West England

Summary

Join Rick Steves as he explores the West of England, visiting charming Cotswold villages, historic cathedrals, and ancient stone circles. Discover the region's rich history, from medieval wool markets to prehistoric wonders like Stonehenge and Avebury. Along the way, enjoy local traditions such as shuffleboard with an eccentric lord, sampling hard apple cider, and experiencing the serene beauty of the countryside. This episode offers a mix of natural, historic, and cultural highlights, all within a few hours of London.

Takeaways

• 🌳 The West of England is a region rich in natural beauty, historic sites, and cultural experiences, offering a mix of picturesque villages, ancient monuments, and traditional activities.
• 🏞️ The Cotswold hills are characterized by enchanting villages, farmland, and trails, making it an ideal area for walking and appreciating the quintessential English countryside.
• 🏡 The economic boom and bust of the wool industry in the Cotswolds has left a lasting impact, with wealthy wool merchants building fine homes and churches, and the subsequent decline preserving the region's rustic charm.
• 🏰 Chipping Campden is a handsome market town with a High Street that has changed little over the centuries, showcasing the traditional Cotswold stone and a 17th-century market hall.
• 🛤️ Walking is a popular activity in the Cotswolds, with paths and trails connecting villages and offering encounters with stone bridges, sheep, and picturesque views.
• 🏛️ Wells is a city dominated by its glorious cathedral, with a charming medieval center and a history that includes being a significant Christian pilgrimage site.
• 🍺 The traditional English pub experience has evolved, with gastropubs offering fine food and a modern take on the classic pub atmosphere.
• 🍏 Somerset is known for its apple farming, with traditional hard cider, or 'scrumpy', being produced and enjoyed in the region.
• 🏺 Glastonbury is a town with a long history as a religious site, believed to be the burial site of King Arthur and associated with the legend of the Holy Grail.
• 🗿 Prehistoric stone circles like Stonehenge and Avebury are scattered across Britain, serving as ancient centers of ritual and worship and functioning as celestial calendars.

Q & A

Who is the host of the video 'Best of Europe' and what region are they exploring?

The host of the video 'Best of Europe' is Rick Steves, and he is exploring the West of England.

What is the significance of the Cotswold villages in the script?

The Cotswold villages are significant as they represent the quintessential English countryside, rich in history and culture, and are best appreciated on foot with their picturesque landscapes and charming features.

What activity does Rick Steves participate in with the Earl of Wemyss?

Rick Steves participates in playing a game of shuffleboard with the Earl of Wemyss.

What is the historical importance of wool in the Cotswold region?

Wool was a huge industry in medieval England, and the Cotswold region was known for producing the best wool, leading to the prosperity of the area and the construction of fine homes and 'wool cathedrals'.

How did the Cotswold region's economy change with the rise of the cotton industry and the Industrial Revolution?

With the rise of cotton and the Industrial Revolution, the region's wool industry collapsed, leading to a period of depression and the region becoming 'sleeping beauties' until it regained prosperity through tourism.

What is a 'kissing gate' and how is it used?

A 'kissing gate' is a type of gate encountered on hikes in the Cotswolds, designed to allow people but not livestock to pass, and it works better with two people to operate it.

What is the significance of the church in Stanton and why is it dedicated to Saint Michael?

The church in Stanton is significant because it sits upon an ancient pagan site, and it is dedicated to Saint Michael, the archangel who fought the devil, indicating a Christian overlay on a pre-Christian holy site.

What traditional drink is associated with the region visited in the script and what is its alcohol content?

The traditional drink associated with the region is hard apple cider, known locally as 'scrumpy,' which has an alcohol content of 6.8%.

What historical event is linked to Glastonbury and why is it significant?

Glastonbury is linked to the legend of King Arthur and the Holy Grail, and it is significant as it was considered the birthplace of Christianity in England and a major Christian pilgrimage site.

What is unique about the Avebury Stone Circle and what can visitors do there?

The Avebury Stone Circle is unique because visitors are allowed to wander among its 100 stones, and it is one of the prehistoric stone circles that functioned as celestial calendars and sacred centers of ritual and worship.

What is the mystery surrounding Stonehenge and why is it still significant today?

