22 Perfumery accords in 22 minutes

Summary

In this video, the presenter introduces 22 beginner-friendly perfume accords that can be created using a 30-ingredient starter kit. These accords range from floral to woody, gourmand, and citrus scents, offering a versatile foundation for aspiring perfumers. With tips on diluting ingredients, controlling scent strength, and blending techniques, viewers are guided through the process of creating unique fragrances. The video encourages experimentation and provides practical advice for those looking to explore the world of perfumery by combining raw materials to craft personalized scents.

Takeaways

• 😀 Takeaway 1: Use 10% and 1% dilutions of raw materials to better control strength when creating perfume accords.
• 😀 Takeaway 2: Accords are combinations of raw materials that form the base of a fragrance and can be customized to suit individual preferences.
• 😀 Takeaway 3: The 22 accords shared in the video are based on a beginner's kit of 30 raw materials, offering a wide range of possible combinations.
• 😀 Takeaway 4: The Acacia Accord blends analid (Hawthorne Blossom) and orano (orange blossom), with optional additions of hedion, floral, and rose for balance.
• 😀 Takeaway 5: The Gran Accord (Hugme Accord), created by Sofhia Grman in 1990, uses galaxolide, hedione, ISO super, and alpha-isomethyl ionone.
• 😀 Takeaway 6: The Amber Accord, a classic from the late 1800s, combines vanillin and labdanum to create a warm, sweet scent found in many modern perfumes.
• 😀 Takeaway 7: The Fougere Accord, traditionally made with lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin, can be customized with bergamot and amamosal silate for added complexity.
• 😀 Takeaway 8: Jean-Claude Elena's Candy Floss Accord uses just vanillin and ethylmaltol to create a simple, sweet, and sugary fragrance.
• 😀 Takeaway 9: The Chypre Accord blends bergamot, rose, labdanum, and oakmoss to recreate the classic scent of a 1917 fragrance, with optional additions of rose.
• 😀 Takeaway 10: The video encourages experimentation, allowing beginners to create their own perfumes by balancing different accords and raw materials to achieve their desired results.

Q & A

What is the purpose of the 10% and 1% dilutions when creating perfume accords?

The 10% and 1% dilutions help control the strength of the raw materials. The 10% dilution allows for stronger materials, while the 1% dilution is useful for more concentrated or overpowering ingredients, giving you a better idea of how the materials will blend in a more balanced manner.

How do you start making perfume accords with the raw materials in the beginner’s kit?

Begin by creating 10% and 1% dilutions of each raw material, then smell each one individually. Once familiar with the scents, combine the ingredients for each accord using scent strips to test how they blend together, adjusting the strength by choosing the appropriate dilution.

What is the significance of adding a 'floraly' like *Hedon floral* or *Rose* to floral accords?

Floral notes like *Hedon floral* or *Rose* can help enhance the projection and diffusion of other floral materials, especially those that are weaker or less transparent. A trace of *Rose* can elevate the entire accord, helping the other ingredients 'sing' and become more noticeable in the final fragrance.

Why was the *Gran Accord* (Hugme Accord) so influential in modern perfumery?

The *Gran Accord*, created by *Sofia Grman* in 1990, became popular due to its use in the perfume *Tror VI Laom*. This accord, made from *galaxolide*, *Hedon*, *ISU super*, and *Alpha islon*, became a hallmark of modern perfumes, influencing many other scents due to its distinctive and appealing fragrance.

How can the *Amber Accord* be used in perfumes, and what is its historical significance?

The *Amber Accord*, created by combining *labdanum absolute* and *vanillin*, became a classic when *synthetic vanillin* was introduced in the late 1800s. This accord remains widely used today, as it provides a warm, sweet, and resinous note that complements many perfume compositions.

What is the historical background of the *Fuer Accord*, and how is it typically made?

The *Fuer Accord*, inspired by the scent of ferns, was first popularized in 1877 by the perfume *Fü* by Hub. It is traditionally made with *lavender*, *oak moss* (or *veros*), and *coumarin*, though *veros* can substitute *oak moss*. This accord is considered a classic in traditional perfumery.

What makes the *Candy Floss Accord* unique, and how is it made?

The *Candy Floss Accord* is a simple and sweet fragrance made by combining *vanillin* and *E molto*. It captures the sugary, light, and airy essence of cotton candy, making it an interesting addition to any beginner’s perfume collection.

Why are *Bergamot* and *Rose* often included in *Shepra* accords?

The *Shepra* accord, originally associated with perfumes from Cyprus, combines *Bergamot* and *Rose* for a fresh yet complex scent profile. *Rose* adds depth to the *labdanum* and *oak moss* base, making the fragrance more balanced and multifaceted.

What role does *heliotropin* play in creating a *Heliotrope Accord*?

In a *Heliotrope Accord*, *heliotropin* (or its synthetic variants) serves as the primary component, giving the accord its sweet, cherry-like floral character. It can be enhanced with additional materials like *analid* and *balide* to give it more complexity and projection.

What are the key ingredients to recreate a *Gourmand Accord* like the one used in *Angel* by *Mugler*?

The key ingredients for a *Gourmand Accord*, inspired by *Angel* by *Mugler* (1992), are *patchouli* and *E molto*. These ingredients combine to create a rich, sweet, and caramel-like fragrance, which has since become widely used in the Gourmand perfume genre.