How to Layer Active Ingredients: Niacinamide, Vitamin C, AHA/BHA, Retinols & More!

Beauty Within
11 Mar 202022:24

Summary

TLDRВ этом видео-рассказе ведущая Фелиция раскрывает секреты правильного слияния активных ингредиентов в скраб-рутине. Она подробно обсуждает влияние витаминов A, B и C, а также AHA/BHA на кожу, и как их сочетания могут быть полезными. Фелиция также делится своими рекомендациями по укладке продуктов на кожу с учетом их текстуры и pH-уровня, предоставляя пошаговый план для дневного и ночной ухода. Видео завершается ответами на часто задаваемые вопросы, в том числе о том, как корректировать дозу активных ингредиентов при кожных проблемах и как избежать образования комков при нанесении кремов.

Takeaways

  • 🧴 В видео рассказывают о правильном порядке использования активных ингредиентов в уходе за кожей.
  • 🛒 Активные ингредиенты, такие как витамины A, B3 (Ниацинамид), C (L-Аскорбиновая кислота), AHAs/BHAs, помогают решать различные проблемы кожи.
  • 🧪 Витамин A (Ретиноиды или Ретинолы) ускоряет обновление клеток, сглаживая морщины и уничтожая бактерии, вызывающие акне.
  • 💧 Витамин B3 (Ниацинамид) - универсальный компонент для всех типов кожи, который улучшает яркость, размер поры и текстуру кожи.
  • 🍋 Витамин C (L-Аскорбиновая кислота) полезен для укрепления эластины и коллагена, а также для устранения пигментных пятен и угнетания.
  • 🍇 AHAs (Альфа-гидроксикислоты) являются химическими обмывательными средствами, которые удаляют мертвую кожу и помогают с黑白头.
  • 🌱 BHA (Бета-гидроксикислоты), такие как Салициловая кислота, помогает убирать мертвую кожу и очищать поры, особенно полезен для акнеподобной кожи.
  • 💧 Комбинация гиалуроновой кислоты и витамина C усиливает эффекты по увлажнению и сиянию кожи.
  • 🌞 Витамин C, Е и Феруловая кислота - идеальная тройка для защиты кожи от УФ-излучения и стимулирования коллагена.
  • 🌙 Ретинолы рекомендуется использовать ночью для обновления клеток и улучшения состояния кожи утром.

Q & A

  • Какие активные ингредиенты обсуждаются в видео?

    -В видео обсуждаются активные ингредиенты, такие как витамины A, B, C (ретинолы, ниацинамид и л-аскорбиновая кислота), а также АХА/БХА.

  • Что такое ретинолы и для чего они используются?

    -Ретинолы - это антиоксиданты, производные витамина A, которые ускоряют обновление клеток кожи, сглаживают мелкие морщины и угольцы, уравновешивают текстуру кожи и уничтожают бактерии, вызывающие акне.

  • Какие сайд-эффекты могут возникнуть от использования ретиноидов?

    -Ретиноиды могут высушивать кожу, поэтому их рекомендуется использовать с дополнительной увлажнением и гидратацией.

  • Чем известна ниацинамид и как она помогает коже?

    -Ниацинамид, или витамин B3, считается MVP для большинства типов кожи. Он помогает уменьшить плоть, улучшает текстуру кожи, уравновешивает себумную продукцию и хорошо совмещается с чувствительной кожей.

  • Какие формы витамина C обсуждаются в видео?

    -В видео рассматривается л-аскорбиновая кислота как чистая форма витамина C, а также его производные, такие как тетрагексидецил аскорат, аскорбиновая глюкозид и магния аскорбиновая кислота.

  • Что такое АХА и как они воздействуют на кожу?

    -АХА (альфа-гидроксикислоты) - это вещества, полученные из фруктов или молока, которые действуют как химические обменивающие вещества для кожи, удаляя избытку мертвых клеток и устраняя загрязнение.

  • Какие активные ингредиенты рекомендуется использовать днем и ночью?

    -Днём рекомендуется использовать витамин C с витаминами E и феруловой кислотой для защиты от УФ-излучения, а также АХА, БХА и азелейскую кислоту. Ночью можно добавить ретинолы для обновления клеток и улучшения состояния кожи.

  • Какой совет даётся для тех, кто испытывает проблемы с кожными продуктами, которые некорректно наносят друг на друга?

    -Если продукты не наносятся корректно и образуются комки, рекомендуется оставлять больше времени между нанесением продуктов, чтобы каждый продукт мог впитаться в кожу.

