosening the screw, positioning the blade so that it protrudes just enough, and then tightening the screw to secure it in place.

What is the purpose of the jig shown in the video for sharpening tools like the Torx or a miter trimmer?

The jig is used to hold the tool at a consistent angle against the sharpening stone, ensuring a precise and even sharpening process without the need for expensive commercial jigs.

What additional tip is given for sharpening carving gouges using the same technique?

The video suggests using the same sharpening technique and jig setup to sharpen carving gouges, using the handle of the tool as a reference for the bevel angle.

Outlines

00:00

🔪 Sharpening a Stanley 151 Spoke Shave Blade

The speaker begins by introducing the process of sharpening a Stanley 151 spoke shave blade, which is a flat blade used for modern non-wooden spoke shaves. They discuss the challenges of using jigs designed for longer blades and mention a jig by Leave Valy that can accommodate shorter blades. The speaker then demonstrates their personal technique for sharpening, starting with flattening the back of the blade using a 300-grit stone. They emphasize the importance of removing all marks and achieving a shiny surface. The process is paused for about 5 minutes, and upon returning, they continue with the bevel part, marking it with a marker and using a specific grip with the thumbnail as a guide. The speaker also discusses the importance of not over-tilting the blade and moves on to finer grits, such as 300-grit and 1000-grit, eventually finishing with a 6000-grit stone.

05:01

📏 Adjusting the Blade and Using a Jig

In this paragraph, the speaker discusses the next steps in sharpening the blade, focusing on the bevel and the use of a high-grit ceramic stone. They mention a friend's recommendation of a 15,000-grit ceramic stone, which they find surprisingly effective. The speaker then moves on to adjusting the blade on the Stanley 151, explaining how to set it up properly and test it for shaving. They note the importance of achieving a thin shaving and address potential issues like hollow ground or unevenness in the sole. The speaker also demonstrates how to use a jig, specifically one made with a Tormac or a knockoff version, to sharpen the blade. They highlight the value of using a jig for sharpening various tools and even suggest using it for sharpening carving gouges.

10:03

🛠️ Final Adjustments and Testing the Blade

The speaker concludes the video script by detailing the final adjustments and testing of the Stanley 151 blade. They discuss the importance of flattening the entire length of the throat and the sides, noting that while extra work could be done, it might not be necessary for their typical use on rounded surfaces. The speaker then shows how to use a jig for sharpening, specifically one made with a bar and a block of wood glued onto it. They demonstrate the process of setting up the jig and using it to sharpen the blade, emphasizing the need for consistency in the holes for effective sharpening. The speaker also mentions the versatility of such jigs for sharpening different tools and ends the video by teasing the next video, which will discuss various types of spoke shaves and their personal favorite.

Keywords

💡Spoke shave blade

A spoke shave blade is a tool used for shaving wood spokes, typically in wheel making. In the video, the Stanley 151 is a specific type of flat blade designed for modern, non-wooden spoke shaves. The video focuses on sharpening this type of blade, which is crucial for maintaining its effectiveness in woodworking.

💡Stanley 151

The Stanley 151 is a model of a spoke shave, a tool used for woodworking. It is mentioned in the video as the specific tool being sharpened. The Stanley 151 is known for its adjustable wheels, which make it versatile and user-friendly, as demonstrated in the script.

💡Flat blade

A flat blade, as mentioned in the video, refers to the design of the spoke shave blade. The Stanley 151 has a flat blade, which is different from other types of blades that might be curved or have other shapes. The flatness of the blade is important for its function in woodworking.

💡Bevel

The bevel is the angle at which the edge of a tool, like a spoke shave blade, is sharpened. In the video, the process of sharpening involves creating a bevel on the blade. The bevel is crucial for the cutting effectiveness of the tool, and the video demonstrates how to accurately create and maintain this angle.

