Recycling Failed 3D Prints with a DIY Filament Extruder: Artme3D
Summary
TLDRВ этом видео Stefan из CNC Kitchen рассматривает вопрос рециклинга отходов от 3D-печати, демонстрируя制作过程DIY экструзора филаментов от компании Artme. Он сравнивает его с профессиональными решениями, которые стоят в 10 раз дороже. Artme3D Mk2 - это открытая система, позволяющая пользователям создавать и восстанавливать филаменты из отходов. В видео подробно описывается процесс сборки экструзора, его функционирование и результаты экспериментов с использованием экструзора для создания новых филаментов из утилизируемого пластика. Stefan также делится своими впечатлениями о продукте и его потенциале для хобби и малого бизнеса.
Takeaways
- 🚀 В видео рассматривается возможность рециклинга отходов от 3D-печати, превращая их в новые пластины для дальнейшего использования.
- 🛠️ Введение в DIY-набор на базе экструдера филаментов Artme3D Mk2, который был куплен за 600 долларов и сравнивается с профессиональными решениями, стоимостью в 10 раз больше.
- 👨🔧 Автор Stefan из CNC Kitchen собирает экструдер из комплекта, включая настройку и прокачку всех компонентов самостоятельно.
- 🔩 Комплект включает в себя индивидуальные компоненты, а также требует распечатки пластиковых деталей 3D-принтером.
- 🔥 Процесс сборки охватывает установку барабана, нагревного блока, электроники, мотора и устройства для сушки филаментов.
- 🌡️ Экструдеры обычно состоят из винтовой системы, двигателя с высокой крутящейmoment of inertia, нагреваемого ствола и сопла для производства филамента.
- 📦 Artme3D MK2 предлагает простой в сборке и настройке дизайн, включая инновационные функции, такие как вибрационный фильтр и устройству для измерения диаметра филамента.
- 🔄 Применяется специальная лента для фильтрации и удаления загрязнений из пластика, что улучшает качество производимого филамента.
- 🌿 Рассмотрены экологические и экономические преимущества рециклинга отходов 3D-печати, а также возможность использования экструдера для создания новых продуктов.
- 🎨 Автор демонстрирует процесс рециклинга отходов, включая измельчение, выдержку, выравнивание и натяжку филамента на bobbin.
- 📏 В ходе испытаний полученный филамент проходит проверку на качество печати, демонстрируя хорошую работоспособность и отсутствие заметных неправильностей в диаметре.
- 🔧 Автор отмечает некоторые неидеальности, такие как требование дополнительной настройки и периодической уход за фильтром, но в целом остается доволен результатом и рекомендует экструдер для любителей и создателей.
Q & A
3D принтерами обычно генерируется какая отходная материал?
-3D принтерами генерируется отходная материаль в виде неудачных печатей, прототипов и отходов мультицветных печатей, которые также называются "пластиком".
Какой тип филамента можно переработать с помощью экструдера?
-С помощью экструдера можно переработать отходы мультицветных печатей, прототипы и даже "пластик", то есть отходы из промежуточных цветов.
Какой компании принадлежит разработанный экструдер?
-Экструдер разработан компанией Artme.
Какой тип ступицы используется в экструдере Artme для подачи материала?
-В экструдере Artme используется специально обработанная ступиця, которая обеспечивает более эффективное подачу и экструзию свернутых 3D-печатей.
Какой тип филамента экструдируется на Artme3D Mk2?
-Artme3D Mk2 экструдирует филамент из ПЛA, который может быть произведен из отходов, таких как свернутые 3D-печати.
Какой средний потребляемый мощностью экструдер во время работы?
-В среднем экструдер потребляет около 60Вт электроэнергии во время работы.
Какой размер филамента обычно экструдуется с помощью Artme3D Mk2?
-Обычным размером экструдуемого филамента является 1.75 мм.
Как долго занимает сверка всех компонентов экструдера Artme3D Mk2?
-Сверка всех компонентов экструдера Artme3D Mk2 занимает около 50 часов.