The mystery surrounding Stonehenge includes its original purpose and the methods used to construct it. It remains significant today as it continues to function as a celestial calendar and retains a powerful sense of wonder for visitors.

Outlines

00:00

🏞️ Exploring the West of England

Rick Steves introduces viewers to the West of England, a region rich in natural beauty, history, and culture. He highlights the Cotswold villages, which are best explored on foot, and mentions engaging activities such as playing shuffleboard with an eccentric lord and attending evensong in a cathedral. The region's history is tied to the wool trade, which led to its economic boom and the construction of 'wool cathedrals.' The script also touches on the importance of walking trails and the right to free passage in the English countryside.

05:00

🏰 The Charm of Cotswold Villages and Manors

This section delves into the architectural details of Cotswold buildings, with a focus on the market town of Chipping Campden and its well-preserved medieval structures. The script describes the traditional materials and craftsmanship that define the region's aesthetic. It also explores Stanton, a quintessential Cotswold village, and its strict building code. The narrative continues with a visit to Stanway House, where the Earl of Wemyss shares family heirlooms and plays a game of shuffleboard, offering a glimpse into the life of the English nobility.

10:01

🍻 The Evolution of Pubs and Wells Cathedral

The script discusses the transformation of traditional pubs into gastropubs, offering high-quality food and a cozy atmosphere. It then shifts focus to the city of Wells, known for its magnificent cathedral and medieval center. The cathedral's unique features, such as the 'scissors' arch and the oldest working clock from 1392, are highlighted. The section also touches on the history of the Vicars' Close and the significance of the cathedral's evensong service.

15:02

🍎 The Tradition of Cider Making and Glastonbury's Legacy

Rick Steves visits Somerset to explore the tradition of hard cider production, meeting Roger Wilkins at Land's End Cider Farm. The process of making cider, known as 'scrumpy,' is described, emphasizing its purity and potency. The script then moves to Glastonbury, a town with a rich spiritual history, including its connection to King Arthur and the Holy Grail. The ruins of Glastonbury Abbey and the legend of the Holy Grail are discussed, along with the town's resurgence as a spiritual center.

20:03

🗓️ Prehistoric Mysteries and the Wonder of Stonehenge

The final paragraph explores the spiritual and historical significance of prehistoric stone circles in Britain, focusing on Avebury and Stonehenge. The script describes the celestial functions of these structures and the ongoing debate about their original purpose. The visit to Stonehenge includes a museum visit, a 360-degree theater experience, and a shuttle to the site, culminating in a reflection on the enduring mystery and wonder of this ancient monument.

Keywords

💡West of England

The West of England refers to a region in the western part of England, known for its natural beauty, historic sites, and cultural richness. In the video, Rick Steves explores this area, highlighting its picturesque landscapes and historical significance. The region is depicted as a place where one can experience a mix of natural, historic, and cultural wonders, making it a key focus of the video's theme.

💡Cotswold villages

Cotswold villages are charming rural settlements located in the Cotswold Hills, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in England. These villages are characterized by their honey-colored limestone buildings and idyllic countryside settings. In the script, Rick Steves mentions hiking through these villages, emphasizing their picturesque nature and the quintessential English countryside experience they offer.

💡Earl of Wemyss

The Earl of Wemyss is a title held by a nobleman in the British aristocracy. In the video, Rick Steves visits Stanway House, home of the Earl of Wemyss, and engages in a game of shuffleboard with him. The Earl's eccentric personality and the historical context of his home contribute to the exploration of the region's aristocratic heritage and the lifestyle of England's nobility.

💡Cathedral

A cathedral is a Christian church that contains the seat of a bishop, typically a large and important church. In the script, Rick Steves tours a striking cathedral and attends evensong, a choral service. The cathedral's architecture and the tradition of evensong are highlighted as significant cultural and religious aspects of the West of England.

💡Neolithic Age

The Neolithic Age, also known as the New Stone Age, is a period in human history characterized by the development of agriculture and the use of polished stone tools. In the video, Rick Steves explores prehistoric stone circles, such as Stonehenge and Avebury, which are remnants of the Neolithic Age. These structures serve as a connection to the ancient past and the early human settlements in the region.

