Jakob Schubert’s critical view on current trends in sport climbing

Summary

Jakob Schubert, a top-level climber, discusses his experience after the Olympic Games and the challenges of balancing competition and passion for climbing. He reflects on the growing popularity of the sport, especially gym climbing, and the responsibility to teach newcomers how to respect nature when climbing outdoors. Jakob also shares insights into the evolution of competition climbing, the shift in styles, and his hopes for the future of the sport. He touches on the complexities of competition formats and the potential for climbing to grow even more, particularly with the rise of outdoor and bouldering disciplines.

Takeaways

• 😀 Jakob is in Graz for the 10-year anniversary of BLOC house, but hasn't been there in a couple of years.
• 😀 Jakob is recovering from a slight injury post-Olympic Games, and he found rest unhelpful for his body.
• 😀 The Olympics provided Jakob a sense of relief after years of intense preparation and training for the event.
• 😀 Jakob sees the Olympic Games as a major opportunity to grow climbing by introducing it to new audiences.
• 😀 As climbing grows, Jakob highlights the challenge of ensuring new gym climbers understand outdoor climbing etiquette and respect for nature.
• 😀 He suggests that athletes, gyms, and other climbing stakeholders all share responsibility for teaching outdoor climbing rules.
• 😀 Jakob notes that competition climbing is challenging to influence due to the subjective nature of the sport, though route setting and competition organization can improve.
• 😀 He believes bouldering competitions should maintain a connection to traditional rock climbing by incorporating styles that focus on body tension, finger strength, and control.
• 😀 Jakob is critical of the high variability in bouldering competition outcomes, with different athletes winning and not always performing consistently, which can make the sport less exciting to follow.
• 😀 He acknowledges the increasing competitiveness in bouldering, where making semifinals is much harder today compared to the past.
• 😀 Looking forward, Jakob predicts further development in climbing, especially with the potential for harder routes like 9c+ and the growing interest in competition climbing, even with challenges like the split between Olympic disciplines and World Cup events.

Q & A

Why is Jakob in Graz?

Jakob is in Graz to attend the ten-year anniversary of BLOC house.

How does Jakob feel after the Olympic Games?

Jakob feels both mentally relieved and physically tired after the Olympic Games. Despite battling a slight injury, he's happy with his performance but found the preparation and the mental toll of the games difficult.

What does Jakob think about the impact of the Olympic Games on climbing?

Jakob believes that the Olympic Games have a significant positive impact on climbing by exposing the sport to a larger audience, especially kids and newcomers who may not have been familiar with climbing before.

What is one of the challenges Jakob sees in the growth of climbing?

Jakob sees the rapid growth of indoor climbing as a challenge, particularly as more people start climbing in gyms but may not know how to climb outside or respect nature when transitioning to outdoor climbing.

Who is responsible for educating new climbers about outdoor climbing?

Jakob believes that everyone has a responsibility to educate new climbers, including athletes with large social media platforms, climbing gyms, and organizations offering courses. It’s about better communication of the rules and ethics of outdoor climbing.

What are Jakob’s thoughts on the influence of athletes on the sport’s development?

Jakob thinks it is difficult for athletes to influence the development of climbing as many decisions are subjective, but he points out that athletes, especially through bodies like the Athletes Commission, can voice concerns about issues like route setting and competition organization.

What does Jakob think about the style of bouldering in competitions today?

Jakob feels that the style of bouldering in competitions has evolved, with many competitions now featuring more random and unpredictable boulders. He believes that climbing competitions should still reflect traditional climbing techniques, such as body tension and finger strength.

Would Jakob support having different bouldering formats in competitions?

Jakob doesn't necessarily believe there should be different formats for bouldering competitions, but he does think that the balance of boulders in competitions needs to include a mix of technical and steep problems, ensuring that the best climbers are consistently tested.

How has the field of competition climbing changed over the years?

Jakob mentions that the field of competition climbing has become more competitive, with a much higher level of strength and skill among athletes today. The number of climbers at the top level has increased, making it harder to reach semifinals and finals.

What does Jakob think about the future of climbing as a sport?

Jakob is optimistic about the future of climbing, believing that the sport will continue to evolve and attract more people, both in competition climbing and recreational climbing. He’s especially excited about the potential for more challenging routes like 9c+ or even 9A+ boulders in the near future.