LA MODA EN EUROPA Parte I: Siglos XVI Y XVII

Summary

In this video, art historian María Paz discusses the evolution of European fashion from the 16th to the 19th century, focusing on the influence of Spanish and French styles. She highlights key garments like the 'verdugado' and 'gorguera' in Spain, and the 'farthingale' and 'ruff' in France. Paz also touches on the political backdrop, including the rise and fall of empires and their impact on fashion trends, leading to the eventual dominance of French fashion under Louis XIV.

Takeaways

• 🎨 The seminar focuses on the relationship between European fashion and trends in other parts of the continent during the 16th to 19th centuries.
• 🏰 The 16th century in Europe is marked by the end of the Renaissance in Italy and the expansion of Renaissance styles elsewhere.
• 👗 The second half of the 16th century sees a radical change in fashion, with the textile industry becoming one of Europe's largest.
• 🌍 The political landscape of Europe in the 16th century is characterized by the rise of centralized monarchies and the Spanish Empire's dominance.
• 👑 The Spanish fashion of the 16th century is influenced by various European courts and is known for its austerity and elegance, with a preference for dark colors.
• 👠 Key pieces of Spanish fashion include the 'corpiño' (a rigid bodice) and the 'verdugado' (a conical farthingale), which became fashionable in other European courts.
• 👔 The fashion in France during the 16th century transitions from a palette of bright colors to darker shades, with the introduction of the 'verdugado' and 'gorguera' (ruff).
• 👖 English fashion in the 16th century is influenced by both Spanish and French styles, reflecting the political relationships and rivalries of the time.
• 🤵 The 17th century sees a shift in European fashion with the rise of the Dutch and French as major powers, influencing fashion trends across the continent.
• 👗 Baroque styles become prominent in the early 17th century, characterized by exaggerated movements and details, eventually giving way to French Classicism.
• 👘 The fashion of the 17th century is marked by a mix of political and religious conflicts, with France and the Netherlands emerging as dominant forces in fashion and trade.

Q & A

What is the main focus of the seminar led by María Paz?

The main focus of the seminar is to understand the relationship between European fashion and the developments in other parts of the continent during the 16th, 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries.

Why is the 16th century considered unique in terms of artistic trends and political situation in Europe?

The 16th century is unique because it marks the end of the Renaissance in Italy while other parts of Europe were still experiencing its full expansion. It also witnesses significant political changes, such as the rise and fall of the Habsburg Empire under Charles V.

How did the textile industry in Europe evolve during the 16th century?

The textile industry in Europe became the largest sector since the 15th century, with importers and producers not only trading in wool, linen, silk, and cotton but also importing necessary materials and machinery for the industry's development.

What was the impact of Charles V's rule on the fashion trends in Europe?

Charles V's vast empire, which included territories like Naples, Aragon, Castile, and the Americas, influenced the fashion trends in Europe, particularly promoting Spanish fashion which was characterized by austerity and elegance.

What are the two key pieces of clothing that define the Spanish fashion in the 16th century?

The two key pieces of clothing that define Spanish fashion in the 16th century are the 'cuerpo' or corset and the 'verdugado' or farthingale.

Why did the color black become popular in Spanish fashion?

The color black became popular in Spanish fashion due to the Spanish domains being favorable for the importation and creation of luxurious fabrics and accessories, yet the Spanish dress was more sober compared to other courts.

How did the French fashion influence the silhouette and style of women's clothing in the 16th century?

French fashion in the 16th century moved from a palette of bright colors to darker shades, with black and gold becoming prominent. The French version of the farthingale helped create a silhouette that was rigid at the top but more fluid at the bottom.

What was the significance of the 'gorguera' or ruff in the fashion of the time?

The 'gorguera' or ruff was a significant fashion accessory that indicated status and wealth. Its size and the ability to maintain its cleanliness were indirect ways of communicating one's social standing.

How did the political rivalry between England and Spain reflect in the fashion trends of the 16th century?

The political rivalry between England and Spain is reflected in the extreme luxury of fashion in England during the reign of Henry VIII, influenced by Spanish and French styles, and later by the austerity influenced by Protestantism and the creation of the Church of England.

What changes occurred in men's fashion in Spain during the 16th century?

Men's fashion in Spain became more austere, with the 'calzón abombado' or 'greegree' being popular before spreading to other parts of Europe. The 'braqueta' or 'puffed and slashed' decoration was also a significant element in men's clothing.

How did the fashion trends in the 17th century differ from those of the 16th century?

The 17th century saw a shift from the sobriety of the 16th century to a more extravagant style, especially in men's fashion, with the introduction of items like the 'jangada' and a more pronounced use of lace and embroidery.