  • Какое количество активных ингредиентов рекомендуется использовать в скринке?

    -Не следует использовать слишком много активных ингредиентов одновременно. Начните с одного и постепенно добавляйте другие, следуя за вашими потребностями и типом кожи.

  • Какой совет даётся для людей с чувствительной кожей?

    -Для чувствительной кожи рекомендуется использовать ниацинамид и другие менее кислотные ингредиенты, которые не вызывают раздражения.

Outlines

00:00

🌟 Основы ухода за кожей: Активные ингредиенты

В этом видео представительница Beauty Within, Фелиция, обсуждает использование активных ингредиентов в уходе за кожей. Она раскрывает сложности выбора и применения различных продуктов и ингредиентов, таких как витамины A, B и C (ретинолы, ниацинамид и л-аскорбиновая кислота), а также AHA/BHA. Фелиция также затрагивает вопросы сочетания продуктов и рекомендации по их использованию в зависимости от типа кожи.

05:01

🍋 Ингредиенты для ухода: AHA и BHA

Второе видео рассматривает AHA (альфа-гудроксикисуюры) и BHA (бета-гудроксикисуюры) как важные ингредиенты для экзофолирования. AHA помогает удалить мертвую кожу и улучшает цвет и текстуру кожи, в то время как BHA, будучи жироустойчивым, способствует глубокому очистке поры и контролированию сеbum. Видео также предлагает различные сочетания ингредиентов, которые хорошо работают вместе, такие как гиалуроновая кислота и витамин C, азелаевая кислота и витамин C, ретинолы и ниацинамид.

10:05

🛡️ Защита кожи: Сочетания активных ингредиентов

Третья часть видео сосредотачивается на комбинации витамина C, E и феруловая кислота, которая обеспечивает устойчивость витамина C и повышает его эффективность. Также рассматриваются способы нанесения уходовых продуктов в зависимости от их текстуры и pH-уровня, что помогает оптимизировать их впитывание и эффективность. Видео дает советы по употреблению продуктов с различными текстурами и pH-уровнями для максимального ухода за кожей.

15:06

🌞 Дневной и ночной уход: Применение активных ингредиентов

В четвертой части видео рассматривается, как включить активные ингредиенты в дневной и ночной уход. Рекомендуется использовать витамин C, AHA, BHA и азелаевую кислоту в дневние уходовые процедуры для защиты кожи от внешних воздействий. Для ночных процедур рекомендуется использовать ретинолы, которые способствуют регенерации клеток и улучшению состояния кожи. Видео также дает советы по управлению проблемами, такими как раздражение и образование комков при нанесении продуктов.

20:06

💧 Регулирование доз активных ингредиентов и устранение проблем

В заключительной части видео обсуждаются стратегии регулирования доз активных ингредиентов для обеспечения здоровья кожи, а также способы решения проблем, связанных с их использованием, таких как образование комков (pilling). Фелиция дает советы по тому, как использовать продукты с различными активными ингредиентами без причины раздражения или других нежелательных эффектов, и как корректно вписать их в дневной и ночной уход.

Mindmap

Keywords

💡активные ингредиенты

Активные ингредиенты - это компоненты в уходовых средствах, которые имеют конкретное воздействие на кожу, такие как улучшение эластичности, снятие пигментных пятен или борьба с акне. В видео это ключевой концепт, так как ведущая обсуждает различные активные ингредиенты и их взаимодействие для оптимизации ухода за кожей.

💡ретинолы

Ретинолы, также известные как витамин A, являются антиоксидантами, которые ускоряют обновление клеток кожи, помогая сгладить мелкие морщины и устранить бактерии, вызывающие акну. В видео упоминается, что ретинолы могут сушить кожу, поэтому их следует использовать с продуктами с высокой влажностью.

💡ниацинамид

Ниацинамид, или витамин B3, считается универсальным компонентом для большинства типов кожи. Он помогает устранять мелкие поры, улучшает текстуру кожи и сбалансированность сеbum. В видео он называется MVP для кожи и упоминается как идеальное сопровождение для ретинолов.

💡витамин C

Виамин C, в частности форма l-аскорбиновая кислота, известен своими светлосберегающими свойствами и способностью стимулировать образование коллагена и эластина. В видео рассматриваются различные производные витамина C и их использование в уходе за кожей.

💡AHA/BHA

AHA (альфа-гидроксикислоты) и BHA (бета-гидроксикислоты) являются химическими эксклюзивами и помогают удалять мертвую кожу, сглаживая поры и улучшая цвет кожи. В видео обсуждаются различные AHA и BHA, их эффективность и способы их использования в уходе.

