How to Winterize an Outboard Motor | Winterizing a 2 stroke Outboard Motor | Boats.net
Summary
TLDRIn this video, John Talley from Boats.net demonstrates the process of winterizing a 2001 Mercury Tracker 25 horsepower two-stroke engine. He covers essential tools and supplies, including gear oil, fogging oil, stabilizer, and corrosion guard. John explains step-by-step procedures, such as checking for water in the oil, treating the fuel system, and applying fogging oil to the carburetor and cylinders. He also replaces spark plugs and applies corrosion guard to protect exposed parts. By following these steps, the engine will be ready for storage and should start smoothly next season.
Takeaways
- 🛠️ Ensure you have the correct parts and chemicals for winterizing a two-stroke engine, including gear oil, fogging oil, stabilizer, corrosion guard, and new spark plugs.
- 🧰 Use the right pump for the lower unit, and check for issues like water in the oil which could indicate a broken seal.
- 🔍 Pay attention to the color of the oil when draining it; a milky appearance could mean water intrusion.
- 🔧 Make sure all washers are in place when reassembling to avoid stacking them and causing leaks.
- ⛽ Add the correct amount of fuel stabilizer to the system, and run the engine for about 10 minutes to ensure the mixture reaches the fuel system.
- 🌬️ Spray fogging oil directly into the carburetor to protect the internal components, especially in a carbureted system.
- 🔩 Remove and inspect the spark plugs, then spray fogging oil into the cylinders and rotate the engine to distribute it evenly.
- 💪 When reinstalling spark plugs, tighten them either to the correct torque or hand-tighten followed by a quarter turn.
- 🛡️ Apply corrosion guard to all exposed areas, avoiding anodes, to protect against rust and corrosion during storage.
- 🚤 Store the engine upright to prevent any issues and increase the chances of it starting smoothly in the next season.
Q & A
What is the main focus of the video transcript?
-The video focuses on the winterization process of a two-stroke engine, specifically a 2001 Mercury Tracker 25 horsepower, to prepare it for storage during the off-season.
What essential items are needed for the winterization process?
-You will need gear oil, fogging oil, stabilizer, corrosion guard, replacement spark plugs, and a pump for the lower unit. These items help protect the engine during winter storage.
Why is it important to pay attention to the color of the oil when draining it?
-If the oil has a milky appearance, it indicates that water has entered the system, possibly due to a lost seal. This could lead to engine damage if not addressed.
What is the function of a magnetic plug in this context?
-A magnetic plug helps capture and hold any metal shavings that might be circulating in the engine oil, preventing them from causing further damage.
How much gear oil does the 2001 Mercury Tracker engine require during winterization?
-The engine requires a little over 8 ounces of gear oil to be refilled.
Why is a fuel stabilizer used, and how should it be applied?
-A fuel stabilizer prevents fuel from breaking down during storage. It should be added to the fuel tank, and the engine should be run for about 10 minutes to ensure the stabilizer reaches the entire fuel system.
What is the purpose of fogging oil in the winterization process?
-Fogging oil protects the engine’s internal components from corrosion during storage. It is sprayed directly into the carburetor and the cylinders.
How are spark plugs treated during the winterization process?
-The spark plugs are removed, fogging oil is sprayed into the cylinders, the engine is rotated a few times to distribute the oil, and new spark plugs are installed afterward.
What should be done after reinstalling the spark plugs?
-The spark plugs should be tightened to the manufacturer’s specifications using a torque wrench or hand-tightened and then turned an additional quarter turn.
What is the final step in the winterization process?
-The final step is to apply corrosion guard to any exposed, unpainted, or non-stainless parts of the engine to prevent corrosion. The engine should be stored in an upright position to ensure proper drainage and protection.
Outlines
🛠️ Preparing for Winterization of a Boat Engine
John Talley introduces the process of winterizing a two-stroke engine, specifically a 2001 Mercury Tracker 25 horsepower outboard motor. He outlines the tools and chemicals required, such as gear oil, fogging oil, stabilizer, corrosion guard, and replacement spark plugs. He emphasizes the importance of having the correct pump for the lower unit. The focus is on how to drain and inspect the gear oil, noting potential issues like water contamination, and ensuring all parts, including magnetic drain plugs and washers, are in place.
⛽ Fuel System Winterization and Fogging the Engine
The second step involves preparing the boat’s fuel system for winter. Talley explains two methods depending on the type of fuel tank: either add stabilizer to a built-in tank or run fuel through a temporary portable tank. After stabilizing, he advises running the engine and spraying fogging oil into the carburetor to protect the internal jets. Once the engine sputters and stops, he moves on to removing the spark plugs to spray fogging oil directly into the cylinders for protection during storage. This process ensures proper lubrication and guards against corrosion.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Winterization
💡Two-stroke engine
💡Gear oil
💡Fogging oil
💡Corrosion guard
💡Fuel stabilizer
💡Spark plugs
💡Lower unit
💡Magnetic plug
💡Flushing device
Highlights
Introduction to winterization process for a two-stroke Mercury Tracker 25 horsepower engine.
Importance of using correct gear oil, fogging oil, stabilizer, corrosion guard, and replacing spark plugs.
Key observation: Check for a milky look in the gear oil, which indicates a seal failure allowing water to enter the system.
Recommendation to use a magnetic drain plug to catch metal shavings inside the lower unit.
Ensure the drain plug washer is in place to prevent water from entering the lower unit.
The lower unit requires just over 8 ounces of oil to fill.
Discusses adding stabilizer to the fuel system, paying attention to correct stabilizer amount for effective results.
Instructions for running the engine with the stabilizer for 10 minutes to distribute it through the fuel system.