💡Grit

Grit refers to the coarseness of an abrasive surface, such as a stone used for sharpening. The video mentions using different grits, such as 300 grit, 1000 grit, and 6000 grit, to progressively refine the sharpness of the blade. Each grit level is used to smooth and sharpen the blade to a finer degree.

💡Jig

A jig is a device used to hold or guide a tool in a specific position. In the video, a jig is mentioned as a tool to accommodate the shorter blades of a spoke shave. The video also demonstrates how to use a jig for sharpening, which can help ensure consistency and precision in the sharpening process.

💡Throat

In the context of woodworking tools, the throat refers to the opening or space between the blade and the body of the tool. The video discusses the concern of the throat widening during the sharpening process, which can affect the tool's performance. The throat of the Stanley 151 is specifically addressed in the script.

💡Hollow ground

Hollow ground refers to a type of blade sharpening where the bevel is concave, creating a hollow effect. The video mentions checking for a hollow ground on the blade, which can affect the shaving performance. The script discusses the importance of flattening the blade to avoid this issue.

💡Leather strap

A leather strap is used in the final stages of sharpening to polish and refine the edge of a tool. In the video, the leather strap is mentioned as a step in the sharpening process after using grit stones. It helps to achieve a smooth, polished edge on the blade.

💡Tormac

Tormac is a brand of sharpening systems, often used for woodworking tools. The video mentions using a Tormac or a knockoff version for sharpening. The script demonstrates how to set up a jig with a Tormac, highlighting its utility in the sharpening process.

💡Carving gouges

Carving gouges are tools used for carving wood, often used by woodworkers for intricate designs. The video mentions using a jig, similar to the one used for sharpening a spoke shave blade, for sharpening carving gouges. This shows the versatility of the sharpening techniques discussed in the video.

Highlights

Introduction to sharpening a Stanley 151 flat blade for a modern non-wooden spoke shave.

Problems with jigs accommodating shorter blades and a solution involving a jig from Lee Valley.

Technique to flatten the back of the blade using a 300-grit stone.

Using a rougher stone to remove marks and achieve a shiny surface on the blade's tip.

The importance of spending time to ensure the blade is fully flat before moving on.

Marking the bevel with a marker and using a specific grip to maintain the correct angle.

Using the thumbnail as a guide to ensure the bevel is correctly formed.

Progressing to finer grits, starting with 300-grit and moving up to 1000-grit.

Using a 6000-grit stone to further refine the bevel and achieve a glassy smooth finish.

Discussion on the benefits of a 15,000-grit ceramic stone for achieving an ultra-smooth edge.

Demonstration of how to adjust the blade on a Stanley 151 spoke shave.

Testing the sharpness of the blade and the need to adjust the protrusion for optimal shaving.

Addressing the issue of hollow ground blades and the need to flatten the sole for even shaving.

Using a marker to identify high spots on the sole of the blade.

Flattening the sole on a rough stone to ensure evenness and better shaving performance.

Concerns about widening the throat of the blade during sharpening and how to avoid it.

Final adjustments and testing the blade's sharpness after sharpening.

Introduction to a jig setup for sharpening on a Torx or similar tool.

Using a homemade jig with a block of wood and a Torx bar for sharpening.

Demonstration of sharpening a blade using the homemade jig and achieving a solid bevel.

Additional tip on using the jig as a fence for sharpening carving gouges.

Conclusion and teaser for the next video discussing different types of spoke shaves.

