I Tested 29 Espresso Shots in Italy. The Results Surprised Me

Summary

In this exploration of Italian espresso culture, the creator debunks the myth that modern specialty espresso is too strong. Traveling across Italy, they find that espresso is just as intense as specialty coffee, but the secret lies in Italy’s approach to roasting and blending to reduce acidity, creating a smoother shot. The video contrasts northern and southern Italian espresso styles, highlighting the simplicity and reliability of the Italian method, and argues that specialty coffee could benefit from embracing these principles. Ultimately, it suggests a shift away from overly complex espresso in favor of more accessible, enjoyable options.

Takeaways

• 😀 Italian espresso culture still thrives, with espresso being a key part of daily life, and is typically stronger than modern specialty coffee.
• 😀 The author initially believed modern specialty espresso was too strong, but discovered Italian espresso was just as strong or stronger on average.
• 😀 Italian espresso is crafted to be smooth and drinkable, despite its strength, through careful roasting and blending that reduces acidity.
• 😀 In Italy, espresso is consumed quickly and inexpensively, often in a standing bar setting, which contrasts with the slower, more deliberate café culture in other countries.
• 😀 The northern and central regions of Italy serve espresso with a TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) around 9-10%, while Napoli's espresso reaches much higher levels at 12.2% TDS.
• 😀 In Naples, espresso is made using almost exclusively La San Marco lever machines, a traditional and distinctive method not used in other parts of Italy.
• 😀 Napoli's espresso tends to be darker roasted, and adding sugar is a common practice to balance the strength and bitterness.
• 😀 The simplicity of Italian espresso preparation (e.g., using a basic tamper, no advanced tools) stands in contrast to the high-tech, precision-driven methods in specialty coffee shops worldwide.
• 😀 Specialty coffee shops around the world often chase brighter, fruitier flavors with lighter roasts, which can make balancing flavors harder in a short 1:2 espresso ratio.
• 😀 Some coffee shops, like Colana and Smalls in London, are experimenting with longer, more flavorful shots (e.g., 1:5 ratio), offering a middle ground between espresso and brewed coffee while maintaining the legacy of espresso.

Q & A

What was the initial hypothesis of the speaker regarding modern espresso?

The speaker initially hypothesized that specialty coffee shops serve espresso that's too strong for regular drinkers, which is why people avoid drinking straight espresso and opt for milk-based drinks instead.

What was the surprising outcome of the speaker's testing in Italy regarding espresso strength?

The speaker was surprised to find that Italian espresso was just as strong, if not stronger, than specialty coffee from other parts of the world. The average TDS across Italian espresso was 10.40%, which is quite high.

Why wasn't Italian espresso as unpleasant to drink, despite its strength?

Italian espresso, despite being strong, was not unpleasant to drink because the roasting and blending methods were focused on reducing acidity. This created a smoother shot with flavors like cocoa, chocolate, and nuts rather than harsh, bitter notes.

How does the approach to acidity in Italian espresso differ from specialty coffee?

In Italy, espresso focuses on minimizing acidity and creating smooth, chocolatey flavors, while specialty coffee often celebrates bright, fruity acidity and complex flavors.

What was the unique espresso culture in Naples compared to the rest of Italy?

In Naples, espresso was even stronger than in other parts of Italy, with an average TDS of 12.24%. Naples also had a distinct espresso culture using the same Le San Marco lever machines and darker roast profiles. Additionally, it was common to add sugar to espresso in Naples, which was not as prevalent elsewhere in Italy.

What makes Naples' espresso different in terms of equipment?

Nearly every café in Naples used a Le San Marco lever espresso machine, which is an old-school spring lever machine. This was in stark contrast to the pump-driven machines used in other parts of Italy.

How does the roast profile in Naples differ from the rest of Italy?

In Naples, espresso is made with a much darker roast compared to the rest of Italy, where medium roasts are more common. This darker roast contributes to the stronger, bolder flavor profiles characteristic of Neapolitan espresso.

What insight did the speaker gain regarding the complexity of espresso in modern coffee culture?

The speaker concluded that modern espresso has become overly complicated and precious, focusing on precision and high acidity. In contrast, Italian espresso remains simple and reliable, serving a practical purpose in everyday life, much like a quick snack or drink.

What do the cafés in Italy emphasize that modern specialty coffee cafes do not?

Italian cafés focus on simplicity, speed, and affordability. Espresso is served quickly at a low cost (around €1.30–€1.40 per shot), and it's designed to be consumed in a few minutes. In contrast, modern specialty coffee cafés often emphasize slow, deliberate experiences, with cafés functioning as third spaces for relaxation or work.

What potential future shift in specialty coffee does the speaker suggest?

The speaker suggests that specialty coffee may benefit from embracing espresso formats that are more fitting for café cultures, such as longer shots with lower TDS ratios (e.g., a 1:5 ratio shot). These shots are more enjoyable, consistent, and quicker to prepare than traditional espresso, and they could be more suited to a slower, more deliberate café environment.