Какой дополнительный компонент не входит в комплект экструдера и должен быть куплен отдельно?
-Комплект экструдера не включает в себя 24В блок питания, который нужно отдельно приобрести.
Какой материал используется для изготовления корпуса экструдера?
-Для изготовления корпуса экструдера используются пластиковые детали, напечатанные на 3D-принтере.
Какой тип фильтра используется для очистки отходов от загрязнений при экструсии?
-Для очистки отходов от загрязнений используется фильтр растаяжки с проволочным сетчатым покрытием с отверстиями меньшими, чем диаметр насадки 3D-принтера.
Какие преимущества имеет экструдер Artme3D Mk2 перед другими DIY-решениями?
-Экструдер Artme3D Mk2 имеет преимущества в удобстве сборки, доступности компонентов, более эффективной работе специальной ступицы для подачи материала и открытости исходного кода, что позволяет пользователям внести изменения и улучшения.
Outlines
😀 DIY пластикового экструдера от(Artme3D Mk2)
В этом параграфе рассматривается проблема отходов от 3D-печати и представлены способы их рециклинга. Автор Stefan рассматривает покупку экструдера пластика DIY от компании Artme за 600 долларов и сравнивает его с профессиональными решениями, которые стоят в 10 раз дороже. Он описывает процесс сборки и тестирования экструдера, включая использование специального кормильного витка, открытого исходного кода и возможности самостоятельного сбора с покупкой необходимых компонентов. Также упоминается спонсорская ссылка на KiwiCo с предложением скидки.
🛠️ Сборка и настройка экструдера пластика
Второй параграф посвящён сборке экструдера пластика Artme3D MK2. Автор подробно описывает процесс, начиная с печати компонентов на 3D-принтере и заканчивая установкой двигателей, обогревающего блока и фильтров. Он также упоминает о том, что некоторые части, такие как 24В источник питания, должны быть приобретены отдельно. В процессе сборки используются инструкции, предоставленные дизайнером David, которые помогут в сборке и подключении всех необходимых компонентов.
🔧 Реализация экструдера и производство пластика
В этом параграфе описывается процесс работы экструдера и производство пластика из отходов 3D-печати. Автор рассказывает о подготовке отходов, их измельчении, высыхании и вакуумной обработке для удаления влаги. Затем описывается запуск экструдера, настройка параметров для производства пластика и начальный процесс сpooling'a. Также упоминается спонсорское видео KiwiCo, где автор делится своими впечатлениями о проекте с детьми и его значении для развития STEAM.
🎨 Тестирование экструдера и результаты печати
Последний параграф посвящён тестированию экструдера и результате печати из полученного пластика. Автор рассматривает качество произведенного пластика, его внешний вид и возможность использования для печати. Он упоминает о печати различных предметов, включая корпуса для soldering iron tips, и подчёркивает, что результаты не отличаются от печати с новым пластиком. Также автор делится своими впечатлениями о проекте, его достоинствах и недостатках, а также обсуждает возможные улучшения и будущие планы использования экструдера.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡3D печать
💡отходы 3D печати
💡экструдер
💡филамент
💡рециклинг
💡DIY экструдер
💡отвердевшая пластина
💡теплоотвод
💡фильтр плавления
💡отсев материалов
💡сушение материалов
Highlights
DIY filament extruder kit from Artme can recycle 3D printing waste into new filament.
The kit costs around 600 USD, significantly less than professional solutions.
Artme3D Mk2 is largely Open Source, allowing for easy access and potential improvements by users.
Custom-machined feeding screw for better material feed and extrusion compared to DIY solutions.
Complete kit includes all necessary parts and tools for assembly, except for the 24V power supply.
Manual is detailed and available in multiple languages, aiding in the assembly process.
Extruders use re-purposed 3D printer electronics and a separate driver module for the extruder motor.
Filament winder automatically reverses direction for even filament distribution on the spool.
Use of rock wool for insulation to stabilize temperatures and reduce power usage.