💡Hard apple cider

Hard apple cider, also known as scrumpy, is a traditional alcoholic beverage made from fermented apple juice. In the script, Rick Steves visits a cider farm and samples this drink, which is a local specialty in the West of England. The mention of hard apple cider ties into the region's agricultural heritage and the experience of traditional English rural life.

💡Wool industry

The wool industry refers to the production and trade of wool, which was a significant economic activity in medieval England. The Cotswold region prospered due to its high-quality wool, leading to the construction of fine homes and churches. The script discusses the economic boom and subsequent decline of the wool industry, which shaped the region's history and current charm.

💡Kissing gate

A kissing gate is a type of gate found in rural areas, designed to allow people but not livestock to pass through. In the video, Rick Steves encounters a kissing gate during his hike, which serves as an example of the region's rural infrastructure and the unique experiences available to walkers in the English countryside.

💡Glastonbury

Glastonbury is a town in Somerset, England, known for its religious and historical significance. The script mentions Glastonbury as a place with a holy aura, dating back to the Bronze Age, and as the burial site of King Arthur. The town's connection to ancient religious practices and legends adds to the mystical and spiritual aspects of the region explored in the video.

💡Stone circles

Stone circles are prehistoric structures consisting of large standing stones arranged in a circle. In the video, Rick Steves visits Avebury and Stonehenge, two famous stone circles in England. These sites are depicted as sacred centers of ritual and worship, functioning as celestial calendars and offering insights into the ancient religious practices of the region.

💡Chalice Well

The Chalice Well is a natural spring in Glastonbury, associated with legends of the Holy Grail. In the script, Rick Steves discusses the well's historical and spiritual significance, suggesting that it has been a site of pilgrimage and healing for centuries. The Chalice Well represents the mystical and spiritual aspects of the region, connecting it to both ancient and modern seekers.

Highlights

Exploring the West of England, a region rich with natural beauty, history, and culture.

The Cotswold villages offer picturesque landscapes and a quintessential English countryside experience.

The importance of walking as a means to appreciate the Cotswolds and the region's trails.

The historical significance of the Cotswold wool industry and its impact on the region's architecture and economy.

The story of the rise and fall of the wool industry and how it shaped the Cotswold towns.

The architectural features of Cotswold buildings, including the use of local limestone and traditional stone shingles.

The role of Stow-on-the-Wold as a historic wool market and its current status as a charming village.

A visit to Stanway House, a noble family home, and a personal tour by the Earl of Wemyss.

The tradition of cutting and preserving family members' hair as a memento, as seen in Stanway House.

The historical game of shuffleboard played at Stanway House and its origins in the time of Henry VIII.

The experience of Wells Cathedral, its architectural features, and the tradition of evensong.

The production and tasting of traditional Somerset scrumpy cider at Land's End Cider Farm.

The spiritual and historical significance of Glastonbury, including its connection to King Arthur and the Holy Grail.

The prehistoric stone circles of Avebury and their function as celestial calendars.

The mystery and magnificence of Stonehenge, its alignment with the heavens, and its enduring enigma.

The enduring appeal of the West of England as a region for travelers seeking history, culture, and natural beauty.

Transcripts

-Hi. I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe.

This time, we're exploring a gorgeous region,

where druids dance and waterwheels turn.

It's the West of England.

Thanks for joining us.

♪♪

If you like England and you want to mix its natural,

historic, and cultural wonders,

you'll love the West.

While everything in this episode's

within a couple hours of London,

out here, it feels a world away from the big city.

After hiking through picturesque Cotswold villages,

we'll play shuffleboard with an eccentric lord.

Earl of Wemyss: That's a nice one.

We'll tour a striking cathedral,

and attend evensong.

After going way back to the Neolithic Age,

we'll zoom into the new age.

And we'll top it off with some hard apple cider

straight from the farmer.

Great Britain is made of England, Scotland, and Wales.

And we're exploring the West of England.

Starting in the Cotswolds,

we visit Stow-on-the-Wold and Chipping Campden.

Then it's south to Wells, Glastonbury,

and the prehistoric stone circles

of Stonehenge and Avebury.

