【どんなカメラでも使える】良い画質で撮影するための基礎知識、教えます

Summary

このビデオでは、カメラの基本要素である絞り（f-number）、シャッタースピード、およびISOを解説し、より鮮明で鮮やかな写真を撮影するためのテクニックを紹介します。カメラの揺れや主体のぼかしを抑制する方法や、フォーカスの重要性とオートフォーカスの使い方についても詳しく説明しています。また、レンズの選択とその性能、さらにはISOの適切な設定とノイズの管理方法も学ぶことができます。

Takeaways

• 📷 カメラの種類に関係なく、鮮明で鋭い画像を撮影する方法について説明している。
• 🎥 動画撮影では、異なるカメラを使用し、特にシングルレンズカメラの使い方について語っている。
• 🔍 鮮明で鋭い画像を撮影するために、絞り（f-number）、シャッタースピード、ISOという3つの要素が重要な役割を果たしている。
• 🕰️ カメラ振れと被写体ブレは、画像がぼやける主な原因であり、シャッタースピードを調整することで抑制できる。
• 🏞️ 静止画を撮影する際には、レンズの焦点長に応じてシャッタースピードを設定することが重要である。
• 🚶 人物や動く物体を撮影する際には、その速度に合わせてシャッタースピードを調整する必要がある。
• 🌟 絞り（f-number）を小さく設定することで、より多くの光を浴びせることができ、背景ボケが得られるが、ピントが合わない部分が増える可能性がある。
• 📶 自動フォーカスシステムの使い方と、単一オートフォーカス（AF-S）と連続オートフォーカス（AF-C）の違いについて解説している。
• 🔍 撮影後に画像を拡大し、フォーカスの合ったことを確認することが成功の鍵であると強調している。
• 🌑 ISOを上げることにより、暗いシーンでも明るい画像を撮影できるが、ノイズが加わる可能性がある。
• 🔧 レンズの性能が画像の質に直接関係しており、高級レンズは周辺でも美しい画像品質を提供する。

Q & A

ケイスクのビデオではどのようなカメラを使用していますか？

ケイスクはシングルレンズカメラや小型カメラ（例：osm pocket）を使い、またCanon Powershot V10などさまざまな小型カメラを異なる目的に応じて使用しています。

ビデオの中でケイスクが紹介する撮影の基本要素は何ですか？

ケイスクが紹介する撮影の基本要素は絞り（f-number）、シャッタースピード、ISOの3つです。これらは写真やビデオの明るさと質を決定する要素です。

ケイスクはどのようにしてカメラのぶれを防ぐことを説明していますか？

カメラのぶれを防ぐためには、シャッタースピードを上げることが有効で、特に望遠レンズを使用する場合は、レンズの焦点距離に応じたシャッタースピードを設定することが重要です。

ケイスクがビデオで述べた「被写体ぶれ」とは何を指していますか？

「被写体ぶれ」とは、カメラのぶれではなく、撮影対象が画像の中央にぼやけてしまうことを指しています。これは対象が動いている場合に発生する可能性があります。

シャッタースピードをどのように設定すれば、日常生活中のほとんどの場面でぼけない写真を撮影できますか？

ケイスクは、通常の写真撮影ではシャッタースピードを1/125秒に設定することで、ほとんどの場面でぼけない写真を撮影できると説明しています。

ケイスクがビデオで紹介する「ピンポイントにピントを合わせる」テクニックとは何ですか？

ピンポイントにピントを合わせるテクニックとは、カメラの自動フォーカスシステムを使って特定のポイントにフォーカスを合わせ、その後マニュアルフォーカスに切り替えることで、そのポイントが常にピントに収まるように撮影するテクニックです。

ISOを上げるとどのような影響が生じますか？

ISOを上げると、暗いシーンでも明るく見えるようになりますが、画像にノイズが加わる可能性があります。ノイズは後から編集で取り除くことができますが、ぼけやピントのずれは修正できません。

