Why Huitlacoche (Corn Smut) is So Expensive | So Expensive

Summary

The script delves into the cultivation and consumption of huitlacoche, a delicacy known as 'food of the gods' in Mexico. It details the harvesting process, emphasizing the importance of timing to maintain quality and the challenges faced by farmers, such as weather and chemical exposure. The narrator shares personal experiences, from the surprise of its taste and color to the labor-intensive inoculation process. The script also touches on the economic aspects, including market dynamics and the significant price variations. Additionally, it discusses the cultural significance and culinary uses of huitlacoche, highlighting its unique texture and flavor profile.

Takeaways

• 🍽️ Huitlacoche, also known as corn smut, is considered a delicacy with a sweet and soft texture, often used in traditional Mexican cuisine.
• 🌱 The first experience with huitlacoche is usually surprising due to its unique taste and black color when cooked, such as in a quesadilla with Oaxaca cheese.
• 🌾 Harvesting huitlacoche is a delicate process that requires picking it at the right time to maintain quality; overripe huitlacoche becomes watery and less valuable.
• 🌡️ The inoculation process for huitlacoche is sensitive to heat, requiring the use of portable coolers and ice to keep the inoculation liquid viable.
• 💉 Inoculation involves injecting a special liquid into corn plants, with a success rate of around 70% to 80%, and used needles must be disposed of properly.
• 🔬 The inoculation liquid is crucial for the growth of huitlacoche, and nearby fields must cease insecticide use to prevent killing the organism in the liquid.
• 🕒 Time is of the essence in the inoculation process, with injections ideally completed by midday to avoid heat-related issues.
• 📉 The market price of huitlacoche can fluctuate significantly, with lower production leading to higher prices and vice versa.
• 📈 Some producers have monopolized the huitlacoche market, leading to concerns about the future of small-scale production and its sustainability.
• 📊 The technology used for huitlacoche production has advanced, with over 90% infection rates achievable through artificial means, compared to minimal natural occurrence.

Q & A

What is huitlacoche and how is it described in the script?

Huitlacoche, also known as corn smut, is a delicacy that is described as sweet, soft, and neither a mushroom nor corn but a combination of both. It is a fungus that grows on corn and is considered a gourmet food in some cultures.

Where was the first time the speaker tried huitlacoche and how was it prepared?

The speaker first tried huitlacoche in Oaxaca as a girl, prepared in a traditional way in a quesadilla with Oaxaca cheese.

What is the significance of the color of huitlacoche when it is being harvested?

The color of huitlacoche is significant because when it is white, it is of high quality and can be kept for five to seven days. If it turns black, it indicates over-ripeness and a loss in quality and value.

What challenges do the farmers face with huitlacoche cultivation?

Farmers face challenges such as hail storms that can destroy the huitlacoche, failure of the inoculation liquid, and the need to harvest at the right time to maintain quality.

Why is it important for nearby field owners to be informed about the inoculation process?

It is important for nearby field owners to know about the inoculation because they need to stop using insecticides 15 days beforehand to prevent the chemicals from killing the organism in the inoculation liquid.

How is the inoculation liquid kept stable during the hot midday?

The inoculation liquid is kept in portable coolers with ice added to ensure it remains cold and does not die due to the heat of the field and body heat of the inoculators.

What is the success rate of inoculating corn with huitlacoche according to the script?

The success rate of inoculating corn with huitlacoche is between 70% to 80%, as not all corn comes out 100% successfully infected.

How does the price of huitlacoche vary based on its quality and market conditions?

The price of huitlacoche can vary significantly based on its quality and market conditions. Over-ripe huitlacoche with too much water can be sold for half the price or even less, while the price can drop to around 17 or 18 pesos per ton if the production is high.

What is the role of huitlacoche in the speaker's restaurant menu?

Huitlacoche plays a significant role in the speaker's restaurant menu, with seventy-five percent of the menu based on mushrooms, including the main dish of huitlacoche ear of corn and its use in drinks.

What is the historical context of huitlacoche's price mentioned in the script?

In the last century, specifically the '50s, the price of huitlacoche was very high due to the labor-intensive process of finding naturally infected corn plants and the high demand.