The Cotswold hills are dotted

with enchanting villages and bucolic farmland.

And it's all laced together by wonderful trails.

This is the quintessential English countryside.

And it's walking country.

The Cotswolds are best appreciated on foot,

and that's how we'll tour the area.

The region's made to order for tenderfeet.

You'll encounter time-passed villages,

delightful vistas, and poetic moments.

You'll discover hidden stone bridges,

cut across fancy front yards,

and enjoy close encounters with lots of sheep.

The English love their walks,

and defend their age-old right to free passage.

And they organize to assure

that landowners respect this law, too.

Any paths found blocked are unceremoniously unblocked.

While landlords have plenty of fences,

they provide plenty of gates as well.

You'll encounter all sorts of gates on these hikes.

This one's called a "kissing gate" --

it works better with two.

Lower Slaughter is a classic example

of a Cotswold village,

with a babbling brook,

charming gardens,

and a working water mill.

Just above the mill,

a delightful cafe overlooks the mill pond.

As with many fairy-tale regions in Europe,

the present-day beauty of the Cotswolds

was the result of an economic disaster.

Wool was a huge industry in medieval England.

And Cotswold sheep grew the very best.

According to a 12th-century saying,

"In Europe, the best wool is English.

And in England, the best wool is Cotswold."

It's a story of boom and bust, and then boom again.

Because of its wool, the region prospered.

Wealthy wool merchants built fine homes

of the honey-colored, local limestone.

Thankful to God for the riches their sheep brought,

they built over-sized churches nicknamed "wool cathedrals."

But with the rise of cotton and the Industrial Revolution,

the region's wool industry collapsed.

The fine Cotswold towns fell into a depressed time warp,

becoming sleeping beauties.

Because of that, the region has a rustic charm.

And that's the basis of today's new prosperity.

Its residents are catering to lots of tourists,

and the Cotswolds have become a popular escape for Londoners --

people who can afford thatched mansions like these.

In England, "Main Street" is called "the High Street" --

and in Cotswold market towns,

High Street was built wide,

designed to handle thousands of sheep on market days.

The handsome market town of Chipping Campden

has a High Street that's changed little over the centuries.

Everything you see was made

of the same finely worked Cotswold stone,

the only stone allowed today.

Roofs still use the traditional stone shingles.

To make the weight easier to bear,

smaller and lighter slabs are higher up.

A 17th-century market hall,

with its original stonework from top to bottom intact,

marks the town center.

Hikers admire the surviving medieval workmanship.

You can imagine centuries of wheelings and dealings

that took place under these very rafters.

Continuing our walk,

we come to the quaint village of Stanton.

Travel writers tend to overuse the word "quaint."

I save it for here in the Cotswolds.

A strict building code keeps towns

looking what many locals call "overly quaint."

Village churches welcome walkers

to pop in and enjoy a thoughtful break.

This church probably sits upon an ancient pagan site.

How do we know? It's dedicated to Saint Michael.

And Michael, the archangel who fought the devil,

still guards the door.

Inside, you get a sense that this church

has comforted this community in good times and bad.

Pre-Christian symbols decorate the columns,

perhaps left over from those pagan days.

And the list of rectors goes way back,

without a break, to the year 1269.

This church was built with wool money.

In fact, they say generations of sheepdog leashes

actually wore these grooves.

I guess a shepherd took his dog everywhere,

even to church.

Throughout this region,

a few of the vast domains of England's

most powerful families have survived.

The Cotswolds are dotted with elegant,

Downton Abbey-type mansions.

Today, with the high cost of maintenance and heavy taxes,

some noble families have opened their homes

to the public to help pay the bills.

Stanway House, home of the Earl of Wemyss,

is one such venerable manor house.

The Earl, whose family goes back centuries,

welcomes visitors two days a week.

Walking through his house offers a surprisingly intimate glimpse

into the lifestyles of England's nobility.

And the gracious and likeably eccentric Earl has agreed

to personally show us around his ancestral home,

including a peak at some touching family mementos.

Earl of Wemyss: Hair, cut off at a death in the family.

Rick: That was a tradition?

Early of Wemyss: It was, certainly in this house it was a tradition.