Melt filter with a wire mesh to catch contaminants larger than a typical 3D printer nozzle diameter.
Artme3D MK2 can produce filament from both pellets and recycled 3D printing waste.
Shredding of failed prints is necessary before they can be recycled by the extruder.
Drying of shredded material is crucial to remove moisture for successful filament production.
The extrusion process involves adjusting various parameters for optimal filament diameter and quality.
Artme3D MK2 produced filament with diameter variations of around ±0.1 mm, suitable for many applications.
Recycled filament was successfully used to print new objects, demonstrating its usability.
Melt filter requires occasional cleaning to maintain extrusion efficiency.
Artme3D MK2 is a cost-effective solution for hobbyists and makers interested in filament production or recycling.
The machine's design, electronics, and firmware are open source, allowing for customization and improvements.
Transcripts
Failed prints, prototypes, or just purging poop from multi-color prints. Yes, this is
all waste from 3D printing. Instead of throwing this plastic away and paying for new filament,
wouldn't it be great to recycle this waste and make new filament from it. I recently
bought a DIY filament extruder kit costing only around 600 buck to find out how it compares to
professional solutions that I used in the past that cost at least 10 times as much!
Let’s find out more! Guten Tag everybody, I’m Stefan and welcome to CNC Kitchen.
This video is sponsored by KiwiCo. Get 50% off your first month by using the link below!
Everyone who has a 3D printer will collect significant amounts of waste over time,
and at least for me, it always feels wasteful to throw it into the trash,
and I think I’m not the only one here. Over the years, I already showed several attempts
of how to recycle this waste into new filaments. Yet so far, my machines have either been quite
hard to set up to get them working reliably or were so expensive that only a business
can really afford them. But this time it might be different! A couple of months ago,
I stumbled over a German company called Artme that makes a DIY filament extruder
kit that looked really promising. Now back to extruders. One big downside of other DIY
solutions is that they often use a big wood drill or auger as a feeding screw for the material,
which kind of works but is far from optimal. Artme uses a custom-machined feeding screw which
doesn’t only look really pretty but should also significantly help to feed and extrude, especially
shredded 3D prints. And the best thing is the Artme3D Mk2 is, besides some small limitations
basically Open Source with the intention of making the machine widely and easily available.
You could even build one from scratch and just buy essential custom components, like the screw.
I ordered a complete kit, and after it had been sitting in my studio for a while finally found
the time to build it and test it out. And just to make it clear, I’m not affiliated with Artme and
purchased the machine with my own money. If you appreciate that, please consider leaving a like.
Let’s look at the basics. Very simply spoken, such a plastic extruder is a screw, that’s driven
by a high-torque motor that runs inside a heated barrel. The plastic is fed from one end, then gets
molten and mixed, and leaves the barrel through a nozzle on the other end, producing filament.
The Artme3D MK2 is an extruder kit which means that you get the individual components but have
to assemble and wire everything yourself. It also doesn’t come with the plastic parts,
so you have to print these yourself, and this is what I did at first. I separated
the parts into three categories. The first one was general parts that didn’t have any
significant thermal loading and that I printed from PLA in three fully loaded print jobs on
my Bambu Lab X1 Carbon. In separate jobs, I printed the esthetic housing parts facing
down on the textured PEI sheet of my A1 Mini to get a really nice surface finish. The last
set of parts were the ones that get a bit warmer and that I printed from black PETG. All in all,
it took me around 50 hours to print all of the pieces using 1.5 spools of filament.
Once I was finished with the printing process, I could finally start assembling the extruder.
David, who is the Designer of the Artme3D, seriously includes everything in the kit,
starting from well-sorted screws to tools, and even includes things like superglue
and aluminum foil that we’ll need in a bit. The only thing that’s missing due to legal
reasons is the 24V power supply, which is another 20 bucks on Amazon. The manual is
available in many different languages, some probably machine-translated from German. I
checked the German and English ones which are super detailed, very easy to follow,
and remind me a lot of the manual from a Prusa printer kit only without the gummy bears.