💡феруловая кислота

Феруловая кислота используется в сочетании с витамином C и витамином E для стабилизации витамина C и повышения его эффективности. В видео упоминается, что эта комбинация помогает сформировать 'железный щит' для защиты кожи от воздействия окружающей среды.

💡текстура продукта

При наложении уходовых средств важно учитывать текстуру или консистенцию продукта, начиная с более водяных и заканчивая более жирными. В видео это правило используется для оптимизации порядка наложения продуктов на кожу.

💡pH

pH - это показатель кислотности или щелочности вещества, который влияет на способность продукта впитаться в кожу. В видео рассматривается важность pH при выборе и использовании активных ингредиентов, чтобы минимизировать возможные негативные эффекты.

💡ретинолы и время суток

Ретинолы, по мнению косметологической дерматологии, лучше всего использовать ночью из-за их фоточувствительности. В видео упоминается, что ретинолы помогают в регенерации клеток во время сна, и их эффективность повышается, если использовать перед сном.

💡соединение активных ингредиентов

В видео рассматривается сочетаемость различных активных ингредиентов и их эффективность в уходе за кожей. Например, сочетание гиалуроновой кислоты и витамина C или азелейевой кислоты и витамина C упоминается как полезные пары для улучшения состояния кожи.

Highlights

讨论了护肤品成分叠加的重要性和复杂性。

介绍了维生素A(视黄醇)对皮肤细胞更新和抗痘效果的作用。

解释了维生素B3(烟酰胺)对各种肤质的益处,包括减少皮肤暗沉和平衡油脂。

讨论了维生素C(L-抗坏血酸)的美白效果和促进胶原蛋白生成的能力。

提到了AHAs(α-羟基酸)作为化学去角质剂的作用。

解释了BHA(β-羟基酸)如何作为油溶性物质深入毛孔,帮助控制油脂和痤疮。

提出了透明质酸和维生素C的组合,以增强皮肤的保湿和美白效果。

讨论了azelaic acid和维生素C组合对减少炎症和治疗痤疮痕迹的效果。

介绍了烟酰胺和视黄醇的组合,适合敏感肌肤使用。

提到了维生素C和烟酰胺的组合,尽管过去有争议,但现在被认为是安全的。

讨论了维生素C、E和阿魏酸的组合,以增强维生素C的稳定性和效果。

提供了根据产品质地或pH值来叠加护肤品的方法。

解释了日间护肤中使用维生素C和其他活性成分的重要性。

讨论了夜间护肤中使用视黄醇的好处,以及如何将其有效地纳入护肤程序。

提供了在皮肤受到刺激时调整活性成分剂量的建议。

建议根据皮肤问题选择活性成分,避免过度叠加。

讨论了护肤品搓泥现象的原因和解决方案。

Transcripts

play00:00

Hey everyone! Welcome back to Beauty Within!

play00:02

It's your host, Felicia :)

play00:03

And today, we're here to talk about something that's been on a lot of your minds

play00:08

when it comes to skincare routines.

play00:09

And that's layering active ingredients ~

play00:13

Yes, what a wonderful world we live

play00:15

where we have a billion options to slather over our face.

play00:19

It's understandable because we're often faced with so many different products

play00:23

[and] so many different ingredients.

play00:25

And we buy them from different brands.

play00:27

And, you know, they come in different consistencies

play00:29

[and] they have different actives.

play00:30

But sometimes it's a different percentage.

play00:32

And we're just overwhelmed!

play00:34

And it's even worse when you research the words that pop up and they say,

play00:39

"Apply this cream before your sunscreen!"

play00:40

Or, "Apply this oil before your moisturizer or after!"

play00:44

So we even get a lot of comments from you guys

play00:46

asking us whether you know pairing certain products is okay for your skin type.

play00:51

So in this [video], we're gonna go through vitamin A B C,

play00:54

which is retinol, niacinamide, and l-ascorbic acid.

play00:57

As well as things like AHAs/BHAs.

play00:59

And how to incorporate them all into this ecosystem of ingredients!

play01:05

Essentially, it's like a guidebook

play01:07

so that you guys know which skincare combinations

play01:10

[and] which key active ingredients will work together well.

play01:13

But just keep in mind that it's not going to be the same for everyone.

play01:24

So if you guys haven't noticed,

play01:25

there are a lot of different active ingredients out there!

play01:28

So we'll quickly go over the most common ingredients that you'll find.

play01:32

So the first one is vitamin A.