And it's kept in this drawer, here. And, um, for instance, this is,

this says "Papa's hair. My sister gave it me March the 11th, 1771."

Rick: This piece of paper is from 1771? Earl of Wemyss: Mm-hmm.

And then that's the hair inside. Rick: Oh, my goodness!

Earl of Wemyss:...just as fresh as the day it was cut off.

Rick: Whoa! Earl of Wemyss: And that's his hair,

cut off on the day his wife died of pneumonia.

Rick: So this is a huge table. Earl of Wemyss: It is.

It's 23 feet long. Rick: And what's the game?

Earl of Wemyss: It's called "shuffleboard" or "shovelboard."

Rick: Mm-hmm.

Earl of Wemyss: It was known in Henry VIII's time.

This one was built, we think, in 1625,

just the beginning of the reign of Charles I.

And you use these 10 pieces

and you try and... Rick: Let's try a game!

Earl of Wemyss:...shovel the lot to the far end.

That's a nice one.

Rick: It may be a game for English aristocrats.

But this Yankee commoner is gonna give it a try.

Earl of Wemyss: Very good. Very good. One point.

Very good.

Very nice, but two foot short.

Rick: Another interesting artifact

is what was called a "chamber horse,"

a sprung exercise chair from the 1750s.

Earl of Wemyss: And you did that. You'd bounce up and down.

And your liver gets shaken.

Rick: For 100 years, fine ladies would sit on here and...

Earl of Wemyss: Yep. Rick:...get their liver done.

Earl of Wemyss: And fine gentlemen, too.

Rick: Fine gentlemen too, yep.

A "chamber horse."

I guess that makes sense, doesn't it? Yeah.

Earl of Wemyss: It's just like going to the gym nowadays.

Rick: Lord Wemyss has rebuilt the old fountain in his backyard,

and today -- as one of the highest gravity-fed

fountains in the world rockets 300 feet into the sky --

it's the talk of the Cotswolds.

For commoners, the Lord's sprawling parkland backyard

makes for a jolly-good day out.

While not quite in a noble mansion,

we're sleeping plenty comfortably just down the road

in the village of Stow-on-the-Wold.

Stow mixes medieval charm with a workaday reality.

A selection of traditional pubs,

cute shops, and inviting cafés ring its busy square.

For centuries, the square hosted a huge wool market.

The historic Market Cross stood tall,

reminding all Christian merchants

to trade fairly under the sight of God.

And stocks like these were handy

when a scoundrel deserved a little public ridicule.

People came from as far away as Italy

to buy the prized Cotswold wool fleeces.

You can imagine, with 20,000 sheep sold on a single day,

it was a thriving scene.

The sheep would be paraded into the market

down narrow "fleece alleys" like this.

They were built really narrow 'cause it forced

the sheep to go single file,

so they could count them as they entered the market.

And ever since those medieval market days,

pubs have been the place to gather [and]

enjoy a meal, and a pint of beer.

Tonight, we're checking out a gastropub --

that's a pub known for its fine food.

While many things that pubs provide, like the cozy ambience

and community-living-room vibe haven't changed,

other things -- like the quality of the food -- certainly have.

This isn't your grandmother's pub grub.

Pubs are putting more effort into their offerings.

Creative chefs are shaking up England's reputation for food,

and you won't find mushy peas anywhere on this menu.

We're enjoying guinea fowl

and artfully prepared fish with fresh vegetables.

A short drive south take us into Somerset

and to the wonderfully preserved city of Wells,

dominated by its glorious cathedral.

Wells has a charming medieval center.

The stately Bishop's Palace is circled by a park-like moat

and sports an impressive front yard.

It's a market city -- and has been for a long time.

The peaceful Vicars' Close is perfectly preserved,

lined with 14th-century houses.

Locals claim this is the oldest,

complete medieval street in Europe.

Originally built to house the cathedral choir, it still does.

This overpass connects it with the cathedral.

England's first completely Gothic church dates

from about 1200.

The west portal shows off

what's said to be the greatest collection of medieval statuary

anywhere in Europe --

about 300 13th-century carvings.

This entire ensemble was once painted in vivid color.

It must have been a spectacular welcome --

a heavenly host proclaiming

"welcome to worship."