Transcripts

hey folks I just want to show you how I

sharpen a Spoke shave blade this is a

Stanley 151 so this is a a flat blade

for a more modern non-wooden spoke shave

so one of the problems is when you have

these jigs um these are Made for More of

the blade protruding out uh so there is

a jig I think leave valy sells one that

can accommodate these shorter blades so

this is a leftover blade that um we're g

to try to sharpen so I'll show you the

technique that I personally

use all right the first thing I do is we

want to flatten out this back so marker

is your

friend so get the roughest stone that

you have this is 300 GD I do have one

that's even rougher but let's see I just

hold it up like

this so that's going to take a while so

I'm going to grab my rougher Stone

all right so this is even

rougher so you want the marks to be gone

on the entire length of by the tip of

the blade so we have it shiny just in

this section right

now so we'll pause that it's going to

take probably 5 minutes maybe to get

this done so I'll pause that and come

come back

okay so about 5 minutes into this you

could spend a half hour if it's really

badly out of flatness so all the marks

are gone I have a little bit at the very

edge here that uh I could keep going on

but I think I'll just leave it like that

for

now now for

the bevel part of it I'll take a marker

here

mark we'll mark

that and it's a little wet

but so the key here the difference you

could you could just try to guess and

feel where that bevel is supposed to be

you could do that but some of these

blades are 1/16th of an inch this one

happens to be 3/16 the 1/16 are really

hard to find that um and then you could

try to just drag it back on your stone

but what I find to work better is

I I hold it with a specific grip and I'm

actually using my thumbnail uh as kind

of the the wedge so I'll put it in here

so so you can see the i i eyeball the

bevel right so there's the there's the

bevel then I put my thumb in there yes

your thumbnail might get worn out so

you're getting married or whatever and

you need perfect fingernails so I use

that as a rough guy you don't have to

have your thumb there you can just kind

of eyeball it so I just go back and

forth like

this so there's no way I'm going to over

tilt because I got my fingers over

overlapping so they are hitting the

stone and my thumbnail is kind of just

it's not really hitting it it's very

close to hitting it but I know if I hit

it then then I'm too

shallow so we got that all cleaned up

and we'll just move on to the next grit

I'll use 300 grit

here so you don't really need a

jig do the

back for this you could do it flat as

well it's not a big deal one handed

two-handed you don't need to get the

whole

blade just the the end part of

it so I I do have a little bit more to

go here but uh right on that very end

most of it's fine I typically don't use

that very end part

anyway so let's move on to a th I mean

you can keep put on a TV show and keep

keep going at it now we're at Thousand

grit same grip here

so I got my thumbnail to 1,00 grit right

now then we'll go

to I don't have a diamond stone I have a

6000 grid

here do the same thing

just kind of eyeballing

it you could feel the bevel on this

one have my finger over the whole length

of the blade right

here so a friend of mine uh was showing

me his shooting board and his um he

needed so little effort so he told me he

uses this 15,000 Grit stff Stone ceramic

stone I think they're on Amazon 20 25

bucks I didn't believe that it would

make a difference I thought a leather

STP at this point would be fine this

thing feels glassy smooth almost so I

put a little water on it but for me it

seems to it does make a

difference so we're just siding down

again see the shine there's a the center

of but you could see is there's a little

bit of a yeah definitely was Hollow

ground and I'll show you how I'll if you

stick around I'll show you if you have a

wheel like a tormac or one of the

knockoff versions oh shoot that was bad

um we have to plan that down but

uh you can

um I'll show you a jig for

that okay so that's

it so let me let me put that in the

Smoke shave we'll see how it works after

that I'll show you this fancy jig not

really fancy very cheap jig you can set

up with a tormac okay back to the

stanley1 this has the adjustable wheels

on it so you don't need a hammer to

adjust it there are other versions where

you need to tap it a little with the

hammer so let's set that in

place very Loosely we'll get it so it's

just kind

of just so it's kind of holding think I

got to tighten that a little more there

we go

and we want it

protruding just

enough so I like to get it where

nothing's coming out

first and we'll tighten that up we'll

give it a little

test so here I'm kind of screwing around

and fiddling with it to try to get the

exact shaving but not too

successful huh

wow so so sometimes if you get a really

thick shaving you can only get thick

shavings then you got to look and see

maybe