play01:34

And you'll probably know of this more as retinoids or retinols.

play01:38

So retinoids or retinols are vitamin A derived antioxidants.

play01:42

And they are amazing at increasing cell turnover in our skin!

play01:47

So this means it helps to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles.

play01:51

It evens out the texture.

play01:52

And it even kills acne-causing bacteria,

play01:55

which is why it's sometimes really effective for acne-prone skin.

play01:58

And fun fact is when vitamin A first came out,

play02:01

it wasn't an anti-aging [ingredient].

play02:03

Or it wasn't designed for wrinkles.

play02:04

It was actually helping with acne

play02:06

because it helps to constrict the pores [and] it helps with cell turnover.

play02:10

And therefore, the pores aren't clogged.

play02:12

So other names of retinoids you might be familiar with are

play02:15

tretinoin, retin-a, adapalene, differen, and also retinaldehyde.

play02:19

And if you've tried any sort of retinol or retinoid,

play02:23

you'll know that these side effects of vitamin A

play02:25

is that it can be very drying on the skin.

play02:28

So when you use this, you always want to pair it with

play02:31

much more hydration and moisturization.

play02:33

So now moving on to vitamin B3!

play02:35

Otherwise known as my favorite! Niacinamide.

play02:38

So niacinamide is known as the MVP for most skin types.

play02:43

Niacinamide itself is a nutrient that we find in our body

play02:48

and that, you know, we naturally produce

play02:50

that helps change carbohydrates into energy.

play02:52

So niacinamide has a long well-researched and documented history

play02:57

into helping all sorts and every kind of facet of skin condition

play03:02

like dullness [and] pore size.

play03:03

It helps balance sebum production. It helps with texture.

play03:07

And it works great with sensitive skin, as well.

play03:10

Because compared to things like vitamin C,

play03:12

which we're gonna get into in just a second,

play03:14

it's not as acidic.

play03:16

It sits around the 4.5 section of the pH scale,

play03:20

which means your skin will not be irritated by it.

play03:22

And when we talk about how to mix certain ingredients,

play03:25

you'll find that niacinamide actually pairs well with many different ingredients

play03:30

because of this reason, as well.

play03:31

Alright, now moving on to vitamin C.

play03:33

And there's a lot of different vitamin C derivatives,

play03:37

but the pure form is known as l-ascorbic acid.

play03:40

So vitamin C is a very very popular ingredient. Very popular!

play03:44

We know a lot of you guys search for it

play03:46

[and] that you want to know how to pair it.

play03:47

There's a lot of kind of myths and opinions about how to actually use vitamin C

play03:53

so that it is super effective on the skin.

play03:55

So vitamin C is known for its overall brightening effects,

play03:59

as well as promoting elastin and collagen production

play04:03

in the dermis layer of the skin.

play04:05

But the downside of l-ascorbic acid in its pure form as a liquid,

play04:09

[is that] it can be very fickle and unstable as an ingredient.

play04:13

It's probably the most unstable one out there.

play04:15

And because of its unstable nature,

play04:17

that's why I think there is a lot of confusion

play04:20

when it comes to how to properly use vitamin C.

play04:23

And it will change from product to product

play04:25

because we'll find that it's in a lot of serums.

play04:28

It's also in booster forms.

play04:29

It's also in certain moisturizers.

play04:32

It's also one of those ingredients that has,

play04:34

as we said, a lot of different derivatives.

play04:36

So if you see on the back of the packaging in the ingredients list

play04:40

that there's tetrahexydecyl ascorbate, ascorbyl glucoside,

play04:43

or even magnesium ascorbyl phosphate to just name a few,

play04:47

those are all derivatives of vitamin C.

play04:50

And if you have sensitive skin, these derivatives will work better with you

play04:54

because it's not as potent.

play04:56

And so they're kind of formulated in a way that won't cause as much irritation.

play05:01

So now moving on to AHAs, also known as alpha hydroxy acid!

play05:05

So AHAs are actually fruit derived or milk derived water-soluble substances

play05:11

that act as chemical exfoliants for our skin.

play05:14

And how it works is it helps to slough away the excess dead skin

play05:18

that's lying on the very surface layer of our skin.

play05:22

So, you know how we go through skin regeneration?

play05:24

Sometimes your skin just gets trapped in the glue,

play05:27

and it can't actually like fly away as it should.

play05:31

So AHAs help unclog the pores and even out the skin tone

play05:36

by kind of reducing all that deadness around.

play05:40

Which means it also helps with blackheads and whiteheads, as well.