How does the technology used for huitlacoche production impact the infection level of corn plants?

The technology used for huitlacoche production can generate an infection level greater than 90%, meaning that out of every 100 plants, 90 will be successfully infected with huitlacoche.

Outlines

00:00

🍄 Introduction to Huitlacoche

The speaker shares their first experience with huitlacoche, a delicacy that is neither mushroom nor corn, in Oaxaca. They describe its sweet and soft texture and the surprise it brings to first-time eaters due to its unique black color when cooked. The challenges of harvesting huitlacoche, such as weather conditions and the right timing to maintain quality, are discussed. Harvesting must be done when the kernels are white to ensure the best quality, and any delay can result in a significant loss in value.

05:12

🌱 The Process of Inoculation

This paragraph details the process of inoculating cornfields with huitlacoche. The importance of notifying nearby landowners to avoid insecticides is emphasized, as chemicals can kill the fungus. The inoculation liquid, provided by a doctor, must be kept cold to remain effective, and the team uses portable coolers and ice to maintain the temperature. The process requires meticulous care, including the use of face masks, clean tools, and the frequent changing of needles to ensure a high success rate. The speaker also discusses the economic impact of the inoculation process on the local market.

10:22

🍽️ Culinary Uses and Market Dynamics

The paragraph highlights the culinary versatility of huitlacoche, with 75% of a restaurant's menu featuring this ingredient. It is used in both dishes and drinks. The economic aspect is explored, with a discussion on the price fluctuations of huitlacoche and the challenges faced by small-scale producers due to market monopolization by larger players. The historical context of huitlacoche's value is provided, contrasting with the current market situation where the price can drop significantly.

18:55

🌾 Production and Consumer Preferences

This section delves into the production techniques of huitlacoche, with a focus on the high infection rate achieved through modern technology. The speaker contrasts this with the minimal natural production, which is less than 3% of a cornfield. Consumer preferences for immature, light gray huitlacoche gall are noted, and the impact of color and maturity on marketability is discussed. The economic implications of varying production levels and the resulting price points are also examined, illustrating the financial challenges faced by producers.

Keywords

💡Huitlacoche

Huitlacoche, also known as corn smut, is a delicacy in Mexican cuisine that is actually a fungal infection of corn. It is described as sweet and soft with a subtle, aromatic flavor. In the script, the speaker recounts their first experience with huitlacoche in Oaxaca, where it was served in a quesadilla with cheese, highlighting its unique taste and texture. The video discusses the cultivation and harvesting of huitlacoche, emphasizing its economic and cultural significance.

💡Inoculation

Inoculation in this context refers to the process of introducing the huitlacoche fungus to corn plants to intentionally cause the infection that leads to the growth of huitlacoche. The script details the careful handling of the inoculation liquid, the use of portable coolers, and the importance of clean tools and changing needles to ensure a successful infection rate. This process is crucial for the controlled production of huitlacoche.

💡Ripening

Ripening in the context of huitlacoche refers to the stage of development of the fungus on the corn. The script mentions that huitlacoche must be harvested while it is still white and intact to ensure quality, as overripe huitlacoche becomes watery and less valuable. The timing of harvesting is critical to maintaining the product's appeal and marketability.

💡Quesadilla

A quesadilla is a traditional Mexican dish made of a flat or round tortilla filled with various ingredients and then cooked on a griddle until the tortilla is crisp and the filling is melted. In the script, the speaker describes their first encounter with huitlacoche being in a quesadilla with Oaxaca cheese, which illustrates how huitlacoche is integrated into traditional Mexican cuisine.

💡Market Demand

Market demand is a concept that refers to the quantity of a product that consumers are willing and able to purchase at various price levels. The script discusses how the market and customers want huitlacoche every day, driving the need for daily harvesting and production. The demand for huitlacoche influences the cultivation practices and the economic viability of its production.

💡Harvesting

Harvesting in the script refers to the process of collecting the huitlacoche-infected corn from the fields. It is a labor-intensive task that requires careful handling to maintain the quality of the huitlacoche. The script mentions harvesting around 3 tons a week, indicating the scale of production and the importance of efficient harvesting techniques.