Stepping inside, you're struck by the unique

and ingenious "scissors" arch.

This hour-glass-shaped double arch was added

in about 1340 to bolster the church's sagging tower.

Nearly 700 years later

it's not only still working, it's beautiful.

[ Bell chimes ]

The chimes draw your attention

to one of the oldest working clocks in the world -- from 1392.

The clock does its much-loved joust on the quarter hour.

More medieval whimsy is carved into the capitals:

This man has a toothache.

Another pulls a thorn from his foot.

And a farmer clobbers a thief so hard,

his hat falls off.

[ Choir singing ]

And under glorious stained glass,

you can enjoy the cathedral's evensong.

[ choir sings ]

The evensong is a Church of England choral service

traditionally performed each evening

and welcoming everyone.

Taking a seat in the intimate central part of the church,

we enjoy the opportunity to experience

the church filled with timeless music.

Because we're here in July,

the cathedral's choir is on break,

and a visiting choir is performing.

This one's from near Liverpool.

[ Choir singing ]

[ Singing continues ]

The countryside around Wells is great for growing apples.

And you can visit farms that brew the authentic hard cider,

known around here as "scrumpy."

While cider is becoming more and more refined and popular,

the traditional scrumpy still attracts a devoted crowd,

especially here in Somerset.

And at Land's End Cider Farm,

Roger Wilkins is as old-school as it comes.

His enthusiasm alone is intoxicating.

Rick: Did your father make this same cider?

Roger: Me father did, but actually, I learned it off me grandfather.

The actual makin' of the cider is exactly the same now

as me grandfather done it.

Alls we do is crush 'em up, press the apples,

the natural juice comes out,

and the yeast is in the skin of the apple,

so I don't put nothin' at all in it.

It's the purest drink you'll get.

Rick: We head into the tasting room,

which I'm guessing looks about the same as it did

when Roger's grandfather ran the place.

It's time to sample the pure apple taste of scrumpy,

along with its 6.8 alcohol content.

Rick: I've heard that when you drink scrumpy,

you've got to be careful. Roger: Well, yeah.

It can knock you about if you ain't used to it.

Gallon a day keep the doctor away!

Rick: I've heard some --

I've heard some pubs actually don't serve it because...

Roger: No. No. They won't, some.

If you go in now, they'll serve you a half a pint, eh.

Rick: And it's pure so it --

it's so pure that, in the morning, no problem?

Roger: No problem at all. No headaches.

Rick: Yeah? Roger: No hangovers. No nothin'.

Rick: That may be true, but after my tasting,

I'm making sure my producer does the driving.

Throughout England, the countryside is picturesque.

And it hides a fascinating history,

a history that goes back thousands of years

to prehistoric times.

Mysterious figures carved into hillsides,

curious man-made mountains,

ancient bridges,

and legends that go back to Camelot and beyond.

Glastonbury, a modest market town today,

has long had a holy aura.

It was a religious sight back in the Bronze Age.

That's about 1500 B.C.

It's also considered the birthplace

of Christianity in England

and the burial sight of the legendary King Arthur.

Centuries before Christ, this hill,

called a "tor," marked Glastonbury.

For thousands of years,

pilgrims and seekers have climbed it.

Today, it's capped by the ruins of a church

dedicated to Saint Michael.

Remember, because Saint Michael

was the Christian antidote to paganism,

it's a good bet this church sits upon

a pre-Christian holy site.

Seen by many as a mother goddess symbol,

the Glastonbury tor has long attracted

a variety of travelers and seekers.

And the tor has a Biblical connection, as well.

For centuries, pilgrims have come here

to Glastonbury on a quest for the legendary Holy Grail.

You see, Joseph of Arimathea,

who was an uncle of Christ, was a tin trader.

And even back in Biblical times,

Britain was well known as a rare place

where tin could be mined.

Considering that, Joseph could have sat right here

with the chalice that Jesus drank from

at the Last Supper -- in his satchel.

Near the base of the hill is a calm and meditative garden

built around a natural spring.

According to legend, the Holy Grail lies

at the bottom of the Chalice Well.

In the past, people came here for physical healing.