The assembly process is broken down into several sections starting with
the extruder. Here I fixed the barrel to the pre-cut aluminum extrusion and connected the
big and geared-down stepper motor to the extruder screw. The ingenious thing here
is that the coupler already includes a stir bar that should later help to evenly feed the very
sharp and chunky shredded plastic that otherwise interlocks and even stops feeding. After that,
the hopper is added, and the heating unit, which looks like a huge 3D printer heating block,
gets fixed to the extruder barrel. The whole assembly gets then screwed to a base.
Most of the electronics that are used sit in the back and are simply re-purposed
from a 3D printer. The wires all come pre-crimped with ferrules,
and all the connections are explained idiot-proof in the manual. The extruder motor uses a separate
driver module because it requires more power than regular 3D printer motors. The screen
that sits on the side of the machine is also just a really old model I’ve already used 8
years ago on my first printer but it should be more than sufficient for what we need it for.
Next, I assembled the filament winder, which will later spool our freshly extruded material.
This is a really clever construction with an adjustable filament guide that automatically
reverses its direction once it reaches the stop in order to get a nice and equal distribution
of the filament over the width of the spool. The spool itself is driven by a separate stepper motor
that’s connected via a belt that can slip so the filament is always wound with the perfect tension.
Every rotation of the spool, a mechanism actuates the filament guide so it advances a tiny bit.
The next step was a bit messy. In order to stabilize temperatures and reduce the power
usage of the machine, the whole extruder barrel gets insulated with some rock wool. I made sure
to wear gloves and a respirator, but the fibers still ended up almost everywhere.
I wrapped the sheet of insulation around the barrel and then slit the cover over it.
The following step was honestly one of the most satisfying ones and shows how much thought David
put into his DIY filament extruder. If you have seen any of my last videos on filament recycling,
you know that any dirt or metal chips that are in the ground-up plastic will end up in the filament,
and if they are too big, will clog the small nozzle. In order to reduce that risk,
the Artme3D uses a melt filter, which is a wire mesh that has holes smaller than
the typical nozzle diameter of a 3D printer, so anything bigger should be caught here. The mesh
is not just put flat in the nozzle, but David developed a two-stage forming die to create a
3-dimensional filter structure for increased surface area and rigidity. After this really
satisfying forming step, I put the filter into the nozzle holder that seals against leaking with
some Teflon tape. Unfortunately, this limits the maximum extrusion temperature to 260°C,
which should still be enough for most extrusion and recycling projects. I then screwed a regular
3D printer nozzle that’s drilled to 1.7mm into the holder through which the filament
will later extrude. The nozzle is slightly undersized because the molten plastic will
swell up a little after it leaves the small hole due to the pressures inside the extruder.
After this step was finished, I built and installed a very simple filament
feeder that pushes the newly extruded filament to the winder. It has a small
tension arm to get enough pressure on the material to pull it, but hopefully,
not so much that we squish the still slightly soft material.
The last essential component of the machine is the sensor unit. This is not a filament
diameter sensor but only a filament position sensor. The Artme3D will rely on gravity to
basically stretch our extruded filament to the right diameter after it leaves the nozzle. To
keep the force consistent, it should always droop down a similar amount. The Artme uses
an optical sensor for that, through which a translucent plastic piece with increasing
thickness is rotated, which acts like a simple angle sensor. A piece of wire is
attached to the rotating part through which we’ll later guide our filament.
And after a bit of final wiring and cleaning up, the Artme3D MK2 is finally finished. This honestly
was a really nice and well-documented build taking me a good day to finish. But let’s now
see if it also works and produces filament in the quality we need for 3D printing!