ケイスクはどのようにしてビデオの最後でレンズの性能について説明していますか？

ケイスクはレンズの性能が画像やビデオの質に直接関係していると説明し、高価なレンズはコンパクトで絞り値を低く設定できることがあり、画像の周辺でも美しい描写が可能であるとしています。

ビデオの中でケイスクが推奨するシャッタースピードと絞り値の組み合わせとはどのようなものですか？

ケイスクは、シャッタースピードを1/125秒に設定し、絞り値をf/4からf/5.6などに設定することで、画像の質を保証することができると推奨しています。

ケイスクはビデオでどのようにしてフォーカスの重要性を強調していますか？

ケイスクは、フォーカスのずれは後から修正が困難であると強調し、撮影時に必ず画像を拡大してピントを確認することが重要であると語っています。

ケイスクのビデオでは、どのような状況でAF-SとAF-Cを使い分けると説明していますか？

静止した物体を撮影する場合はAF-Sが適している一方、動く物体を追跡して撮影する場合はAF-Cが適しているとケイスクが説明しています。

ケイスクはビデオでどのような編集ソフトウェアの機能を紹介していますか？

ケイスクは、Lightroomという写真編集ソフトウェアのAIノイズ除去機能を紹介しており、ISOを上げた場合のノイズを取り除くことができますとしています。

ケイスクのビデオでは、どのような理由からレンズの絞り値を上げることがあると説明していますか？

レンズの絞り値を上げると、ピントの範囲が広くなり、画像のモディファイcationが小さくなるため、特に低価格のレンズでも画像質を向上させることができるとケイスクが説明しています。

ケイスクのビデオでは、どのようにしてより鮮明でシャープな写真を撮影することができると説明していますか？

ケイスクは、シャッタースピードの調整、適切な絞り値の選択、ISOのバランスの取り方、そしてレンズの性能を考慮してより鮮明でシャープな写真を撮影することができると説明しています。

Outlines

00:00

📸 カメラ選びと撮影の基本

ケイスクはさまざまなカメラを使用してコーヒーのビデオを撮影する予定を説明し、特に一眼レフカメラや小型カメラの使用を好むことを明かしました。また、ソーシャルメディアで鮮明で鋭い画像を撮影する方法を紹介し、ビデオの最後まで見ることで、美しい画像がどのように作られているか理解できると期待しています。

05:02

🔍 カメラ振れと被写界のぼかしの理解

ケイスクはカメラ振れと被写界のぼかしを解説し、シャッタースピードがこれらにどのように影響するかを説明しました。さらに、望遠レンズを使用する際のシャッタースピードの調整や、動く被写体を撮影する際のシャッタースピードの重要性を強調しました。

10:09

🌑 ISOと絞りによる画像の明るさとノイズのバランス

ISOの値が画像の明るさとノイズのレベルにどのように影響するかをケイスクが解説しています。また、ノイズを後から減らすことができる一方で、ぼかしや焦点の誤ちは修正できないことを強調しています。

15:15

🌟 レンズの性能と絞りによる画像品質の向上

レンズの性能が画像品質に与える影響と、高価なレンズがコンパクトで高性能な理由についてケイスクが解説しています。さらに、絞りを通じて画像の焦点範囲を広げ、ぼかし効果を作り出す方法や、適切な絞り設定でレンズの性能を最大限に引き出す方法についても触れています。

20:19

📚 カメラの基本設定と撮影のステップアップ

ケイスクはカメラの基本設定を紹介し、撮影技術を向上させるためのステップアップの方法を提案しています。また、ビデオの概要セクションにリンクを提供して、F値やISOなどの詳細情報を提供し、視聴者がより良い写真やビデオを撮影できるようにしています。

Keywords

💡カメラシェイク

カメラシェイクとは、手持ちカメラを振動させることによって画像に生じるブレを指します。ビデオでは、カメラシェイクを避ける方法としてシャッタースピードの調整が紹介されており、高速シャッタースピードで画像を撮影することでシェイクを抑えることができます。例えば、「シャッタースピードを上げること」でシェイクをコントロールするシーンがあります。