💡Inoculation Liquid

The inoculation liquid is a critical component in the cultivation of huitlacoche. It contains the fungus that, when applied to corn plants, triggers the growth of huitlacoche. The script describes the need to keep this liquid cold to maintain its effectiveness, using portable coolers and ice, and the importance of using it before it loses its potency due to heat.

💡Pesticides

Pesticides are chemicals used to protect plants from harmful insects and fungi. The script mentions that nearby landowners need to be notified about the inoculation process to avoid spraying insecticides, as these chemicals can kill the huitlacoche fungus and thus disrupt the cultivation process. This highlights the sensitivity of the huitlacoche production to environmental factors.

💡Quality Control

Quality control in the context of the script refers to the measures taken to ensure that the huitlacoche produced meets certain standards of taste, texture, and appearance. This includes proper harvesting, avoiding over-ripening, and maintaining cleanliness during the inoculation process. The script discusses the success rate of inoculation and the criteria for determining the quality of the huitlacoche, such as the color and texture of the kernels.

💡Price Fluctuation

Price fluctuation refers to the changes in the market price of a product over time. In the script, the speaker mentions that the price of huitlacoche can vary significantly, influenced by factors such as production levels and market demand. The script provides examples of how the price can drop when there is an oversupply, affecting the profitability of huitlacoche cultivation.

💡Cultural Significance

Cultural significance refers to the importance that a particular item holds within a society's customs, beliefs, and practices. Huitlacoche is described as a food of the gods in Mexican culture, indicating its high regard and traditional use. The script discusses how huitlacoche is used in various dishes, including a main dish and even in drinks, showcasing its deep integration into the culinary heritage.

Highlights

Huitlacoche is described as sweet and soft, with a subtle and aromatic flavor.

People are often surprised by the black color when they first try huitlacoche in a quesadilla.

Huitlacoche is harvested daily, even on weekends, to meet market demand.

The ideal huitlacoche is white and can be kept for five to seven days without spoiling.

Harvesting huitlacoche requires careful handling to prevent damage and maintain its soft texture.

About 3 tons of huitlacoche are harvested weekly, with strict requirements for quality.

Landowners must be notified 15 days in advance before inoculation to avoid pesticide use.

Inoculation liquid is sensitive to heat and must be kept cold to remain effective.

Proper sanitation and needle changes are crucial for successful huitlacoche inoculation.

The success rate of inoculation is around 70% to 80%, with imperfect injections leading to loss.

Huitlacoche is used in various dishes, including a main course and drinks, in some restaurants.

The price of huitlacoche can vary greatly, with significant markups from producers to intermediaries.

Some producers plant half a hectare of huitlacoche weekly, while others can plant 2 hectares daily.

The original price of huitlacoche in the '50s was high due to limited natural occurrence and high demand.

The price of huitlacoche can drop significantly, impacting the viability of its cultivation.

Huitlacoche has a unique texture and is considered a delicacy when immature and light gray in color.

Inoculation technology achieves over 90% infection success rate in cornfields.

Natural production of huitlacoche is minimal, with only 3% of cornfields having natural infection.

The price of huitlacoche is influenced by production volume, with lower yields leading to higher prices.

Transcripts

Well a lot of people say it is the food of the gods,

but I don't know any gods.

The only thing I'd say is it is a bit sweet.

Sweet and soft.

I think everyone is left surprised the first time they try huitlacoche,

because you don't really understand what it is.

It's neither mushroom nor corn, so you're eating both things.

The first time I tried it was in Oaxaca

when I was a girl.

It was in a very traditional way, being made in a quesadilla with that famous Oaxaca cheese.

I was surprised by the color.

To bite into a quesadilla and have that black color come out.

But the flavor was subtle and kind of sweet and aromatic.

We only rest when something bad comes up.

Like if there is a hail storm that destroys the huitlacoche.

Or if the inoculation liquid fails.

But normally, we work everyday.

Even on Saturdays and Sundays.

Because the market and customers want

Huitlacoche everyday.