play05:42

So the most common AHAs you'll find on the market are

play05:45

glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic, and citric acid.

play05:50

And, once again, all of these differ in molecular weights and sizes.

play05:54

So for example, the glycolic acid is the most potent

play05:57

because it is the smallest form,

play05:59

which means it can sink down deeper into the layers of the skin.

play06:02

Compared to something like lactic acid,

play06:04

which is a little bit better for sensitive skin because it's not as potent.

play06:08

So you'll find these scattered in different products.

play06:11

Alright, now moving on to BHA.

play06:13

Which is known as beta hydroxy acid.

play06:16

And if you have acne-prone skin,

play06:17

you will know this very well, inside and out! Hahaha.

play06:21

So in a similar vein, BHA is also a chemical exfoliant

play06:25

that works to remove the dead cells and flakes on the skin's surface.

play06:30

But unlike AHAs, BHA is an oil-soluble substance,

play06:34

which allows them to penetrate deeper into our pores,

play06:37

because our pores have sebum,

play06:39

to then dissolve any excess or any bacteria

play06:43

mixed in with the sebum that's actually causing acne.

play06:46

So for acne-prone skin, BHA is a great option to help control sebum production.

play06:51

It helps to smooth and minimize the look of enlarged pores

play06:55

and just handle and control the breakouts that way.

play06:58

So now that we know what the key active ingredients are,

play07:01

let's go on to which pairings or which ingredients go well together.

play07:06

So the first pairing or the first duo.

play07:09

The lovely duo: Hyaluronic acid and vitamin C!

play07:13

So for those who have been watching our channel,

play07:16

we talk endlessly about how dehydrated skin

play07:18

can lead to skin looking and feeling just really dull.

play07:22

Without love, without a tender loving stroke.

play07:27

There there!

play07:28

So when you mix hyaluronic acid and vitamin C,

play07:31

you're actually getting an extra synergistic boost

play07:34

in the skin for brightening and hydrating.

play07:37

And this duo not only helps with dehydrated skin,

play07:40

but the vitamin C helps to even out wrinkles and discoloration

play07:43

and just that overall brightening effect.

play07:45

Moving on to the next pair, which is azelaic acid and vitamin C.

play07:49

You know how much I love azelaic acid!

play07:52

We mentioned it previously in my skincare routine,

play07:54

so make sure you check that out!

play07:56

Not only is it a skin-friendly ingredient,

play07:58

but it's basically a miracle in a tube!

play08:00

Because it helps to calm down inflammation,

play08:03

it kills off acne-causing bacteria,

play08:05

and it even treats post-acne marks and hyperpigmentation in a very gentle way.

play08:10

So when it's paired with vitamin C, these effects multiply and amplify.

play08:14

So if you are facing any discoloration

play08:17

[and] you want to brighten out and even out your skin tone,

play08:20

this is a duo that I would highly recommend.

play08:23

Moving on to the next best friends is retinol and niacinamide!

play08:27

So combining niacinamide with retinol

play08:30

is actually a really great combo for sensitive skin types,

play08:34

especially if you are kind of looking into

play08:37

starting a retinol-infused skincare routine.

play08:41

Because niacinamide helps the skin tolerate the potent effects of retinol.

play08:45

And not only does niacinamide help to dilute the retinol

play08:49

and calm the skin down because of its anti-inflammatory properties,

play08:53

but it also helps the skin to stimulate ceramide production.

play08:57

And ceramides are the lipids and the glues

play09:00

that hold our skin together so that it is strong and protected.

play09:04

So I love my niacinamide, I love my retinols.

play09:08

But just a little side note,

play09:09

you don't have to start retinols before you're 25.

play09:11

Just don't even think about it. Unnecessary!

play09:14

Alright, so the next duo is niacinamide and vitamin C.

play09:18

So this one has been a controversial duo,

play09:20

and you'll see a lot of different articles saying that you should avoid this at all costs.

play09:25

But the thing is we've previously talked about this as more of a myth

play09:29

because once upon a time it was true.

play09:31

And in those studies, the vitamin C that was studied was quite unstable.

play09:35

And it was exposed to temperatures and heat

play09:38

that were not typically exposed to as, you know,

play09:42

a human being using a skincare routine in the morning and night.

play09:45

But now with more innovative formulations of products

play09:48

that include vitamin C and niacinamide,

play09:50

it's actually quite safe on the skin.

play09:52

So with that aside, combining vitamin C and niacinamide is found to help

play09:56

to smooth out wrinkles and even out dull and pigmented skin,

play10:00

especially when it concerns things like post-acne marks and hyperpigmentation.