The extruder is easily capable of making filament from pellets, yet we want to use it to recycle old
and failed prints. So I recently printed a bunch of soldering iron tips cases that we sold for a
Black Friday special yet I ended up with a bit of scrap. Some of the prints failed due to bad
bed adhesion, clogged nozzles or filament that ran out. I think these scraps are the perfect
opportunity to recycle into new filament and, of course, print new cases from. These, of course,
don’t directly feed in the extruder, so the first thing we need to do is grind them up to have small
shreddings. In the past, I tried a blender, a modified paper shredder, and even built a
hand-cranked shredding machine, which all, to some degree, work, yet the most reliable thing is still
a real electric shredder that I, fortunately, have as well. So I fed the failed cases, purge blocks,
and printer poop into the machine and let it chew through the plastic. The ground-up material was
already mostly fine enough, yet I still sieved it and put the parts that were too big back into the
shredder. At first, I kept the blue and grey shreddings separate. I had to learn more than
once that dry material is essential to make good filament, so I took all of the material,
put it on a tray, and placed it into my drying oven for three hours at 60°C. Since I was a bit
lazy, I mixed the two separate colors together, hoping that the resulting color would still turn
out nice. To get the last bit of moisture out of the material, I poured everything into my
vacuum chamber with a bit of desiccant and evacuated the still-warm particles.
The next day, I was finally able to try out how well the Artme3D MK2 handled my
shredded 3D printing waste. So I turned the machine on and preheated it to the
recommended starting temperature of 180°C. While it heated up I installed
an empty spool of filament on the holder and adjusted the endstops in a way that
the filament guide reached both sides of the roll. Then I added some scoops of the
shreddings into the hopper. Once everything was hot, I started the extrusion process and
was super excited once the first bit of our recycled filament came out of the nozzle.
I think you were able to hear my enthusiasm if things start working that I built and where I
see the opportunity to learn something new! We have a 3-year-old daughter, and I really hope
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So I let a bit of material extrude out for a little bit until the flow equalized and started
the spooling process. To do that, I first cut off the freshly extruded filament right after
the nozzle and guided the strand by hand through the sensor arm and toward the feeder until it was
pulled in. Then I adjusted the feeder speed so that the sensor arm stayed in more or less the
vertical orientation. Once this seemed to be the case, I started the auto-pulling process. In this
mode, the extruder will go faster if the filament hangs down more and go slower if it’s getting too
far up. To start the winding process, I once again cut off the filament where it leaves the guide and
threaded the end through a hole at the spool, and bent it over, so it doesn’t get pulled out. I used
the first couple of meters to make sure that the filament diameter was close to 1.75 mm. Dialing
the diameter in is something that needs a bit of experience and skill. The parameters won’t be
universally usable and will depend on the filament type and even color, yet Artme provides some good
values to start with. So if the diameter, for example, is too big, you can increase
the extrusion temperature; if it’s too thin, you can reduce it. Yet also, the position and strength
of the cooling fan, position of the sensor and also rpm of the extruder screw can change the
result. I regularly measured the diameter of the filament with calipers, which is something that
isn’t optimal, and once I was happy just let it run. I filled up the rest of the hopper with the
shredded material and could nicely see over the course of 3 hours how the spool slowly filled up
with a really nice-looking filament. The extruder ran in a different room, and I was always wearing
a respirator when checking because extruding so much material is a bit smelly and probably
also small of the unhealthy kind. But, you do you. The winding wasn’t perfect, but I mean,
what can you expect from a first-try and an inexpensive DIY solution? During the process,
I could really see how the stir bar feature helped to constantly mix the shredded material so that it
was nicely and, more importantly, evenly fed. I hooked up a power meter since people always ask
how much energy is used, and I was surprised that it only drew, on average, around 60W,
which is far less than a 3D printer and just what an incandescent light bulb needs. I regularly
checked the diameter of the extruded filament which fluctuated +- 1/10 of a mm around our 1.75
mm target. This means, at least, this batch is not as precise as most commercial filament, but hey,
this is a $600 machine and 100% recycled material! And in the end, the proof is in the eating of the
pudding or rather in the printing of the recycled filament. So once most of our shredded 3D prints
were eaten up by the extruder, I stopped the process, cut the filament, and removed a really
beautifully looking roll of filament without any noticeable bumps or other inconsistencies.