this there's a hollow or something on

the

sole see I'd like to get a thinner

shaving in that so it could be that this

this whole sole needs to be regr cuz

when I when I go forward just a little

bit the only way to get a shaving is if

I make the blade stick out further it

doesn't look like it's sticking out a

lot but I think so the next thing we're

going to do is

uh take this sole it's a flat bottom

sole you could see so we'll take the

blade out put some marker on there and

see if um see if that'll

help all right so we put some markers

marker marks on here and now I'm just

going to see what's going on my guess is

there's going to be some sort of

hollow so not too bad but I want I'm

going to flatten this whole thing out

maybe one side is worse than the other

so we'll we'll go back to the rougher

Stone and I'll get back to you on

that yeah so you can see it's a little

off here it's this is all a high spot

right now and if we had the blade in

there we'd have to skew it uh and it

might you might be able to compensate

but if there's any unevenness you can't

so we're going to flatten this whole

thing down and I'm pretty sure we'll get

a better cut with it

[Music]

so making progress so yeah so if I left

it like this the blade would have to

stick out further here and I would think

it would dig in um in order to to get

this to cut so or you'd have to have

actually more blades sticking out

unevenly so let's continue with that

I've been at it for about 3

minutes one of the concerns is when

you're whenever you're doing something

like this will the throat widen in some

cases it will um especially like on a

wooden plane some of the wooden planes

you'll notice that their the throat is

actually made

parallel the the walls of the throat are

made parallel for a while just for that

purpose I don't think we'll see a great

difference cuz I'm not taking much metal

off

here but we're almost

there ideally you probably want to get

the whole thing removed get it smooth so

I'll work on that come back you know

we've covered the entire length of the

throat there's a little bit here on the

sides I could keep going that little bit

extra is going to be a lot more work um

I don't think I don't use this plane

typically on a totally flat surface it

might help to have all these Ed um all

these at the same level if you're using

on a flat surface but I'm typically

using on a rounded surfaces and I'm not

referencing off of these SIDS so we'll

leave it like that and see how it

works okay so I've played around with it

probably about 10 different moves back

and

forth and I'm pretty pleased with the

Shaving fairly

thin and that's it so that's how we

adjust the or sharpen the blade and

adjust it on this Stanley 151 now let me

show you this jig on if you have one of

these Torx how to uh sharpen on a

jig so let me show you I got a torch

here and they make knockoff varieties of

these so there's a bar here we're going

to use this bar with a block of wood

glued onto it um and that's going to be

our jig so when I made

this you want to make sure that the

holes are consistent so the I put the

holes right on the end of those holes

there so you can see so we'll put that

we'll screw that

in and we'll go to the we'll go to The

Jig so this only works this specific jig

works for the1 the one with the holes in

it let's go over the

tormac so I'm just eyeballing right

here and it looks to me that I have it

right I did a little dry run here or wet

[Music]

run that's pretty close I could go in a

little

more let's try that that might be even

better so this feels very solid

nothing's moving I should get a very

nice

bevel they're almost done we're going to

come in a pair

more and I'll have to do the back side

as well but this is just showing you

that you can use this jig you can uh

make a jig like this for a lot of

different tools you don't have to buy

the expensive jigs from torac I have

this of a miter trimmer one of those big

Guillotine things I have a jig TI for

the very awkward blade for that just use

this as a as a

fence in fact while I'm talking about

this I'll throwing a little

extra and that is you can use this fence

for your carving

gouges I'm not going to do it but um use

the fence this helps so much with

sharpening carving gouges just eyeball

the bevel like that and just use the

handle so that uh that handle is your

reference just give it slight turns like

this depending on type of gouge that you

have here's a more prominent one so you

can see but you just find the right

bevel angle adjust it and then you're

good all you got to do is rotate it and

for me that's a great way and you switch

over to the to the leather strap and you

got a nice sharp chisel in a matter of a

minute or two so

so these are very valuable tools Stanley

151 or any of the Stanley spoke shapes

uh look for my next video we'll talk

about all the different types of spoke

shaves that are out there this actually

is not my favorite spoke shave I'll show

you my favorite one on the next video