💡シャッタースピード

シャッタースピードは、カメラのシャッターが開いている時間の長さを意味し、画像の明るさと動きの停止を制御する重要な要素です。ビデオでは、シャッタースピードが速ければ画像は暗くなり、低速だと画像は明るくなりますが、低速では主体が動いた場合にブレが生じる可能性があると説明されています。

💡ISO

ISOは、カメラの感光度を意味し、ISOが高くなれば暗いシーンでも明るく撮影できますが、ノイズが加わる可能性があります。ビデオでは、ISOを上げることの利点とデメリットが議論されており、ノイズが後から編集で取り除けることがある一方で、ブレや焦点の逸れは修正できないと強調されています。

💡焦点

焦点は、画像の特定の領域が清晰に見える状態です。ビデオでは、焦点を合わせることの重要性が説明されており、特に「ピンポイントに焦点を合わせる」ことが、鮮明で美しい画像を撮影する鍵であるとされています。また、オートフォーカスシステムの使い方やマニュアルフォーカスの選択についても触れられています。

💡f数値

f数値は、カメラのレンズの絞り（APERTURE）の大きさを示す指標であり、低f数値は絞りの開放状態を意味します。ビデオでは、f数値が低ければ背景がぼやけるような「ブラー」効果が得られ、高f数値になると焦点範囲が広がることで画像の全体が清晰になることが説明されています。

💡レンズ

レンズは、カメラの画像品質を決定づける重要な部品です。ビデオでは、レンズの種類や価格帯が画像品質に与える影響について触れられており、高価格のレンズは中心から周辺まで美しく再现できるとされています。また、レンズのf数値を上げることによって画像のモディファイcationを抑えることができると説明されています。

💡オートフォーカス

オートフォーカスは、カメラが自動で主体に焦点を合わせる機能です。ビデオでは、AF-S（シングルオートフォーカス）とAF-C（連続オートフォーカス）の使い分け方や、マニュアルフォーカスでの撮影テクニックが紹介されています。オートフォーカスは、主体が静止している場合や動きの少ない場合に適しており、主体が動く場合は連続追尾に適したAF-Cを使用することが推奨されています。

💡ノイズ

ノイズは、画像に生じる不純な模様で、特に高ISO設定で撮影した際に発生しやすくなります。ビデオでは、ノイズが画像の美しさを損なう要因であるとされ、しかし最近のカメラや編集ソフトウェアではノイズを減らす機能があると紹介されています。

💡ブラー

ブラーは、カメラの絞りが開かれている状態で背景がぼやける効果のことです。ビデオでは、低f数値のレンズを使用することでブラー効果を作り出す方法が説明されており、これは特にポートレート写真などで主体を引き立たせる効果として利用されます。

💡ピンポイントフォーカス

ピンポイントフォーカスは、カメラの焦点を非常に細かく調整し、主体の特定のポイントに焦点を合わせる技術です。ビデオでは、ピンポイントフォーカスを使用することで、主体の目や細部に焦点を合わせ、鮮明で印象的な画像を撮影することができると説明されています。