So as I said in the beginning, this material once was the trash and leftover from my soldering tip
case production, so what better way to use it than to print more cases with it? I loaded it
onto my Bambu Lab A1 Mini and started printing without any special settings. And oh boy, was I
not disappointed by the results! The cases looked really pretty. Mixing up the two colors
only led to a bit of a darker blue color, but the prints looked really pretty. The only way
I was really able to tell them apart from new filament was the fact that there sometimes
were a bit of color streaks in the material, where more of one or the other color was fed.
I also printed this owl as well as a Mini Stefan, which both turned out beautiful,
and I honestly wasn’t even able to see the variances in filament diameter on the print.
During the time I’ve had the Artme3D so far, I extruded two more batches of recycled PLA.
One was some leftover filament poop shreddings I had from my last video,
which came out really beautiful. Due to the compact design of the Artme extruder,
there isn’t a lot of material mixing happening in the barrel, which results in these really
unique color gradients in the material, and particularly on the prints! The third batch was
from some 3-year-old shredded material I still found in my basement, but that also extruded
really well. This had a significant portion of black so it extruded in this dark grey with a bit
of glitter. Filament diameter variation was again around +-0.1 mm but the prints didn’t show any of
that and were honestly really nice! So besides these Mini Stefans, I printed more cases from
my own recycled filament, which you can find as a limited edition in our shop at CNCKitchen.STORE.
At the end of the last batch that I did, I noticed that the extrusion rate significantly dropped.
During my first batch, the feeder was set to around 30 revolutions per minute, but during
the last hour of extrusion of the last batch, the feeding speed dropped down all the way to around
16 rpm. This could, of course, be simply due to the different material that I ran, but I already
suspected the melt filter caught some stuff and slowly clogged. So I first purged everything
that still was in the barrel with some plain PLA pellets and then unscrewed the nozzle holder with
the melt filter. At first sight, it didn’t look too bad, but upon further inspection, I was able
to see some bigger metal pieces and also a bunch of glitter that accumulated. I had not a single
clog printing any of my three recycled batches, so the filter clearly does its job but it seems
to require a bit of attention from time to time to get the machine running smoothly and efficiently.
In summary, I’m super happy with the Artme3D MK2 DIY filament extruder. You really notice that this
is not the first generation of this machine, and many problems have already been ironed
out. You clearly see David's German engineering background. He did a tremendous job designing
the machine and putting a kit together that’s super simple to assemble. Running the machine
will require a bit of tinkering, and you can’t expect tightly toleranced filament like from
machines that cost orders of magnitude more and uses virgin materials, but as my tests showed,
the material that I made seems to be perfectly usable for many applications. Yet the machine
is not perfect. The wire sensor arm is annoying, and sometimes the filament gets stuck to it and
then bounces around. Measuring the diameter is not super easy, and of course, it would
be great to have some kind of an active feedback system. But the amazing thing is that the design,
electronics and firmware are all freely available and mostly open source, so if you have a special
application or simply want to improve it, you can do that and contribute to the project. I’m quite
sure that this is the least expensive yet still really well-working solution if you want to get
into making your own filament or recycling old prints. 650 € is still a lot of money,
and this doesn’t include a shredding solution yet. There also aren’t that many makers that
will make this money back in saved filament. Yet, just like consumer 3D printing, if you see this
as a hobby and are happy if you can recycle your old prints, even though it doesn’t save you money,
this is probably the best bang for your buck filament maker that you can get at the moment.
But please let me know your thoughts in the comments about filament recycling and
what you would like me to see doing with this machine in the future. Do you see this as a
feasible solution for hobbyists or maker spaces, or would you rather just discard your old prints?
Thanks for watching, everyone! I hope you found this video interesting! If you want to
support my work, consider becoming a Patron or YouTube member. Also check out the other
videos in my library! I hope to see you in the next one! Auf wiedersehen and goodbye!
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