play10:05

So the last duo that we'll mention before jumping into a foolproof skincare routine

play10:09

and how to actually, you know, step-by-step put it in together

play10:13

is vitamin C, E, and ferulic acid.

play10:17

This is the trifecta of ingredients!

play10:20

As we know by now, vitamin C is super unstable.

play10:22

But when you pair it with vitamin E and ferulic acid,

play10:25

it actually helps to stabilize and actually boost the efficacy of vitamin C.

play10:31

And it actually helps to calm down the irritation that could be happening.

play10:35

As well as nourish the skin in the meantime.

play10:38

Which is why you'll find a lot of products with this combination trio.

play10:42

And when you use it throughout the day,

play10:44

it's really helping create that ironclad shield

play10:47

that's protecting your skin from the environment, from UV rays,

play10:51

and also stimulating collagen.

play10:53

So it's like this inside-out effect.

play10:54

So it's really really great!

play10:58

So now we know what the key ingredients are, what they do,

play11:01

[and] which combinations will generally work well together,

play11:05

let's now talk about how to actually layer them in the order

play11:09

so that it is the most effective in our skin.

play11:11

So there are actually two methods.

play11:13

The first method is through looking at the texture or the consistency of the product.

play11:18

The second way is actually through the pH,

play11:20

which is a little bit more on the advanced side.

play11:25

So let's first start with the texture!

play11:28

Okay, so rule of thumb is that you'll want to

play11:30

apply your skincare products from the thinnest or the most watery in consistency

play11:34

to the thickest or the creamiest or oiliest of textures.

play11:39

So thin consistency products are water-based,

play11:42

and it works really quickly in sinking into our skin.

play11:46

So these include things like toners and serums.

play11:49

Then, thick textured products will contain more oils that serve as "emollients".

play11:54

So emollients just means that it helps to trap the water or the hydration in our skin.

play11:59

And it also softens the skin.

play12:01

But this is very different to actually hydrating.

play12:03

So what moisturizers and these thicker ingredients do is

play12:07

it acts as a blanket to make sure everything that you applied beforehand,

play12:10

which is the more watery products,

play12:12

to keep that all trapped into the deeper layers of the skin

play12:16

so that the cells are hydrated and happy.

play12:18

Another way of looking at this is when you combine oil and water.

play12:21

When you place both into a glass,

play12:23

you will notice that the oil and water separate into two layers, right?

play12:26

The oil is floating on the top, while the water is settling on the bottom.

play12:30

So this is a very simple visual representation of what can actually happen on our skin.

play12:34

This is why we want to apply watery consistencies first

play12:37

and then top it off with oils

play12:39

because you want to seal all of that in your skin.

play12:42

Now moving on to layering through pH levels.

play12:45

This is one approach that's especially important

play12:47

if you're choosing to incorporate different active ingredients.

play12:50

Just a little recap on what the pH level is.

play12:53

It ranges from 0 to 14 from acidic to alkaline.

play12:56

And if your product is too acidic on the lower side,

play12:59

you might experience things like irritated, red, or inflamed skin.

play13:03

Well, on the other opposite end.

play13:05

If something is very alkaline, it can make your skin really dry, flaky, and dehydrated.

play13:10

And our skin is constantly changing up and down on this pH scale

play13:15

at every step in our routine.

play13:17

But the ideal level and where our skin naturally lies is between 4.5 to 5.5.

play13:22

So the interesting thing is that the lower the pH is,

play13:25

the more likely the product can actually absorb into the skin.

play13:28

So for AHAs and BHAs and vitamin C,

play13:31

these all lie lower in the pH level.

play13:34

So naturally you're going to want to incorporate these acids first

play13:38

or earlier on in your skincare routine.

play13:40

Then things like retinols, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid,

play13:44

copper peptides, and even, you know,

play13:46

skin-friendly plant oils including jojoba [and] rosehip,

play13:50

this is higher up on the pH scale

play13:52

and ranging between 4.5 - 7.

play13:55

And this indicates that they are more skin barrier-friendly ingredients

play13:59

that can help you rebalance the skin

play14:01

and leave your skin at its most optimal state.

play14:03

So after you apply your low pH acids,

play14:06

you can start applying the other actives on top of that.

play14:09

And then by the end of it, you'll be one happy bee!

play14:12

Alright, now with all that said,

play14:14

let's break this down into which key active ingredients

play14:18

will work better in the morning and which one at night.