Highlights

今天的视频将使用不同的相机拍摄咖啡，包括单镜头反光相机和小型相机如OSMO Pocket和Canon Powershot V10。

视频将展示如何使用任何相机拍摄更清晰、更锐利的图片，适合社交网络分享。

介绍了摄影中的三个基本元素：光圈（f-number）、快门速度和ISO，它们决定了照片或视频的亮度和质量。

解释了光圈大小如何影响进光量和景深，以及如何避免照片模糊。

讨论了快门速度与相机抖动和拍摄对象模糊之间的关系，并提供了避免模糊的建议。

提供了根据不同焦距调整快门速度以避免相机抖动的具体建议。

解释了如何通过调整快门速度来控制拍摄运动中的物体，例如鸟类或汽车，以避免主体模糊。

分享了设置相机快门速度以避免日常拍摄中模糊的个人技巧。

讨论了自动对焦（AF-S）和连续对焦（AF-C）的使用情况和它们的区别。

强调了拍摄后检查图像焦点的重要性，以确保图像质量。

介绍了ISO设置对照片亮度和噪点的影响，以及如何在低光环境下平衡ISO设置。

提到了现代相机中的双原生ISO功能，以及它如何帮助在高ISO设置下减少噪点。

强调了镜头质量对于图像质量的重要性，以及昂贵镜头相对于便宜镜头的优势。

讨论了通过调整光圈（f-stop）来提高图像质量，尤其是在使用便宜镜头时。

分享了在拍摄风景时通常会增加光圈值以提高图像质量的个人经验。

总结了视频中介绍的摄影知识，并鼓励观众将这些技巧应用到自己的拍摄实践中。

视频最后呼吁观众订阅频道，并期待下一个视频的内容。

Transcripts

~~

Hi, this is Keisuke. I'm also going to shoot a video of this coffee today.

You can use the main camera to film the other side of it.

Plus even more, like filming the other side of it for YouTube.

We used a lot of different cameras to shoot this.

I really use a single-lens camera.

That's exactly what I just used.

I use these single-lens reflex cameras, too.

That's exactly what I do with a small camera, an osm pocket, and so on.

And then there's the Canon Powershot V10 and so on.

I have a lot of different small cameras.

And I use them for different purposes.

Today's video is also for those big cameras.

A story that can be used with any camera, even a small camera

Clearer with any smaller camera

Sharper images with any smaller camera

I'll show you how to take sharper pictures on social networking sites.

If you're wondering why it looks so beautiful in these pictures, it's because it's not...

Please watch this video to the end.

I hope you can make use of it for your own filming!

Let's get started!

~~

Yes, we're coming to the usual place

This time with a small camera like this.

Any scene with a big camera

Of how to shoot sharp and clear

I'd like to show you some basic knowledge

I'm definitely going to introduce this knowledge.

There are three elements

That is f-number, shutter speed, and ISO

Those are the three.

Some of you may not be familiar with this.

These three elements are

Determines the brightness of a photo or video

Determines the brightness and quality of a photo or video

And, you know, I'm going to show you some details about this.

I'm really sorry, but the video is going to be so long that it's going to kill you.

I'm going to put some of my old videos in the overview section.

I'm just trying to figure out why the f-number is there in the first place.

Why do you mean shutter speed in the first place?

If you don't know what it is

If you can watch that video first, you'll be able to understand what I'm saying.

I'd be very happy to do that.

And of course, in this video

I'm going to give a simplified explanation.

I'm going to explain it in detail, but it's going to be long.

If you want to learn it well

If you can watch that video

I'd be happy to do that.

And what do you mean by a sharp, clear picture?

A picture like this.

How about this?

I think the picture is pretty clear.

This is the way to get this kind of picture.

The point is, this is like no blur or something.

The point is that there is no blurring or blurring of the image.

Good resolution

Those elements are intertwined to make a picture.

So the first thing to explain is the blurring.

It's obvious.

When you want to take a picture of something, that's when you're going to take a picture of something.

Basically, a picture without blurring is

I think it's wonderful.

And of course, a blurry picture is also a good thing.

It can be a way of expression

That's what it is, but

I've learned to take a decent picture without blurriness and I've learned to take a decent picture without blurriness.

After taking that blur-free picture

This scene would be better if there was a blur.

I thought it would give me a better way to express myself.

I think the fact that you can add blurring is a good thing.

I think that's a very good photo.

No, it's not that, it just happened to be blurry.

I think it's a good idea...

It's hard for me to grow as a person.

I'm just trying to learn how to take pictures without blurring.

You have to input it into your mind first, and then you can take a picture.

And then you have to express it in the way that you want to express it.