Today, seekers still come for healing.

But it's more for a wellness of the mind and soul.

England's first church was built here,

at the base of the hill next to the Chalice Well.

Eventually, a great abbey

was built on the site of that church.

Mix the scant ruins of England's first church

with the mystique of King Arthur and the Holy Grail,

add the hard work of a busy monastery,

and, by the 12th century, Glastonbury Abbey

was the leading Christian pilgrimage site

in all of Britain.

It was huge, employing 1,000 people

to serve the needs of its pilgrims.

At its peak, Glastonbury Abbey

was England's most powerful and wealthy.

It was part of a network of monasteries that,

by the year 1500, challenged the King.

They owned about a quarter of all English land.

They had more money than the King.

To King Henry VIII, abbeys like this were political obstacles.

In 1536, he solved that by

dissolving England's monasteries.

He was particularly harsh on Glastonbury.

He not only destroyed its magnificent church,

but for emphasis, his men hung the abbot,

displayed his head on the abbey gates,

and sent his quartered body

on four different national tours... at the same time.

Without its wealthy abbey, the town fell into a depression.

But Glastonbury rebounded.

An 18th-century tourism campaign,

with thousands claiming that water from the Chalice Well

actually healed them, put Glastonbury back on the map.

Today, Glastonbury and its mysterious hill

are a center for "searchers,"

popular with those on their own spiritual quest.

Part of the fun of a visit here is just being in a town

where goddesses go for their conventions,

where every other shop has a New-Age focus

and where alternative is the norm.

For a more tangible look

at the spiritual mystery of this countryside,

prehistoric stone circles

are scattered all across Britain.

These circles, many as old as Egypt's pyramids,

were sacred centers of ritual and worship.

They functioned as celestial calendars.

5,000 years ago, locals could tell when to plant

and when to party according to where the sun rose

and where the sun set.

It still works that way today.

At the Avebury Stone Circle,

you're free to wander among 100 stones.

Visitors ponder the cohesive ensemble of ditches,

mounds, and megaliths --

the work of people clearly on a mission

from thousands of years ago.

The huge circle, while cut in two by a busy road

and so big it contains a village,

retains its allure and wonder.

And nearby stands Silbury Hill,

a yet-to-be-explained man-made mountain of chalk.

For more than 4,000 years,

this largest man-made construction

from prehistoric Europe

is just another edifice from England's mysterious

and ancient religious landscape.

And exactly what's it all mean?

We'll never know for sure.

It's like looking at the ruins of a medieval church

and from that alone trying to understand Christianity.

Stonehenge is the most famous of Britain's stone circles.

A visit starts at the museum,

where you'll see artifacts

from the Stone Age people who built it.

A 360-degree theater demonstrates

how the structure is aligned with the heavens,

marking both the longest

and the shortest days of the year.

And outside, a thatched-hut hamlet helps you imagine

how its Neolithic builders once lived.

Huge stones like this replica were quarried,

carved and then moved for many miles,

some of them from as far away as Wales,

200 miles to the west.

They barged them down rivers;

they may have rolled them on logs like this --

nobody knows for sure.

After this introduction,

a bus shuttles you to the site.

Visitors are in awe as they ponder

the continuously debated purposes

and meaning of Stonehenge.

The major stones were erected

at the end of the Stone Age,

just before the advent of metal tools.

It's amazing to think that some of these cross stones

have been in place for 4,500 years.

Whatever its original purpose,

Stonehenge still functions as a celestial calendar.

Even in modern times,

the sun rises on the longest day of the year

in just the right spot.

And it retains its powerful sense of wonder

over those who gather.

For over 4,000 years in a row,

this ensemble of stones, so artfully assembled,

has silently done its duty.

[ Crow cawing ]

Why here and for what purpose?

These questions, along with many more about Stonehenge,

remain shrouded in mystery.

But there's no mystery at all about the fact

that this part of England

is a fascinating region to explore.

Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves.

Until next time, keep on travelin'.

-Ah, you've got a big one. -Oh, you...

-There you go. [ Laughter ]

-You read on there?

-Considering that, Joseph could've sat

right here with the...

Ah!

This is the quintessential English countryside.

And it's walking country.