play14:21

The essentials of a daytime routine is that you want to cleanse,

play14:24

you want a moisturizer, and you need a sunscreen.

play14:27

These are the three things that will not budge in a day routine!

play14:31

So when you want to start including

play14:32

any of the active ingredients that we've talked about,

play14:34

you want to do this after you cleanse.

play14:36

So cleansing, active ingredients, moisturizer, then SPF.

play14:41

"So which active ingredients will work best in the morning?"

play14:44

So you want to think of your day routine and layering the different product

play14:47

to fight against external environmental damages.

play14:51

So vitamin C, as we said before.

play14:53

When it's paired with things like vitamin E and also ferulic acid,

play14:56

it really helps to strengthen your skin's defenses against the harmful UVA/UVB rays

play15:02

that's really killing off your DNA and making you prematurely age.

play15:05

And it's also helping to fight off the free radicals that you don't see

play15:09

that are also damaging your skin on a microscopic level.

play15:13

So I personally love using a vitamin C serum.

play15:17

The one you'll see that I use is the Obagi one

play15:19

that has actually all three of these ingredients.

play15:21

So I cleanse my skin.

play15:23

I use a - maybe a hyaluronic acid toner.

play15:26

And then I'll pair it with a vitamin C serum

play15:28

and then moisturize and sunscreen.

play15:30

So that's a very basic, very foolproof daytime routine.

play15:34

So the next ingredients that can work really well in the day,

play15:37

you can definitely use them day and night,

play15:39

is AHAs, BHAs, and azelaic acid.

play15:42

If you are fighting things with hyperpigmentation, acne marks,

play15:45

or you just want overall skin brightening,

play15:47

you can use AHAs like glycolic acid, lactic acid, or mandelic acid

play15:52

in the forms of toners and serums.

play15:54

Otherwise if you have active breakouts,

play15:57

you might want to try a BHA toner or serum.

play16:00

You can also try something called gluconolactone,

play16:03

which is known as PHA!

play16:05

Which is a gentler, more milder form of AHA.

play16:09

And then there's azelaic acid, which is my best friend!

play16:12

So if you decide that you want to incorporate these in your routine,

play16:16

it will look a little something like this.

play16:17

After cleansing, you'll start using your vitamin C

play16:21

because of the low pH level.

play16:23

So then after vitamin C,

play16:25

you can use your AHAs or BHAs or azelaic acid.

play16:28

And we would suggest you just choose one

play16:30

because you do not need all of them!

play16:32

And then after all those,

play16:34

you want to use a simple moisturizer and then obviously an SPF.

play16:38

So that's just an example of what you can do in a daytime routine.

play16:42

It really just depends on what your skin is feeling on the day

play16:45

[and] what you want to really target.

play16:46

And then knowing which key active ingredients

play16:49

will subtly help throughout the day.

play16:51

So then moving on to a nighttime routine.

play16:53

Essentially everything stays the same,

play16:55

but one key active ingredient that you can incorporate is the retinol.

play16:59

Because retinol will work at night to really help with your cell regeneration

play17:03

to then be able to reveal fresh and healthy skin by the morning.

play17:07

And then by the morning, you'll then protect it.

play17:08

So it's like this cycle.

play17:10

And retinols will come in serum forms,

play17:13

as well as moisturizer forms.

play17:14

As well as booster forms, which is probably the most potent.

play17:17

But there'll also be retinols that are incorporated into a moisturizer,

play17:21

which is much better if you're just entering into this whole applying retinols.

play17:26

And according to cosmetic dermatologist, Dr. Sam Bunting,

play17:29

who also has a channel on YouTube,

play17:31

she says that retinoids are recommended for nighttime use

play17:34

because they are fragile when it is exposed to the sun.

play17:38

And retinoids by nature are photosensitive.

play17:40

There's kind of two general ways that you can look at

play17:43

applying retinols in your nighttime routine.

play17:46

If you want the maximum effectiveness,

play17:48

you can apply it straight after cleansing.

play17:50

And then apply your moisturizer and you can call it a day.

play17:54

If you are just starting out

play17:55

and you don't know if it's gonna work with your skin,

play17:57

you want to create a buffer on the skin so that it's not SO potent.

play18:01

You can use your hyaluronic acid serum or toner

play18:04

or your niacinamide toner or serum

play18:06

and then apply it with the retinol or even vice versa.

play18:11

And then seal it with a moisturizer.

play18:13

Okay, so that is just a general approach on how to pair

play18:16

and how to layer key active ingredients in your routine.