I think it is better to use "blurring".

So what can we do to eliminate the blurring?

There are two major types of blurring.

One is camera shake.

Well, you've heard of that, right?

The other thing we're talking about is subject blur.

This is even if you don't have camera shake

The point is the subject you are photographing.

The subject you're trying to capture in the middle of the picture is blurred

This is called subject blur

So, first of all, how to eliminate camera shake

I'm going to show you how to eliminate camera shake with any camera.

I'd like to show you how to do it.

That's... the shutter speed.

The shutter speed itself is

You can kind of see what it looks like.

Like this, if you have a fast shutter speed...

You're only capturing the light that's coming in at this moment.

If it were a slower shutter speed now

You would capture this amount of light for this amount of time.

The slower the shutter speed, the brighter the picture.

The faster the shutter speed, the darker the photo

But the longer you're capturing that spectral response, the more time you're capturing that spectral response.

If the subject moves during that time, it will be blurred.

Recently, even with iPhones and smart phones

If you're trying to take pictures in dark scenes.

It's like some kind of night mode, don't move it.

I think you can see something like this...

If you move it during that time, it gets blurred.

That's the relationship between shutter speed and camera shake.

I think that's what I'm thinking.

So in order to get a somewhat sharp image

You have to increase the shutter speed.

So how much should I increase the shutter speed?

That's...

It's about the lens that you're wearing.

You can use 1 for the focal length of the lens you are wearing.

When shooting at telephoto When shooting at telephoto

I think it's a good idea to use about one focal length times three times the focal length.

For example, the 24-70mm that I have here.

When you use this lens

When using this lens at 24mm, it is usually

The minimum shutter speed is about 1/24th of a second.

The more telephoto you go, the worse the camera shake gets.

The more you go to telephoto, the stronger the camera shake becomes.

The ratio of increasing shutter speed as you go to telephoto is called

I think it would be better to increase the shutter speed.

So for a 24mm wide angle, 1/24 is fine, but

At 70mm, I'll raise it to around 1/100 or 1/125.

And then when you get to telephoto, when you get to 100mm or 200mm

So when you use it at a telephoto like 200mm, it's about 1/3x, so when you use it at a telephoto like 200mm, it's about 1/3x.

So when you use it with a telephoto lens, like a 200mm lens, it's about 1/200x3x, so you can use it at 1/600.

I try to shoot at the lowest possible shutter speed.

I think this is the first step to eliminate camera shake

And of course, depending on the camera, there's the issue of pixel count.

Some cameras have good image stabilization.

I don't know if it's necessary to increase the shutter speed that much, but...

The current shutter speed is an indicator that if you raise the shutter speed to this level, you will not have camera shake.

So, for example, if you're shooting a landscape, you're not going to have any camera shake.

If you want to take a picture of a still object, you can set the shutter speed like this.

If you want to take a still object, you can set the shutter speed like this.

The point is that if the object you are trying to capture is a bird, a car, or anything else that moves, you can use the following

There are certain scenes where you have to increase the shutter speed even more.

I want you to take a look at this picture, for example.

I think I made a mistake here.

This is not blurred at a glance, but...

If you look closely, you can see that the subject is a little blurred.

I thought the subject was already still, so I lowered the shutter speed quite a bit.

I didn't need to lower the shutter speed so much.

I should have doubled the shutter speed already.

This is a frustrating point where I wish I could have stopped and photographed the subject properly.

For example, this bird shot, for example.

If I had used a higher shutter speed, I would have stopped the camera firmly.

It's a waste of subject blur because the neck part is blurred like this.

So, how do you control the blurring of the subject?

It depends on the situation.

The only way is to match the speed of the moving subject in the scene.

So, if we're talking about it as a guide, it's usually street

If you're taking pictures of people on the street or something like that, if you're not running too fast

Basically, I think 1/125 or 1/200 max. is enough to take pictures.

Of course, it depends on the focal length.