Use fogging oil by spraying it directly into the carburetor once the engine starts to sputter.
Importance of applying fogging oil into the cylinders after removing the spark plugs to prevent corrosion during storage.
Rotate the engine manually after applying fogging oil to ensure even distribution inside the engine.
Recommendation to torque spark plugs to 20 foot-pounds or tighten them by hand and give a quarter turn if no torque wrench is available.
Final step involves coating exposed parts with corrosion guard to protect against rust and corrosion.
Reminder to store the engine in an upright position to ensure proper start-up next season.
Closing note: Encouragement to subscribe and visit boats.net for necessary parts and future instructional videos.
Transcripts
hello john talley here with both dotnet
well it's that time of year again where
we need to put away our toys and to do
this correctly well you need to go
through a process called winterization
now what I'm going to show you today is
just a typical two stroke than one in
particular is the 2001 mercury tracker
25 horsepower gonna be really simple to
do but before we get started let's step
it over to the table and look at the
different parts and chemicals we're
gonna need to pull this off now it's a
really short list and honestly most of
these products you should keep on your
shelf year-round want to make sure
you've got the correct weight gear oil
fogging oil stabilizer and then some
corrosion guard it's not absolutely
required but I want to go ahead and
replace the plugs
since I'm there now the only special
tool you're going to need is the correct
pump that fits to your particular lower
unit so once you've got your parts and
your tools together we go over there and
get this knocked out
so pretty simple to do we just want to
go ahead and remove the overflow and now
we want to remove the drain now here's
where you need to pay a little bit of
attention when you're draining this if
it has a milky look to it that means
you've probably lost a seal somewhere so
you want to pay attention to what's
coming out of it
that explains while it's pushing it out
the top this one actually has ingested
water into the bottom of it but it has
not been in there long enough to
actually emulsify it now sometimes
you'll have a plug with a magnetic tip
which I highly recommend that's going to
pick up and hold any metal shavings that
are flying around in there I don't
believe this one had that particular tip
now I did notice when we pulled this out
not unless it stayed in the actual
bottom of the lower unit I don't see its
washer so that may be why this one has
some water in it it was in there it was
just stuck stuck in the bottom that's
the other trick if you think you've lost
it make sure because you wouldn't want
to stack these either so looks like the
rest of that ooze is drained out so
let's go in get a refilled so let's go
get it filled up this one only takes a
little over 8 ounces I believe and here
it filling up in there there it goes
let's go and get our vent back in now
have your drain ready to go that way
we'll lose the minimal amount
and that's all there is to that so let's
move on to the next next we wanted to
discuss what we need to do with the fuel
system now there's a couple of different
approaches that we're gonna look at here
in the granted this is a smaller engine
so I guarantee you has just got a you
know standalone five or six gallon tank
he usually sits in the boat easily
accessible now if it was actually a fuel
tank that stayed on the boat where it
could not be removed that's when you
need to put in some stabilizer into the
system now you want to pay attention to
whatever stabilizer you use it is going
to tell you the amount that you need to
put in because what you don't want to do
is put in too much and come up your
system or worse than that not put in
enough to where it can do its job but in
either occurrence go ahead and put some
of this into that temporary tank hook up
your flushing device and let it run for
about ten minutes that'll give it time
to pull up the mixture into the fuel
system and what's that's done take the
fuel away and let it run until it's
about to stop you can hear it start to
sputter and at that point you'll take
some of the fogging oil and actually
shoot it straight down the throat of the
carburetor because on this particular
unit it is a carbureted system hence
it's open to atmosphere so you want to
just spray it straight down it's gut and
that's going to carry it in to the Jets
inside the carburetor at that point
it'll shut down but once you've
accomplished that what we want to do
next is actually remove the spark plugs
and then sprayed the fogging oil
directly into the cylinders rotate the
engine a couple of times and then
install those new spark plugs so let's
pretend that I've already run the
machine it was starting to spit I
sprayed some of the straight down into
the carburetor and now the engine is
stopped so we're gonna pick up at
removal of the spark plugs so let's get
these out see how the engine was running
we're in there really loose little on
the rich side but we're not gonna worry
about that right now have that 120-foot
sounds snow we're close
more like five so now it's spray in
about four seconds four more down here
now let's pull it through a couple of
times so just to get things mixed up in
there don't want to pull it real fast
because we don't want to spit out all
that oil that we just put in it we just
want to pull it though
well it did spit out a little bit so I'm
gonna pop just a little bit more in
there just a couple of seconds
it does not hurt have a little bit on
the threads because that'll keep it from
corroding grab a paper towel then we're
doing a little bit of cleaning up get
these torqued in we're pretty much done
now we're going to take these two 20
foot pounds but if you do not have a
torque wrench what you would do is just
take it just hand tight and then a
quarter turn it close right there
make sure they go all the way down to
you hear them click that should get it
now the last thing we're going to do is
code it down with a little bit of
corrosion guard this this material you
can use you know all over it it's cept
for any place that has an a note should
just be big careful of that and you
don't have to douse it we just want it
over most of anything that's exposed and
not painted or stainless and plus it
acts as a lubricant for all of these
different linkages so it will not hurt
them
it goes on in a thin coat
and wherever you're going to store this
make sure is sitting in this upright
position alright guys that pretty much
wraps this one up this one has a very
good chance of starting the first time
when you pull it through at the
beginning of the next season
listen if you need any parts for your
boat once you come see us at boats
dotnet and we can get you taken care of
if you like what you see why don't you
go ahead and hit that subscribe button
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I'm working on next we just want to say
thanks for shopping here at boat net and
we will see you in the next video have a
great day
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