A Day With the Executive Chef at NYC’s Hottest Seafood Restaurant | On The Line | Bon Appétit

Summary

In this behind-the-scenes look at Hav and Mar, Executive Chef Fariyal Abdullahi shares her journey of blending Ethiopian flavors with seafood in a restaurant inspired by both Swedish and Ethiopian cultures. From prepping unique ingredients like ash oil and Shiro to running a zero-waste kitchen, Chef Fariyal exemplifies passion and precision. With an emphasis on teamwork, sustainability, and maintaining family traditions, the video highlights the dedication and artistry involved in creating unforgettable dishes, all while managing a dynamic kitchen environment. The story is a celebration of culture, craft, and culinary innovation.

Takeaways

• 😀 Chef Fariyal Abdullahi is the executive chef at Hav and Mar, a seafood-forward restaurant with Ethiopian influences in both the menu and interior design.
• 😀 Hav and Mar is owned by renowned chef Marcus Samuelsson and merges Swedish and Ethiopian elements in its food and ambiance.
• 😀 The restaurant focuses on minimizing food waste through creative uses of scraps, such as turning onion skins and scallion tops into ash oil, which is used in dishes like Black Ceviche.
• 😀 Chef Fariyal takes pride in cooking dishes inspired by her Ethiopian roots, particularly Shiro, an Ethiopian chickpea stew used as a sauce for noodles in their Umi's Udon dish.
• 😀 The kitchen team is highly collaborative, with each member contributing to the preparation of different dishes, and Chef Fariyal personally ensures the quality of each dish.
• 😀 The restaurant operates with a 'zero waste' philosophy, recycling ingredients and composting scraps, even growing mushrooms from the building's compost.
• 😀 Chef Fariyal follows strict portion control to manage food costs, carefully measuring ingredients to ensure consistency and cost-efficiency.
• 😀 The team works in a high-energy, fast-paced environment, with Chef Fariyal maintaining a focus on precision, teamwork, and maintaining skills at all times.
• 😀 A strong emphasis is placed on training the team to match Chef Fariyal’s taste preferences and expectations, with constant checks and quality control on ingredients and dishes.
• 😀 The restaurant’s operations also involve administrative work, including managing staff schedules and inventory, to ensure smooth service and profitability.

Q & A

What is the concept behind Hav and Mar?

Hav and Mar is a seafood-forward restaurant that blends Swedish and Ethiopian influences, reflecting both Chef Marcus Samuelsson's Swedish heritage and Ethiopian roots. The restaurant features a minimalistic interior inspired by Swedish design, while also incorporating elements of Ethiopian rural hut aesthetics.

How does Chef Fariyal Abdullahi approach the prep list for the day?

Chef Fariyal starts by reviewing the prep list left by the PM line cooks, which details the tasks for the day's service. She absorbs some of the tasks herself and delegates others to her sous chefs. This allows her to stay hands-on and keep her skills sharp.

What is the process for making ash oil at Hav and Mar?

Ash oil is made by using vegetable scraps such as onion skins, scallion tops, and red onion pearls. These are roasted at 550°F to create burnt ash, which is then blended with oil and a little salt. This oil is used to bring a smoky flavor to dishes like the Hamachi Black Ceviche.

What is Shiro, and how is it used in the restaurant's menu?

Shiro is an Ethiopian stew made from ground chickpea flour. At Hav and Mar, it’s used as a sauce for Umi's Udon dish. The dish incorporates Ethiopian flavors like berbere spice, and the Shiro is made with traditional Ethiopian sofrito—onions, garlic, tomatoes, and berbere spice.

How does Chef Fariyal approach flavor balancing, particularly with spice levels?

Chef Fariyal has a higher spice tolerance than many of her customers, so she always tastes dishes carefully to ensure the spice levels are balanced. For example, when preparing Berbere honey for fried chicken, she considers the heat level, adjusting it based on the average palate.

What role does sustainability play at Hav and Mar?

Sustainability is a key aspect of the restaurant's operations. For example, the kitchen uses a compost program to reduce waste. Ingredients like vegetable scraps are repurposed to create new dishes, such as the ash oil. Additionally, the restaurant donates its compost to a local mushroom farm.

How does Chef Fariyal maintain consistency in the restaurant's dishes?

Chef Fariyal ensures consistency by adhering to precise measurements for ingredients and closely monitoring the prep process. She also checks in with her team to ensure everyone is on the same page and that the dishes match her vision. Her hands-on approach and attention to detail help maintain consistency.

What is the significance of Berbere in the menu?

Berbere is a foundational spice in Ethiopian cuisine, and it features heavily in the menu at Hav and Mar. It’s used in about 50% of the dishes, contributing deep, smoky, and spicy flavors, particularly in traditional Ethiopian stews like Doro Wat and various sauces.

What is the purpose of a 'stage' in the kitchen, and how does it work at Hav and Mar?

A 'stage' is a working interview where potential employees demonstrate their skills in the kitchen. Chef Fariyal uses this process to assess candidates like Helena, who are tasked with specific duties. It’s a way for the team to evaluate whether someone fits into the restaurant's workflow and culture.

How does Chef Fariyal handle unexpected ingredient shortages during service?

When ingredients are missing or arrive late, such as the cilantro that didn’t make it with the delivery, Chef Fariyal takes immediate action. She communicates with the team, makes necessary adjustments, and often runs out to buy ingredients herself to ensure that the service continues smoothly without affecting the quality of the dishes.