I think that's enough shutter speed for normal shooting.

But if you're shooting birds or animals or something like that,

when you are using a telephoto lens and the subject is blurred more easily, it's a good idea to use a telephoto lens to avoid blurring.

When taking pictures of birds, I think 1/1000 is a good minimum shutter speed.

If you want, you can use 1/1000, and if you want to take pictures of birds that are faster, you can use another 1/4000.

If you don't increase the shutter speed to that level, it's very difficult to get the subject to stop.

I think it's better to increase the shutter speed for birds and so on.

So, now that you have an idea of what I mean by camera shake and subject blur, let's take a look at what I mean by "subject blur" and "camera shake".

And now you know how to suppress them.

Now that we've talked about the theory, I'd like to share some trivia with you about how we usually set it up.

Most cameras these days have a setting for shutter speed.

When you shoot in auto mode, you can set the shutter speed so that it doesn't drop any lower than it already is.

When I usually take a picture, I set the shutter speed to 1/125.

If you set the shutter speed at this level, you will rarely have blur when you take pictures in everyday life.

Of course, if you are shooting birds or telephoto, you have to set the shutter speed properly.

If you are using a lens with a wide focal length, for example, for snapshots, basically a shutter speed of 1/125 is sufficient.

So when I'm shooting during the day, I usually use A mode, which is a mode that changes only the f-number, but everything else is in auto mode.

If you set the shutter speed to 1/125 of the f-stop in the A mode, the shutter speed will be adjusted to 1/125 of the f-stop.

You can take a picture without any mistakes, so I would recommend such a setting.

Please use it as a reference.

Keisuke's video

I think the most important thing is the problem of blurring, and you can't fix blurring afterwards.

If you take a picture and try to edit it, it's very difficult to make a blurry picture back to the way it was before.

On the other hand, it is possible to make a picture that is not blurry look a little blurry, so you can do that, but you can't make a picture that is not blurry look blurry.

So I think it's very important to take a picture that is not blurred.

And the other thing that can't be fixed is the focus.

It's also difficult to adjust the focus from the out-of-focus state, but it is possible to make the out-of-focus state a little blurry, isn't it?

So I think it's best to take a picture with the camera in focus.

Most cameras these days have autofocus, so you don't have to worry so much about the focus.

One thing to keep in mind is the f-number of the lens.

The f-number is determined by the lens, but for example, this lens says f/2.8 here.

So, the f-stop of the lens is F2.8.

The lower the f-number of the lens, the more light is let in, so it's easier to take bright pictures and also to take blurry pictures.

If you can take a blurry picture, it means that there are not many surfaces in focus.

So a lens with a low f-number is very attractive.

The range of focus is narrower, so it's easier to get out of focus.

So, if you want to make sure that the camera is in focus, I recommend that you increase the f-stop a little bit.

For example, this lens at f/2.8 is about f/4.

If you increase the f/4 setting of any lens, you can avoid out-of-focus situations.

Autofocus is very good these days.

So of course it's important to express blur.

If you want more sharpness in a scene, you can increase the f-stop a little.

I'd like to talk about the autofocus system in most cameras.

It's usually an autofocus in every camera, single AF, AF-S, that kind of thing.

And then there's Continuous AF, AF-C.

I think that these two are almost all equipped.

I'm sure that Nikon or some other name is a little bit different, but...

I think it's about these two.

This autofocus is often activated by half-pressing the shutter release button.

If you half-press the shutter release, the autofocus will work until you press the shutter release down.

When it's in this state called AF-S, when the shutter is pressed down halfway, it's going to focus on the pin and then it's going to focus on the subject.

From that position, the shutter is not displaced until the shutter is pressed in.

For example, when you take a picture of a still object.

When there is an obstacle in front of you and you want to focus on the back of the obstacle, you use this AF-S.

So it's a single AF.

In contrast, continuous AF is an autofocus that always tracks the subject.