play18:20

So now we just want to answer a little bit more of the

play18:23

questions that we always see you guys leave.

play18:25

First is, "How do I adjust the dose of my active ingredients when we are irritated?"

play18:31

Those are the times that we should really strip back

play18:34

and not go crazy on using key active ingredients.

play18:37

But there are ingredients that can help your skin rebuild itself back into a healthy state.

play18:43

So these will include hyaluronic acid, skin-friendly oils

play18:46

like jojoba or rosehip, and things that incorporate ceramides.

play18:50

All these will really help your skin build itself back!

play18:53

And then we would say stay away from

play18:55

things like vitamin C [and] AHA/BHA

play18:58

because that is just going to further irritate your skin

play19:01

and break it down and basically cook it even more.

play19:04

Next comment that we want to point out is some people ask,

play19:07

"How many active ingredients should I combine or Incorporate into my routine

play19:12

because I have so many!"

play19:14

So when it comes to this question,

play19:15

it really does just boil down to what you want to fix.

play19:20

So is it hyperpigmentation?

play19:22

Is it acne? Is it dryness?

play19:24

So we would say even though we gave you guys

play19:26

a bunch of different combinations that do work together,

play19:28

do not feel that you have to use them in conjunction at all.

play19:32

The easiest way and the best way is to

play19:34

actually just pick one. Start with that.

play19:36

And then you can rewatch our video at the beginning

play19:38

to then incorporate maybe two.

play19:40

And personally, I would keep it at that, people.

play19:43

Just keep it at that.

play19:44

Next and last comment that we want to address is pilling.

play19:48

So sometimes when we're applying our skincare products,

play19:51

by the end of it we get this

play19:54

weird little granules and clumps of stuff on our skin

play19:59

that kind of looks like eraser shavings.

play20:04

True that!

play20:06

And chances are it's because you didn't leave enough time

play20:09

and really let each product work its way into your skin

play20:12

before applying the next product.

play20:14

So actually you're just creating your own little skincare concoction,

play20:18

and it wasn't able to penetrate.

play20:19

And that's probably why pilling happens.

play20:23

So if this happens, our advice is to just

play20:25

take a little bit of extra time between each of your steps.

play20:28

We're not saying let your toner completely dry out

play20:31

on your face before applying the next one.

play20:33

But just let it sink in for about, you know, 10 seconds to 30 seconds.

play20:38

Because we still want the skin to be damp

play20:40

when you apply the next product, but not wet.

play20:43

But if you let it absorb a little bit more

play20:45

and you have given that extra time and it is still pilling,

play20:48

it could be that the ingredients maybe like the silicones and the dimethicones

play20:52

aren't mixing well with other ingredients of another product's formulation.

play20:57

So you can try just mix in and out.

play20:58

So don't worry! It happens to all of us.

play21:00

I do that all the time.

play21:01

And I'm like, "What the heck happened?"

play21:02

And then you have to start all over again, but it's okay!

play21:06

So that is our video highlighting key active ingredients,

play21:09

what they do, and how you can layer them into a general skincare routine.

play21:14

We just wanted to share with you guys the combinations

play21:16

that we thought would be really safe for you guys to use in your routine

play21:21

based on the studies that are out there

play21:23

from dermatologists [and] from different skincare journals.

play21:26

And the ones that we didn't mention like retinol and vitamin C

play21:29

because of the unstable nature, we would just avoid it.

play21:32

So hope it all makes a little bit more sense now.

play21:35

And once again, it really just comes down to

play21:38

each of your own skin types [and] what products you have.

play21:42

So if you have any other questions,

play21:43

make sure you leave it down below.

play21:45

Make sure you are subscribed.

play21:46

Make sure you turned on the notification bell

play21:48

so that you can learn with us every single week.

play21:51

And we'll see you in the next episode. Bye!

play21:55

It's so hot! My freakin' clammy! Mehhhhhh.

play21:59

*blow blow*

play22:03

*twist twist*

play22:04

And I'm wearing leather!

play22:07

Dyifferen and retin... and retinolda.

play22:12

So niacinamide is known as the MP - MP3. *lol*

play22:16

*DJ FEL* Okay.

play22:18

Oh my god! This tea is so good!

play22:20

*Thank you for watching <3*

Rate This

5.0 / 5 (0 votes)

Ähnliche Tags
Уход за кожейАктивные ингредиентыРетинолНиацинамидВитамин САГА/БГАПара.skincareСпособы примененияПрофессиональные советыСкринкеймПодбор продуктов
Benötigen Sie eine Zusammenfassung auf Englisch?