We need to start harvesting when the huitlacoche is just right and intact.

But when the huitlacoche goes beyond ripe, it has too much water, and that is a loss for us.

We can only sell it for half the price or even less.

We need to harvest it while it is white.

And that makes a really good quality huitlacoche.

When you have the kernels white like this one here,

you can keep it five to seven days just as it is,

because it is still white.

Huitlacoche texture is very soft and tender.

We try not to damage it and keep it from turning black. That is why our hands look dirty,

because the huitlacoche is already a bit black, and we are damaging it.

We harvest around 3 tons a week.

We need to let the other land owners know that

we are going to inoculate.

The owners of nearby fields need to know 15 days beforehand

that they need to stop spraying with insecticides

so that it does not impact the inoculation.

That is because the chemicals

can kill the organism in the inoculation.

Even just a little bit of pesticide

can kill the fungus in the liquid.

The doctor sends us the liquid around 5 or 6 in the morning

so that by noon or 1 p.m. we wrap up all the injections because of the heat.

My father, my brother, and brother-in-law, those of us who inoculate,

we all must use the liquid in portable coolers.

It is so that by midday while we are inoculating,

we put ice in there because the syringe, tube, and everything gets hot,

by the heat of the field and our own body heat.

So we add ice to make sure that it is always cold and so that the liquid does not die.

We don't want the heat to beat us.

If it is too hot, the liquid can begin to decompose and go bad.

We also protect the plant using face masks and make sure all of our tools are very clean.

And we always need to change the needles. Every time we inoculate, we need to change the needles.

It's like when you use it on a person. You need to throw it away when you're done.

We often carry a container or bag to collect and throw out the needles.

Even if you are an expert, not every plant is injected properly.

We have a 70% to 80% success rate, because not all the corn comes out 100%.

Here we would consider this a loss.

The injection was a bit too high, and it didn't go in deep enough.

But this one is 100% quality. This other one, no. It is trash, or only for the cows.

That is why there is huitlacoche growing all over the leaves.

Because the inoculation liquid only stays on the outside.

About 2 tons every week.

We have a customer who buys from us.

A hundred and some kilos of

huitlacoche everyday in the morning.

We always try to get it from local producers.

Seventy-five percent of our menu is based on mushrooms.

Our main dish is the huitlacoche ear of corn.

We use it also in drinks.

From that base price that the producer sells to the first intermediary,

the price difference can be 60% to 70%.

We just grow a little bit of huitlacoche.

We plant half a hectare a week.

But they grow 2 hectares a day.

They are the ones who come

and monopolize the huitlacoche market.

Originally the price of huitlacoche, let's say in the last century, in the '50s, was very high.

Because farmworkers would search in their fields for corn plants

that were naturally infected with huitlacoche.

And the demand was very great, and the costs were very high.

Sometimes the huitlacoche price drops to 12 or 10 pesos.

So I don't see a future in this.

But I can't do anything else right now.

It is not bitter or too sweet.

Some friends and I make it in a kind of huitlacoche lasagna.

It is exquisite.

It's a fungus, and corn that ceased to be a corn,

and it has a texture that is different to what we typically know.

Generally, the Mexican population likes to consume the light gray-colored, immature huitlacoche gall.

When they are dark gray or black, that is when the huitlacoche gall is much more mature

and will get to market already open.

And when it is open,

it no longer has the same appearance, and sometimes people no longer want to buy it.

It generates an infection level greater than 90%,

so of every 100 plants, 90 will come out

successfully infected with huitlacoche.

Sometimes it is higher, normally, but it is above 90%,

and it is the technology that is being used the most.

There is still some natural production that is very minimal.

That does not exceed 3% of a cornfield.

That is to say, through the natural process,

you would only have three out of every 100 plants with huitlacoche.

If the field is very productive

and we can harvest 4 tons a hectare,

the price drops to around 17 or 18 pesos.

But if our production is lower

and we harvest, let's say, around

2.5 tons, well, the price is around 20 pesos.

So if we sell at 17 pesos, we lose 3 pesos.

Three pesos completely lost.

Here's an example caption.