As long as the camera is half-pressed, it basically tracks the subject, no matter how much the subject is moving.

AF-S means that the focus is already fixed, the distance is already fixed, so it doesn't follow the subject.

Once it tracks, that's it.

In contrast, Continuous AF and AF-C track the subject all the time.

For example, I recommend that you use AF-C even in such situations as an athletic meet or the shooting you just did.

Basically, if you want to fix the focus and you don't want to move the focus too much, you should use AF-S.

If you want to take a picture of a moving subject and you want to follow the subject, you use Continuous AF or AF-C.

It's a little bit complicated.

In my case, I usually use continuous AF.

In addition to that, I don't use AF-S much anymore, and I often shoot with manual focus.

How I do it, for example, is that I just focus on the subject with this, and then I go back to manual focus, and then I go back to manual focus.

If you want to fix the focus here, you can do that by saying, "Here's what's in focus, even with AF-C.

If you want to fix the focus here at this point, you can do that. I have a switch on my lens that says, "Auto focus manual focus switch.

Sometimes I set it to manual focus, and I just hold it there and take the picture.

Everyone has their own way of doing this, so I hope you will find a way that works best for you.

Basically, this is how the AF system works.

There's one more point that I'd like you to be aware of, or I'd like you to be aware of...

I'd like you to keep in mind that when you release the shutter, you should check the image by zooming in on it.

I want you to take a picture, for example, a portrait of a woman, and not just take the actual picture and say, "That's nice, that's nice, that's nice.

You know, you actually take the picture, and then you check it, you know, make sure that the preview is zoomed in and the eyes are in focus, and so on.

Just one time you do that, you can really increase the success rate of the picture, so...

Well, don't do that, because I've seen it happen, you know, you end up with a lot of photos that are really out of focus.

When you take a picture, please make sure that you check it once and make sure that it's in focus by zooming in on it.

This is also very important.

Keisuke's video

So far we've talked about blur, focus, shutter speed and f-stop...

The other thing that's left in the three factors is ISO.

The higher the ISO, the brighter the picture.

The higher the ISO, the more noise will be added to the image.

If you raise the ISO, you can take a brighter picture in a dark scene, but at the expense of noise, which is a bit of a nuisance, isn't it?

So, the question is, what should I do?

Of course, it's better to lower the price.

It's better to use it lowered, but as I said before, you can't fix blurring or focus afterwards.

Noise, on the other hand, can often be handled afterwards.

Nowadays, there's a lightroom, which is a general photo development software, and it's a very good software.

And they have a new function called AI noise reduction, which removes the noise by AI.

So I think it's OK to take pictures without worrying about the ISO going up to some extent.

If the image is out of focus or blurry, you can't fix it later.

So I think it's okay to raise the ISO to a certain degree while at least ensuring that those points that can't be fixed are at least ensured.

As a rule of thumb, it depends on the camera as to how much you can raise the ISO without worrying about it.

I'd like you to try it.

For example, if you have a full-size camera like my camera Alpha 1 or a full-size camera with a large sensor like this, you can use it to take pictures.

I think it's okay to raise the ISO to some extent, so I raise it to 6400 or 12800 or something like that.

So, of course, ideally, I would prefer to lower it.

Ideally, it's better to lower the price, but if you want to lower the price and it's all dark, or something like that, then you should lower the price.

I think it's better to keep the exposure brightness at a certain level, and even if the ISO goes up to a certain level, let's deal with it later.

I think this is a point where you don't have to worry so much.

Another step up is the dual base ISO, which is what we're seeing in cameras these days.

So, you start at about ISO 100, and then you go up to 12800, and then there are cameras that reduce the noise at a certain point.

For example, if you start at 100 and go up to 800, you can take a better picture at 800 than at ISO 640.

In that case, 100 and 800 are called dual base ISO because they have two base ISOs.

I'm going to skip this one because it's a bit difficult to explain.

I hope to introduce it again sometime in the subchannel or something.

I'd be happy to look into it there if you're interested.

So we've talked about the basic elements, and I think I've almost finished introducing all of them.

I'm just going to talk about one last lens.

Basically, it is the lens that determines the quality of the picture or video

For example, if you put a 10,000 yen lens on a 1,000,000 yen camera, and you put a 1,000,000 yen lens on a 10,000,000 yen camera

I think there is a possibility that a 10,000-yen camera with a 1,000,000-yen lens will take a better picture.

This may be a bit of an extreme example, but the lens is more directly related to the quality of the image.

So what's better than an expensive lens is the image quality and performance.

And the other thing is that expensive lenses are compact, but you don't know if it's compact or not, or if it's big or compact or not.

There is a characteristic that the f-stop can be lowered considerably.

So, if you use this lens, you can go from 24mm to 70mm at F2.8.

And the image quality is so beautiful at 24mm and 70mm.

And lenses are basically a whole lens, aren't they?

The center of the lens is very beautiful, but the further you go toward the edge, the worse the modification becomes.

So the more expensive the lens is, the more beautiful the image is at the edges.

So how do you guarantee image quality with a certain amount of cheap lenses?

You have to stop down the f-stop, right?

I think I mentioned earlier that as you increase the f-number, the area in focus becomes larger and wider.

The higher the f-number of a lens, the greater the sense of modification.

Basically, it always goes up.

And of course, if you raise it too much, there's a mysterious phenomenon called "frequency phenomenon" that occurs again, and the quality of the image deteriorates a little bit...

Basically, the sweet spot for f-numbers is 5.6, 8, 11, and so on, and the sweet spot for f-numbers is 5.6, 8, 11, and so on.

So, you know, the image quality is going to go up and up and up until you get to 5.6 or 8 or whatever the lens is.

So when you're shooting landscapes, a lot of people increase the f-stop.

When I shoot landscapes, I usually increase the f-stop to 8, 11, 14, or so.

The reason why the image quality improves is because the f-number is also called aperture.

F value is the size of the aperture in the camera that is moving.

So when the f-number is low, the aperture is large, the aperture is wide.

And as you increase the f-number, the aperture gets narrower and narrower and narrower.

So you're talking about using only the best part of the lens, the middle part, the part with the best image quality out of the whole lens.

So basically, as you increase the f-number, the image quality increases relatively.

So, if you have a high quality lens, even though it's an F1.4 or F1.8 lens, it's still a beautiful lens.

If you want to guarantee image quality even with a cheap lens, you can raise the lens to F4 or F5.6 or something like that, and it will be beautifully modified.

If you want to get the best image quality, you need to stop down the lens at least one more stop.

For example, if you have a f/2.8 lens, you can stop it down to f/4.

If you want more image quality, you can stop down the lens to F5.6 or F8, and it will be beautifully remodeled.

Keisuke's video

Yes, so this time I have introduced the knowledge that can be used with any camera and in any situation

This time, we're going to talk about the basics.

But I think there will be some difficult things to talk about.

I don't think it's something that you can remember all at once.

For example, the first one about the blurring, for example, or the focus, for example.

I hope you can take advantage of one point in this video that you can apply to your own work.

If you feel like you're comfortable with this, if you feel like you've gotten into the habit of doing this, then you can use it to your advantage.

The next step, then, is that I don't care about the blurring anymore.

I'm not saying I don't care anymore, but I've learned to care about it.

I'm going to move on to the focus, and I'm going to try to get the focus a little sharper, and I'm going to try to get the focus a little sharper

I think it would be good to step up in that way

Like I said, we've got links in the summary section to all the F1 and ISO and all that kind of stuff.

I'm sure you'll get a lot of good pictures and good videos from us.

I would like to end this video now.

If you like this video, please subscribe to our channel with the high rating button.

If you like this video, please subscribe to our channel with the high rating button.

I hope you will join us if you are interested.

I've been playing a lot, though.

Okay, I'll see you in the next video.

bye

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